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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Pack 19 contains Stages 61 - 64
Stage 61 - Contains the LH side panel, water bypass hose, steering stem and nut.
Have ready: Front fork assembly (Stage 54), Radiator (Stage 34), Breather hose (Stage 34), Radiator inlet hose connector (Stage 51), Left frame half (Stage 54), Engine block (Stage 59), 2.3x6mm (silver) screw x1 (Stage 37).
Prepare the radiator (Stage 34) and the radiator inlet hose connector (Stage 51). Insert the connector into the hole in the back of the radiator.
Take the engine block, and identify the ends of the hoses and pipes on it as shown in Step 3. Then look for the corresponding holes in the radiator and the oil cooler. First, place the two indicated hose ends into the holes in the radiator. Push the two hose ends into place. This should now hold the radiator in position. Now fit the remaining hoses and pipes into the three holes indicated in Step 7.
Place one of the ends of the breather hose (Stage 34) above the pin projecting from the breather cover, towards the rear of the engine. Push the end of the hose onto the pin. Bend the breather hose over and place the other end onto the pin on the oil return tank. Then take the hose extending from the radiator cap and hold it next to the radiator inlet hose to check how much excess there is, then cut off the excess hose and push the hose onto the pin projecting from the radiator inlet hose.
Remove the steering damper case from the front fork assembly (Stage 54). Insert a 2.3x6mm (silver) screw (Stage 37) into the indicated hole in the case. Insert the end of the screw into the hole indicated at the front of the left frame half and tighten the screw into the hole.
This stage is now complete. Store the assembly and unused parts in labelled bags.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 62 - Contains the upper panel, left & right intake joints, upper panel decal, and the left air intake pipes A & B.
Have ready: Paddock stand (Stage 38), Frame bridge B (Stage 39), Frame bridge D (Stage 39), Pivot shaft (Stage 48), Pivot shaft nut (Stage 48), 3x68mm shaft (Stage 48), Swing arm (Stage 60), Right frame half (Stage 60), Engine block (Stage 61), Left frame half (Stage 61), 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screws x2 (Stage 39), 2.3x10mm self-tapping screw (Stage 36), 2.3x12mm screws x2 (Stage 36), 2.3x6mm (silver) screws x5 (Stage 42), Thick sheet of sponge (see Step 4), Assembly guide Stages 36, 37 and 60.
Identify the left and right intake joints by the 'L' and 'R' stamped on them. Insert the left intake joint into the hole in the left frame half, with the 'L' at the bottom. Insert the right intake joint into the corresponding hole in the right frame half, with the identifying letter at the bottom.
Place the engine block and the swingarm onto a thick, suitably sized sheet of sponge or similar cushioning material, arranged as shown in Step 4.
Position frame bridge C on either side of the cylindrical projection at the bottom of the engine block, aligning the holes. Position the oil pan cable in the gap. Take the right frame half and hold it above the rest of the assembly, aligning the recessed area with the matching shape at the end of frame bridge C. Slowly lower the frame half onto the rest of the assembly, placing the recessed area onto the end of frame bridge C.
Insert a 2.3x12mm screw (Stage 36) into the screw hole shown in Step 8 and tighten the screw in place. Insert a 2.3x6mm (silver) screw into the hole indicated in Step 10 and tighten in place.
Hold all the parts together and turn the assembly over. Insert the 3x68mm shaft (Stage 48) into the indicated hole in the engine block. Pass the 3x68mm shaft right through the engine and into the right frame half. Now place main frame bridge B (Stage 39) into the corresponding hole in the right frame half.
Take the drive chain and pull it forward over the drive sprocket. Turn the drive sprocket slowly to engage the chain with the teeth. If the chain is too tight, loosen the two screws indicated in Step 17.
Take frame bridge D (Stage 39) and place it between the two holes in the projections at the top of the radiator. At the same time, fit it into the corresponding area of the right frame half. Lower the left frame half onto the assembly. Try to place it into roughly the correct position. Place the corresponding parts of the frame half onto the ends of frame bridge A, frame bridge B and the 3x68mm shaft. Position the left frame half onto frame bridges C and D, and then gently push the two halves of the frame together to engage them fully.
Insert a 2.3x12mm screw (Stage 36) into the indicated hole at the bottom of the left frame half and tighten the screw.
Insert a 2.3x6mm (silver) screw (Stage 42) into the hole towards the front of the left frame half and tighten the screw.
Insert the pivot shaft (Stage 48) into the indicated hole in the left frame half in Step 26. Adjust the position of the swingarm so that the shaft can pass through it. Continue to push the shaft through the swingarm until it protrudes from the right frame half. If necessary, use a screwdriver to help you push it through. Align the holes of the left frame half and seat rail (see Stage 60 for reference) and place a 2.3x6mm (silver) screw (Stage 42) into the indicated hole in Step 28 and tighten the screw. Tighten another 2.3x6mm (silver) screw into the hole above the first.
Insert a 2.3x6mm (silver) screw (Stage 42) into the hole indicated in Step 31 at the front of the left frame half and tighten the screw.
Insert a 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screw (Stage 39) into the hole in the top of the radiator that is aligned with the hole in frame bridge D (Step 18) and tighten the screw.
Turn the assembly over, and place the nut (Stage 48) onto the end of the pivot shaft (Steps 26 and 27). Turn the pivot shaft into the nut, using a screwdriver.
Place a 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screw (Stage 39) into the hole at the top right of the radiator. Tighten the screw into the aligned holes of the radiator and frame bridge D.
Pass a 2.3x10mm self-tapping screw (Stage 36) through frame bridge B and the shock absorber lever, as shown in Step 39. Pass a screwdriver through the hole shown in the Step 40 photo, and tighten the 2.3x10mm self-tapping screw into the hole. Continue to tighten the screw until its tip protrudes from the left side of frame bridge B.
Take the paddock stand, and lift the rear of rear wheel assembly onto the paddock stand (Stage 38).
This Stage is now complete. Take extra care when storing the assembly from now on, and keep the unused parts near to hand because you will be using them in the next stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 63 - Contains the right air intake pipes A & B, cowling brace, LED instrument panel, 2.3x5mm self-tapping screws and 2.3x6mm (silver) screws.
Have ready: Instrument panel (Stage 13), Instrument panel case (Stage 13), Sprocket cover (Stage 42), Main frame (Stage 62), Left air intake pipe A (Stage 62), Left air intake pipe B (Stage 62), 2.3x4mm tapping screw x2 (Stage 13), 2.3x6mm (silver) screw x1 (Stage 42).
Take left air intake pipes A and B (Stage 62) and Insert the thinner posts of left air intake pipe B into the wider posts left air intake pipe A, then push left air intake pipes A and B together. Repeat to combine the two halves of the right air intake pipe.
Prepare the instrument panel and the panel case, both from Stage 13, and two 2.3x4mm self-tapping screws. Take the LED board, and align the three circled holes with the three posts on the instrument panel case. Avoid touching the circuitry of the LED board if possible. Fit the LED board cables into the cutout of the case.
Insert the four pins on the case into the four corresponding holes in the back of the instrument panel, and lightly push the pins of the case into the holes in the instrument panel.
Take the end of the LED board cables and pass it through the central opening in the cowling brace. Align the three posts on the rear of the base with the three holes in the front of the cowling brace, and push the instrument panel into place. Insert a 2.3x4mm self-tapping screw into the indicated hole in the rear of the brace and tighten the screw. Tighten another 2.3 x4mm self-tapping screw into the other hole in the cowling brace.
Locate the two pins on the inside of the sprocket cover (Stage 42). Locate the two circled holes in the left side of the engine block. The pins of the sprocket cover will be inserted into these holes. Line up the pins on the sprocket cover with the holes in the engine block. Tilt the sprocket cover forwards, and insert the bottom of it between the gearshift shaft and the crankcase. Push the lower pin of the sprocket cover into the lower hole, then rotate the top of the cover to the rear so that it fits into the frame. Insert the upper pin of the sprocket cover into the upper hole in the crankcase. Insert a 2.3x 6mm (silver) screw (Stage 42) into the hole in the sprocket cover and tighten the screw in place.
This stage is now complete. Store the air intakes until they are needed at a later stage. The instrument panel will be used in the next stage.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 64 - Contains the front cowl and front indicator LED's.
Have ready: Gear cover (Stage 28), LED Tester (Stage 47), Left front footrest (Stage 59), Water bypass hose (Stage 61), Main frame (Stage 63), Instrument panel (Stage 63), 2x5mm hex screws x2 (Stage 49), 1.8x6mm self-tapping screw (Stage 50), AAA batteries x3.
If you have not already done so, insert three AAA batteries into the battery box.
Insert the battery box connector (black) into the black socket on the test board (Stage 47). Then insert the white instrument panel connector (6-pin) into the corresponding socket on the test board. When you plug the connector into the socket, the LEDs of the instrument panel should light up. After testing the LEDs, remove the connector from the test board and store the instrument panel in a labelled bag.
Take the water bypass hose (Stage 61) and hold it on the left side of the assembly, with the end at the bottom. Pass the top of the water bypass hose inside the frame. Place the end of the water bypass hose below the cylindrical projection and push the end of the hose into the hole in the underside of the cylindrical projection. Insert the other end of the water bypass hose into the side of the water pump, push the end of the hose into the hole in the water pump, while holding the other end in place to prevent it coming out.
Take the gear cover (Stage 28) and position it next to the sprocket cover, matching the thin pin with the small hole and the thick pin with the large hole and push the gear cover into place.
Pass the two relay unit cables (Stage 15) forward between the seat rail and the left frame half, pull the cables through the frame and tuck the ends of the cables below the frame bridge.
Place the left front footrest (Stage 59) into the recessed area on the left frame half. Align the screw holes of the footrest with those in the frame. Insert a 2x5mm hex screw (Stage 49) into the hole in the footrest and tighten the screw. Tighten a second 2x5mm hex screw into the other hole in the footrest, securing it to the frame.
Lift the gearshift link rod up to the same height as the gearshift lever. Align the holes of both the gearshift link rod and the gearshift lever, then tighten a 1.8x6mm self-tapping screw (Stage 50) into the hole in the lever, while holding the rod in place. Move the gearshift pedal up and down. If it doesn’t move freely, try loosening the 1.8x6mm self-tapping screw.
This completes the assembly of Pack 19. Store the unused parts in labelled bags.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Pack 20 contains Stages 65 - 67
Stage 65 - Contains the headlight case, lens and high/low beam LED's.
Have ready: The Right front footrest (Stage 49), Rear brake hose (Stage 49), Rear reservoir tank hose (Stage 49), Stop lamp switch wire (Stage 49), Main assembly (Stage 64), 2x 5mm hex screws x2 (Stage 49).
Align the D-shaped pin of the stop lamp switch (Stage 49) with the corresponding hole in the right front footrest (Stage 49). Push the pin into the hole in the footrest. If it is loose, you can secure with adhesive.
Insert the pin at the end of the rear brake hose (Stage 49) into the hole in the footrest (arrowed). Secure the pin with adhesive if it is loose. Insert the pin at the end of the rear reservoir tank hose (Stage 49) into the indicated hole in the footrest. Glue in place if loose.
Cut the hose extending from the rear brake master cylinder to about 2mm. Then For a more authentic look, you should paint it silver.
Pass the brake light red connector under the seat rail, pull the connector through the hole that you made in the rear fender in Stage 58. Then pass the white connector of the IR sensor behind the frame bridges and through the hole in the fender.
Position the right front footrest on the right side of the frame. Align the holes of the footrest with those in the frame, then place a 2x5mm hex screw (Stage 49) into the indicated hole and tighten in place with an allen key. Then tighten a second 2x5mm hex screw into the lower hole of the footrest.
Position the rear reservoir tank hose along the seat rail and cut off the end of the rear reservoir tank hose at the point indicated in Step 16, then insert the tip of the hose into the gap between the seat rail and the rear fender.
Draw the stop lamp switch wire through the frame, under frame bridge and insert the end into the indicated hole in the engine.
Push the hose attachments on the rear brake hose towards the end of the hose, then pass the hose back along the swingarm. Insert the first attachment into the notch indicated in the swingarm, then insert the second attachment into the second notch in the swingarm. If either of the attachments is loose, secure it with a drop of adhesive.
Take the rear brake hose and align the pin in the end with the hole in the brake caliper and push the pin into the hole in the brake caliper.
This stage is now complete. Store the unused parts in a labelled bag.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 66 - Contains the wind shield, left & right indicator lens, 2x5mm hex self-tapping screws and 2.3x5mm self-tapping screws.
Have ready: The LED Tester (Stage 47), Horn (Stage 50),,Radiator reservoir tank (Stage 51), Side stand (Stage 58), Front cowl (Stage 64), Front left and right indicators (Stage 64), Headlight case (Stage 65), Headlight lens (Stage 65), Headlight LEDs (Stage 65), Main assembly (Stage 65), 2.3x5mm screws x2(Stage 35), 2.3x 6mm silver self-tapping screws x2 (Stages 39 and 42), 2.3x8mm black hex screw (Stage 58), 2.3x6mm black hex screw (Stage 58).
The Hayabusa was originally equipped with only a side stand, and the centre stand was an optional extra. However, there was a demand from customers who wanted to prevent any possibility of the bike falling, so the centre stand became standard equipment. As this model is based on the first Hayabusa, it has a built-in side stand only, the paddock stand was an option.
If you have not already done so, insert the three AAA batteries into the battery box. Plug the black battery box connector into the black socket of the LED tester (Stage 47).
Distinguish between the front left and front right turn indicator LED's (Stage 64) by the colours of their wires, as shown in Step 3. Insert the green indicator connector into the socket on the LED tester marked JP5, both LED's should light up.
Disconnect all the connectors from the LED tester, then cut the sides of the JP3 socket as shown in Step 7.
Now take the the headlight LEDs (Stage 65). The high beam (left) has grey and brown wires, whereas the low beam (right) has red and black wires. Take the white headlight connector and plug the half of the connector with (red and black wires) into the JP3 socket (only one half of this connector will fit into the socket at a time.) When this half of the connector is plugged into the socket, the low beam LED should light up.
Next, remove the connector and plug the other half of the connector into the same socket. This time, the high beam LED at the end of the grey and brown cables should light up.
Now remove all of the connectors from the sockets on the LED tester and store the tester for later use.
Varnishing the cowling: Further finishing of the bodywork is not necessary, but you may wish to enhance the bodywork by applying a clear gloss coat to provide a high-gloss finish.
Note that it is an advanced technique only suitable for experienced modellers. Therefore you should be confident that you can complete the task to a high standard before you proceed.
Note that the paintwork can be damaged by use of a solvent based gloss coat. Only use an aqueous (water-based) product such as Mr Hobby B-501 or Tamiya X-22 clear, (note that Tamiya TS-13 is solvent based).
You should test any chosen product on an inside inconspicuous part of the bodywork to confirm that the gloss will not react with the paint of the model. When applying varnish to any of the cowling pieces, you must first remove them from the bike.
Insert the front left indicator LED into the indicated hole in the front cowl (Stage 64). Push the LED into the hole in the cowl. If the LED is loose, apply some adhesive around the edge of the hole to secure it, (Do Not use Superglue as this may fog the LED).
Fit the front right indicator into the hole in the right side of the front cowl. Again, use some adhesive to secure it if it is loose.
Align the headlight lens (Stage 65) with the central hole in the cowl. Rest the lens into the recessed edge of the hole in the cowl, then place the headlight case (Stage 65) into the cowl while holding the lens in position.
Align the holes at the side of the headlight case with those in the cowl. Insert a 2.3x 6mm silver self-tapping screw (Stage 39) into the hole in the side of the case and tighten the screw. Tighten a second 2.3x6mm silver self-tapping screw (Stage 42) into the second hole in the case.
Insert the high beam LED into the lower hole in the case. Push the LED into the hole. Secure it with adhesive if it is loose. Push the low beam LED into the upper hole in the case.
Align the projection of the horn (Stage 50) with the hole in the underside of frame bridge D, as shown. Push evenly on both sides of the horn to insert the pin into the hole.
Take the side stand (Stage 58) and place it on the left side of the frame. Tap the two indicated holes with a 2.3mm tap (or with a 2.3mm self-tapping screw) to create a thread that will take the screws used to secure the stand.
Align the holes of the side stand with those in the frame. Place a 2.3x6mm black hex screw (Stage 58) into the cross wrench, and insert the tip into the upper hole of the stand. Turn the cross wrench to the right, to tighten the screw into place in the hole in the frame, then tighten a 2.3x8mm black hex screw into the second hole of the stand.
Insert a 2.3x5mm screw (Stage 35) into the indicated hole at the top of the radiator reservoir tank (Stage 51).
Insert the tip of the screw into the indicated hole in the left side of the frame and tighten the screw into place. Inset a second 2.3x5mm screw into the other hole at the top of the tank and tighten it into the hole in the frame. Take the hose extending from the radiator reservoir tank and pass it down alongside the tank, as shown in Step 35.
This complete's this Stage, carefully store the unused parts in a labelled bag.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 67 - Contains the under cowl, centre cowl frame, left grip, left handle, hande end, clutch lever and 2x6mm black self- tapping screws.
Have ready: Hoses (Stage 65), Front cowl (Stage 66), Front shield (Stage 66), Left indicator lens (Stage 66), Right indicator lens (Stage 66), Main frame (Stage 66), 2x5mm hex self-tapping screws x2 (Stage 66), 2.3x6mm silver self-tapping screws x2 (Stage 42).
Take the hose extending from the thermostat attached to the upper left back side of the radiator and pass it up through the frame. You can secure the ends with adhesive. Cut the thermostat hose where it meets the frame as shown in Step 2, then secure the hose to the inside of the frame with tape. The hose would normally be bundled up with cables on the real bike, but for ease of assembly of the model, it will be hidden away here.
Prepare the two hoses left over from Stage 65. Align the end of one of the two hoses with the projection at the bottom of the radiator reservoir tank and push the hose onto the projection. Pass the other end between the radiator reservoir tank and the cylinder block.
Take the other hose, pass it down through the frame, and align it with the radiator inlet hose connector and fit the hose onto the end of the connector. Fix the other end of the hose to the inside of the frame with tape, as shown in Step 10.
Place the front shield at the top of the front cowl (both parts from Stage 66). Align the holes in the shield with the corresponding holes in the cowl. Insert a 2.3x6mm silver self-tapping screw (Stage 42) into one of the pairs of aligned holes near the bottom of the shield and tighten the screw into place. Tighten another 2.3x6mm silver self-tapping screw into the holes on the other side of the shield.
Insert a 2x5mm hex self-tapping screw (Stage 66) into one of the pairs of aligned holes at the top of the cowl and use an allen key to tighten the screw into place. Tighten a second 2x5mm hex self-tapping screw into the holes on the other side.
Identify the two indicator lenses from Stage 66. Each has a hook at the top and the bottom. Position the left indicator lens over the left indicator, push the indicator lens into place, engaging the hooks with the corresponding holes in the cowl. Fit the right indicator lens in the same way.
This completes this Stage, store the unused parts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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