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 Rank: Vice-Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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I hope this forum can stand another Sovereign of the Seas build... ;-) I started with issues 1-3, and the first thing to do was to fit the forward bulkhead and the bow formers.  Next I glued and attached rib frames. For frame 5 I found it that reversing the 5a and 5b sides gave me a bit better fit. For all other frames it was perfect the normal way around. The easiest way for me to glue the side parts was to put an extra amount of glue on the main part of the frame, then insert the side part of the frame from the bottom, while laying the whole assembly flat. This way the excess glue was pushed to the top, where it could be easily wiped away.  After adding some more ribs and mid section false keel, it was time to put it all into a keel jig. I made it from a sturdy aluminium profile and some random screws and scraps of metal. It seems to be working really well.      Next step was to file the burrs on the anchor (sorry, forgot to take a photo) and start preparing the anchor stock. I have glued the whole thing (all three layers) first, and then used a thin round file to enlarge the gap, working on both ends, until the anchor shank fit perfectly. This way I managed to achieve a very tight fit that can hold well even without a glue, and I will be able to shape and sand it at once instead of in two parts.  And that's it for my first evening with this beautiful model. I still need to finish the anchor stock, pain and fit the anchor, and make the cannons - but all that is waiting until I get some primers and paint. I have one question to others who build ships - what I should prime the wood with? For example, with cannon carriages the manual says to prime the wood then paint. But on the photos, the painted carriage still shows the wood structure underneath the paint - so has it been primed at all? Any recommended products? Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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 Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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The more the merrier I say, I especially like it when they are all staggered in there progress  This, as you are no doubt more than aware, builds into a stunning model, I'm lookng forward to following your approach to this
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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Thanks Dave, I received issues 4 and 5 yesterday so there will be an update shortly :-) Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Hi Michu, it really is great to see another SOTS build get underway and I for one will be following your progress to see how she turns out... .. Think you are off to a great start, look forward to seeing more of your build... Regards Alan
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/04/2014 Posts: 99 Points: 303 Location: Perth, Western Australia
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G'day Michu. Great start to your build and I am looking forward to see your progress.
As for your question regarding the wood primer for the carriages (as well as other areas of wood that requires painting). I use an all purpose acrylic wood sealer that is available from craft stores (the sealer I used is available from Folk Art paints suppliers). I have only used acrylic paints so my suggestion is based on this.
The sealer will soak into the unpainted wood like a sponge on the first application. Once fully dry a light sand with fine grade sandpaper to remove the resultant furry wood particles which will then provide you with a sound foundation for any subsequent layers of paint. Depending on the type of wood and how porous it is, a second light coat of sealer may be required but that is all. Otherwise you will begin to take away from the wood texture once painted.
As the sealer is clear in colour it will not interfere with the hue of any coloured paints that are applied thereafter.
Try a test piece from scrap wood to see the difference in applying paint to wood that has & has not a coat of sealer. As well as experiment with different coats of sealer and paint to achieve the result that you require.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Adam
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/03/2013 Posts: 127 Points: 395 Location: london
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Welcome to the forum Michu will be nice to follow another build hope all goes well for you,roby
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Michu Great to see your build taking shape. That keel jig you have yourself there is something very different and looks to me like it does a really good job. Never seen any metal extrusion like this before - very unique. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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 Looking forward to seeing your build michu  Rgd Martyn Building ?
Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa
Next Build ?
When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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Rank: Administration  Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,251 Points: 23,841 Location: East midlands
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Hi Michu, Good steady start. Keep up the good work. regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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It's been some time... After an awfully busy first few months of the year, I'm finally done with all my extra responsibilities besides work and finally can spend some more time building, taking pictures, posting build logs. This was probably the first weekend since a very long time ago when I was able to spend more than an hour or two on my hobby... Anyway, this is how my SOTS is progressing. More or less OK, besides the fact one of my cats have eaten some ends of the ribs... but I'll deal with that when I have to work in that area. I have one more pressing concern. Can anybody tell me if the decks should be slightly slopping up towards the stern? If not, I'm probably in trouble with the build and it will be very hard to fix at this point. I only noticed the problem when gluing in the second deck, somehow it slipped my attention when I was working on the first during some rushed time found between other activities... The problem (or not a problem?) will be visible on some of the pictures below. I started with gluing in the side stringers. While the glue was bonding, I took care of the deck extension and mounting the gallery framework.     Then I started gluing the second deck. This proved to be quite difficult - had to quickly make some makeshift temporary supports to keep everything level and to keep all the surfaces that are supposed to be glued, together. I think the support beams underneath 2nd deck could benefit from some additional support columns in the middle - I will definitely consider it when adding further decks. I only managed to add one as the remaining part of the deck was already covered.   And this mess of a picture shows the makeshift supports I was using to make sure the deck bonds well to the support beams, and also the issue I've mentioned at the start of this post - how the deck slopes up towards the last rib. Is this how it is supposed to be, or did I glue that rib too high? But on the other hand, the gallery framework sits nice and tight - and the levels match here. So, would appreciate some advice. Or maybe the slope was supposed to be here, but for some reason the rib that the ruler is clamped to is too low, making the bend too prominent? That I can fix by shimming the upper deck a bit...  This is how it all looks with clamps removed and cleaned up a bit:   I also had some time to work on the launch - this is the partially done result. There is a bit too much bend around the first rib - but I think I'll be able to fix that when sanding.  Thanks for reading, will appreciate comments. :) happy building Michał Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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You've made great progress Michu. I can't answer your question about the deck but sure someone will very soon. Chris On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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Thanks Chris... It's the first ship I'm building so obviously there is a lot of questions and a lot to learn... Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Great progress Michu, nice to see your build moving along. There is a slope to the decks, you will see the decks sit slightly higher at the bow, slope down to the mid-deck section and rise again towards the stern. From what I can see of your deck placement everything looks fine. These pics from my build shows how it should be.. http://forum.model-space...sts&t=5013&p=12
Hope this helps. Keep the pics coming.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,251 Points: 23,841 Location: East midlands
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Hi Michu, Good to hear you`re getting more hobby time. The extra time shows in the results, that look spot on to me. WTG Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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Thanks guys, I really appreciate your comments. Happy for the deck slope being an expected feature not a mishap:) Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Looking great Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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Had a chance to spend a bit more time - this time I worked on the launch and some other small details. Planked:    And painted (needs a bit of sanding and one more layer after that, I think)   I finally finished both the anchors, the large one, and the tiny one:   Also, the oars:  And this is a very good glue. Lots of glue, which is good, as I don't want any other and this will last me for ages:  Happy modelling :) Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Looks great and nicely done, the launch is spot on too Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Very nice progress Steve
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Great work Michu. Looks very nice. Cheers On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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