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Pack 11 contains Stages 46 - 50
Stage 46 - Contains the Z-axis top mounting plate, M3 truss head screws (14mm), M3 washers, M3 nuts, and a coupling (5-5).
In this section of the User Guide, you set up the printer for printing by performing pre-operation checks to see if everything is working properly. You then perform a number of calibration exercises including the vital setting up of the modelling table.
Note: There are four corrections to the Pack 11 user guide as follows:
1. On page 290 of User Guide 2, Step 3 under the sub-heading Heat up the hot end then tighten the nozzle, refers to a 6mm spanner being used to tighten the nozzle. However, the nozzle nut tool supplied with Stage 55 should be used instead. Please see page 238 for how to assemble and use the nozzle nut tool to tighten the nozzle.
2. On page 291, the text in Step 5 describes using three knurled nuts to adjust the height of the table. There are, in fact, four knurled nuts, one at each corner of the table. In addition, the knurled nuts do not have the protrusions as described in Step 5.
3. On page 292, the text in Step 9 describes turning a knurled nut at front centre but there is no nut at front centre. The nut that should be turned is at front right.
4. On page 292, the text in Step 12 describes turning knurled nuts at front centre and rear left. However, the nuts that should be turned are at front left and (if necessary) rear left. Now peel off the tape that you used to hold the nuts in place.
For this stage of the assembly you will need the printer housing.
Start by peeling the protective layers off the Z shaft fixing plate. Then put an M3 washer on each of the M3 14mm truss head screws supplied with this stage. Place the fixing plate on your worksurface. Put adhesive tape over the grooves to prevent the nuts falling out. Then turn the plate over and slot the M3 nuts into the grooves.
Hold the plate (with the tape on the underside), insert its tabs into the two slots in the rear panel of the housing. With the rear panel facing you, insert the 14mm truss head screws (with washers) through the screw holes in the rear panel and into the nuts in the plate. Finger tighten them only.
To protect the bottom of the housing and the printer nozzle, use tape to secure a sheet of paper (such as copier paper) over the bottom of the housing and tape some paper over the tip of the nozzle as shown in Step 9.
Put the shaft of the Z-axis motor into the hole in the coupling. It does not matter which way up the coupling is positioned. Align the coupling’s bottom with the top of the plate that forms the motor mount and tighten the lower hexagonal bolt in the coupling using the 50x2.5mm Allen key.
Look from the side to see if you have the coupling aligned correctly, ensure its bottom is aligned with the top surface of the mounting plate. There should not be a gap and the bottom of the coupling should not be below the plate. Check that the coupling is on securely after tightening the screw.
This completes this Stage, leave the protective paper in position.
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Stage 47 - Contains Z-axis rods, M4 truss head screws (10mm), Grease and a Cable tie.
Get ready the printer housing and the table, which you last worked on in Stage 45.
With your finger, put some of the grease supplied into the openings of the linear bushes, then spread it to the bearings inside the bushes using the tail of the supplied cable tie.
Inside each linear bush are four columns of steel ball arranged at 90 degree intervals. Make sure the grease covers all the balls.
Take the table, with the small metal plate at the back left of the table, move the table into the housing through the opening in the front panel of the housing. Holding the table with one hand, insert one of the Z-axis rods through the left side linear bush with your other hand. Push the rod gently through the bush until it touches the bottom of the housing. Now pass the other rod through the other linear bush until it touches the housing’s bottom. Align the tops of the rods with the holes ringed in red in the Z-axis mounting plate and insert M4 screws through the holes. Finger tighten the screws into the screw holes in the tops of the rods.
Handle the rods and bushes gently as the operation of the printer depends on the table being guided up and down smoothly by the rods. If you have to, rest the table on the paper you put over the bottom of the housing.
Turn the housing so the rear is facing you and tighten the two screws that hold the Z-axis top plate to the rear of the housing with a size 1 Phillips screwdriver.
Turn the housing so its front is facing you and, holding the table steady, lie the housing down on its right side. Align the bottoms of both rods with the screw holes and insert M4 screws through the holes and finger tigten them in the rods’ screw holes.
Holding on to the table, turn the housing the right way up. Holding the table level, move the table slowly up to the top of the rods. Do not let the table touch the nozzle. Push the table so the screws ringed in red move to the back of the oblong screw holes in the Z-axis top mounting plate. Holding the table in position, grip each rod in turn to stop it spinning while you tighten the screws using the size 2 Phillips screwdriver.
Lower the table slowly and carefully and check that the metal plate fits between the sides of the limit switch. If it does not, adjust the position of the switch by loosening its screws with a size 1 Phillips screwdriver and moving the switch until it does. When the switch is in the correct position, tighten its screws.
Holding the table at the bottom of the housing, turn the housing so it is on its front, and use a size 2 Phillips screwdriver to tighten the screws to attach the Z-axis rods to the housing’s base.
It is important to tighten the screws at the top of the Z-axis rods with the table at the top, then to tighten the screws at the bottom with the table at the bottom. It’s a good idea to keep a hand supporting the table every time you turn the housing.
This completes this Stage of the assembly. Leave the protective paper in place.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Stage 48 - Contains a lead screw, Bottom cover panel, M3 truss head screws (14mm), M3 washers, and M3 nuts.
Do not remove the protective paper from the bottom cover panel just yet as this will not be used until a later stage.
Get ready the housing and take the lead screw. Note that on one end of the lead screw the thread continues all the way to the end. On the other end is an unthreaded section.
Make sure you get the lead screw the right way up (the end with the unthreaded tip is at the bottom) when you screw it through the brass nut and do your best not to damage the thread of either the nut or the screw itself. When the lead screw is about halfway through, insert its unthreaded tip into the hole in the top of the coupling and clamp it in place by tightening the upper hexagonal bolt in the coupling.
Insert the end of the lead screw that has an unthreaded section into the brass nut and screw it into the brass nut by turning the lead screw clockwise. Keep the top of the lead screw clear of the timing belt and, as you continue to turn it through the brass nut, support the table as it moves up the lead screw.
When you have screwed about half of the length of the lead screw through the brass nut, insert the unthreaded end of the lead screw firmly into the hole in the top of the Z-axis motor coupling. If the hole in the coupling does not align with the end of the lead screw, move the motor in the horizontal plane until it does. If the lead screw's end will not go into the hole, loosen the upper hexagonal screw in the coupling so the hole opens up. Use the 50 x 2.5mm Allen key to tighten the hexagonal nut in the coupling.
When you rotate the lead screw in a clockwise direction the table should rise. If you hear a squeaking sound when you rotate the lead screw, raise the table and apply a thin layer of the grease (supplied with Stage 47) to the length of the screw.
The table is lowered by turning the lead screw counterclockwise. Turn the lead screw until the table is lowered all the way to the bottom.
This completes this Stage. Leave the protective paper in position and carefully store the remaining parts until needed.
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Stage 49 - Contains Arm parts A & B, Tension spring, Bearing (624ZZ), M4 truss head screw (12mm), M4 nut, M3 truss head screws (16mm), M3 washers, M3 nuts and and M3 spacers (5mm).
Peel off the protective covering from arm part B then set it aside.
Put an M3 washer on each of the three 16mm M3 truss head screws supplied this time.
Take arm A and turn it so the long section of the arm is at the top, and pointing right. Push the M4 nut into the hexagonal hole in arm part A. Turn arm part A over so the long section of the arm is pointing to the left. Insert the bearing (624ZZ) into the circular hole above where the nut is positioned. The bearing can go in either way up since it does not have a flange. Insert the 12mm M4 truss head screw through the bearing and tighten it in the nut using a screwdriver. Put an M3 nut in each of the three hexagonal holes in arm A.
Turn the arm over so the long section is at the top and pointing right. If the nuts fall out, secure them temporarily in position with adhesive tape. Then place a 5mm M3 spacer over each of the two holes indicated in Step 8.
Hold arm B so that the notch is at the bottom right and put a 16mm M3 truss head screw (with washer on) through each of the two screw holes. It’s important to make sure you get the acrylic panel named arm part B the right way round as shown in Step 9.
Insert the screws in arm part B through the spacers resting on arm part A, then tighten the screws into the nuts in arm part A using a screwdriver.
Place a 5mm M3 spacer in a hook end of the tension spring. Hold the spacer in place and insert the spring into the gap between the arm parts. Align the spacer with the screw holes in the top and bottom arms. Now pPut a 16mm M3 truss head screw (with washer) into the screw hole, through the spacer and tighten it into the nut below with a screwdriver.
This completes the assembly of the extruder arm.
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Stage 50 - Contains a large gear (P0.5-60), Drive shaft, Bearing (F685ZZ), M5 washers, M3 set screws (3mm) and a Drive roller.
Look at the drive shaft and you will see that it has a flat surface along part of its length. Insert the drive shaft into the hole in the centre of the large gear on the side of the gear with the screw hole. It does not matter which end of the drive shaft you insert. After insertion the shaft should protrude from the hole in the gear side of the large gear.
Put an M5 washer over the end of the drive shaft that protrudes from the gear side of the large gear. Then put the bearing (F685FF) on to the protruding drive shaft. The bearing can go on either way at this stage. Align the end of the drive shaft with the left surface of the bearing.
Put the end of the 1.5mm Allen key into the hexagonal hole in the head of a 3mm set screw. Then align the flat surface of the drive shaft with the screw hole in the large gear. Put the set screw into the screw hole and tighten it up. Then remove the bearing and washer from the drive shaft.
Put the M5 washer you have just removed onto the opposite end of the drive shaft, then fit the drive roller on the shaft with the screw hole on the left and groove on the right. Slide the drive roller along the shaft so that there is no space between the gear, the washer and the end of the drive roller. Align the screw hole on the drive roller with that in the large gear, then secure the drive roller to the shaft by inserting and tightening a 3mm set screw in the screw hole in the drive roller.
This completes the assembly of the extruder large gear. Carefully store the remaining bearing (F685ZZ) and M5 washer, these will be used in the next Stage.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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The final Pack 12 contains Stages 51 - 55
Stage 51 - Contains acrylic parts A, B & C, Bearing (F685ZZ), M3 truss head screws (12mm), M3 washers and M3 nuts.
Get ready the large gear and drive roller that you assembled in Stage 50, and also the bearing and M5 washer supplied with Stage 50. Then put an M3 washer onto each of the 12mm M3 truss head screws supplied.
Position part A as shown, fit one of the bearings into the large circular hole. The plug the drive shaft, with the large gear and the drive roller mounted on it, into the bearing, so the drive roller is close to the bearing. Then put an M5 washer on the drive shaft.
Position part B as shown, fit the other bearing in the medium-sized circular hole. Turn part B over, so that the large circular hole is on the right. Put the drive shaft on part A through the bearing, so that part A is sitting on top of part B. Now turn the assembly so that the large hole is facing you, on the right, and fit an M3 nut into each of the four slots shown.
Hold part C as shown in Step 11, so that the two tabs are at the top and the six small circular holes are towards the bottom right. Insert the four tabs on acrylic parts A and B into the slots of part C. Now put washers over the shafts of each of the four 12mm M3 truss head screws. Then, insert the screws into the nuts and finger-tighten them.
This completes this stage of the assembly.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Stage 52 - Contains acrylic part D, M3 truss head screws (12mm), M3 washers, M3 nuts, M4 truss head screw (35mm) and an M4 spacer (12mm).
Get ready the drive unit that you assembled in Stage 51 and the extruder arm you put together in Stage 49. Then put an M3 washer on each of the four 12mm M3 truss head screws supplied with this stage.
Position the drive assembly so the large circular hole is at the front left and the large gear is at the front right, then insert an M3 nut into each of the four slots.
Hold acrylic part D as shown in Step 5 , with its tabs at the top. The square hole should be central and the circular hole to the right. Insert the tabs on laser-cut parts A and B into the slots in part D. Insert the screws with washers through the screw holes into the nuts you added earlier, finger-tighten them.
Hold the drive unit, so the curved indent is at the front right. Move the lower end of the extruder arm into the drive unit and align the screw holes in the arm and in the drive unit. Insert the 35mm M4 truss head screw about halfway into the aligned screw holes. Turn the drive unit so the arm is facing you and check that the 35mm M4 truss head screw does not poke out of the hole in the arm. If it does, pull it back. Pick up the 12mm M4 spacer with tweezers and position it as shown in Step 10, so that one of its ends aligns with the screw hole in the arm. Holding the spacer in position, push the 35mm M4 truss head screw in, so it enters the spacer. Move the assembly so the M4 screw is uppermost, then tighten the screw into the threaded hole in laser-cut part B. Do not over-tighten the screw as this might prevent the extruder arm moving freely. - If you find that the screw entry ito the hole is tight, do not force it as it may crack the acrylic. Instead, remove the screw and use drill varying size bits by hand to clear the hole that are gradual in size rather than the intial full diameter, otherwise initially usiung the fill diameter size dril bit may crack the acrylic in the same manner as forcing the screw.
This completes this stage of the assembly.
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Stage 53 - Contains a Tube fitting, M4 cap head bolt (20mm), M4 nut, M4 washer, M3 truss head screws (10mm), M3 washers, Small gear (P0.5-22), M3 set screw (3mm) and the Extruder motor.
Get ready the drive unit assembly that you last worked on in Stage 52. Screw the M4 nut about halfway down the shaft of the M4 cap head bolt and then put the washer on the bolt. Put an M3 washer on each of the three 10mm M3 truss head screws that are suplied with this Stage.
Position the drive unit so the arm is on the right and screw the tube fitting into the threaded hole in the uppermost plate in the drive unit. Screw the 20mm M4 cap head bolt into the centre front threaded screw hole of the six closely spaced screw holes on the top of the upper plate of the drive unit. Turn the screw until the tip of the screw is level with the underneath of the plate and then lock it in position by tightening the nut with your fingers.
Tighten the truss head screws shown ringed in red above. Tighten the two on the right while moving the arm of the extruder, to be sure that the nuts are clear of the arm and that the arm moves freely.
Align the flat surface of the motor's drive shaft with the screw hole in the small gear and slide the gear onto the shaft. Insert the 3mm set screw into the screw hole in the small gear and tighten it with the 1.5mm Allen key, just enough so that the gear does not fall off the shaft.
Place the motor so its shaft is uppermost and its connector on the right. Hold the drive unit with its arm at the back and cap screw on the left, and lower the large circular hole over the small gear of the motor, fitting it over the ring shape on the motor. Screw the three 10mm M3 truss head screws (with washers) through the holes in the drive unit and into the screw holes in the motor. Insert the screwdriver through the holes in the upper plate to gain access to the screws.
Hold the motor as shown so its connector is at the front and move the small gear along the shaft to align it with the large gear. Tighten the set screw when the gears align. Cut a strip of thin paper to between 1.5 and 2cm in width. Sandwich the paper between the small and large gears by feeding it between the gears and rotating the gears with a finger. Place the motor on your work surface and, while pushing the gears together, fully tighten the three screws.
Hold the motor and drive unit and fully tighten the two screws indicated . When these two screws are fully tightened, pull the paper out from between the gears. The paper is used to set the gap between the teeth of the two gears accurately, so ensuring smooth running.
Hook the end of the tension spring over the cap bolt. A bit of pressure might be required, align the tension spring so its sides are parallel with the top panel of the drive unit.
This completes this stage of the assembly.
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Stage 54 - Contains the Spool holder, M10 washer, M10 nut, Bottom cover panel/front, M3 truss head screws (14mm), M3 washers, M3 nuts, Cable ties and the Filament guide tube.
Get ready the housing and identify the mounting positions for the spool holder and extruder assembly, both of which are on the rear panel. You will also need the extruder assembly that you last worked on in Stage 53.
Remove the M10 nut and washer from the end of the spool holder and keep them handy. Put an M3 washer on two of the 14mm M3 truss head screws.
Put an M3 nut into each of the nut slots. The nuts can be temporarily held in position with masking tape to stop them falling out before they are screwed tight.
With the tension spring at the top of the extruder assembly, insert the tabs or projections on the assembly into the four slots in the rear of the housing. Hold the extruder assembly with one hand while you insert the screws through their holes in the rear casing, tightening the screws into the nuts. If you have temporarily secured the nuts with tape, remove the tape now.
Plug the motor cable connector into the extruder motor’s socket. Viewed from the rear, the yellow wire should be on the left.
Insert the threaded end of the spool holder through the hole in the rear of the housing. Hold the spool holder in position and put the M10 washer, then the M10 nut, on its threaded end. Then, gripping the spool holder tightly, use the acrylic spanner to tighten the M10 nut.
This completes this Stage of the assembly, carefully set aside the remaining parts for the next (final) Stage of the idbox assembly.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Final Stage 55 - Contains Power cable, Modelling table, Clips, Nozzle nut tool (in two parts), Heater block wrench, BuildTak sheet and sample filament rolls.
In this last stage, you attach two plates that protect the components in the bottom of the idbox’s housing. With these simple additions, you reach the end of the assembly of your 3D printer. It is important, however, to get the order of operations correct regarding the assembly, setting up and calibration of your idbox.
Note: There is a correction in Step 6 photo in the Stage 43 assembly guide, the motor cables of the X- and Y-axes are shown plugged into each other’s sockets. The proper positions for the cables are shown below. Instructions for fitting the cables correctly are given in Assembly Guide Stage 39.
Note: There are four corrections to the Pack 11 user guide text as follows:
1. On page 290 of User Guide 2, Step 3 under the sub-heading Heat up the hot end then tighten the nozzle, refers to a 6mm spanner being used to tighten the nozzle. However, the nozzle nut tool supplied with Stage 55 should be used instead. Please see page 238 for how to assemble and use the nozzle nut tool to tighten the nozzle.
2. On page 291, the text in Step 5 describes using three knurled nuts to adjust the height of the table. There are, in fact, four knurled nuts, one at each corner of the table. In addition, the knurled nuts do not have the protrusions as described in Step 5.
3. On page 292, the text in Step 9 describes turning a knurled nut at front centre but there is no nut at front centre. The nut that should be turned is at front right.
4. On page 292, the text in Step 12 describes turning knurled nuts at front centre and rear left. However, the nuts that should be turned are at front left and (if necessary) rear left. Now peel off the tape that you used to hold the nuts in place.
Prepare the idbox housing - Check that all the screws (including the set screws), nuts and bolts are tightened properly. Remove any paper covering the nozzle and the table base.
Prepare the nozzle nut tool by sticking the two halves together with PVA adhesive.
The hexagonal socket on one side of the tool is used to tighten the printer nozzle. (See page 290 in Pack 11).
Before you start the remaining steps in this Assembly Guide stage, make sure that you have followed all the Instructions in User Guide 1 in Pack 10 and User Guide 2 in Pack 11.
Retrieve the remaining components that were supplied with Stages 48 and 54. Peel the protective paper off the acrylic panels and put an M3 washer on each of the four M3 truss head screws. (The filament guide tube, supplied with Stage 54, will be needed when you test the extruder in User Guide 3 of this pack).
Put an M3 nut into each of the four nut slots. Secure the nuts in the slots with PVA glue or tape so they don’t fall out.
Position the rear base cover panel so the narrow section indicated above is on the left and the wider section is on the right. Insert the two tabs on the rear base cover panel into the slots shown outlined in red, above. Try not to touch the Z-axis rods or lead screw with the panel. If a nut falls, retrieve it, taking care not to damage the components in the base of the housing. Insert the M3 truss head screws (with washers on) through the screw holes on the left and right of the housing and tighten them into the nuts in the panel with a screwdriver.
With the front of the idbox facing towards you, position the front base cover panel so the notch is on the right at the front. Insert the M3 truss head screw into the nut on the left and tighten. Put a finger in the notch and move the panel so that the nut and screw hole on the right align. Then insert the M3 truss head screw and tighten it into the nut in the panel.
Note - A filament spool is not included with the collection as spools are normally included with the purchase of filament rolls.
Finally clip the BuildTak sheet (black side up) onto the printer table – see page 313 of the User Guide 3 in this pack.
Before you attempt to test the extruder and output a test print, make sure you have finished constructing the idbox as set out in Assembly Guide Stage 55, being sure that you have performed all the instruction on pages 255 to 256 of User Guide 1 in Pack 10 and all the instructions on pages 283 to 292 of User Guide 2 in Pack 11 before you attach the bottom or base covers. Read the Corrections on page 321 before you attempt the instructions on pages 290 to 292 of User Guide 2. Its also a good idea for users of Windows to update the O/S software to Windows 10.
This completes the assembly of the idbox!
Happy 3D Printing! https://www.youtube.com/...oE&feature=youtu.be
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