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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Here is my build diary for my Model Factory Hiro 1/24 Daytona Coupe racer. This is a Japanese made multimedia kit consisting of mainly metal parts with photoetched details and a resin body.It builds into a highly detailed kit and like a lot of multimedia kits it is a bit of a challenge to build.Here are some unboxing pictures. I have done quite a bit of test fitting and so far this is a very well engineered kit pretty good fit. darbyvet attached the following image(s):
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That looks like an interesting and challenging build. I'll be following this closely. Malc.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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The frame is now assembled.The spring leaf suspension is made up of individual photoectched blades and then held together with photoetched ties.They assembled beautifully.Most of this wont be visible in the finished car, but it still is very detailed.Part of the engine is assembled. darbyvet attached the following image(s):
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I have looked at these kits and they certainly are detailed, nice to see one being built here. Excellent start!
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Looks like a very nice model indeed. Will be interested to see how this all comes together. Cannot quite makeout the decals from your pictures but are they waterslide or self adhesive? Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Thanks guys, it is a very nice kit.Very pricey, but very high quality parts.Those are waterslide decals.Everything fits very well for a multimedia kit.
Carl
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2015 Posts: 1,419 Points: 4,272 Location: Darmstadt, Germany
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Nice to see some MFH here. The Tipo158 they're releasing soon looks like classic Pocher minus the color. Even has the individual metal spokes in the wheels.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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greyhawk wrote:Nice to see some MFH here. The Tipo158 they're releasing soon looks like classic Pocher minus the color. Even has the individual metal spokes in the wheels. I have my eye on the 1/12 GTO.It has wire wheels too an an engine with working pistons and tappets.I actaully have the engine kit and is is mind blowingly good.it will be my next build. Of course the 1/12 GTO is $850 !!!!!!!!
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These kits are very fine indeed, and I am looking forward to following your journey on this one. Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.” -Mark Twain
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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More work on the Cobra.I added the floor for the interior and added some more engine detail.The fan belt was tape and was a bear to attach.I seem to be having a paint adhesion issue and will need some touch up, but I will wait until I am done fiddling with the engine.It is quite heavy now and a bit tricky to hold without damaging. darbyvet attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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:( That's really unfortunate, I've been following this build with a lot of interest as it's one of my favourite cars ever. Have you ever attempted soldering white metal? I'm curious how easy/difficult it is to solder. For once I think it has a low melting point so it might be tricky to not do damage to the parts? And the parts themselves act like a big heat sink so it might also be hard to make the solder flow well enough for a good and solid joint? Or maybe I'm overthinking it and it's much easier than I think it is? I'm pretty good at soldering, up to the point of soldering in 0.4mm pitch SMD VSOP microchips but it's the physical properties of the white metal I'm more worried about? I'm asking as I'm having some white metal soldering coming my way too... Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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I have watched some youtube videos and it seems doable.They use a torch to gently heat the parts-keep the torch moving so it doesnt melt the white metal.use low melting point solder and watch very carefully so you remove the heat as soon as the solder melts.
What I am finding is that some of the white metal parts in this car are heavy with small attachment points.The epoxy just doesnt form a strong enough bond to the metal.Any pressure and the joint fails.
I am looking at MFH 1/12 GTO kit, but I may buy a cheap white metal kit first to practice on.
Carl
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,301 Points: 23,991 Location: East midlands
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Hi All, Lots of soldering tips in the link below with pics. Model making know-how - SolderingHope this helps. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Thanks Derek, I may add something on soldering white metal to that post if I can get it to work without melting the metal.
Cael
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Have you thought about trying chemical metal to fix the parts just an idea, http://www.ebay.co.uk/sc...ical+metal&_sacat=0
Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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yes I have tried metal epoxy.it has the same issue as regular epoxy.it is too thick to get into the joints.Solder is perfect because when it melts it seeps into the joint
Carl \
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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More progress on the Cobra.I rebuilt the damaged front end and added the carb and the spark plug wires, the firewall and some interior detail.The distributor cap pinged off into never never land so I used a piece of white metal to simulate it.next step is to add the rest of the interior detail and the radiator and then on to the out body shell. Carl darbyvet attached the following image(s):
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Very nice Carl, she's coming along a treat...... .. Hopefully no more mishaps..... Regards Alan
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Thanks Alan.it is getting really heavy now.I hope the wheel axles can support its weight
Carl
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