|
|
 Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/02/2016 Posts: 8 Points: 24 Location: weymouth
|
I,m new to modelling in wood, I started the Victory build after Xmas and I,m now at the fairing stage.
I've watched the official build video and read the instructions but can't bring myself to start sanding!
My decks in places stick out past the ribs, do I build the rib up or sand the deck?
In other places the ribs stick out past the deck, does it matter if I end up with gaps between the rib and deck.
I,d hate to mess up now I want to see this build through to the end and hopefully end up with something really nice.
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Alan, try not to worry to much just start gently you may have to remove some deck material in line with fairing the ribs. Just make sure you have the deck dead centre and nail it down so there is no movement If you fair from the keel first by the time you get to the deck you will have a good feel for the shape. If in doubt post some pics so you can get more advice, lots of knowledge on the forum to draw from Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
|
|
|
 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/08/2010 Posts: 2,771 Points: 8,344 Location: Brighton
|
Hi Alan. Good luck with your fairing, it is a daunting task, the first time you do it. as Jase said, if you have any doubts please post some pictures so we can advise you. Regards Ian Current builds.Hachettes build the bismark,HMS Victory, HMS Hood.
Finished Builds Corel HMS Victory cross section.
|
|
|
 Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
|
Hi Alan
I’m a newbie myself but here are some points I picked up along the way.
Don’t skimp. It took me 2 weeks to complete this stage in the end. If you are in any doubt whether a section is good or not, carry on. I broke the hull into 6 sections. Port and starboard, bows, stern and mid section. I also glued 3 planks together to give me a line across the whole length (you can use mortise and tenons for this). You need to use this plank to continuously to check each section you are working on and then the areas between sections across the whole length.
I found that, if any parts of the deck that were proud they could be taken back but, if the ribs were proud, leave them to be adjusted in line with their neighbouring ribs, not the deck which doesn't need to be built up. The other major problem I faced were ribs that were inset. These need to be built up before rubbing back again and sometimes they were badly off line. However, you cannot leave these as they will ruin the look of the hull when you have finished planking especially in the areas above the decks. In the end mine worked out all good apart from one small bump on the bows below the water line but that has disappeared now that I have completed the tiling.
She has a gorgeous shape to her hull and deserves much care and attention at this stage.
Hope all that make sense and helps.
Good luck
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
|
I'm still working on my first wooden ship build and felt much the same as you when it came to fairing. I kept looking at and then getting scared in case I over did it  I just did little at a time stopping often to check how the planks sat until it looked right, it took sometime but this is something that is worth investing the time in so that it looks good when then hull is finished 
|
|
|
 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
The SotS has some Hull Fairing info pages which you might find useful as the principle is the same http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=5499
|
|
|
Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/02/2016 Posts: 8 Points: 24 Location: weymouth
|
Thank you all for the replies and advice I will join three planks as advised and start this weekend.
|
|
|
|
Guest
|
US
