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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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A beautiful model and a top paint finish on this one. Hope you are great fun with this build. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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 Rank: Beginner Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/03/2015 Posts: 16 Points: 54 Location: Pincourt, Quebec
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I'm on board with everyone else, Colson. Bravo.
BTW, are you going to address the (IMO) far too distinct battle-damage? I find the stark dark (rhyme intentional) jarring.
When I get there (and I won't even begin until I have every part; early 2017 I suspect), I'll want to define the depths of these gouges with lighter-than-black tones, as well as some in-scale slightly raised edges along the lengths of the gashes. (Some (much of the) factory placed damage I'll just putty over and disappear.)
My best,
Dave
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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dowbyhuz wrote:I'm on board with everyone else, Colson. Bravo.
BTW, are you going to address the (IMO) far too distinct battle-damage? I find the stark dark (rhyme intentional) jarring.
My best,
Dave No, agreed. I'm going to dull down the battle damage a bit around the edges anyway, to give it more depth in the center. I also felt it was a bit do just black. I'm still debating on also on the rear left damage grinding it out in the center a bit more actually to make if physically deeper. And possibly adding some putty around the edges to make some jaggedy bits more like the actual filming model. They really dug in there on the filming one. But again, not completely finished, but darn close.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/05/2015 Posts: 66 Points: 204 Location: Minneapolis
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Nice work, Colson. I might try something similar. Good to know it can be done while surrounded by a full paint job. Now I just need a Dremel!
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/03/2013 Posts: 192 Points: 524 Location: United Kingdom
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Hi colson This definitely looks more realistic, excellent work  “Count your age by friends, not years. Count your life by smiles, not tears.”
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/03/2015 Posts: 16 Points: 54 Location: Pincourt, Quebec
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Great, Colson! This is just what I had in mind. Your images are now officially part of my reference file! :)
My best,
Dave
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 Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2015 Posts: 561 Points: 1,713 Location: South Carolina
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Very nicely done bro! I really like the effect!
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Rank: Beginner Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2016 Posts: 10 Points: 30 Location: Bellevue, WA, USA
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Hi Colson! I'm greatly enjoying your build updates and following much of your lead, especially regarding lighting. I'm only thru about issue 9 myself so I have a question from further back. On your post #29 you show adding fiber optic filaments to the rear (arch) instrument panel. I'm wondering, given the very tight clearance between the panel and the hull, how you routed the filaments. It seems a near right-angle bend in the filaments would be required, whether you routed them straight past the back wall or down and along the curve of the hull and then back. I admit I haven't tried yet. So did that 90 degree bend work or did you find another way?! Any securing of those filaments on the back side would also have to be neatly done as well, I suspect.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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Fergazoid wrote:Hi Colson!
I'm greatly enjoying your build updates and following much of your lead, especially regarding lighting. I'm only thru about issue 9 myself so I have a question from further back. On your post #29 you show adding fiber optic filaments to the rear (arch) instrument panel. I'm wondering, given the very tight clearance between the panel and the hull, how you routed the filaments. It seems a near right-angle bend in the filaments would be required, whether you routed them straight past the back wall or down and along the curve of the hull and then back. I admit I haven't tried yet. So did that 90 degree bend work or did you find another way?! Any securing of those filaments on the back side would also have to be neatly done as well, I suspect. It was tricky. They bend pretty well. I didn't do a full 90, it's more an arch, but I laid them down flat and taped them to the wall. I have seen tricks online of using a lighter close to the filament to heat it up and it bends 90 degrees. Since I was able to get it to work the way I did, I never tried that. My 1.5mm fibers I'm using for the exterior red running lights pretty easily bend 90 degrees.
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2016 Posts: 10 Points: 30 Location: Bellevue, WA, USA
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colson wrote:It was tricky. They bend pretty well. I didn't do a full 90, it's more an arch, but I laid them down flat and taped them to the wall. Thanks -- they do bend quite easily. I fastened them to their holes with a slight amount of Bondic and used more sparingly here and there to tack them down neatly and out of the way. (I hope.) That Bondic is great stuff!
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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Kinda Funny. You can tell now, by the lack of posting for a week, that most people are about at the same point now in the build. There's really nothing to update anymore. Until we get towards having the whole upper section, I can see that posting will be a bit more quiet around the boards. I'm currently working on my Bandai AT-ST, while waiting to build up my Falcon parts.
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2016 Posts: 122 Points: 381 Location: Layton, Utah
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I'm awed by this build. I fully expect to be using this log as a reference once I start getting my kits. I'm trying to save up at least 2/3rds of the total cost before I subscribe, just so I know if I have a bad month or two, I know I'm covered. Anyway, I just wanted to say, this is amazing! Great work! If at first you don't succeed,
maybe you should skip the chainsaw juggling...
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Welcome to the forum GoofyFoot,
Colsons build is pretty stunning!! I am forum support for USA so let me know if there is anything I can do to help you.
Carl
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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GoofyFoot wrote:I'm awed by this build. I fully expect to be using this log as a reference once I start getting my kits. I'm trying to save up at least 2/3rds of the total cost before I subscribe, just so I know if I have a bad month or two, I know I'm covered.
Anyway, I just wanted to say, this is amazing! Great work! Thanks GoofyFoot. Welcome to the forum. There's a bunch of good builds on here. And feel free to ask questions.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2016 Posts: 122 Points: 381 Location: Layton, Utah
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colson and darbyvet... Thanks for the welcomes! There are definitely a lot of talented modelers here, and I look forward to learning from you all! If at first you don't succeed,
maybe you should skip the chainsaw juggling...
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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QUESTION.So I'm up to issue 60 now. Has anyone who's gotten to this point yet tried running the circuit board with a 9v power supply? I bought a bunch of J2 connectors and am planning on hooking in to the circuit board with another board to run all of my additional lighting. I'd like to test, but I don't wanna fry anything by hooking up a 9v supply. Though Model Space does say it will power from a 9v supply eventually. Or will it really be 6v, which is what the battery compartment is?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/07/2015 Posts: 99 Points: 309 Location: north wales
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hi colson
in answer to your question I'm running my lighting of a plug in 9v adaptor and everything is working fine....with all the extras ive added the 6v supply wouldn't stand a chance.....hope this helps.....keep up the great work
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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adriuus wrote:hi colson
in answer to your question I'm running my lighting of a plug in 9v adaptor and everything is working fine....with all the extras ive added the 6v supply wouldn't stand a chance.....hope this helps.....keep up the great work And that's powering up the supplied circuit board from DeAgostini?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/07/2015 Posts: 99 Points: 309 Location: north wales
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yeah...it powers the supplied board....if you look at some of my posts on my build diary you'll see how I've integrated it all to suit how I want to finally display it http://forum.model-space...osts&t=16124&p=6
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US
