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sanding stern Options
timebob
#1 Posted : 18 September 2010 12:43:07

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hi all shipmates anyone tell me how much more needs to come off if any
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gaffa1963
#2 Posted : 18 September 2010 15:25:51

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If you look at tomicks build you sand back to the false keel i am not upto thier at the moment
and waiting to see how the other builders get on

Dave
benny
#3 Posted : 18 September 2010 15:41:21

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yes sand back to the false keel so its paralel..i used a rasp and worked out fine
cheers benny
gaffa1963
#4 Posted : 18 September 2010 18:30:49

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I was looking at how it was done in the magazine and it looks like the modeler is using a
stanley surform i am thinking of getting one for doing the hull any feedback for and agianst
would be appreciated before i go out and spend more money on tools

Dave
Tomick
#5 Posted : 18 September 2010 18:53:47

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I wouldn't use a surform, you'll end up with serious damage to the frame edges Blink

Use a long block with sand paper fixed to it or a wide long file/rasp, the main thing is that it spans a few frames and is not so course that it rips the hell out of the wood.
Lonestar Spirit
#6 Posted : 18 September 2010 19:27:35

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I agree with Tomick on this, and I speak from experience Blushing due to my impatience, it cost me quite abit of money Bored it's better to take small amounts off while constantly checking.
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gaffa1963
#7 Posted : 18 September 2010 22:41:41

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ok thanks for the info prob go down the sandpaper route or check the prices for a rasp

dave
ajbird74
#8 Posted : 19 September 2010 12:29:53

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gaffa1963 wrote:
ok thanks for the info prob go down the sandpaper route or check the prices for a rasp

dave


Gaffa1963

Have a look at the following item code on eBay. Seems like a fairly good set of wood files.

130401996103

Kind regards

Anthony
gaffa1963
#9 Posted : 19 September 2010 16:04:26

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cheers mate will have a look
yorkieboy1
#10 Posted : 19 September 2010 16:26:55

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hi gaffa1963
during the fairing Ifound sanding sticks and good quality sand paper were the answer . The sticks have diferent grades of abrasive on and providing you take your time you can get a near perfect finish . They are available at cornwall model boats and when I got mine they were about a fiver and worth every penny Ifaired the hull of titanic 6foot long in no time at all .hope this helps
RussG
#11 Posted : 23 September 2010 03:29:56

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Tomick wrote:
I wouldn't use a surform, you'll end up with serious damage to the frame edges Blink

Use a long block with sand paper fixed to it or a wide long file/rasp, the main thing is that it spans a few frames and is not so course that it rips the hell out of the wood.


Thanks for that MR T! I ordered one yesterday as it was in the magazine, Talk about product placement!!!!! lol
Happy Building, Russ

On the workbench: My Victory Build Diary - Victory Cross Section Build Diary - Black Pearl Build Diary

Under the Bench: Millenium Falcon, Black Pearl x 2, Coral Victory Cross Section, De Lorean

gaffa1963
#12 Posted : 23 September 2010 16:47:37

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i seem to be doing ok fairing the hull with sanpaper and a wood file i borrowed from my
neighbour but thanks for the tips

Dave
snowtiger
#13 Posted : 23 September 2010 16:59:24

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Got to admit i cheated on the sanding ....i got fed up and a knackerd arm ...soooo...out came the eletric sander...Blushing .....then finished with med then fine sand paper....looks good..BigGrin
One eye
#14 Posted : 24 September 2010 00:58:07

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Hi guys

When 'fairing' my last Victory which had 6mm framework, I used a tip from a book by Keith Julier (may have got the name mispelt - apologies).

I used carpenters glue to fix medium grade sandpaper to a hull plank, of the same size that I was fixing. Hardwood; 6mm x 2mm. I glued it the full length of the plank and used scissors to trim to the right width. Using the plank as a gauge, I could also use it to sand down to the ideal profile, where necessary, at the same time. Obviously, the big corners can be done neanderthal style, but for the final finish this method was spot on.

Just an insight.

Fair well everyone.

See ya. Wink
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