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There are alot of lights and I would of thought on a scale model it might be to much, unless you get the right intensity of the LEDs. Also I would wait and see whether there is space inside for all the extra wiring and lights. I have seen some excellent builds on the hold area were people have extended with extra parts and unfortunately I can issues that these won't fit in the falcon. I'm not being negative just practical at this stage of the build, another year to go yet, I won't be painting mine until she is fully built. Darren
Have an AWSOME day and may the Force be with you always 😉 Building: Millennium Falcon https://forum.model-spac...sts&t=14381&p=7 - Building: BTTF Delorean - Building: Dom's Dodge Charger - Building : X-Wing https://forum.model-spac...aspx?g=posts&t=34899
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That's the other thing. Scale shouldn't be an issue because I'd just drill holes the correct scale, then I'd have to build a slight cylinder inside because the lights are not flush, then just diffuse them to adjust brightness, but ALSO as you said spudtrooper37, on a scale model, I just don't know if it'll be too much. Doing the little red running lights with fiber is no problem and shouldn't look odd. [quote=croome] Here are the official Haynes Millennium Falcon Downloads with High Res PDFs: https://haynes.co.uk/mic...iumfalcon/downloads.htm
https://haynes.co.uk/mic...n/PDFs/H5096spread5.pdf
https://haynes.co.uk/mic...n/PDFs/H5096spread6.pdf[/quote] And thanks for the .pdf croome. I have the real book, but clean digital files are nice also since I use my tablet a lot for reference while working on pieces.
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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It's a tough decision Colson, take a look at my thread here; http://forum.model-space...sts&t=14302&p=5
Where I have added them to the Finemolds kit, it is a hell of a lot of work. This is all going to be powered of an 18v mains power pack.
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 Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2015 Posts: 28 Points: 76 Location: Las Vegas
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Colson. go onto ebay and buy the different size pre-wired SMD LED's, get 3 different sizes of clear acrylic rod as lenses,(glue the led to one end, stick the other end out of the shell, paint everything inside with a coat of black). Then use one little dc-dc adjustable buck board to lower the voltage to 2.0-3.0V (no resistsors for every LED) and wire all the LEDs it parallel as a loop around the ship. No big deal.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/12/2015 Posts: 40 Points: 120 Location: South Dakota
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I'd love to see you do it. 14 red lights? Where did you find the layout for the red lights? I don't see them on this guide.
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Vex wrote:I'd love to see you do it. 14 red lights? Where did you find the layout for the red lights? I don't see them on this guide. That's from taking still frames from ESB. I have many screen grabs I've done for reference. Can't post them here because of copyright issues. But they're there. 8 red lights in the front half, 2 red lights above the landing ramp and 4 more red lights in the rear half of the ship.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
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colson wrote:
That's from taking still frames from ESB. I have many screen grabs I've done for reference. Can't post them here because of copyright issues. But they're there. 8 red lights in the front half, 2 red lights above the landing ramp and 4 more red lights in the rear half of the ship.
How about the two on the cockpit?
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Vex wrote:colson wrote:
That's from taking still frames from ESB. I have many screen grabs I've done for reference. Can't post them here because of copyright issues. But they're there. 8 red lights in the front half, 2 red lights above the landing ramp and 4 more red lights in the rear half of the ship.
How about the two on the cockpit? Yea, I forgot about those. There's 2 on the side of the cockpit, and also 2 on the front of the mandibles, next to the headlights.
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2015 Posts: 28 Points: 76 Location: Las Vegas
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I wish I new how to post a diagram, but I have the complete lighting and marker light layout in JPG. Here it is at PhotoBucket. It is not exact on the landing lights, which I would follow Haynes, but it does locate the red markers correctly and the belly gun. Falcon Exterior Lighting Plan
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Some amazing research you falcon builders are going - a real credit to you. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Well, I'm certainly thinking about doing all the lights. Not like there isn't time huh?
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
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Automating the belly gun is going to be the challenge. The up, down and turn, not so much, but the slide flush door assembly is going to be one heck of a challenge. The shape ways belly gun is pre-drilled for fiber and has a long enough shaft to make the up, down, turn work well.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
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Supercoolin wrote:Colson. go onto ebay and buy the different size pre-wired SMD LED's, get 3 different sizes of clear acrylic rod as lenses,(glue the led to one end, stick the other end out of the shell, paint everything inside with a coat of black). Then use one little dc-dc adjustable buck board to lower the voltage to 2.0-3.0V (no resistsors for every LED) and wire all the LEDs it parallel as a loop around the ship. No big deal. I could also do 3-4 LEDs in series and then those groups in parallel, avoiding needing a buck converter I suppose. I'll have to think about it. Looking at the photos from the Haynes manual, you can see the lights are recessed, which would'nt quite work for acrylic rods, but I'll have to think about all this.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/12/2015 Posts: 40 Points: 120 Location: South Dakota
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Supercoolin wrote:I wish I new how to post a diagram, but I have the complete lighting and marker light layout in JPG. Here it is at PhotoBucket. It is not exact on the landing lights, which I would follow Haynes, but it does locate the red markers correctly and the belly gun.
 It's not 100% accurate but it's the best I've found too. Also, where has anyone seen lights between the inner mandibles on the front? Is there a source for that?
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Vex wrote:[quote=Supercoolin]Also, where has anyone seen lights between the inner mandibles on the front? Is there a source for that? Agreed. I have not seen any white lights in the films in the inner section between the mandibles.
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2015 Posts: 28 Points: 76 Location: Las Vegas
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Colson, here is a sketch of an old trick to make simulated can lights that provide that focused spot of light light you see on all the screen shots of the Falcon with the landing lights on (Scale doll houses). Just a plain old round LED will have to bright of a light and the light will "scatter" all directions. About 3/8" length of tube and a 1/4" length of acrylic rod with the SMD glued to the top. The higher the grit of sand paper to smooth the ends of the acrylic round will control light intensity and brightness. Polish the end with 2500 grit and it is a focused beam of light. Once it is all assembled, paint all of it inside with a couple coats of flat black to light block the inside. I am using 3/16" , 1/4" and 5/16" diameter acrylic rod for my three different sizes like shown on the Haynes Manual.
Simulated Can Light
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
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Supercoolin wrote:Colson, here is a sketch of an old trick to make simulated can lights that provide that focused spot of light light you see on all the screen shots of the Falcon with the landing lights on (Scale doll houses). Just a plain old round LED will have to bright of a light and the light will "scatter" all directions. About 3/8" length of tube and a 1/4" length of acrylic rod with the SMD glued to the top. The higher the grit of sand paper to smooth the ends of the acrylic round will control light intensity and brightness. Polish the end with 2500 grit and it is a focused beam of light. Once it is all assembled, paint all of it inside with a couple coats of flat black to light block the inside. I am using 3/16" , 1/4" and 5/16" diameter acrylic rod for my three different sizes like shown on the Haynes Manual. Yes, that's essentially what I was thinking of doing. A styrene tube and the rod could be placed inside just slightly set back so the flood lights look recessed. I think I probably will be doing this. Just gotta decide on what I feel is the correct diameter of the lights based on the model scale and go from there. I've already got SMD LEDs on order.
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As you know I have started putting the red lighting in, on the bottom hull section. I have been using 2mm fiber optic cable, it can be bent at different angles so it can run flush with the underside of the panels to an LED. I use 4 fibers to 1 5mm Red LED if that helps.
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