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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/08/2010 Posts: 90 Points: 279 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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Hey guys I have read alot of the posts about the anchor and you guys are really finicky about the anchor detail - not that that is a bad thing  My query is this, if we are to use the cotton to act as the metal bindings on the anchor, how many turns should we make,the build instruction says when you have enough turns, how many is enough? I am thinking of trying a different approach as you guys are but haven't made up my mind yet. I like the idea of tape but I am not completely comfortable with this approach because the tape sometimes has a tendency to lose its stickiness and come loose, that would be terrible in time. I might use cat5 cable housing if it isn't too big in circumference. Thanks Current build : The Victory
Pending builds : none - yet
Built loads of bikes trucks planes and boats - all plastic kits.
on wish list - a 1:24 spitfire, in wood, plastic, just as long as I can build it :)
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/03/2010 Posts: 602 Points: 1,679 Location: Lincs
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For me it's a "Look" thing. I cut the supplied thread into 4 equal parts and wound each length around the anchor, but it didn't "Look" right so I added some more that I had from a previous build. A lot of what people do here is a personal thing where others are more concerned with acuracy - each method works for each individual. Not sure about your cat5 cable housing but if you feel that it "Looks" right then it's right. You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.
Built:
Golden Star, English Brig. RMS Titanic. (Academy 1/400 Centenary Anniversary Edition) Revell-Monogram 1/48 B-29 Superfortress 1:8 Baron von Richthofen's Fokker Tri-plane. HMS Victory. Nelsons Flag Ship. Sultan Arab Dhow. Artesania Latina Carmen II. The Battleship Yamato. Model Airways Wright Flyer 1:16 Scale. Trumpeter Bismarck 1/200. HMS Sovereign of the Seas. The Black Pearl.
Building:HMS Surprisel. Hatchette U96. Soleil Royal.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/08/2010 Posts: 90 Points: 279 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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Thanks Riff-Raff I gathered the personal choice thing with the build - I haven't actually decided what I am going to do yet, want to think about it before I stuff it up. Was the binding on the real thing a solid ring or was it bounds of cable? Do you know? Current build : The Victory
Pending builds : none - yet
Built loads of bikes trucks planes and boats - all plastic kits.
on wish list - a 1:24 spitfire, in wood, plastic, just as long as I can build it :)
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/03/2010 Posts: 146 Points: 473 Location: Plymouth
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Depending upon the effect you want, then either try about 4/5 mm width of various bindings or try copper banding. Having taken about 700 pics Jase is probably your man. ArtfulBodger Previous Build: HMS. Bounty
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Rank: Vice-Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 507 Points: 1,571
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Wilberforce wrote:Thanks Riff-Raff
I gathered the personal choice thing with the build - I haven't actually decided what I am going to do yet, want to think about it before I stuff it up. Was the binding on the real thing a solid ring or was it bounds of cable? Do you know? They were solid steel bands, and they were knocked down the taper of the stock until they were tight to hold the two halves together
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/08/2010 Posts: 90 Points: 279 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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OK my anchor build is done, well the 1st 1 at any rate. I have in by pipe box black waxed hemp, it is waxed so can be flattened. Bound the brass ring with the hemp to give it a ropey appearance. Took super glue and a cotton ear bud and stuck some of he cotton wool to the hemp to give it worn look. Looks good but the puddening looks a bit big but it looks good anyway. I then bound the anchor ribs with the hemp, again pressing it flat and just touching up with some black paint. looks pretty damn good. Will try post a photo Current build : The Victory
Pending builds : none - yet
Built loads of bikes trucks planes and boats - all plastic kits.
on wish list - a 1:24 spitfire, in wood, plastic, just as long as I can build it :)
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 Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/07/2010 Posts: 25 Points: 68 Location: Dunstable, UK
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I originally used hread to simulate the bindings for the anchor (as described in the magazine). When I saw the real anchor and realised it was all black I painted my anchor but the bindings did not good and you could see they were thread. I cut them off and made some hoops from brass stips from my local model shop. I think the end result was worth the time and effort and I will use this methods for the remaining anchors.
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Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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Hi All The bands round the anchor were forged metal bands, which were heated and then allowed to contract round the anchor, in the same way as barrel hoops are fitted. My solution was to use 160gm/m2 card and simply cut thin strips which I super-glued on. I then painted the lot with black paint.  Mike T
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/03/2010 Posts: 188 Points: 614 Location: Llandudno
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Hi guys.
I used 4 pieces of thin card & it worked a treat.
I cut them from the card that my wet & dry was in.
Just a nice thickness.
Bob
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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how to get a nice tight binding i tried heat shrink it worked out ok 1/8" strips
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 Rank: Newbie  Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 13/09/2010 Posts: 3 Points: 9 Location: Harden
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Likewise, I used black heatshrink and then black gloss paint to simulate metal. You get the thickness from the heatshirink and can cut to desired width. Care when applying heat not to scorch wood
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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tking wrote:Likewise, I used black heatshrink and then black gloss paint to simulate metal. You get the thickness from the heatshirink and can cut to desired width. Care when applying heat not to scorch wood quick splash of boiling water is better than a flame
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 Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/04/2010 Posts: 1,266 Points: 3,841 Location: The Quantock Hills,Somerset
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Where can you get the heatshrink from? Rob Nolli Illigitimi Carborundum!!!Current Builds: HMS Victory, SV Thermopylae
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 498 Points: 1,522 Location: South Wales
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I think Maplin sell heat shrink, not that expensive too. Cheers for the info mate, well appreciated Best Wishes David Ship Builds on the go
Yamato - DeAgostini Subscription - Highly Recommend This Model
AKAGI - DeAgostini Subscription - Highly Recommend This Model
RMS Titanic Lifeboat (Kind Gift from DeAgostini Crew)
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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heatshrink 8mm inside dia from cornwall model shop £1.21p for 250mm is the size to fit the stock up at the anchor shaft anny smaller may have trouble fitting, shrinks down to 3mm dia with boiling water 
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