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Jase's beginners ship building tutorial. HM Schooner Pickle Options
Nige
#21 Posted : 25 June 2015 20:40:44

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Thanks for doing this Jase, what a brilliant idea.
My scratch build attempt can wait for another time.
I've ordered the kit today and will build along with you.

Kind regards Nigel
Building: Sovereign Of The Seas Reading About Everyone Elses Builds[/b]

Enjoy Making

Nige
jase
#22 Posted : 25 June 2015 20:55:56

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Nige wrote:
Thanks for doing this Jase, what a brilliant idea.
My scratch build attempt can wait for another time.
I've ordered the kit today and will build along with you.

Kind regards Nigel



Hi Nigel and welcome aboardBigGrin

I will try and get my next update out at the weekend, but i do have another project running in the background that has to take priority for a few weeks so initial progress may be a little slow, but soon be on this full time.

Jase
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
ian smith
#23 Posted : 26 June 2015 12:54:59

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Hi Jase.
Look foward to seeing this one. great idea Ian Cool BigGrin
Current builds.Hachettes build the bismark,HMS Victory, HMS Hood.
Finished Builds Corel HMS Victory cross section.
jase
#24 Posted : 27 June 2015 14:44:23

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Step 1. Preparing the Keel.

Tools required
Saw
Abrasive paper
Sanding block
Pencil
Flexicurve - optional



First step is to remove the main keel, part 10 from the fret by cutting trough the tabs with a saw, take care not to damage the keel; Don't cut to close the the part.



Using a sanding block and abrasive paper carefully sand back the tabs until totally smooth with the part edge. Be carful not to over sand as this may effect part fit later. Once this is done take a small 'thumb size' piece of fine emory paper and sand all the edges to remove the wood fibre tufts left behind by the CNC process, this will prevent parts fouling and ensure the glue can bond parts properly.

With the main keel cleaned up the next job is to mark out the bearding line in readiness for reducing the keel thickness at the stern. A simple solution is to make a card template using the 1:1 scale drawing on Plan 1. I have chosen to use a flexicurve. Flexicurve is a great tool for making curves direct from plans and are easy to find in large hobby and craft shops. Which ever method you chose to use ensure you mark the bearding line on both sides of the keel.




Once the keel is marked up we need to taper the marked off area from 5mm to 3mm at the edge.
An easy way to check this is to use the laminations of the plywood. The keel is made of 5 laminated sheets each 1mm thick. to reduce the thickness to 3mm we simply sand one lamination thickness away on each side.
ensure you create a smooth taper with no steps gradually reducing the part thickness down to 3mm at the part edge.



Before we can begin construction we need to purchase or make a baseboard as a building jig. This will ensure that as we construct the frames that form the shape of the hull straight and true. This is the most critical part of the build as failure to build the frames correctly will cause the hulk to be misinformed.

The simplest and most cost effective way to create a build board is to buy some 90 degree angles and screw them to a perfectly flat wood board.



There are a variety of purpose built building jigs available on the market and the choice is yours which way you would like to go.
for this build i will be using a magnetic build board. This solution is becoming more popular for jigging all sorts of parts while constructing models.



That completes the first step. Please post any questions or comments in the build diary so that others can see the answers, don't be afraid to ask questions, there is no such thing as a silly question.

Happy modelling
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
jase
#25 Posted : 28 June 2015 08:39:08

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ian smith wrote:
Hi Jase.
Look foward to seeing this one. great idea Ian Cool BigGrin


Thanks Ian it is a really nice kit

Jase
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
jase
#26 Posted : 14 July 2015 22:31:25

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Building the ribs.

Tools required.

Sanding block
small piece of separate sanding paper
0.75mm drill bit and pin vice
modellers hammer
4 x 90 degree brackets

You will also need a small saw, pencil and rule and some clamps.
You will also need some wood glue, preferably Aliphatic. There are lots of brands of this and suppliers.


Optional tool
This is by no way necessary, however I use this hand held belt sander for quickly sanding small flat tasks. this particular Proton belt sander allows you to mount it on your desk and is ideal for speeding up small sanding tasks.



This build sequence begins with the carful removal of the stem, and stern post from the walnut sheet using a small saw. Once removed sand off the remaining tabs until they are flush with the surface. then using a small piece of sanding paper remove any rough edges left by the CNC process. The false keel is a separate item and needs to be cleaned up in the same way.



Run a bead of glue on the inside of the stem where it comes into contact with the keel. fit the part ensuring it is perfectly aligned with the keel and hold in place with clamps.

Before fitting the false keel we need to temporarily hold the stern post in place. You could do this with tape, or as i have with rubber bands. Then mark the centre of the keel and the stern post to aid alignment. Glue and clamp in place ensuring the joint with the stem is perfectly aligned and held tightly together.



While the assembly dries remove the ribs parts 1 - 9 from the ply sheet and clean up the parts as before sanding off the tabs. Once done test fit the parts in the keel. Note there are two slots in the keel that lean backwards, these are for the masts and should not be confused with slots for the ribs. The top of the ribs should be even with the keel top.
Remove part 32, false deck and test fit this also, if required adjust the centre slot to allow installation of the part.



Once you are happy with the fit of all the parts glue the ribs in place clamping 90 degrees brakes against the part and the keel to ensure the parts are square. Let each part dry before attempting to fit the next rib. Part 9 can be left off for now.



When all the ribs are set in place the stern post can be installed. Ensure this is perfectly in line with the keel

With the stern post in set in place Part 9 can be installed, checking orientation with Plan sheet number 1.

Remove the plank termination patterns, parts 11 & 12 from the ply sheet and clean up. fit part 11 first ensuring the groove faces outwards.



IMPORTANT NOTE no glue should be applied above the grove line.

ensure the part is set correctly with the bottom of the groove alined to the top of the keel
Instal part 12 again ensuring it sits level with the top of the keel.

Finally remove and clean up the gunport pattern former, part 13. this should be installed cross referencing plan number 1. The former should be fitted using nails and not glue. Carefully drill a 0.75mm pilot hole at the 4 points of contact with ribs 2 and 3. using a modellers hammer or pin pusher nail the former in place..




This completes this stage.

Any comments welcome as always.

Jase
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
davetwin
#27 Posted : 14 July 2015 23:06:05

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Awesome update Jase and some fantastic photo's too Cool
daffy09
#28 Posted : 14 July 2015 23:35:23

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Great tutorial Jase. I'm now seriously considering buying this kit so I can build along with you; just have to convince my better half that it is a justifiable expense and that I will complete my other projects as well.BigGrin
RogerThornhill
#29 Posted : 15 July 2015 00:59:28

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Looking good, wondering where you got the magnetic build board. I'm in the U.S. do u know where I can get one here?
jase
#30 Posted : 15 July 2015 06:39:27

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davetwin wrote:
Awesome update Jase and some fantastic photo's too Cool


Many thanks BigGrin it's all in the quality of the camera really lol
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
jase
#31 Posted : 15 July 2015 06:41:38

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daffy09 wrote:
Great tutorial Jase. I'm now seriously considering buying this kit so I can build along with you; just have to convince my better half that it is a justifiable expense and that I will complete my other projects as well.BigGrin


Good luck smuggling that one in LOL LOL your certainly welcome aboard and it's a great kit

Jase
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
jase
#32 Posted : 15 July 2015 06:45:32

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RogerThornhill wrote:
Looking good, wondering where you got the magnetic build board. I'm in the U.S. do u know where I can get one here?


Hi and thanks for looking in. This is the link to the magnetic build boards

http://www.micromark.com...s-x-24-inches,7360.html

Jase
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
Martyn Ingram
#33 Posted : 15 July 2015 07:54:40

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BigGrin Cracking start to your tutorial Jase brill idea Cool

Rgd Martyn
Building ?
Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa
Next Build ?
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jase
#34 Posted : 15 July 2015 21:22:32

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Martyn Ingram wrote:
BigGrin Cracking start to your tutorial Jase brill idea Cool

Rgd Martyn


Thanks Martyn fairing the hull videos planned next

Jase
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
greyhawk
#35 Posted : 15 July 2015 21:57:47

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RogerThornhill
#36 Posted : 16 July 2015 01:44:27

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Thanks for the info...I think I will get one.
kpnuts
#37 Posted : 19 July 2015 12:16:03

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It's nice to learn new stuff loving this guide, thanks jase.
Ken's the name modeling's the game.
jase
#38 Posted : 06 August 2015 22:16:09

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Fairing the hull.

Before we can begin the process of fairing the hull we need to fix the false deck. the instructions ask you to simply glue in place, but we do need to ensure it is perfectly level. I added a centre line as the fit is loose.



Run a bead of glue along the keel and push the deck in place. I also used some pins just to ensure it did not slip.




Once the false deck is dry and fixed in place we can shape the hull.

Please see the video on the link below where I discus the process of fairing the hull.

https://youtu.be/NOcXJE748AM

Thanks for following. all comments greatly appreciated.

Jase
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
daffy09
#39 Posted : 07 August 2015 14:18:15

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Super tutorial, and a great video, concise and well explained. Just what we beginners need. Thank you Jase for the time and effort you are putting into this project.
P.S: Still trying to convince my other half about this one so I don't think I'll be sneaking it in any time soonBigGrin
Happy building
David
michu
#40 Posted : 07 August 2015 14:23:30

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My better half still tells me: you like it? then you MUST get it.
I hope it won't change anytime soon :D
Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.

Happy building :-)

http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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