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Issue 130 - Contains the Mizzenmast lateen sail, and diecast decorations for the spur.
Take the yard V11 of the mizzenmast, - that you prepared in previous issues. This yard will remain without a sail.
Take six parrel deadeyes (supplied with Issue 122), - paint then a sapele colour, then paint the edges red.
Then take the 10 trucks (supplied with Issue 99) and two 120mm-long pieces of 0.25mm thread and assemble the gooseneck (parrel) of yard V11 as shown.
With the help of the gooseneck, attach yard V11 in front of the mizzen mast beneath the lower top. Wrap and tie the two threads of the gooseneck around the yard, setting the parrel forward of the mast. The curved edge of the parrel deadeyes should face outwards.
Prepare the halyards of the yard V11, - with two pieces of 0.5mm thread, one of 0.25mm thread and a 6mm two-hole block 213. With a tie made using the 0.25mm thread of the halyards, join the block 213 to the bitt on the quarterdeck behind the mast. Wrap the end of the thread round the cleat near the bitt. Lead the thread of the two halyards upwards, passing them through the mizzenmast top and above the cap. Fix it with a drop of glue. Now lead the brown thread down, pass it back through the top and tie them in the middle of the yard V11.
Use 0.25mm thread, make the lifts of the yard V11, - which take a similar path to the lifts already fitted on the larger yards of the main- and foremasts. Begin tying one end of the thread to the forward eyebolt under the cap. Pass the thread through the 4mm two-hole block 212 on the tip of the yard V11. Lead the thread towards the mast and pass it through the 4mm one-hole block 209 hanging from the eyebolt used in Step 10. Fix the thread to the cleat set on the bulwark of the quarterdeck near the shrouds.
Repeat on the other side of the yard.
Now fit the two braces of the yard V11, - again using 0.25mm thread. Tie the thread to the mizzenmast stay, which stretches from the mizzenmast lower top to the foot of the mainmast. Pass the thread through the block 209 hanging at the end of yard V11. Now tie a block 209 to the mizzen stay below the point where you have previously fixed the thread. Then, pass the thread of the brace through the block. Knot the thread to an eyebolt you must fix on the planking of the quarterdeck between the two areas of gratings and seal the know with a drop of glue.
In a similar fashion, fit the second brace on the other side of the yard.
Take the yard V14 prepared in a previous issue and the mizzenmast lateen sail SA11 that came with this issue. - Insert the tip of the yard in the loops at the corners of the longer side of the sail. Knot a piece of 0.25mm thread at one end of the yard and start sewing the sail on. The stitches around the yards must match the seams of the cloth sections of the sail.
Fit the yard on the right-hand side of the mizzenmast, just below the yard V11. To do this, use the 0.25mm thread that you fixed on the yard during the assembly session of Issue 119. Pass the thread upwards through the mizzenmast top. Then pass the thread through the block 209 tied to an eyebolt on the cap, then lead it down, passing through the top again. Tie the thread to the eyebolt located on the deck to the right of the foot of the mizzenmast.
Now prepare the braces of the yard V14, - Use a piece of 0.25mm thread. Fix two eyebolts in front of the first gratings of the quarterdeck. Tie the thread to the first eyebolt, pass it through the block 209 hanging at the lower end of the yard and tie it to the second eyebolt.
Again, using 0.25mm thread, fit the two luffs that hold the upper end of the yard V14. Pass the thread through one of the two stropped blocks 209 at the upper end of the yard, then lead the two ends towards the upper quarterdeck. Tie one end of the thread to the eyebolt on the edge of the deck, then wrap the other end around the cleat abaft of the eyebolt.
Repeat the operations described in Steps 29 and 30 on the other side of the model.
Now fit the sheet of the lateen sail SA11, - using 0.25mm thread. - Fix two eyebolts in the middle of the upper quarterdeck and tie one end of the thread to one of them. Pass the thread through a block 209 to be fitted to the loop on the corner of the sail and fix the other end to the second eyebolt.
Now make the lift of the yard V14, - that is, the rope that holds it at the top and joins it to the mizzen mast. Use 0.25mm thread. Tie the thread to the top end of the yard. Then tie another three pieces of thread between the yard and the thread of the lift following the measurements given in the Step 35 photo. Pass the thread through the block 209 hanging from the eyebolt fixed to the back of the second mizzenmast top. Bring the thread down and pass it through the first mizzenmast top. Fix the thread on the eyebolt on the bridge to the left of the foot of the mizzenmast and secure the knot with a drop of glue.
Decorations - Take the decorations PD61, PD62, PD63 and PD35 that came with this issue, remove any burrs, then coat them with metal primer and paint them gold. Then retouch them with white, black and red paint as shown in the Step 39 photo.
Glue decorations PD61, PD62, PD63 and PD35 onto the right-hand side of the bow spur, setting them in the positions shown in the Step 40 photo.
Ship's boat - Take the ship's boat and its cradle that you assembled and painted in previous assembly sessions. Glue the boat onto the cradle. Then use 0.25mm thread to make the cross bindings to lash the ship's boat to the cradle, as shown in the Step 43 photo.
The ships boat/cradle assembly should be fitted onto the deck of the ship on top of the indicated two grated hatches. After finding the exact location, glue the cradle across the gratings as shown, taking care to centre its position.
This completes this session.
Future issues:
Issue 131 - Contains the Mizzenmast topsail, Mizzenmast topgallant sail, Anchor, wooden strip, wood rings, brass anchor ring and belay pins.
Issue 132 - Contains components for the rudder, a diecast figurine and decorations.
Issue 133 - Contains gun port hatches, sapele strips, brass mesh, diecast round frames, diecast stern decorations, figurine and eyebolts.
Issue 134 - Contains flags, access doors, sapele strip and brass door hinges.
Final Issue 135 - Contains flags, cleats and eyebolts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Issue 131 - Contains the Mizzenmast topsail, Mizzenmast topgallant sail, Anchor, wooden strip, wood rings, brass anchor ring and belay pins.
Take the mizzenmast topsail SA12 that came with this issue and the yard V12 prepared in a previous issue. - Assemble the sail and yard as described in Steps 25 to 27 of Issue 124, then fit the yard in front of the mizzenmast, just below the upper top. To fix the yard to the mast, make the same tie with 0.25mm thread that you used for the upper yards of the mainmast.
Prepare the two halyards of the yard V12, - using brown 0.5mm thread and a 4mm two-hole block 212. Then, make two collars with brown 0.5mm thread, 0.25mm thread and a 4mm one-hole block 209. Follow the measurements shown in the inset photo.
Tie a 100mm thread to the eyebolt on the upper quarterdeck. Then, connect block 209 of the collar and the block 212 of a halyard with 0.25mm thread. Tie off the thread on the cleat near the eyebolt. Bring the brown thread of the halyard up, pass it through the upper mizzenmast top and fix it with a drop of glue on the cap. Repass the thread through the top and then tie it to the middle of the yard V12.
The second halyard should be fitted on the other side of the model in the same way as the first.
Use 0.15mm thread to make the lifts of the mizzenmast topsail yard V12. - The path of the thread is the same as that of the lifts you fitted on the other yards.
Tie the thread to the eyebolt fixed forward below the upper top, pass it through block 212 on the tip of the yard V12 and pass it through the block 209 hanging from the eyebolt. Tie off thread round the belay pin shown in the Step 10 photo.
Repeat on the other side of the yard.
Use 0.15mm thread, fit the two sheets of the mizzenmast topsail SA12. - Tie the thread to the loop of one of the bottom corners of the sail SA12 and pass it through the block 212 at the end of the yard V11. Pass the thread through a block 209 that must be fixed to the forwardmost topgallant shroud. Fix the thread on a belay pin that you must set on the quarterdeck bulwark as shown in Step 14.
Then, fit the second sheet on the opposite side of the sail.
Now, fit the sheets of the mizzenmast topsail SA12, which should be made with the 0.15mm thread. - Tie one end of the thread to the loop of one of the two lower corners of the sail SA12. Pass the thread through the one-hole block 209 attached to the yard V12 and then through a block 209 that must be fixed to the forwardmost shroud, just below the yard itself. Tie off the thread around the first belay pin on the upper quarterdeck bulwark. Now make the other sheet of the other side of the SA12 sail.
Prepare of the braces of the mizzenmast top yard using 0.15mm thread. - Fix the thread to the mizzen-top stay, which runs from the upper mizzen top to the main lower top. Pass the thread through the block 209 hanging at the end of yard V12.
Now tie a block 209 to the mizzenmast top stay, below the point at which you have previously fixed the thread. Then pass the thread of the brace through the block. Tie the thread to a belay pin that you need to fix on the quarterdeck bulwark in the position shown in the Step 23 photo.
Now attach the second brace on the other side of the yard.
Take the mizzenmast topgallant sail SA13 that came with this issue and the yard V13 prepared in a past work session. - Assemble the sail and yard by the method that you used before.
With a tie of 0.25mm thread, fit the yard in front of the mizzenmast, placing it just below the crosstree.
Now fit all the rigging of yard V13 and mizzen top-gallant sail SA13, - starting with two halyards.
Prepare the halyards with 0.5mm brown thread and a 4mm two-hole block 212. Make two collars with 0.5mm brown thread, a 0.25mm thread and a 4mm one-hole block 209. Follow the measurements shown in the Step 27 photo.
Knot a 100mm brown thread to the eyebolt behind the one used in Step 5. Connect the block 209 of the collar and the block 212 of a halyard with 0.25mm thread. Fix the thread to the cleat near the eyebolt. Bring up the brown thread of the halyard, fixing it with a drop of glue on the cap. Then take the thread back down and finally tie it to the yard V13.
Repeat to fit the second halyard on the other side of the model.
Using 0.15mm thread, you can now prepare the lifts of the yard V13. - These ropes are the same as the lifts of the yard V12 fitted previously. Tie the thread to the upper of the two eyebolts fixed above the crosstree, pass it through the block 209 at the end of the yard V13 and pass it through the block 209 hanging from the same eyebolt. Tie the thread to the third belay pin on the bulwark of the upper quarterdeck.
Now fix the second lift on the other side of the yard.
Prepare the sheets of the mizzenmast topgallant sail SA13 with two pieces of 0.15mm thread. - Tie the thread to the loop of a lower corner of the sail SA13 and pass it through the block 212 on the end of the yard V12. Fix a block 209 to the forward shroud, as shown in the photo. Then, pass the thread through the block. Tie off the thread around the second belay pin on the bulwark of the upper quarterdeck.
Now fix the second sheet on the bottom corner of the sail and repeat the operation.
Now fit the sheet of the sail SA13, which should be made with 0.15mm thread. - Knot one end of the thread to the loop of one of the two lower corners of the mizzenmast topgallant sail SA13. Pass the thread through the block 209 fixed to the yard V13. Then, tie a block 209 to the forward shroud and pass the thread though, then tie off the thread around the free belay pin on the bulwark of the upper quarterdeck.
Now fit the second sheet of sail SA13.
Complete the rigging of yard V13 and sail SA13 by making the braces with two pieces of 0.15mm thread. - Tie the thread to the stay that goes from the end of the flagpole of the mizzenmast to the second main top. Pass the thread through the block 209 that hangs at the end of the yard V13. Tie a block 209 on the stay, below the point at which you fixed the thread previously, then pass the thread of the brace through the block.
Tie off the thread on a belay pin you need to set on the quarterdeck bulwark, in the position shown in the Step 48 photo.
Similarly, fit the second brace on the other side of the yard V13.
Anchor - Take the anchor provided with the issue, remove any burrs then coat it with metal primer and paint it metallic black. The folow the same procedure as before to make and fit the anchor stock, along with its bindings and anchor ring.
This completes this lengthy session. Carefully store the remaining parts.
Future issues:
Issue 132 - Contains components for the rudder, a diecast figurine and decorations.
Issue 133 - Contains gun port hatches, sapele strips, brass mesh, diecast round frames, diecast stern decorations, figurine and eyebolts.
Issue 134 - Contains flags, access doors, sapele strip and brass door hinges.
Final Issue 135 - Contains flags, cleats and eyebolts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Issue 132 - Contains wooden components for the rudder, a diecast figurine and decorations.
Rudder collars - Cut the rudder pieces 220 and 221 from the die that came with this issue. Then, smooth the pieces to remove any burrs.
Paint the two pieces 220 and 221 a sapele colour. These will form the the collars tiller of the rudder and the entry hole of the tiller.
Make an 8mm opening on piece 221 with a file. Smooth one face of the piece to give it a convex shape. The curve must allow the piece to fit against the transom.
Glue the two pieces 220 around the head of the rudder, following the measurement given in the Step 4 photo. Before gluing, adjust the length of the two pieces to fit the hull of your model.
Fix piece 221 to the transom placing it above the head of the rudder. The convex face of the piece must fit against the curved outline of the hull of the model.
Rudder Rope - Pass a length of 0.25mm thread through the rings fixed on the stern of the ship and on the head of the rudder. Begin by tying one end of the 0.25mm thread to the outer ring on the left-hand side of the stern. Then, pass the thread through the successive rings and continue by passing the thread through all the rings fixed on the head of the rudder. Finally, pass the thread through the rings on the right-hand side of the stern and tie it to the outermost ring. The thread should not be taut, but left quite slack.
Decorations - Take one of the two decorations PD25 that came with this issue, remove any burrs then coat them with metal primer and paint them gold. Then retouch them with white and black, as shown in the Step 11 photo.
Take the brass fret holding the decorations of the left-hand side that came with Issue 117 and detach the last remaining element Z4. Fix piece Z4 in the middle of one of the PD25 decorations.
The decoration PD25 that you have just prepared is to be fitted in the space without decorations on the left-hand side of the model at the quarterdeck. After identifying the exact position, glue decoration PD25 in its frame.
Take the brass fret with the decorations for the right-hand side that came with Issue 118 and remove the remaining piece Z4. Glue piece Z4 in the middle of the second decoration PD25. Then fix the decoration in the space without decorations on the right-hand side of the model at the quarterdeck.
Figurines - Use a fine file to remove any burrs from figurine 211 that came with this issue. Then apply a coat of metal primer and paint the figurine as shown in the Step 19 photo.
Take the figurine 210 that came with Issue 125. Remove any burrs. Then apply a coat of metal primer and paint the figurine as shown in the Step 21/22 photos.
This completes this session, carefully store the figurines for placement in Issue 135.
Future issues:
Issue 133 - Contains gun port hatches, sapele strips, brass mesh, diecast round frames, diecast stern decorations, figurine and eyebolts
Issue 134 - Contains flags, access doors, sapele strip and brass door hinges.
Final Issue 135 - Contains flags, cleats and eyebolts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Issue 133 - Contains gun port hatches, sapele strips, brass mesh, diecast round frames, stern decorations, figurine and eyebolts.
Figurine - Use a fine file to remove any burrs from the four pieces of the figurine that you received with this issue. Glue the torso onto the lower half and the arms in place., this figure will be identified by the reference 222.
Coat the figurine with metal primer then paint it painting guide in Step 4. Carefully store the figurine for placement in Issue 135.
Decorations - Take the two stern decorations PD20 and the four round frames PD69 that came with this issue, remove any burrs then coat them with metal primer and paint them gold.
Following the Step 7 photo, identify the part of the transom above the two closed gun port hatches in the left-hand area of the hull of the model. Glue a decoration PD20 in the middle of the part of the stern, then, fix two frames PD69 either side of piece PD20 at a distance of 4mm.
Cut four round pieces with a diameter of about 7mm from the brass mesh that you received with this issue. Glue two pieces of the mesh within the frames PD69 that you fixed on the stern of your model. Then repeat on the right-hand side of the stern area of the model.
Gun port hatches - Cut out a gun port hatch from the die that came with this issue. Smooth the edges of the piece with fine-grained sandpaper. Paint the hatches to match the red used on previous gun port hatches, paint the edges and one side of the two faces.
From one of the sapele strips that came with this issue, cut two 13mm-long pieces. Glue the two pieces of strip on the unpainted face of the hatch. The strips should be flush with the top edge of the hatch and protrude 1mm from the side edges and 2mm from the lower one. Trim the lower strip so that it protrudes only 1mm from the edge of the hatch. Use a 0.5mm drill bit, to drill a shallow hole in the face of the hatch covered with the sapele strips. The hole should be 2mm from the bottom edge and centred.
Trim the stem of one of the eyebolts that came with this issue, then coat the eyebolt with burnishing fluid. Then, glue the piece in the hole of the hatch, positioning the ring as shown in Step 17 of the instructions.
Prepare the other 29 gun port hatches in the same way.
Take two of the hatches, and paint the outer faces with the black paint.
Retrieve the brass fret holding the hinges of the hatches that came with Issues 109 and 113. Detach 60 hinges and coat them with black burnishing fluid.
Attach two hinges on each gun port hatch. The hinges must be flush with the top edge of the hatches, and 1mm from the side edges.
With a simple knot, tie a piece of 0.15mm thread about 20mm long to the ring of the eyebolt on each hatch.
This completes this session, carefully store the remaining parts and the prepared hatches for placement on the model in Issue 134.
Future issues:
Issue 134 - Contains flags, access doors, sapele strip and brass door hinges.
Final Issue 135 - Contains flags, cleats and eyebolts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Issue 134 - Contains flags, entry doors, sapele strip and brass door hinges.
Entry Port Doors - Cut one of the two entry doors from the die that came with this issue, then smooth the cut edgeS with fine-grained sandpaper.
Cut four 25mm-long pieces from the sapele strip that you received with this issue. Glue a piece of strip on the door, placing it flush with the central line. Glue a second piece of sapele strip beside the first. In a similar manner, fix two strips on the other half of the door. Then turn the door over and trim the sapele strips, following the outline of the door. Now sand the face of the door covered with the strips, then apply a coat of protective varnish.
Door frames - Take the two door frames (PD64) assembled and painted in Issues 120 and 121. Glue the door on the back of a frame PD64. Detach four hinges B11 and two decorations B12 from one of the dies. After cutting the hinges to the size indicated, glue the six pieces on the door.
Prepare the second Entry Port door in a similar way.
Locate the Entry hole in the hatchway on the left-hand side of the model. Then, fix one of the two doors and the frame over it. Similarly, fix the other door on the right-hand side of the model.
Gun port hatches - Fix 15 hatches to the gun ports on both sides of the model, in the positions shown in the Step 9 photo.
Identify the forward gun port of the lower deck in photo A1. Make a 1mm hole above the gun port, the hole should becentred and 1.5mm away from it.
Now take Take the 30 hatches that you assembled in Issue 133. Glue a hatch above the gun port, setting it in the open position. Insert the 0.15mm thread of the hatch in the hole made in Step 10, then fix it with a drop of glue.
In a similar fashion, mounts the other four hatches of the gun ports in photo A2. Take care that the hatches in the same row are aligned with one another.
Repeat the process and mount the four gun port hatches of photo B1 on the hull. Again, take care with the alignment.
To fit the hatch of the gun port under the access doorway in photo B2, you need to cut a small piece off the second rung of the ladder.
Fit the six hatches of the gun ports in photo C. Fit one of the black-painted hatches on the topmost gun port. Fit the remaining hatches on the right-hand side of your model.
Flags - Take the paper with the stickers of the flags that came with this issue and detach the Union Jack. Folowing the measuremet in Step 18 take alength of 0.15mm thread, fix it to the middle of the flag. Fold the two faces of the flag onto one another, so that they stick together and hold the thread in place along the central line.
Folowing the measurement in Step 20, repeat the process with the Royal Standard flag using 0.15mm thread.
Fitting the bell binnacle - Take the bell binnacle that you assembled in Issue 51, fix it with a drop of glue on the deck, setting it in front of the grating at the forward end of the ship’s boat.
This completes this session, carefully store the flags for placement in the next Stage.
Final Issue 135 - Contains flags, cleats and eyebolts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Issue 135 - Contains flags, cleats and eyebolts.
Hawse hole rings - Take the wooden fret with four rings that came with Issue 131. Remove all four rings from the fret, smooth any burrs, then and bevel one side of the outer edge using a fine file.Then paint them a sapele colour.
The four rings reproduce the edges of the hawse-holes, and are to be fitted (two on each side of the ship) in the forward bow area of the model, just below the spur. After identifying the exact location, glue two rings per side on the bow of your model, following the measurements given at Step 3. The bevelled edge of the rings must face outwards.
Anchor placement - Take two of the anchors assembled in previous sessions. Fix a piece of 0.75mm dark brown thread on each anchor ring by making a binding with light brown 0.25mm thread.
Paint the two cleats 77 attached that came with this issue a wood colour. Wrap a piece of 0.5mm wire around two 6mm two-hole blocks 213 to make a hook at the ends.
Identify the area on the ship where you need to install the two anchors in the forward part of the left-hand side of your model.
Fix the two anchors on the foremast wales of the ship as shown in the Step 7 photo. Start by tying the crown of the anchor to the deadeyes of the shrouds with 0.25mm thread. Attach a block 213 to the ring of the forward anchor. Then, with 0.25mm thread, connect the block to the sheave-hole of the cap crane.
Fix a cleat 77 on the crane and wrap the thread. With a drop of glue, fix the ends of the 0.75mm dark brown threads in the hawse rings fitted earlier.
Mount another two anchors on the right-hand side of the model, following the process used for the first two.
Figurine placement - These are only suggestions, you can place the figurines wherever you prefer on your model.
Fix the lookout figurine in the foremast top. Place the officer on the deck of the forecastle. Place one of the sailors near a cannon on the deck. Place the other sailor close to one of the cannons on the quarterdeck. The figure of the Commander can be fixed on the upper deck of the ship. Finally, glue the foretop-man onto the mainmast shrouds.
Completion of the Flags - Prepare the two flags FL3 with the letters ‘CR’ (the monogram of King Charles I), as you did with the flags in Issue 134. Use two pieces of 0.15mm thread, following the measurements shown in the Step 19 photo.
Similarly, prepare the St George ensign, again using 0.15mm thread and following the measurement in the Step 20 photo, the retrieve the two flags assembled in Issue 134.
All that remains is to attach the five flags onto their respective poles:
1. Union Jack FL1 - Fix an eyebolt on top of the flagpole of the bowsprit topmast. Pass one of the threads of the flag FL1 through the eyebolt and lead both threads down. Tie the two threads to the eyebolts on the cap in the bowsprit top.
2. King Charles Monogram FL3 - Pass a thread of flag FL3 through the eyebolt on top of the foremast flagpole. Check that the flag is arranged as shown in the Step 24 photo. Now fix two eyebolts at the foot of the foremast and tie to them the threads of flag FL3.
3. Royal Standard FL2 - Pass one of the threads of the flag FL2 through the eyebolt on top of the mainmast flagpole. Make sure that the flag is arranged as shown in the Step 26 photo, then fix two eyebolts to the foot of the mast and tie the threads of flag FL3 onto them.
4. King Charles Monongram FL3 - Take the other flag FL3 flag and pass one of the threads through the eyebolt on top of the mizzenmast flagpole. Check that the flag is arranged as shown in the Step 28 photo. Fix two eyebolts at the foot of the mizzenmast, then tie the threads of flag FL3 onto them.
5. St George Ensign FL4 - Now fix an eyebolt on the top of the flagpole at the stern end of the model. Pass one thread of flag FL4 through the eyebolt, arranging it as shown in the Step 30 photo. Fix an eyebolt onto the deck and also one at the foot of the flagpole. Use the two eyebolts for tying off the threads of flag FL4.
This completes the Sovereign of the Seas collection!
A display stand for your model can be found in the online shop
http://www.model-space.c...and-sovereign-seas.html
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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