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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Pack 4 contains Stages 37-44
Stage 37 – Left rear wheel
Contains parts –
Left brake caliper
Left hub
Brake disc
Rear axle shaft
Nut
Driveshaft
The holes in the hub need to be tapped with the 2.3mm tap. Making sure the tap is set perfectly perpendicular to the first hole, turn it clockwise by one-and-a-half turns, maintaining an even pressure as you do so. Turn it anticlockwise to remove it, then repeat to tap the second hole.
Take the left rear brake caliper and locate the three small pins on the
back. Dab a small amount of multi-purpose adhesive onto each of these pins.
Insert the pins on the caliper into the holes in the caliper on the left hub then press the calipers together to secure them. The slot that separates them is where the brake disc will fit.
Familiarise yourself with the brake disc. The raised central section on the front of the part is higher than the one on the back.
Hold the left hub then line up the brake disc, slide its outer edge into the slot between the brake calipers. Now fit the raised central section on the back of the disc into the corresponding hole in the hub, so that the part is sitting flush with the hub.
Take the left rear wheel (Stage 19) and, making sure the brake disc
remains in position, insert the wheel’s shaft into the brake disc and hub. Press the wheel onto the hub and disc assembly, and rotate it a little until the hexagonal section of the shaft slots neatly into the correspondingly shaped hole in the disc. When correctly positioned, the wheel should be securely fitted and neatly aligned with the disc and the end of the wheel shaft should be visible in the centre of the hub.
Holding the wheel and hub in position, fit the rear axle shaft into the hole in the end of the wheel shaft, secure with a wheel nut and tighten with the cross wrench.
Once the wheel is secure, turn the assembly over again and line up the driveshaft to the hub, the hose should run downwards from the hub, and the silver circles on the driveshaft should face you. Fit the flat end of the drive shaft into the correspondingly shaped recess in the hub. Hold the parts in position and secure with two type P screws, tighten both screws alternately, a little at a time, to ensure an even and secure hold.
Stage complete.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 38 – Front suspension arms
Contains parts –
Front shock absorbers × 2
Left front upper arm
Right front upper arm
Left front lower arm
Right front lower arm
Identify the left and right front upper arms (upper suspension arms) by locating the ‘L’ and ‘R’ marks.
Lay the upper arms out on your work surface. You will see that their outer ends slope downwards slightly. This is the position in which the arms will be mounted on your model.
The ends marked ‘L’ and ‘R’ will be towards the front of the model when they have been fitted. It is important that you can identify each arm correctly.
Now familiarise yourself with the front lower arms in a similar way and according to the instructions.
Before you proceed with the build, you will need to check that the holes in the ends of each suspension arm are ready to take the screws used to hold the parts to the chassis. To do this, hold a type L screw with tweezers and check that it fits easily into the hole in the front of the arm from the inside, but that it does not fit easily the rear. This is because the holes should be of different sizes.
Stage Complete
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 39 – Right rear wheel
Contains parts –
Right hub
Right brake caliper
Brake disc
Driveshaft
Nut
Rear axle shaft
Hose connector
Radiator hose
The holes in the hub need to be tapped with the 2.3mm tap. Making sure the tap is set perfectly perpendicular to the first hole, turn it clockwise by one-and-a-half turns, maintaining an even pressure as you do so. Turn it anticlockwise to remove it, then repeat to tap the second hole.
Take the right rear brake caliper and locate the three small pins on the back. Dab a small amount of multi-purpose adhesive onto each of these pins.
Insert the pins on the caliper into the holes in the caliper on the right hub then press the calipers together to secure them. The slot that separates them is where the brake disc will fit.
Familiarise yourself with the brake disc. The raised central section on the front of the part is higher than the one on the back.
Hold the right hub then line up the brake disc, slide its outer edge into the slot between the brake calipers. Now fit the raised central section on the back of the disc into the corresponding hole in the hub, so that the part is sitting flush with the hub.
Take the right rear wheel (Stage 21) and, making sure the brake disc
remains in position, insert the wheel’s shaft into the brake disc and hub. Press the wheel onto the hub and disc assembly, and rotate it a little until the hexagonal section of the shaft slots neatly into the correspondingly shaped hole in the disc. When correctly positioned, the wheel should be securely fitted and neatly aligned with the disc, and the end of the wheel shaft should be visible in the centre of the hub.
Holding the wheel and hub in position, fit the rear axle shaft into the hole in the end of the wheel shaft, secure with a wheel nut and tighten with the cross wrench.
Once the wheel is secure, turn the assembly over again and line up the driveshaft to the hub, the hose should run upwards from the hub, and the silver circles on the driveshaft should face you. Fit the flat end of the drive shaft into the correspondingly shaped recess
the hub. Hold the parts in position and secure with two type P screws, tighten both screws alternately, a little at a time, to ensure an even and secure hold.
Stage complete
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 40 – Rear upper arms and shock absorbers
Contains Parts –
Rear shock absorbers × 2
Left rear upper arm
Right rear upper arm
Type V screws x 3
Type W screws × 5
Type X screws x 3
Type U screws × 5
(one of each type of
screw is a spare)
Pull the ends of the shock absorbers apart a few times to stretch out the springs a little before proceeding.
Lay the rear upper arms (upper suspension arms) out and locate the ‘R’ and ‘L’ marks that differentiate the left and right arms.
Now familiarise yourself with the tops and bottoms of the arms. There are two inward-facing protrusions near the outer ends of the arms. These are flat when viewed from above, but rounded when seen from below.
You will need to check the holes at the base of the rear suspension arms, as you did for the front ones. This time, use a type V screw, and check that it can fit through the rear side of the arm, but not the front (next to the ‘L’ and ‘R’ marks).
Fetch the chassis frame assembly (Stage 36) and line up the left rear
upper suspension arm. Line up the holes at either end of the part to those on the frame, making sure the L mark on the arm is facing you.
Hold the parts in position, then insert a type V screw through the rear end of the arm and into the frame, work the screw all the way through the holes in the frame, so that the end of it reaches the hole in the front end of the upper arm and gently tighten. The head of the screw should be flush with the side of the upper arm, and the arm should be able to pivot freely up and down. If it isn’t, slacken the screw a little.
Repeat to fit the right rear upper arm to the opposite side of the chassis frame.
Locate the hole in the chassis frame, above the left rear upper arm
– this is shaped into a hexagonal base, which will accommodate the
correspondingly shaped end of one of the rear shock absorbers.
Insert the end of the shock into the hole and secure with a type U screw.
Raise the upper arm so that the free end of the shock absorber fits into the gap in it. Hold the parts in place, and insert a type W screw into the hole in the suspension arm. Work the screw through the hole in the shock to the hole in the other side of the arm and tighten but make sure the parts still move.
Repeat for the right rear shock absorber.
Stage complete
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 41 – Rear lower arms
Contains parts -
Left rear lower arm
Right rear lower arm
Rear arm brackets × 4
Type S screws × 5
Type R screws × 5
Type H screws × 7
(one of each type of screw
is a spare)
Familiarise yourself with the suspension arm brackets. There is a raised rim to the threaded hole in the rear of the part, but the hole in the front is unthreaded and has a flat rim.
Use the long Phillips screwdriver to fit a type R screw into the inside of the central hole of one of the suspension arm brackets, Use your fingertip to hold the screw in place, with its tip protruding from the
bracket and the flat front side of the part facing you.
Take the chassis frame (Stage 40) and locate the section on the part’s left-hand side. Fit the suspension arm bracket and R-type screw into this, making sure that the flat front of the bracket is facing the front of the chassis.
Fit another type R screw to a suspension arm bracket, and fit this one in the hole at the rear of the chassis. Again, the flat front side of the bracket should face the front of the assembly.
Fit two more brackets to the other side of the chassis.
Differentiate between the left and right rear lower suspension arms by locating the ‘L’ and ‘R’ on each.
Take the left arm and line it up with the brackets on the left-hand side of the chassis. Make sure that the arm is facing the right way.
Use the long screwdriver to fit a type S screw into the front of the bracket. The screw should pass through the hole in the arm’s end and into the threaded hole at the rear of the bracket. Tighten the screw but make sure the arm can still pivot. Insert a type S screw into the rearmost bracket and tighten, the arm should be able to pivot up and down freely. If it cannot, loosen the screws a little at a time until it can.
Fit the right lower arm in the same way.
Stage complete.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 42 – Completing the rear suspension
Contains parts –
Steering tie rod
Thermo-control switch
Type AA screws × 3
Front stabiliser bar
Rear stabiliser bar
Type T screws × 5
Type Y screws × 3
Type Z screws × 5
(One of each type of
screw is a spare)
Familiarise yourself with the rear stabiliser bar. The central section will run across the chassis, with the two end sections pointing towards the rear of the model and curving upwards.
Position the chassis frame with its lefthand side facing you, and locate the gap highlighted above, just ahead of the rear suspension system. Thread the rear stabiliser bar through this gap from the left-hand side of the model. The end sections should curve upwards when the bar fitted. Be very careful when you fit the bar, because it is made of thin resin and is easily bent or broken.
Turn the assembly over and locate the tab on the left rear lower suspension arm. Insert a type H screw (Stage 41) into the hole in this tab then raise the curved end of the rear stabiliser bar to meet the screw and tighten enough to stop the stabiliser from rattling, repeat for the right hand side.
Now line up the left rear wheel and driveshaft (Stage 37) with the rear of the chassis assembly, with the brake hose running forwards and the driveshaft’s end next to the rectangular hole in the differential case. Insert the tip of the driveshaft into the rectangular hole in the differential case.
Turn the assembly over, and fit the divided end of the left lower
suspension arm onto the wheel hub, so that the two holes sandwich the bar of the hub and the screw holes align, then push a type Y screw all the way through the hole and tighten.
Now turn the assembly back over and raise the left rear upper arm a little, bring the top of the hub and the end of the upper arm together, so that the screw holes meet up and secure with a type X screw.
Hold the assembly and check that the wheel can move up and down freely, with the shock absorber’s spring compressing and extending smoothly.
Repeat the steps above for the right hand side then place your chassis onto your work surface, press down gently on the rear. The suspension should allow it to ‘bounce’ up and down.
Take the steering tie rod, and line up the thermo control switch to the pins then press the switch onto the pins.
A dab of multi-purpose adhesive on each pin will keep the part in place if the fit is not secure.
Now hold the chassis frame on its side, and line up one of the front shocks with the recess on the front left-hand side of the frame. Push the hexagonal end into the frame and secure with a type U screw.
Repeat for the right side of the frame.
Stage complete.stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 43 – Fitting the front suspension
Contains parts –
Chassis panel
Type N screws × 3
Type CC screws × 13
(one of each type of
screw is a spare)
Check the orientation of the left front upper arm (Stage 38): there is an ‘L’ marked on the side that faces the front of the chassis frame.
Line up the left front upper arm to the left front mount on the chassis frame, then push a type Z screw through the aligned holes, inserting it from the front of the chassis frame assembly - tighten the screw with the screwdriver, just enough to make the head flush with the side of the upper arm.
Now line up the left front lower arm to the underside of the chassis frame, making sure you have the arm the right way up. Insert a Z-type screw into the front hole of the lower arm and tighten gently.
Take the left front wheel and steering knuckle, and fit the lower tube of the knuckle through the hole in the end of the lower suspension arm.
Remove the hub nut from the outside of the wheel, and store it safely until it is needed. Holding the lower tube in position, fit the upper tube through the hole in the upper arm and secure with a type T screw.
Make sure the holes in the sides of the lower suspension arm and the bottom end of the shock are aligned, then insert a type W screw (Stage 40) into them from the front side. Gently tighten the screw. As with all the screws joining moving parts, this should not be overtightened, because that can both damage the parts and inhibit their movement.
Now set a type T screw into the hole in the top of the upper arm and tighten with the cross wrench. Turn the left front wheel from side to side a few times to ensure that the steering knuckle is able to pivot freely, now move the wheel up and down to ensure the suspension is also working as it should be.
Repeat all the above steps for the right front side.
Familiarise yourself with the front stabiliser bar (Stage 42). The central section is dropped, to fit below the engine when installed.
Lay the chassis assembly out on your work surface upside down. Line up one end of the front stabiliser bar to the underside of the hole on the side of the suspension arm. As the assembly is upside down, the depression in the bar should rise upwards. Insert a H-type screw and lightly tighten. Fit the other side of the stabiliser bar in the same way.
Stage complete.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Stage 44 – The right door outer panel
Contains parts –
Right door window
Right door panel
Right door trim
Door hinge plate
Door hinge support
Door hinge
Type C screws × 7
Type KK screws × 3
(one of each type of screw
is a spare)
Lay the right door panel on a towel to protect it from getting scratched, then, using the 2.3mm tap and cross wrench, cut a thread into the two holes inside the door.
Fit the door hinge onto the correspondingly shaped ridges at the side of the door panel then place the hinge support on top of the hinge edge. The cylindrical projections on the door panel will fit through the two holes in the support. Now place the door hinge plate on top of the support and secure with a type KK screw, turn the screw slowly as this hole is not tapped.
Familiarise yourself with the door trim. On the side of the trim that faces into the car, the two lower holes are recessed.
The side of the trim that will face the inside of the door panel has a ridge along its upper edge.
Line up the door trim the right way around, with the two lower holes lined up with the two on the door panel that you tapped earlier and fit the trim, then fit the bottom of the window to the same holes and posts, the trim should fit neatly onto the bottom of the window
and hold it in place. Secure with two type C screws.
Stage complete.
stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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