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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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so i been thinking about making the rudder work with the wheel.
this would be a nice little touch, and from following the build im guessing that its not a feature incorporated to the build, shouldnt be to difficult to do eith, the "ropes" can be router internally by using a hand drill and 2mm bit and a 1mm bit along with picture hanging stiff wire. you can make small eyelets with the wire, fix in place with using a 1mm hole and bending it and super glue and running the ropes through the 2mm holes.
should work shouldnt it?
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 Rank: Amateur level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/06/2010 Posts: 47 Points: 144 Location: Northfleet
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Hey, Secretreeve. It may be possible, but there is no way i could get my tiny little mitts through the eventual rigging; under the poop deck; behind the binnacle that we will no doubt receive; and anywhere near the wheel. Besides, Mine is going to be static - hopefully. Could be a nice touch with some RC. When you dust her, she may waggle her tail... See ya.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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you do have a point, the internal roping would be easy, but then with tweezers and glue might not be as tough as your thinking.
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 Rank: Amateur level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/06/2010 Posts: 47 Points: 144 Location: Northfleet
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Apologies. I am certain it can work, and don't doubt that you could do it. If I were to do it, I would use the original design with the back up pully system. I just can't see the point  , as all the workings will be invisible, and how do you move the Wheel. Not really practical I think. I will agree that the fact I had done it would be reward enough, but with all the other additional ideas surfacing on this forum, I for one have too many options to consider. Yours is definately an engineering micro project; I don't think I could include it on my 'Things to do' list.  Nice touch though; if you can perfect it. In the interim, I am a rather mellow, not in your face type of chap, but with all this crap that is going on, wonder as to whether two obviously intelligent chaps like you and Magpie cant sort out your 'virtual' differences amicably. I know nothing about either of you, other than the posts (which can be like Text messages - don't necessarily come across as they were meant), but I for one hold no malice towards intelligent discussion, so long as both parties treat each other with respect, not only for the opinion, but also for their feelings. It takes a big man to admit his errors/mistakes - it takes a great man to offer a hand of peace in times of conflict. Nuff said. See ya.
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/06/2010 Posts: 242 Points: 720
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One eye wrote:Apologies. I am certain it can work, and don't doubt that you could do it. If I were to do it, I would use the original design with the back up pully system. I just can't see the point  , as all the workings will be invisible, and how do you move the Wheel. Not really practical I think. I will agree that the fact I had done it would be reward enough, but with all the other additional ideas surfacing on this forum, I for one have too many options to consider. Yours is definately an engineering micro project; I don't think I could include it on my 'Things to do' list.  Nice touch though; if you can perfect it. In the interim, I am a rather mellow, not in your face type of chap, but with all this crap that is going on, wonder as to whether two obviously intelligent chaps like you and Magpie cant sort out your 'virtual' differences amicably. I know nothing about either of you, other than the posts (which can be like Text messages - don't necessarily come across as they were meant), but I for one hold no malice towards intelligent discussion, so long as both parties treat each other with respect, not only for the opinion, but also for their feelings. It takes a big man to admit his errors/mistakes - it takes a great man to offer a hand of peace in times of conflict. Nuff said. See ya. Aye Aye one eye! well said mate
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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trueer words couldnt be spoken.
as for moving the wheel again you have a magnificent point i failed to think of. probably move the wheel from the rudder lol. i will work with the model to see how easily it can be done.
if anyone knows between which frames the wheel will sit that would help a great deal. and i will post up on here progress of each stage of this little addition.
there are some wonderful ideas for this model coming to the surface and its always enjoyable reading them and i have thought of doing some myself. but we'll see how things go in the mean time.
oh and about the workings being hidden, one side of my victory will be facing a wall all the time, and ahve a display case over it, BUT i could try and make a removable hatch in the planking on the wall side that would allow you to see how the ropework moves through.
and you have nothing to applogise for, i appreciated your comments, they made me think a little harder into it and review some images i could find to figure out the smaller things
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 Rank: Amateur level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/06/2010 Posts: 47 Points: 144 Location: Northfleet
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I don't have the Lady in front of me, but the wheel is set just under the Poop deck. In which case this should be about the second highest rib back; ie rib 27ish - just in front of the Mizzen mast. An additional 'Cutaway' is also another intresting idea. The problem with this (I think) is the chainplates which brace the shrouds via channels, spring off the outer hull in positions which may clash with a viewing point of any working rudder gear you may wish to display. Then again, maybe not. Also, the side galleries may interfer with the idea - and I would not leave one side of those off for the sake of Rudder Control display. I do however like the idea of having the Rudder control on display, but this may require a lot of 'bulkhead/rib' removal to get the full picture. A lot more thought needed. But could be worth it. See Ya.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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you have a point, any display work would have to be done once that part of the hull and its "decorations" are completed. as for bulkhead/frame removal might not be so bad because it may only require one or two planks depth to view it all. after all the ropes from the rudder can come down towards the bottom of the keel as far as needed, even possibly below the waterline, this would of course interfear with any coppering but the coppering COULD potentialy act as a cover for the minor gap wich would be left as a result of being able to remove those particular plank sections.
god i love engineering theres so many possiblities and ideas to make things work hahaa
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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also dont need to remove the whole length of the planks, could have the hatch as an L shape
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 Rank: Amateur level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/06/2010 Posts: 47 Points: 144 Location: Northfleet
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Sorry Secretreeve. The Rudder was controlled from the top - ie above the waterline. In fact, if memory serves me right, this was actually at the rear end of the Lower Gun Deck. I would have to check though. This may change your plans a bit, Methinks. Anyway, top man. Read the 'other' post. See Ya.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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below the waterline was just an example of the depth you could take it, pointless as it would have to be routed back up again all the same lol
its nice to hav esomeone throw problems into the works cause it helps me cover all the angles, so cheers
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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i have thrown this together quickly last night. i will work with the rest of the rear ribs/frames and upload another pic or two with some cord running through them all. if you can see potential faults please mention them. that way i can think of a solution. the first fault i can see is the "rope" rubbing against the inside of the holes so i thought to work around this enlarging the holes big enough to fit some brass/copper rings that you use for making holes in belts, if you know the things i mean.   
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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okay so i worked on one side. i have overcome the rope rubbing making smaller eyelets out of picture hanging wire to fit the holes which where enlarged a small amount and this helps keep it all centered in the holes a bit more. i dont have the final rib frames yet but looking at the build log i will route the rope through rib 28 and 29 then direct it upwards between 29 and 30 where it can then be routed to where the rudder will be. should work and should be okay. picture time>    obvisouly they arent all lined up straight and perfect but i dont think they need to be as long as they arent all over the place. its quite small differences in alignment, a couple of mm at most so its not to bad. just the other side to do and next month with the rest of the rib frames i will have those to deal with and the remiander of the routing and of course, working it up through the decks. so it will be interesting to see how it all comes out.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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mmmmm watching this with interest!! Looking good so far!!
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Looks a top Idea, I was going to detail the inside of mine but once the deck went on I couldn't see any of it, also I am pants at electronics so putting LED's in is beyond me. The HMS Fly I am doing soon has a similar setup on the rudder.
Chris. On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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cheers fellas.
im going to increase the thinkness of the rib frames at 22 and 30 so that the planking has extra surface to stick to as i will be making a removable section for one side so that the routing can be seen as an additional personalisation to this ship. obviously only one side of each rib needs thickening out and only in the areas where the planking wont be going all the way across. im like 7 issues away from any planking so thats not an immediate concern. cant wait to get stuck into the rest of this build though.
i was thinking about doing the fly, but would rather do the pegasus if i could ever spell it right lol
also if any of the newer people to the craft wanted to do this, its easy and if you cant quite get the holes lined up enough, you can use some thin, flexible wire that can trave lthrough the rib holes for the majority.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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does anyone have detials with regards to the rope used on the ships wheel for the victory? i need to start mocking up some rope for it so the following information would be appreciated.
diamiter for this scale colour of rope how many ropes where used to twist into the main rope possibly link to some thread which would twist up into the closest possible match.
thanks in advance.
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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[quote=secretreeve]okay so i worked on one side.
i have overcome the rope rubbing making smaller eyelets out of picture hanging wire to fit the holes which where enlarged a small amount and this helps keep it all centered in the holes a bit more. i dont have the final rib frames yet but looking at the build log i will route the rope through rib 28 and 29 then direct it upwards between 29 and 30 where it can then be routed to where the rudder will be.
should work and should be okay. .......
Secretreeve,
Have you actually researched how the ships wheel is used to steer the ship?
You talk about the ropes being routed to where the rudder will be. The rudder is actually turned by the tiller in the gun room at the rear of the lower gun deck. The tiller is controlled via the steering gear which is connected to the ship's wheel. If you are going to attempt a cut-away you will need to model the interior of the gunroom, add a tiller to the head of the rudder stock and devise the steering rig which turns the end of the tiller in an arc. All this within the confines of the lower gun deck, I suspect that the scale of your model is not going to leave you with much space to work in.
I wouldn't like to give other inexperienced builders the impression that this is an easy exercise!
Good luck to you if you carry on!
Mike T
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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yeah when you add all that in its not so easy, but i meant that its easy to make the rudder work, not so much the cutaway section because that required a fair amount of modification to the ribs and planking.
but the simple working of the rudder from the wheel isnt so difficult.
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 Rank: Vice-Master      Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 507 Points: 1,571
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hope this helps willz attached the following image(s):
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