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Perhaps something like liquid metal weld to fix, would need to be fairly strong as that is the main joining point between the front and back body parts. Although if you are careful while assembling the rest of the parts onto the rear body then the strength would come once the body parts are secured to the chasis.
Can you not open an eBay dispute?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2014 Posts: 393 Points: 1,104 Location: st austell
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Thank u will give it a go hope it holds. Facebook-model maker
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I have been having a think and if you attach the front body to the rear first, using the two screws that secure underneath then it should be considerably easier to 'weld' the part in place, you could even add a bit araldite or something similar to help reinforce the join between the front and back as that part is the covered up with the plastic part that the wipers are screwed to.
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Thank u was even thinking taking too my welder m8 but think it's to small thank u for help. Facebook-model maker
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The diecast metal is probably Zamac which is an alloy mix which can vary greatly, it should solder with ordinary tin lead solder and an acid flux.
Some people have difficulty getting it to work, because not enough heat is used, and not the right type of flux.
Because a relatively large casting is normally involved a really big capacity soldering iron is needed, not just high wattage, but high heat storage as well, in other words, lots of copper.
The items to be soldered must be totally clean. The flux used has to be an acid type such as Bakers fluid, or an acid type with zinc added will do the trick. Most other fluxes are simply not active enough to work, and grease, rosin, and tallow based ones won't work. Carrs say that the Grey Label flux will work with Zamac, and they recommend the 179 degree solder.
Once tinned, the surfaces can be soldered together as usual. Sometimes difficult Zamac will take lower melting point solder as the tinning solder, and then normal solder to finish.
Lead free solder will also work, but the temperature needed is high, and approaching some of the cast melt temperature, so be very careful, do not apply a gas torch in the hope of reaching the temperature. A Lead free solder also bypasses any chance of corrosion from lead in contact with Zinc, but being on the surface solder does not causes Zinc rot etc, that is due to lead in the casting mix.
The one type of break in a casting that will not solder is a crystalline structure break, where the surface is broken crystal in appearance, really this should be filed away and the resulting larger crack filled with solder.
Modern Chinese Zinc alloy seems to solder all right most of the time. Some castings are not Zamak and have more aluminium, and these are more difficult and may need specialist eutectic solders used. These are so called "flux free" and are applied at approx 400 degree, so very difficult to handle, as the casting may melt.
If the casting has been electroplated black or chemically blackened this may stop the solder from taking, it needs filing away first.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2014 Posts: 393 Points: 1,104 Location: st austell
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Thanks tom so will not be taking to my m8 . Facebook-model maker
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hello Ian,
If you aren't keen on the soldering route there's a couple of 'metal bonding/repair' type products here that you can try:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/it...ESIVE-NEW-/260855038509
I've used that to repair a cracked car radiator before and it's good stuff, really bonds and is hard as steel when cured? I think it is cheaper at Halfords than that ebay price though?
Or you can try this:
http://www.kalimex.co.uk/our-products/quiksteel
They use this to repair damaged alloy wheels, leaking metal housings/castings, etc. Dries hard as steel in 15 minutes (fully cured in 60 mins) and can be machined, drilled, sanded and tapped and I've read that the join is stronger than the surrounding metal when fully cured. It's not quite as cheap as the 'Chemical Metal' product above though?
I think of the two the Kalimex 'QuickSteel' is slightly better though they are both good products for bonding metal. Hope that helps?
Kev 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/06/2014 Posts: 393 Points: 1,104 Location: st austell
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Thank u modelmania got a few ideas now. Will post when it's done just hope it holds thank u all guys. Facebook-model maker
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