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 Rank: Elite        Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Pack 3 contains Issues 7 - 10
Issue 7
Your parts:
Left ear base
Left ear backing
Right forearm
M2 x 4.5mm countersunk screws (x2)
M2 x 6mm countersunk screws (x7)
Assembling the left ear
Line up the left ear backing with the inside of the left ear base. The countersunk hole in the centre of the backing should be facing you.
Fit M2 x 4.5mm countersunk screw into the hole and tighten with the screwdriver to secure the parts.
Attaching Robi’s ears
Holding Robi’s head from so that he is facing left, line up the left ear assembly with the triangular point of Robi’s ear facing directly behind him. Fit the parts together so that the three holes line up with those on the head frame.
Hold the parts in place and screw three of the M2 x 6mm screws into the holes to attach the ear into the head frame.
Turn Robi’s head around, and line up the right ear assembly (from stage 4) to the right head frame in the same way you did with the left.
Fit another three M2 x 6mm screws into the corresponding holes to attach Robi’s right ear.
Take the neck stand you assembled in stage 6 and locate the small notch in the servo shaft. This should be facing the back of the stand. Also note that the shaft has a series of splined ribs running up it.
With Robi’s head facing the same way as the neck stand, fit it carefully into place so that the servo shaft slots into the small hole in the centre of the head frame. This has internal ribs that need to line up with the splines, so ensure the head is straight.
The head test
Robi’s head movement is now ready to be tested. As you did when you tested the servo in the previous stage, first turn on the power from the battery pack. Then simply press the TEST/SET switch on the test board and watch as Robi moves his head from side to side. Robi’s head may shake a little during this initial test, but don’t worry; this is because it is only temporarily attached at this stage.
Store the unused forearm safely in a bag labeled with the stage number until it is needed.
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Issue 8
Your parts:
Servo motor
Left ear trim panel
M2 x 4.5mm countersunk screws
Saved parts:
You will be using parts from the previous stages, so be sure to have these to hand before beginning 70mm servo cable (Issue 6) Head assembly (Issue 7) Right ear trim panel (Stage 1) Protective pads (Issue 3)
Fitting the ear trim panels
Take the head assembly from Issue 7 and the ear trim provided with this Issue.
Align the trim with the recess and secure it with one M2 x 4.5mm screw. Repeat to fit the right ear trim panel.
Sealing the servo cable
As you did in Issue 3, inspect the connectors at the ends of the servo cable. You need to apply a protective pad to the side with PUSH marked on it.
The pad should be set centrally, and not extend beyond the connector. Press the pad firmly into place to seal the connector. Repeat at the other end of the cable.
Connecting the servo case
Use a screwdriver to undo the four screws securing the cover of the servo, and take each one out.
Carefully lift the cover away from the other side of the servo.
Take either end of the connector cable and carefully fit it in one of the two sockets, it does not matter which one.
Carefully feed the free end of the cable up through the circular hole in the servo cover. Make sure that the cover is the right way up. Fit the cover onto the servo casing, then turn the servo over and insert the four screws you removed. Tighten them carefully to secure the cover.
Connecting the servo
Take the neck stand and make sure the power is OFF. Carefully unplug the black servo cable from the socket on the left of the test board.
Take the right forearm servo with its cable attached and Plug the end of the right forearm servo cable into the socket you just removed the cable. Press the TEST/SET switch briefly to run the servo test. The shaft at the top of the servo casing should rotate 45 degrees to the left, stop, then mover back across to 45 degrees to the right. After you have run the test, turn off the power switch on the battery pack.
Familiarise yourself with the lights and switches on the test board. These are used to set the ID number. Each time you press the UP switch, the ID number increases by one, and the result is displayed by the two banks of LED lights. The top row reads in tens and the bottom in units. For example, to set the ID to 18, press UP 17 times. This will light up the 10 LED and the 8 LED. (If you overshoot, press the DOWN switch to take it down one step at a time.) When the ID number is correct, you set it by pressing and holding the TEST/SET switch.
Setting the ID Number
To set the ID number of the right forearm servo to 18, press the UP button 17 times. Confirm the setting by checking that the 10 and 8 LEDs are lit, using the UP and DOWN buttons to correct the number if necessary.
Confirm the setting by pressing the TEST/SET button. The 10 and 8 lights should flash, then go out.
Checking the ID Number
Leaving the servo connected, switch the power OFF, then back ON. Only the 1 LED should light up.
To check the ID number, press TEST/SET. Now the 10 and 8 should light up.
Once all is well, switch the power pack OFF, then carefully unplug the servo from the test board. It will retain its setting, ready to fit to Robi’s arm. You can reconnect the servo lead that you removed in Step 11, but this is not essential.
Robi’s head casing is complete, and your first arm servo is ready for installation store any unused parts in a bag labeled with the stage number.
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Issue 9
Your parts:
Right forearm frame
Servo front panel
Elbow joint
Right thumb
Right finger mount
M2 x 5mm pan head screws (x2)
M2 x 10mm pan head screws (x3)
M2 x 8mm countersunk screws (x3)
M2 x 6mm countersunk screws (x4)
Saved parts
Right forearm (Stage 7)
Servo motor (Stage 8)
The finger mount
Align the right forearm frame and finger mount. the mount can be fitted any way up.
Press the tongue of the finger mount into the long slot in the end of the forearm frame.
Turn the forearm frame over to check that the holes in the finger mount are in line with the two screw holes in the forearm frame.
Fit two M2 x 10mm pan headed screws through the holes and carefully tighten them to secure the finger mount.
The thumb
Align the thumb with the forearm frame, noting the position of the square tab on the thumb and matching hole in the frame.
Press the parts together so that the tab locks into the hole and the thumb fits flush against the frame.
Turn the forearm frame over and check that the hole in the thumb is in line with the remaining screw hole in the forearm frame.
Fit an M2 x 5mm pan head screw through the hole and carefully tighten to secure the finger mount.
The servo
Take the servo motor that you assembled in issue 8, and remove all four long screws that secure the rear cover. keep the screws safe as you will re-use them.
Carefully remove the servo cover. you will not be refitting this part, as the forearm frame fits in its place.
Align the servo motor with the right forearm frame. You will need to feed the servo cable through the large circular hole in the forearm frame and align the screw holes in the servo with the four circled holes.
Carefully feed the servo cable through the hole in the forearm frame.
Press the servo into place, making sure it fits flush and that you do not trap the lead.
Using the four screws you removed in step 9, secure the servo to the forearm frame
Elbow joint
If you examine the servo front panel you will see that it has a recess that matches the shaft projecting from the servo. Both have a flat section, making them slightly ‘D’ shaped.
Align the flat on the recess in the servo front panel with the flat on the servo shaft.
Press the from panel onto the shaft. The parts are quite a tight fit, but if the front panel won’t clip into place, check that it is aligned correctly.
Fit the elbow over the servo. Carefully feed the servo cable through the large hole in the elbow joint, and then fit the hole over the circular collar rejecting from the right forearm frame.
Ensure that the servo front panel fits into the recess in the elbow joint.
Use two M2 x 8mm countersunk screws to fix the from the panel to the elbow joint.
The right forearm
Take the right forearm and fit it over the assembly, so that the screw holes match up.
Fit two M2 x 6mm countersunk screws, into the holes, then turn the forearm over and fit another screw into the remaining hoe under the forearm frame to complete the assembly.
This Issue is now complete, and Robi’s right forearm is beginning to take shape store any unused parts in a bag labeled with the stage number.
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Issue 10
Your Parts
1 Right upper arm frame
2 Right elbow back panel
3 M2 x 6mm flat-head screws (x 6)
4 Servo cable (70mm long)
Take the right forearm assembly (Issue 9) in your hands and gently pull the protruding servo cable along so that it rests in the recess at the elbow.
Holding the servo cable in place within the recess, press the right elbow back panel into position, so that its curved edge matches that of the forearm.
Press the parts together firmly between your fingers to make sure they are securely joined.
With two of the M2 x 6mm flat-head screws, fasten the parts together with the screwdriver supplied with Issue 2.
Line up the forearm assembly to the right upper arm frame, noting the position of the rectangular hole.
Carefully pass the tip of the servo cable through the rectangular hole.
With the parts held at a 45° angle to one another, line up the three circled screw holes with those of the forearm beneath.
Once you have the screw holes lined up, hold the parts together in one hand, making sure that they do not slip out of position.
Still holding the parts in one hand, tighten three more of the M2 x 6mm flat-head screws into the holes lined up in the previous step.
PREPARING THE SERVO CABLE
As you have done in previous issues, identify the side of the servo cable’s connector marked ‘PUSH’. Then, separate a protective pad from the sheet (Issue 3) and place this on top of the connector, making sure that the pad does not extend beyond the connector’s tip. Repeat for the connector at the other end of the servo cable so that both are covered
Robi’s right arm is nearly complete, ready to be fitted with another servo to operate his shoulder movement, and your next servo cable is protected and ready for use in the coming Issues store any unused parts in a bag labeled with the stage number .
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Pack 4 containes Issues 11 – 14
Issue 11
Your Parts:
1x Servo Motor
Saved parts:
Right arm assembly and servo cable (Issue 10)
Neck stand (Issue 8)
The Servo and cable
Take out the four screws holding the servo’s removable cover in place, and keep these safely to one side. Gently lift the cover away, taking care not to force it or damage the circuit board underneath.
Hold the open servo with the circuit board facing upwards. Fetch the servo cable fitted with protective pads in the previous stage, and press one of its connectors into the socket circled in red, as you have done before. It does not matter which end of the servo cable you use.
Pass the free end of the servo cable through the circular hole in the removable cover, as shown.
Press the cover back into place on the servo’s main housing. Use two of the screws you removed to fasten the cover. Only tighten these lightly, as you will be removing the cover again.
Testing the servo
Take the neck stand and make sure the power pack is turned OFF. Carefully unplug the black servo cable from the socket on the left of the test board and attach the servo cable that’s connected to the servo that you just assembled.
With the servo connected, switch the power to ON. After the LEDs blink twice, only the 1 LED should light up.
To test the servo, press the TEST/SET switch: the servo’s shaft should rotate 45 degrees to the left, stop, then move back across to 45 degrees to the right. The next step is to set the servo’s ID number, so keep the power on. If the test does not run, refer to the HELP! below.
Using the test board
Re-familiarise yourself with the lights and switches on the test board, which were explained in the Assembly Guide of Issue 8. These are used to set the ID number of the servos. Each time you press the UP switch, the ID number increases by one, and the result is displayed by the two banks of LED lights. The top row reads in tens and the bottom in units.
For example, to set the ID to 17, as you will do in this stage, you press UP 16 times. This will light up the 10 LED and the 7 LED. (If you overshoot, press the DOWN switch to take it down one step at a time.) When the ID number is correct, you set it by pressing and holding the TEST/SET switch.
Setting the number
To set the ID number of the right upper arm servo to 17, press the UP button 16 times. Confirm the setting by checking that the 10 and 7 LEDs are lit, using the UP and DOWN buttons to correct the number if necessary. Confirm the setting by pressing the TEST/SET button. The 10 and 7 lights should flash, then go out.
Checking the ID Number
Leaving the servo connected, switch the power OFF, then back ON. Only the 1 LED should light up.
To check the ID number, press TEST/SET. Now the 10 and 7 should light up. Note: It is crucial that all of Robi’s servos have the correct ID numbers, so check thoroughly that you have set the desired number.
TIP: It is normal for the 1 LED to light up when you switch on. It will only change to give you the ID number of the servo when you press TEST/SET. If you made a mistake or set the wrong ID number, you can reset it by going through the setting procedure again.
Once all is well, switch the power pack OFF, then carefully unplug the servo from the test board. It will retain its setting, ready to fit to Robi’s arm.
Remove the two screws holding the cover of the servo in place – keep the screws safely, but you will not need the cover again.
Connecting the servos
Fetch the right arm assembly built over the previous stages. Feed the free end of the cable attached to this issue's servo through the circular hole in the arm casing, as shown. Holding both carefully, press the connector of the forearm servo’s cable into the free socket on this stage’s servo.
TIP: Make sure that the cable’s connector is securely clipped into the servo’s socket before proceeding – if the connection is not in place correctly at this stage Robi’s arm will not work as it should!
Making sure that the cable connectors are not disturbed, and that the free end of the cable is not caught in any of the joints, position the servo into the upper arm frame and press into place.
Then, using the servo’s original four screws, fasten the servo to the upper arm frame, using the screwdriver supplied with Pack 1.
Note: For the first time, you have two of Robi’s servos set with their individual ID numbers and linked with each other. Do not connect these to the test board now in any way, as this may affect the ID numbers.
This completes this issue: Robi’s right arm is nearly complete, ready to be joined to his body store any unused parts in a bag labeled with the stage number.
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Issue 12
Your parts:
Shoulder panel
Shoulder joint
Shoulder frame
Servo cable (70mm long)
M2 x 7mm countersunk screws (x 3)
You will be using parts from the previous issues, so be sure to have
these to hand before beginning.
(Right arm assembly, protective pad sheet.)
Wiring the shoulder Joint
Feed the servo cable coming out of the upper arm frame through the hole in the shoulder joint. Run the shoulder joint along_ the cable and fit its circular hole around the raised opening of the upper arm frame.
Holding_ the parts in place, feed the tip of the servo cable over and through the indicated hole in the shoulder joint.
Keep pressing_ the parts together with your finger and thumb, then pull the cable gently so that it is taut.
Adding the shoulder frame
Feed the servo cable through the indicated hole in the shoulder frame and bring the parts together. Join the parts by placing the ‘D-cut’ hole in the frame over the corresponding servo shaft. See the Close Up pace
opposite for more information on this.
Once you have the parts aligned as they should be, press them together tightly.
To prevent the servo cable slipping out of position, pull it again gently so that it is taut.
Sealing the shoulder
Place the shoulder panel over the shoulder joint, keeping the circled holes aligned. The red line in the right photo shows the groove in the shoulder panel that will take in the servo cable, while the curved line indicates the area that will accommodate the servo’s shaft.
Once in place, secure the parts using two
M2 x 7mm countersunk screws.
Sealing the servo cable
As you have done previously, apply a protective pad to the side of this issue’s servo cable with PUSH marked on it.
Repeat for both ends of the cable.
This completes this issue store any unused parts in a bag labeled with the stage number Warthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Issue 13
Your parts:
1x Servo
You will be using parts from the previous issues, so be sure to have these to hand before beginning. Neck Stand from issue 8 and Servo cable from issue 12
The Servo cable
Take out the four screws holding the servo’s removable cover in place, and keep these safely to one side.
Gently lift the cover away, taking care not to force it or damage the circuit board underneath it.
Hold the open servo by its sides, with the circuit board facing upwards.
Fetch the servo cable fitted with protective pads in the previous issue, and press one of its connectors into the socket. It does not matter which end of the servo cable you use.
Pass the free end of the servo cable through the circular hole in the removable cover, as shown. Press the cover back into placeon the servo’s main housing.
Use the four screws removed in Step 1 to re-attach the cover. Take care not to over tighten the screws.
Testing the servo
Take the neck stand and make sure the power pack is turned OFF. Carefully unplug the black servo cable from the socket on the left of the test board and attach the servo cable connected to the servo in Step 3.
With the servo connected, switch the power to ON. After the LEDs blink twice, only the 1 LED should light up.
To test the servo, press the TEST/SET switch: the servo’s shaft should rotate 45° to the left, stop, then move back across to 45° to the right. The next step is to set the servo’s ID number, so keep the power on. If the test does not run, refer to the
HELP box on page 6 of Issue 8’s Assembly Guide.
In the coming issue's, you will again be setting a servo’s ID number using the test board, so re-familiarise yourself with the board’s lights and switches which were first explained in the assembly Guide of Issue 8. These are used to set the ID numbers of the servos. Each time you press the UP switch, the ID number increases by one, and the result is displayed by the two banks of LED lights. The top row reads in tens and the bottom in units.For example, to set the ID to 16, as you will do in this stage, you press UP 15 times. This will light up the 10 LED and the 6 LED. (If you overshoot, press the
DOWN switch to take it down one step at a time.) When the ID number is correct, you set it by pressing and holding the TEST/SET switch.
To set the ID number of the right upper arm servo to 16, press the UP button 15 times. Confirm the setting by checking that the 10 and 6 LEDs are lit, using the UP and DOWN buttons to correct the number if necessary.
Confirm the setting by pressing and holding the TEST/SET button for a few seconds. The 10 and 6 lights should flash, then go out.
Leaving the servo connected, switch the power OFF, then back ON. Only the 1 LED
should light up. To check the ID number, press TEST/SET. Now the 10 and 6 should light up. Note: It is crucial that all of Robi’s servos have the correct ID numbers, so check thoroughly that you have set the desired number.
Once all is well, switch the power pack OFF, then carefully unplug the servo from the test board. It will retain its setting, ready to fit into Robi’s shoulder in a future stage.
Assembled shoulder servo:
The servo that will operate Robi’s shoulder is assembled, wired and set. Make sure you keep this part safely, preferably in a sealed plastic bag with its ID number (16) written on it for ease of reference.
This completes this issue store any unused parts in a bag labeled with the stage numberWarthog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Issue 14
Your Parts: Right body cover, Servo horn (shoulder), M2 x 4.5mm screws x 3 (one is a spare)
Saved Parts:
You will be using parts from the previous issues, so be sure to have these to hand before beginning:
Right Arm Assembly from issue 12 and the Wired Servo from issue 13
The Right Arm and Body Cover
Carefully rotate the shoulder joint at the top of the right arm assembly so it sits at right angles to the rest of the arm. Line up the right arm to the right body cover.
Fit the servo cable emerging from the top of the arm through the circular hole in the right body cover, and the metal shoulder joint through the C-shaped slot above it, as shown.
Join the parts so they sit together snugly and the cable and joint are fully inside the cover.
Inspect the servo horn: the hole in its front side has a D-cut profile, and will face outwards, while the back of the part has a round hole that will face the servo.
Find the servo from Issue 13 and line up the servo horn so that its front faces away from the servo. Then, with the servo horn perfectly straight with its D-cut section matching the cutaway on the servo’s shaft, press the parts together. Do not force the parts.
Fitting the Right Servo Arm
Remove the four long screws from the back of the servo to access the front panel.
Remove the front panel, being careful not to pull the servo cable away as you do so. You will not be using this panel again.
Hold the open servo close to the inside of the right body panel, then
carefully press the free, padded connector of the right arm’s servo cable into its free socket.
With the circled cable bent around to run into the notch on the inside of the body cover (see box to the left), press the servo onto the correspondingly shaped mount. Hold the parts in place, then using the four screws removed in Step 7, fasten the servo to the body cover.
Remove the two screws on the shoulder joint and remove the protective panel. Very gently pull the exposed portion of the servo cable out from the elongated hole in the metal joint. Do not pinch the cable.
Lift the cable away from the side of the body panel so there is no slack, then press down with your finger over the circular hole in the arm to prevent the cable running back into the body.
Keeping the cable tight to the body side, bunch the slack up into a circle above the hole into the upper arm frame, to match the shaped recess in the inside of the shoulder panel removed in Step 12.
Fit the bunch of cable slack inside the recess, then, making sure not to pinch any part of the cable, replace the shoulder panel and tighten with its original screws.
Line up the two holes at the end of the metal shoulder joint with those on the servo horn.
Insert and tighten an M2 x 4.5mm screw into each hole to secure the parts.
Assembled right arm and body cover
The first join between one of Robi’s limbs and his body has been made, with the servos used to move Robi’s right arm wired into the one hidden within his body to control his shoulder movements. Store your assembly away
This completes this issue store any unused parts in a bag labeled with the stage number
Warthog attached the following image(s):
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