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 Rank: Vice-Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/05/2014 Posts: 912 Points: 2,773 Location: East Sussex UK
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For the second deck i have decided not to use the deck beams but instead glue the deck straight onto the supports on the ribs and then using Balsa Wood to create supports for the middle of the decks, i'm doing this because i dont like the idea of pencilling in the planks, the deck beams are 1.5mm and the deck is 2mm, my theory is using the 2mm decks onto the supports and then planking the deck with 1.5mm material making 3.5mm so the level of the deck does not change, i am planning to do this with all of the decks, i have used the second deck as a template for the quarterdeck so hopefully with a bit of re-working i can make it fit, if anybody can see a flaw in this plan which will affect what happens further on in the build can you please let me know, the only thing i can think of is the height of the cabins under the poop deck, i would very much appreciate any thoughts on this. Cheers Paul  Gibbo attached the following image(s): Building: DelPrado HMS Victory. Building: DeAgostini Sovereign Of The Seas.
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Not sure I fully understand, you say you are doing this on all decks just to avoid penciling the small area of planks on deck 2? Seems over-engineered if so but I may be missing something?  You wont be able to run the balsa supports all the way down the next deck either as there are steps down to the second deck from the 3rd deck. Personally, Id stick with the plan but like I said, I may not be seeing the full picture  Steve
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Hi Gibbo, I think I see what you are hoping to achieve and why. If you are doing the version with the cutout then can see why you would want to plank that area instead of pencilling in the decking lines however, if you are doing the build without the cutout then there isn't much of your decking that will be visible. Also, there isn't any reason to do the same for any of the other decks as you lay the deck planks directly onto the deck supports themselves rather than onto a plywood platform. Therefore from here on I would agree with Stevie, follow the build instructions for laying the next decks....  .. Hope this helps.. Regards Alan
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I get what your doing and your calculations seem sound to me. It will certainly improve the look of the deck in the areas visible . One issue you may have is that some of the deck beams needed their height adjusting. Easy to correct when following the instructions but almost impossible using your method. I think you wit find it very challenging to have a perfectly flat deck Thus would suggest your do not deviate from the instructions, simply add the deck strips in thin vanear strip and achieve the same effect with less effort an exposure to build risk Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/05/2014 Posts: 912 Points: 2,773 Location: East Sussex UK
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stevie_o wrote:Not sure I fully understand, you say you are doing this on all decks just to avoid penciling the small area of planks on deck 2? Seems over-engineered if so but I may be missing something? You wont be able to run the balsa supports all the way down the next deck either as there are steps down to the second deck from the 3rd deck. Personally, Id stick with the plan but like I said, I may not be seeing the full picture Steve Hi Steve Thanks for getting back to me on this, as somebody who's already built a fantastic model of this i really appreciate your input and advice, what i'm trying to explain ( maybe not so well the first time, hopefully better the second ) is it's not just about the small area on deck 2, it's about all decks up to the poop & fore deck, as i've looked ahead into the build, all of the decks and nail heads are pencilled in crossways on every deck, separating the deck planking, and also the nail heads, using the plywood platforms would also remove the need for the small supports working towards the edge of each deck as in issue 46, i know i would not be able to lay balsa supports all the way through, but i think i would be able to lay enough on each deck so that it is not visible under any of them but just enough to support the plywood platforms, then lay individual caulked planks on top to give the decking a little more texture. i'm obviously a long way off doing this yet but just trying to think ahead. i was just wondering if i dropped the underneath of the deck by 1.5mm without changing the heights of the decks would it affect anything later on in the build ? Hope this helps to explain a little better Cheers Steve Paul Building: DelPrado HMS Victory. Building: DeAgostini Sovereign Of The Seas.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/05/2014 Posts: 912 Points: 2,773 Location: East Sussex UK
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Gandale wrote:Hi Gibbo, I think I see what you are hoping to achieve and why. If you are doing the version with the cutout then can see why you would want to plank that area instead of pencilling in the decking lines however, if you are doing the build without the cutout then there isn't much of your decking that will be visible. Also, there isn't any reason to do the same for any of the other decks as you lay the deck planks directly onto the deck supports themselves rather than onto a plywood platform. Therefore from here on I would agree with Stevie, follow the build instructions for laying the next decks.... .. Hope this helps.. Regards Alan Hi Alan, Thanks for getting back to me, i am not going with the cut-out version, i have just replied to Steve, if you can take a look at that reply and get back to me i would very much appreciate it. Thanks Alan Paul Building: DelPrado HMS Victory. Building: DeAgostini Sovereign Of The Seas.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/05/2014 Posts: 912 Points: 2,773 Location: East Sussex UK
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jase wrote:I get what your doing and your calculations seem sound to me.
It will certainly improve the look of the deck in the areas visible .
One issue you may have is that some of the deck beams needed their height adjusting. Easy to correct when following the instructions but almost impossible using your method. I think you wit find it very challenging to have a perfectly flat deck
Thus would suggest your do not deviate from the instructions, simply add the deck strips in thin vanear strip and achieve the same effect with less effort an exposure to build risk
Jase Hi Jase Thank you for the reply so quickly, there is quite a lot of visible deck, poop, fore & quarter, i will do a test piece of veneer, that just reminded me of Gandale's SOTS build where he caulked the veneer, looks great, i'm not trying to have perfectly flat deck but more of a textured look where i can drill and treenail, can you explain more about the deck beams needing their height adjusting, not something i've come across yet ? thanks Jase Paul Building: DelPrado HMS Victory. Building: DeAgostini Sovereign Of The Seas.
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Gibbo wrote:Gandale wrote:Hi Gibbo, I think I see what you are hoping to achieve and why. If you are doing the version with the cutout then can see why you would want to plank that area instead of pencilling in the decking lines however, if you are doing the build without the cutout then there isn't much of your decking that will be visible. Also, there isn't any reason to do the same for any of the other decks as you lay the deck planks directly onto the deck supports themselves rather than onto a plywood platform. Therefore from here on I would agree with Stevie, follow the build instructions for laying the next decks.... .. Hope this helps.. Regards Alan Hi Alan, Thanks for getting back to me, i am not going with the cut-out version, i have just replied to Steve, if you can take a look at that reply and get back to me i would very much appreciate it. Thanks Alan Paul Hi Gibbo, things are clearer now as to what you are hoping to achieve and how. As long as your overall finished deck height remains unchanged then it should be achievable without creating problems further down the line. As for the balsa supports, you could consider using pillars to support the decks where they may be seen through the companionways. The other thing that may work is to cut the deck planks to the length you want, calk and treenail before fitting. When fitting, glue an additional length of plank under the point where your two planks join to support the joints. This may eliminate the need for the plywood deck altogether. Your decks may not be as strong so would suggest doing some test pieces first to assess the overall strength of the joints. Personally though, I would stick to the instructions as the difference between pencilling in the joints and treenails and your desired method really is negligible..... .. Hope this helps... Regards Alan
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/05/2014 Posts: 912 Points: 2,773 Location: East Sussex UK
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Gandale wrote:Gibbo wrote:Gandale wrote:Hi Gibbo, I think I see what you are hoping to achieve and why. If you are doing the version with the cutout then can see why you would want to plank that area instead of pencilling in the decking lines however, if you are doing the build without the cutout then there isn't much of your decking that will be visible. Also, there isn't any reason to do the same for any of the other decks as you lay the deck planks directly onto the deck supports themselves rather than onto a plywood platform. Therefore from here on I would agree with Stevie, follow the build instructions for laying the next decks.... .. Hope this helps.. Regards Alan Hi Alan, Thanks for getting back to me, i am not going with the cut-out version, i have just replied to Steve, if you can take a look at that reply and get back to me i would very much appreciate it. Thanks Alan Paul Hi Gibbo, things are clearer now as to what you are hoping to achieve and how. As long as your overall finished deck height remains unchanged then it should be achievable without creating problems further down the line. As for the balsa supports, you could consider using pillars to support the decks where they may be seen through the companionways. The other thing that may work is to cut the deck planks to the length you want, calk and treenail before fitting. When fitting, glue an additional length of plank under the point where your two planks join to support the joints. This may eliminate the need for the plywood deck altogether. Your decks may not be as strong so would suggest doing some test pieces first to assess the overall strength of the joints. Personally though, I would stick to the instructions as the difference between pencilling in the joints and treenails and your desired method really is negligible..... .. Hope this helps... Regards Alan Thank you Alan, It's all good food for thought, some nice ideas there, i really appreciate your input and advice. Regards Paul Building: DelPrado HMS Victory. Building: DeAgostini Sovereign Of The Seas.
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