|
|
 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Pack 5 contains Stages 16-20
Stage 16 - Contains a slider, 8mm M4 set screw and acrylic cogs.
Retrieve the right hand Y-axis slider rod assembly that you last worked on in Stage 15.
Insert the 8mm set screw into the screw hole in the slider and turn the Allen key clockwise to screw it in. Do not screw it all the way in, leave about 3mm of the set screw protruding from the slider.
Insert the slider rod you last worked on in Stage 15 into the hole in the slider and move the slider part way along the rod.
Stage complete. Keep the slider rod and acrylic cogs to one ready for the next stage.Tomick attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Stage 17 - Contains a S3M timing pulley/short, bearings, a 4mm M3 truss head screw, a 12mm M3 truss head screw and M3 washers.
It’s a good idea to use thread-locking fluid to stop screws loosening on the Y-axis slider rod assembly. Apply a small amount to the thread of the screw before tightening it. Use a low strength type and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Note that thread-lock may damage acrylic, therefore minimise any excess and apply it very carefully.
You'll need the housing and the right-hand Y-axis slider rod you added a slider to in Stage 16. You'll also need the 3mm set screw supplied with Stage 15.
Prepare the acrylic cogs supplied with Stage 16 by peeling off their protective layers.
Put the Y-axis slider rod trough the hole in the S3M timing pulley/short so the toothed section is closer to the end of the rod and there is about 2cm between the end of the pulley and the end of the rod.
Insert the 3mm set screw into the screw hole of the pulley and loosely tighten it with the Allen key. Stop when you begin to feel resistance. Note that the screw holes on the timing pulleys should approximately aligned.
Position the housing so the idbox logo is at the front, facing you. Hold the slider rod so that the set screw on the slider is facing you.
Put the rear long timing belt over the short timing pulley at the end of the slider rod furthest from you. Insert the end of the slider rod into the indicated hole in the rear panel of the housing. Make sure the belt does not come off the pulley. Put the front long timing belt over the short pulley at the front of the rod and then put the front end of the rod into the hole in the housing’s front panel.
Holding the rod in position, put one of the bearings into the hole in the housing so that the rod fits through the hole in the centre of the bearing. You might need to use a bit of force to stretch the belt. Turn the housing round so the rear panel is facing you and put the other bearing into the hole at top left, inserting the end of the rod into the bearing. Insert the 4mm M3 truss head screw into the screw hole on the end of the rod and tighten it fully with a screwdriver so the end surface of the rod and the head of the truss head screw are in contact and held together securely.
Put the 12mm M3 truss head screw through the hole in one of the acrylic cogs. Put one of the M3 washers on the end of the screw that protrudes through the cog.
With the front of the housing facing you, screw the screw (that you put though the cog) into the screw hole in the end of the slider rod.
At the top left of the housing, remove the screw from the end of the slider rod, put it through the other cog and washer as before and tighten in place.
Stage complete.Tomick attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Stage 18 - Contains a slider rod (X-axis/rear), S3M timing pulley/short and a 3mm M4 set screw.
Insert the slider rod through the timing pulley as shown so that there is about 2cm between the toothed end of the pulley and the end of the rod. Lightly tighten the M4 set screw until you just begin to feel resistance so that the screw is loosely tightened only.
Stage complete. Keep the slider rod to one side as you will need it in the next stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Stage 19 - Contains a slider, S3M timing pulley/long, 3mm M4 set screw and an 8mm M4 set screw.
Take the X-axis slider rod that you last worked on in Stage 18.
Screw the 8mm set screw clockwise into the screw hole in the slider until about 3mm of the screw is left protruding the screw hole.
With the set screw in the slider facing away from the short timing pulley, put the slider rod through the hole in the slider. Slide the long timing pulley on to the end of the slider rod as shown above with the screw hole end of the pulley closer to the slider. Leave about 2cm between the end of the rod and the toothed end of the timing pulley. Insert the 3mm set screw into the screw hole in the timing pulley and tighten it up clockwise, stop tightening when you begin to feel some resistance.
Stage complete.Tomick attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Stage 20 - Contains two S3M timing belt/long, a S3M timing belt/short, bearings and 4mm M3 truss head screws.
It’s a good idea to use thread-locking fluid to stop screws loosening on the X-axis slider rod assembly.
Get ready the printer housing and the rear X-axis slider rod that you last worked on in Stage 19.
Loosen the set screw in the long timing pulley on the Y axis using the 2mm Allen key. This timing pulley is at the rear left of the idbox, when the printer is viewed from the front. Move the long timing pulley along the rod until there is a gap of about 1mm between its end and the inside of the housing then tighten the set screw using the 2mm Allen key.
Turn the housing so its left side is facing you. Hold the rear X-axis slider rod so that the short timing pulley is closest to you. Put the timing belts over the pulleys as shown so that a long timing belt is over the short pulley and a long timing belt and the short timing belt are over the long timing pulley. The short timing belt should be closest to the end of the rod.
Take the end of the rod with the long timing pulley and insert it into the indicated hole in the housing. Insert the other end of the rod into the hole in the housing at the opposite end.
Put one of the bearings into the hole with its flange on the outside, then put the end of the rod through the hole in the centre of the bearing. Make sure there is no gap between the flange of the bearing and the housing.
Turn the housing so that its right side is facing you. Fit the other bearing into its hole in the housing with its flange on the outside and with the end of the rod through the hole in the bearing. Insert a 4mm M3 truss head screw into the screw hole in the end of the slider rod and tighten it with a screwdriver. Hold the rod to stop it turning while you tighten the screw.
Turn the housing so its left side is facing you and screw the other 4mm M3 truss head screw into the other end of the slider rod, tightening it with the screwdriver. If you used thread-locking fluid, tighten the screw on the right-hand end of the rod (the ‘reference side’) first before tightening the screw on the left end (the ‘adjustment side’).
This completes the assembly of Pack 5. Tomick attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Pack 6 contains Stages 21 - 25
Stage 21 - Contains a slider rod (X-axis/front), S3M timing pulley/short and M4 set screw.
Insert the slider rod through the timing pulley, as shown, so that there is about 2cm between the toothed end of the pulley and the end of the rod. Be careful not to damage the slider rod. Insert the set screw into the timing pulley’s screw hole, and turn the Allen key clockwise to tighten it. Stop turning when you begin to feel resistance.
Stage 5 instructions correction
In Stage 5, we installed the cooling fan on the rear panel of the housing so that the cable was at the top right when viewed from the rear.
Please change this by removing the cooling fan and then reinstalling it so that the cable emerges from it at the bottom right, as shown in the photo.
There might be slight variations from fan to fan in the precise spot where the cable emerges from the fan, but in all cases the cable should emerge at the bottom right.
Stage complete.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Stage 22 - Contains a slider and M4 set screw (8mm).
Put the long end of the 2mm Allen key into the hexagonal hole in the head end of the 8mm set screw, and insert the screw into the screw hole in the slider. Turn the Allen key clockwise until about 3mm of the screw remains proud of the slider. Stop when just over half of the screw is in.
Put the front X-axis slider rod (Stage 21) through the hole in the slider, and move the slider about halfway along, as shown above, with the set screw facing the short timing pulley.
Stage complete, keep the pieces safe until the next stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Stage 23 - Contains a S3M timing pulley/short, M4 set screw (3mm), Bearings and M3 truss head screws (4mm).
You’ll need the housing and the front X-axis slider rod you last worked on in Stage 22 and the housing.
Note: The screws that secure the slider rods can become loose during operation of the printer so it is a good idea to secure them with thread-locking adhesive. If you use it, first tighten the right-hand end of the rod (the ‘reference side’, see Step 10), then the left-hand end (the adjustment side, see Step 11). Follow
Start by turning the housing so that the left side of the housing is facing you. Put the X-axis slider rod through the hole in the S3M timing pulley/short, so the toothed section is closer to the end of the rod and there is about 2cm between the end of the pulley and the end of the rod.
Insert the M4 3mm set screw into the screw hole of the pulley and loosely tighten it with the 2mm Allen key. Stop when you begin to feel resistance.
Hold the slider rod as shown so that the set screw on the slider is pointing away from you. Put the long timing belt (at the rear when you view the housing from the left) over the short timing pulley at the end of the slider rod furthest from you. Insert the end of the slider rod through the hole in the housing’s right panel. Make sure the belt does not come off. Put the long timing belt closest to you over the timing pulley closest to you and insert the end of the rod through the hole in the housing’s left panel.
Put one of the bearings into the hole with its flange on the outside, inserting the end of the rod through the hole in the centre of the bearing. Turn the housing so its right side is facing you and repeat the procedure from the previous step to install the second bearing. You might need to pull gently to stretch the belt.
Insert a 4mm M3 truss head screw into the screw hole in the end of the rod. Tighten it fully with a screwdriver so the end surface of the rod and the head of the truss head screw are in contact and held together. Turn the housing so that its left side is facing you and insert the other M3 4mm truss head screw into the screw hole in the rod, tightening it with a screwdriver.
Turn the housing so that its left side is facing you. Insert the 2mm Allen key into the set screw in the long timing pulley, and turn it anticlockwise to loosen it. Slide the long timing pulley along the slider rod until there is about 1mm between its end and the inner side of the casing. Tighten the set screw with the Allen key.
Stage complete.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Stage 24 - Contains a head rod, belt clamps, small metal plate, M2.5 truss head screws (10mm) ×8 (four used this stage).
Have the housing to hand.
Carefully peel the protective paper and transparent film off the two belt clamps supplied with this stage.
To align the timing belts, adjust the position of the pulleys on the slider rods. The belts have to be parallel with – and vertically in line with – the rods. For the Y-axis belts, you move the timing pulleys on the X-axis slider rods. When the belt is aligned, it is directly above the slider rod. To check, look down on the belt and rod from directly above; if the Y-axis belt is not aligned, loosen the pulley on the X-axis with the Allen key and move the pulley until the belt is directly above the rod, then tighten the pulley as it was before.
Rotate the right-hand Y-axis slider on the slider rod, so the lower side of the timing belt fits into the groove in the slider.
There are two holes in the Y-axis limit switch plate. Put an M2.5 10mm truss head screw through the hole that is closer to the centre of the plate.
Insert the screw into the screw hole on the side of the slider that is closer to the right-hand side panel of the housing, tightening it a couple of turns. Make sure the part of the metal plate that sticks out is on this side, too.
Put one of the belt clamps on top of the plate, fitting one of the cutouts in the clamp around the screw. Insert another M2.5 10mm truss head screw into the cutout on the other side of the clamp, through the hole in the plate and into the screw hole in the slider. Then begin to tighten it. Tighten each screw in turn until they are both done up securely. Do not use too much force, however, or you might crack the acrylic the clamp is made of.
Move the slider by hand to the limit switch, checking that the part of the plate that sticks out passes through the U-shaped limit switch without touching it. After checking, move the slider back to the centre of the rod.
On the Y-axis’ opposite rod, turn the slider so its groove is uppermost and fit the belt into it. Screw an M2.5 10mm truss head screw into one of the slider’s screw holes a small way using a screwdriver (there is no metal plate to fit on this side).
Put the other belt clamp on top of the slider and belt so the clamp’s cutout fits around the screw, as shown above. Insert another M2.5 10mm truss head screw through the other cutout in the clamp and into the screw hole in the slider. Tighten the screws alternately, little by little, until they are both done up securely, but do not overtighten.
Stage complete. Keep the head rod and the remaining four M2.5 10mm truss head screws that you did not use this time safe for future use, (the screws are used in the next stage).
Tomick attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Stage 25 - Contains a head rod, belt clamps, small plate and torsion springs.
You’ll need the housing assembly that you last worked on in Stage 24, and the four remaining M2.5 10mm truss head screws that were supplied with Stage 24.
Carefully peel the protective paper and transparent film off the two belt clamps supplied with this stage.
Turn the housing upside down and with the front facing you to get access to the X-axis belts and sliders. Rotate the rear X-axis slider on the slider rod so the lower, non-toothed, side of the timing belt fits into the groove in the slider.
There are two holes in the X-axis limit switch plate. Put an M2.5 10mm truss head screw through the hole that is closer to the centre of the plate. Insert the screw into the screw hole on the side of the slider that is closer to the rear panel of the housing, tightening it a couple of turns. Make sure the part of the metal plate that sticks out is on this side, too. Put one of the belt clamps on top of the plate, fitting one of the cutouts in the clamp around the screw.
Insert another M2.5 10mm truss head screw into the cutout on the other side of the clamp, through the hole in the plate and into the screw hole in the slider. Then begin to tighten it. Tighten each screw in turn until they are both done up securely. Do not use too much force, however, or you might crack the acrylic the clamp is made of. Move the slider by hand to the limit switch, checking that the part of the plate that sticks out passes through the U-shaped limit switch without touching it. After checking, move the slider back to the centre of the rod.
On the X-axis’ opposite rod (at the front of the printer), turn the slider so its groove is uppermost and fit the belt into it. Screw an M2.5 10mm truss head screw into one of the slider’s screw holes a small way using a screwdriver (there is no metal plate to fit on this side). Put the other belt clamp on top of the slider and belt so the clamp’s cutout fits around the screw. Insert another M2.5 10mm truss head screw through the other cutout in the clamp and into the screw hole in the slider. Tighten the screws alternately, little by little, until they are both done up securely. As with the rear slider, do not use too much force or you might crack the acrylic clamp.
Pack 6 complete. Keep the head rod and the four torsion springs supplied with this stage, safe for later use.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
Guest
|
US
