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2015 -- Gauner's HMS Victory -- Diary Options
z8000783
#41 Posted : 26 August 2015 07:38:28

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Not sure which issue or instruction you are referring to but normally if it says not to paint something it's because something else will need to be glued to it later.

Do you have the issue number? Do you mean here?

Gun deck
Gandale
#42 Posted : 26 August 2015 08:52:30

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Hi JG, now that does look a lot better and am pleased your measurments all check out. Double checking is always good as it goes a long way to eliminating problems further into the build. We avoid painting the edges to ensure better glue adhesion for other parts being fitted so don't apply paint to the deck edges, ribs edges or dummy tops of the dummy cannon supports.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Alan
Gauncer
#43 Posted : 26 August 2015 17:22:16

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I have a little more work to do before I get to fairing of the hull, but I alway get nervous before I do any fairing.

The HMS Victory will be my 3rd time fairing, and by far the biggest and on real plywood not balsa at that.

I wanted to get your guys option. I have seen people fill the there ships hull on the bow and stern with balsa.
Here is an sample from user George1
What do you guys think of this technique? I was thinking just doing my bow and stern.


All my best,

JG
In the workshop: HMS Victory
Finished builds: Providence Whaleboat
stevie_o
#44 Posted : 26 August 2015 18:25:25

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Filling the gaps with balsa is a great idea and will make the planking so much easier, specially at the bow and stern - if it makes you feel more at ease about the faring and planking by having the infills then go for itBigGrin

Steve
arpurchase
#45 Posted : 26 August 2015 19:33:44

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BigGrin I would say the same they help when planking and to get the correct bevel from former to former in these area'sCool
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davetwin
#46 Posted : 26 August 2015 20:11:17

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Glad you got it all sorted, I know first hand the feeling of something not being quite right. That's the beauty of this forum you post the issue and soon enough everyone is rallying round with fixes which enables you to get back with the build in no time at all Cool
Gauncer
#47 Posted : 08 September 2015 23:19:39

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Thank for the advice and support super helpful everyone.

Well I added some balsa to the stern and bow, started fairing the hull. I am not finished with the fairing I wanted to make sure all the planks will flow across nicely.

I am not sure about the stern up top were it get tight with a curve (marked in red on a photo).
I wonder if should I remove some of the balsa there at the top and just let the frames in that area hold the timber?
As seen here...

I may be over thinking it. Anyhow here is what I have so far.

Cheers.

JG
Gauncer attached the following image(s):
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In the workshop: HMS Victory
Finished builds: Providence Whaleboat
stevie_o
#48 Posted : 09 September 2015 00:20:35

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Your infills look fine and it's bound to make like easier when it's time to plank.
As long as there is a smooth curve around the bow / stern then all is ok - if you are in any doubt then just lay a plank around the frames and infills to check the contact areaBigGrin

Steve
Gandale
#49 Posted : 09 September 2015 00:44:32

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All looking good so far JG, not much to fair now and then you'll be close to laying your first plank..... Very nice work, keep the pics coming......Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
Gauncer
#50 Posted : 09 September 2015 02:55:34

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Update on the launch. Still needs the details but I am happy.
Gauncer attached the following image(s):
image.jpg
In the workshop: HMS Victory
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Martyn Ingram
#51 Posted : 09 September 2015 08:32:21

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BigGrin Looking good JG very neatCool

Rgd Martyn
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ian smith
#52 Posted : 09 September 2015 14:44:31

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Hi JG.
Launch looks very nice. look forward to seeing your progress Ian Cool BigGrin
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Finished Builds Corel HMS Victory cross section.
Gauncer
#53 Posted : 09 September 2015 17:02:19

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Thank Ian,Martyn, Gandale ,Arpurchase davetwin, and Stevie_O for checking in and checking it out.

Here are some more picks of my launch. Really enjoying how it is turning out.

Enjoy.

-Jordan
Gauncer attached the following image(s):
The Launch.jpg
In the workshop: HMS Victory
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Hans
#54 Posted : 10 September 2015 13:29:50

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Coming along very nicely there Jordan. Well done. Brings back some good and sweaty memories.
Rgds, Hans
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Gauncer
#55 Posted : 21 September 2015 23:59:25

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Chamfering Jig.

What up guys? It has been slow going on the HMS Victory. Wife a had back surgery and she come first Love.

But I have been vigorous living through other diary build and planing a head.

I love a good jig. I knew there would be some chamfering to come and I didi not want to hand sand or plan the edges. So I though about it and decided to make a Chamfering Jig.

Pictures below, super happy.

PS Wife is doing vary well and we are super happy.

Cheers and looking forward to seeing you all out on the forum.

JG
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In the workshop: HMS Victory
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Gandale
#56 Posted : 22 September 2015 00:17:12

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Hi JG, great looking jig and well thought out... Pleased to hear your good lady is recovering well, hope she makes a full recovery soon....Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
Gauncer
#57 Posted : 05 October 2015 18:52:55

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Hi everyone, back to working on the Victory vary happy to say.

I have chamfered some packs of timber, have planed out my workflow and started the first 4 rows of planking.

I am totally new to modeling and ship building. For some of your pros there this is old hat info but this might be helpful form the newbs out there.

I have found some techniques that were completely helpful and cut down on any frustration.

1) Micro Size Binder Clips: help held the planks in place while I check and glued/pined.
http://www.amazon.com/dp...qid=1444063059&sr=0

2) Gel Control super glue (will not run): just a dab at point of contact on bulkhead. The glue has a nice slow dry time to work with and hold tight.
http://www.amazon.com/Lo...mp;keywords=loctite+gel

3) I used the wood glue for point of contact on the timber between the bulkhead.

4) Soak timbers in hot water made them super easy to bend with the hot plank bender when needed.

5) My last note is I decided to cut each end of the each timber at a 45 degree angle for cleaner line when they butt up to each other. I did not like how the 90 degree angle looked. By deciding to do the 45 I found my timber "locked" in place when placing them down and I did not have to drill and put in 2 nails. Time saver. At the end I just used one nail for it would go through each 45 degree end. It nails in nice and clean and looks great.

Thanks for looking and if you have in other insight and advice please share.

Thank you .

-Jordan
Gauncer attached the following image(s):
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In the workshop: HMS Victory
Finished builds: Providence Whaleboat
arpurchase
#58 Posted : 05 October 2015 19:22:48

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BigGrin A very nice start and doing goodCool
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Gandale
#59 Posted : 05 October 2015 23:56:54

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Lovely work Jordan and well done to you... Cool Cool .. Personally, I wouldn't use superglue to attach the planks to the ribs, may be a strong bond to begin with but I'd be worried the planks may break free from the ribs sometime in the future. I find PVA, clips or pins work very well and provide a more secure bond... Of course, the use of PVA for planking is just my personal choice....Cool Cool .. Keep the pics coming... Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
Gauncer
#60 Posted : 06 October 2015 00:17:49

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Thanks Arpuchase, and Alan.

Alan that is good to know about the superglue. I am using the suppled brads and clipping the heads off.

I would like to varnish the hull at the end of the day, but I might paint as well. I have not fully committed to either one.

I guess it is going to depend if I have a lot of mistakes. Too mistake = paint it. Nice wood work = varnish.

In the workshop: HMS Victory
Finished builds: Providence Whaleboat
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