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 Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/04/2014 Posts: 7 Points: 14 Location: Scotland
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Early last year I found a relatively cheap kit on ebay and decided to have another go at this build. The plan this time is to illuminate the ship with a combination of leds and fibre optics. But to get this diary started (and work out how to post photos) here's a few pics of my first attempt. Regards, Colin. ColinQM2 attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Looks fantastic Colin, which kit is the built one?, looks like there is a lot of etch in there too. Love to see the lit up build too  Steve
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Colin Beautiful model you have yourself there. Revell really do put out some unusual and big kits. You have done this one full justice and it looks top notch in its display case. Very well done. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Looks a great build Colin, thanks for sharing.....  Regards Alan
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Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/04/2014 Posts: 7 Points: 14 Location: Scotland
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Thanks for the comments.
Yes it is big. In the case it's just over a metre long. Too big for the house so since it was built it has lived in my local travel agent's window.
The etch kit is from Gold Medal Models. That was partly what convinced me to buy the second kit on ebay as it came with the GMM etch set. For the same price as the etch kit alone! I got the Revell kit FREE. At least that was the way I explained it to my wife.
I've sailed on the ship four times now and comparing the thousands of photos I have with the model I discovered that there are a few inacuracies. So I wrote this "fix list" which may be useful for anyone who wants a more accurate model. The steps and part numbers are as listed in the supplied instructions. I know it's not exhaustive and I know I will find more as I go through this second build. I didn't fix all of these last time and I'm pretty sure I wont do so this time.
tried to attatch it as a Word document but that didn't work.
Step 7 HULL
part (2) & (3) reshape deck 5 aft openings
part (2) & (3) fit bars to hull balconies below liferafts.
part (2) & (3) open all window, porthole and mooring deck openings
Step 8 & 9 STABILISERS
part (4)G wrong colour. should be E
Step 10 HULL
hull colour C inaccurate. Try approx 50/50 mix of 350/378 darkened with a few drops of black
Step 13 DECKS 5/6 AFT
part (31)J colour should be G, light grey
part (33)J bottom of stairs should be open.
part (33)J doors are the wrong shape remove/replace
part (33)J remove 'planking'. deck should be smooth
part (50)I windows too narrow (frames too thick)
part (50)I windows on curved part should come out to corners
Step 15 DECK 7
part (34) The mounting holes for the stairs at aft of deck 7 are in the wrong place. See step 81. Fill holes
Step 16 POOL DECK
part (54)I the pool bar is the wrong shape. Should be open at right-hand (aft) end
part (51)J windows too narrow (frames too thick)
part (54)I Reduce buttress depth. see step 17
Step 17 TODD ENGLISH
part (52)J windows too narrow (frames too thick)
part (52)J slightly too far forward. should be no overhang from balcony above. cut at corner behind portside stairs to allow this.
part (52)J small section removed above. part with three windows should align with centre section.
Step 18 & 21 SUPERSTRUCTURE
part (38)I & (39)I doors into Kings Court are wrong shape. Wooden doors with round 'porthole'
part (38)I & (39)I balcony decking is not all the same colour. Britannia cabins have artificial decking K. Grill cabins have wooden decking H
Step 21 SUPERSTRUCTURE
part (38)I forward two windows on deck 7 are shown on the instructions but for some reason didn't make it to the plastic..
Part (38)I aft-most balconies on deck 8 are wrong size. Check with deck plans for cabins 8124, 8126, 8128
Step 25 DUPLEX SUITES
part (53)I windows too narrow (frames too thick)
Step 26 QUEENS GRILL DECK
part (56)K lower end of stairs needs to be opened.
part (56)K poles supporting overhanging deck above missing.
Step 27 OBSERVATION DECK
part (41)I vertical poles missing. Handrail crosses windows. Door screens missing.
parts (43)L & (45)L Deck 7 doors missing.
Step 28 DECKS 12 & 13
part (58)K remove 'planking’ around pool. This area is tiled.
Step 29 A STAIR DECKHOUSE
part (60)I the doors on this starboard side are wood.
Part (59)I forward door wood. Aft door white
Part (59)I should be a thick round pillar from each end of the bar up to the roof.
Step 30 DECKHOUSE
part (63)I remove handrails. fwd door brown. rear door open
part (64)I remove handrails. fwd door open. rear door white
part (65)I remove handrails. door white
part (67)L lower area should be grey.
Step 31 B STAIR DECKHOUSE
part (70)J remove handrails.
part (71)J should be two poles supporting each stair and single pole supporting each forward projection
Step 33 FUNNEL
part (118)I wrong colour. should be red. raised box should be white.
Step 34 FUNNEL BASE
part (72)L &(73)L turbine vents should be open
part (72)L &(73)L Door frames OK but window frames too thick.
For ref: port side configuration fore-aft is D-W-W-D-W-W-D. Starboard side fore-aft is W-D-W-D-W-W-D
Step 35
part(76)I move inner two doors to first step. cut two doorway openings in centre section. centre section and steps should be brown.
Step 37 D STAIR DECKHOUSE
part (81)I the door on this side is wood
part (83)I there should be handrails across the front of this deckhouse.
part (84)No handrail.
Step 63 FOREDECK
part (124)I foremast should be a cross
Step 64 SPARE PROP BLADES
parts (130)G & (131)G wrong places. The four centre blades (131) are one set, the outside four (130) are another.
Step 65 RAILINGS ABOVE STAIRWAY/PRINCESS GRILL
the equivalent railings for the starboard side of the ship are not in the kit.
Step 69 STAIRS TO LOOKOUT
part (204)M & (205)M the sloping handrail, on the stairs, is chrome/steel not wood
Step 72 OBSERVATION PLATFORM
Parts (208)E & (209)F the sloping handrail, on the stairs, is chrome/steel not wood
Step 77 LOOKOUT WINDSCREEN
part [174]B no white on outside of screen. Support poles missing.
Step 81 DECK 7/8 AFT STAIRS
part (142)J & (143)J (see step 15) stairs turn the other way. The lower stairs should be inboard of the upper stairs. Mount parts on opposite sides but mounting holes are wrong.
Step 86 DECK 6 AFT
part (146)I jackstaff should be mounted inside the rail, not outside.
Colours
C (Hull) Try approx 50:50 mix of Revell 350/378 darkened with a few drops of black.
H (wooden decking) changes colour drastically depending on wet/dry. 50:50 mix instead of 80:20 suggested.
K (artificial decking) 60% Revell #17 40 % Humbrol #121
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,489 Points: 24,558 Location: East midlands
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Hi Colin, That`s an impressive list of observed corrections needed to this kit. I`ve had this one in my stash for some while and when it gets opened for building I will seriously consider your list, just too much on at the moment so it will stay in the stash for know. Many Thanks for the info. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/04/2014 Posts: 7 Points: 14 Location: Scotland
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OK. So I've been doing little bits and pieces of the new build and buying lots of stuff, but haven't posted anything yet. Sorry about that. Almost every review I've read of this kit has said that the stairways at the back of deck 7 (promenade deck) have been snapped off but I've been lucky both times. The only damage that I've found (so far) is one of the props. There were two other parts loose inside their poly bags but they had come off the sprues cleanly with no damage. Some of the mouldings seem a lot messier than I remember and required a lot of tidying up. The last time, without paying too much attention, I managed to assemble the pods with all four propshafts spinning freely. This time, being extremely careful, I've managed to stick two of them solid  ColinQM2 attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/04/2014 Posts: 7 Points: 14 Location: Scotland
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With this being an illuminated model the first major task is to open all the windows / portholes / etc. in the two hull pieces. Searching around the web there seems to be two schools of thought on this and I'm now begining to think that I've chosen the wrong one  . The first method is to sand down the inside of the piece until all the material in the window has been removed. This seemed like rather a lot of work and quite risky. So I went with the other option and drilled out the portholes and cut out the windows. The drawback to this is that, when studied closely, the window frames now seem rather thick. I'm trying to convince myself that it's not too bad and hoping that it's even less noticable once the dark hull paint is applied. The aft internal bulkhead cuts across some of the restaurant windows so I'm moving it further forward (against the aft stabaliser cover) I've given the lighting some thought (like five or six years since I finished the first model ). It started with "wouldn't it be cool to have flashing lights in the disco" and developed from there. The current plan is to divide the hull into various lighting zones as below and by using different leds and/or different resistors, to vary the lighting slightly in each of the public rooms. ColinQM2 attached the following image(s):
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