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Jase's beginners ship building tutorial. HM Schooner Pickle

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jase

#41 Posted : 07 August 2015 19:08:14

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Well the build diary will still be here when you manage to get it.

Many thanks for the kind words

Jase

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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arek

#42 Posted : 08 August 2015 14:11:13

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Many thanks for doing that Jase!
Your video tutorial is exactly what I was looking for as I shortly should move to this part in my San Francisco II build.
Keep them videos coming!!!

Current build - San Francisco II
Collecting - Vasa

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jase

#43 Posted : 08 August 2015 15:14:14

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arek wrote:

Many thanks for doing that Jase!
Your video tutorial is exactly what I was looking for as I shortly should move to this part in my San Francisco II build.
Keep them videos coming!!!

I will certainly do some videoes around the planking. Your San Fran is single planked with a hard wood sonit needs to be spot on first time, take it slowly.

Thanks for looking in and the support

Jase

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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jonny7england

#44 Posted : 08 August 2015 15:52:28

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Great work Jase...Simple, straight forewad and easy to follow...Perfect for the newbies amongst us...And, of course, some of us olden's can learn a thing or two too!!...
LOL

Avidly watchin with great interest!!
Wink

Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...

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jase

#45 Posted : 08 August 2015 21:50:54

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jonny7england wrote:

Great work Jase...Simple, straight forewad and easy to follow...Perfect for the newbies amongst us...And, of course, some of us olden's can learn a thing or two too!!...
LOL

Avidly watchin with great interest!!
Wink

Hi matey. I hope people find it helpful, but it is just my way of working. the Videos certainly are helpful media.

Glad your enjoying it, thanks for following and the kind words.

Jase

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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jase

#46 Posted : 16 August 2015 10:13:48

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Fitting the Gunport patterns.

Gunport patterns are an increasingly popular method of cutting gunports in recent kits. it helps get the gunport perfectly aligned and reduced construction time on the traditional mark out and cut out method.

The two gunport patterns should be removed and cleaned up as we have described before. we then need to form these to shape before fitting. fitting these correctly is absolutely critical to the rest of the build, if they are not correct you will have other fit issues occurring all through the build.

Forming the bow curve. There are many ways to do this and many different tools. I have found when bending larger pieces that holding them to some sort of former works best. I will be using a purpose made tool but will describe an alternative method. This is the tool I will be using.

All methods begin with soaking the part in hot water. The part needs to be soaked up to the first fully cut gunport (gunport 3) for about 20 mins.

While the part soaks set your plank bending tool up ready to go. if you do not have tool for this you can simply hold the part to a cylindrical object such as a soup can using elastic bands, this is just to form the initial curve. Once the part is soaked for 20 mins form the part. leave the part on the former until it is almost dry.

Once the part is almost dry remove it from the former. If it springs back to being straight put it back on the former until it holds its curve. If it is holding its curve, even with a little relaxing, then we are ready for final forming.

The best way to get the exact curve we need is to form it where it will sit. take the part and place it on the hull as it will be finally fitted. hold it in place using clamps, i have used pegs and bulldog clips adapted to the job.

Once the part is filly dry it should hold its shape which will make installing the part much easier. To fit the part follow the instructions carefully paying attention to the relationship between the top of the part and the rib tops. Remember that the gunport pattern follows the top of the ribs and not the top of the pattern former. sand the front edge of the gunport pattern so it sits flush with the stem. dry fit the part and mark the bottom edge of the part on each rib as a guide for the adhesive.
Run a bead of glue on each rib above the pencil mark and carefully clamp your part in place. To secure the part you may need to pin it in place to. to do this drill a 0.5mm pilot hole through the part into the rib and then push a pin in using a pin pusher or micro hammer, leave 2-3mm of the pin out for removing the pin later.

I found I only needed to pin along the bow former length. the rib ply is very hard so take care, I did break a drill bitt Blink

leave the part to fully cure for 24 hours.

Next up will be fitting the first two planks and an easy and quick method of plank bending that requires no tools BigGrin

all comments welcome

Jase

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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Gandale

#47 Posted : 16 August 2015 10:41:03

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Great work Jase and some really nice techniques being shown.... very well done.... Cool

Regards

Alan

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davetwin

#48 Posted : 16 August 2015 13:35:18

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Great update Jase.

I think it really helps to see all these techniques put in to pictures rather than just read about them, much easier to pick up and follow. Looking forward to your next update Cool

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jase

#49 Posted : 16 August 2015 15:54:12

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Thanks both. I agree reading it and seeing it are two different things. i think the video helps too

jase

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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jase

#50 Posted : 19 August 2015 23:04:59

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Planking the hull,

Having now faired the hull and added the gunport pattern we are ready to do the first layer of planking.
This can be quite daunting the first time you tackle planking a hull and it is as easy to make a mistakes it is to get it right. This kit gives the novice a head start as the planks follow the line of the gunport pattern initially, however, the instructions, despite being comprehensive, still leaves a lot to the imagination and I hope I can simplify this with the combination of video and pics that follow.

The following video will take you through laying the first three planking strips. The video also demonstrates a quick simple and tool free way of forming the planks to shape to help speed up construction. Note I have not used the method described in the instructions.

https://youtu.be/FQQNlNPw1J8

The method described in the video above should be applied through the rest of the planking process. Remember that the golden rule is let the planks fall naturally and do not force the shape. Forcing the planks to conform will lead to them bulging between ribs as they try and twist away. don't worry if your plank fall differs from mine; there are many reasons why this may be the case. As this is the first layer and it will be sanded and filled and then covered up BigGrin

we don't need to worry to much.

The following is a quick walk through of my planking for reference.

I found that plank 4 was the last plank I could lay from stem to stern. once the planks start to naturally overlap at the bow I cut them to shape as described in the video for tapering.

Also it is much easer to trim each plank after it has been laid so it does not get in the way

Although I got my first gap at the point the instructions suggested I would, my other gaps ran slightly differently. Note once the planking begins to work up along the stern post edge you need to dry fit the plank mark the starn post position with a pencil and trim the plank to the exact length.

With three planks left to lay I jumped to the last plank that butts up to the false keel. it is easer to fill the remaining gap with cut to shape planks than to try and trim a whole plank lengthwise, which would happen if you did the false keel plank last.

Finally use your off cuts to form wedges to fill the gaps. You may find the part of the plank removed when tapering at the bow just fits your needs at the stern.
[imghttp://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy1/jase1970_2010/jase1970_2010112/IMG_1076.jpg][/img]

With the first layer of planking under our belt we can look to adding the stern former and preparing the hull for the second layer of planking. the second layer is a hard wood and presents some different challenges to the first layer.

All comments, questions and observations welcome as always.

Jase

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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greyhawk

#51 Posted : 19 August 2015 23:30:25

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great video. Very well done.

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davetwin

#52 Posted : 19 August 2015 23:40:09

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Another great update to your tutorial Jase! I like the kettle method, I have been soaking in hot water but think using the kettle may be a bit easier BigGrin

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jase

#53 Posted : 19 August 2015 23:41:54

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greyhawk wrote:

great video. Very well done.

May thanks for viewing the video, I hope people find it useful.

Jase

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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jase

#54 Posted : 19 August 2015 23:45:35

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davetwin wrote:

Another great update to your tutorial Jase! I like the kettle method, I have been soaking in hot water but think using the kettle may be a bit easier BigGrin

Thanks for looking in BigGrin

you will find this method quicker but on thicker planks and harder woods it can be less effective. but with lime and box it is a big time saver.

Jase

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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greyhawk

#55 Posted : 20 August 2015 00:02:32

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davetwin wrote:

Another great update to your tutorial Jase! I like the kettle method, I have been soaking in hot water but think using the kettle may be a bit easier BigGrin

Tried both, the kettle definitely wins.

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daffy09

#56 Posted : 20 August 2015 12:45:31

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Another super tutorial Jase, clear and well explained. Like the kettle idea, that speeds up the job immensely. Well done, this is going to be so much help to us 'newbies'. Look forward to the next tutorial.
Thank you and happy building.
David

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jase

#57 Posted : 20 August 2015 22:25:30

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daffy09 wrote:

Thanks for looking in Dave and for the kind comments glad your enjoying the build

Jase

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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jase

#58 Posted : 30 August 2015 23:41:19

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Preparing for second planking.

Ok we are now at the stage when we have to sand the hull. start by using a corse sand paper to remove any lumps unevan planks etc. only a light sanding as we do not want to risk sanding through the relatively think planking strips.

Once this is done we can fill any gaps or dips in the planking. I won't recommend a filler, as there are many brands and i haven't tried them all! I use a light quick drying filler.
Once the filler is dry use a medium grit sandpaper to obtain a smooth hull. The objective is to have the hull the correct shape and smooth enough for the second layer of planking to sit properly. you don't need to worry about perfectly smooth as in having some scratch marks from the corse sand paper. you can repeat the filling and sanding step as often as is needed but beware not to sand through the planks. The whole process may take several hours all in all.

whilst your filler is drying, or if you need to give your are a rest, build up the building cradle.

When you are happy with the hull sanding we turn our attention to the stern. the 2 stern extension pieces need to be cut out and cleaned up as does the stern counter.

Soak the stern counter in warm water for at least 30 mins. while it soaks the two stern extensions can be added. They need to be perfectly straight to insure there are no fit issues at a later date. To do this ensure they are exactly 8mm apart.

Once the stern extensions are set you can test fit the stern counter. this part has to form a curve but we don't need to pre form it. run a bead of glue along all 4 extensions then place the part in position so that it overhangs by 2mm aprox. then nail the part into place and allow the part to hourly dry and the glue to set. take care this is a thin part and I actually managed to break it under the force of nailing.

This model comes with copper plates for the hull however the second layer of planking is walnut and so can be displayed showing the dark wood without the copper plates. If you are choosing to display the ship without the copper plates then a good tip is to take some time to pair planks. The planks for the second layer will have a variety of shades. to help keep dimity and have a nice even look to the planking you should pair planks of the same shade, one for each side of the hull.

Up next, second planking.

All comments and thoughts welcome.

Jase

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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Gandale

#59 Posted : 31 August 2015 00:39:08

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Very nice and detailed work Jase, a pleasure to see and follow.... Cool

Regards

Alan

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stevie_o

#60 Posted : 31 August 2015 00:44:33

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Loving the effort going in to this to make it informative and useful to all builders, nice work BigGrin

Steve

Building - DeAgostini Santisima Trinidad, Panart 1/16 scale armed launch
Built -De-Agostini HMS Victory,Airfix 1/12 Scale Bentley Blower, "The Orca" from the Jaws Movie, Tamiya 1/35 Quad Guntractor, Tamiya 1/35 25pdr Field Gun, Jaws "Final Showdown" Sculpt, Academy Stuart M3 Honey Tank, Airfix 1/350 HMS Illustrious, Emhar 1/35 scale MKIV Tank

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ModelSpace » Other Ships » Other Ship & Submersible Build Diaries » Members Ship & Submersible Build Diaries » Jase's beginners ship building tutorial. HM Schooner Pickle

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