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![](/images/ranks/rank-pro.gif) Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Soleil Royal
The Soleil Royal (Royal Sun) was a French 104-gun ship of the line.
She was built in Brest between 1668 and 1670 by engineer Laurent Hubac, was launched in 1669, and stayed unused in Brest harbour for years. She was said to be a good sailing ship and her decorations were amongst the most beautiful and elaborate of all baroque flagships. The emblem of the "sun" had been chosen by Louis XIV as his personal symbol. The decorations originated with Louis' great court painter, Charles Le Brum. These drawings were interpreted by Jean Berain into concrete color sketches still existing in the Muse de Louvre in Paris. From these sketches, the carvings were carried out by Antoine Corsevoix.
During the night of the 2nd and 3rd June 1692, at the Pointe du Hommet, she was attacked by 17 ships, which she managed to repel with artillery fire. However, a fireship set her stern on fire and the fire soon reached the powder rooms. Although the population of Cherbourg came to rescue, there was only one survivor among the 883 crew.
The remains of the Soleil Royal now lie buried beneath a parking space next to the 'Arsenal'.
The loss Soleil Royal- the most impressive tall ship that France ever built, together with 18 others, was the most serious naval setback for France in the 17th century. Today, Soleil Royal remains France’s cry of courage.
The Soleil Royal Model Ship
Scale: 1:70 Length 1020, Width 430mm, Height 870mm 140 parts sets.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiuhVT3UIjg
Features laser-cut plywood frames, double plank-on-frame construction, stitched sail set, guilded metal ornamentation & cannon barrels, wooden masts & spars and mixture of wood types, assorted rigging threads and a pin-pusher tool is also included.
The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible.
The official build diary will follow the format of the instructions, and will not include any enhancement to the build. You can of course build and enhance your model how you so choose.
Soleil Royal video build: https://www.youtube.com/...pib96omFDLp0y-0vTeywIpx
You may order your own kit here; https://www.deagostini.c...cale-models/soleil-royalTomick attached the following image(s):
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Pack 1 contains Stages 1 - 5 Stage 1 contains: Hull Frame 2, Deck Half, Wooden Strips 0.6 x 5 x 200mm, Decoration, Wood Glue, Sandpaper and False Keel. Note that the supplied wood glue and sandpaper are just to get you started, additional PVA wood glue and sandpaper will be required. Smooth the surfaces of all the pieces with sandpaper to eliminate any imperfections in the wood. Sand gently so as not to damage or change the shape of the pieces, and don’t forget the edges. Before gluing the false keel, make sure that the pieces fit together. Place Hull Frame 2 into the 2nd slot of the false keel and push it down. Check that the pieces interlock, and mark the position of the Hull Frame. Now separate the two pieces and spread wood glue on the contact area and fit them together. Check, using a set-square, that the angles at the intersection of the pieces are exactly at 90 degrees. Keep the hull frame and false keel in place until the glue is completely dry. Prepare the 0.6 x 5 x 200mm wooden strips to cover the deck. Cut the strips to 70mm in length with a craft knife or scissors, then clamp a few pieces together and use a pencil to blacken one edge of the strips. Glue the deck planking strips as shown in the Step G & H of the instructions, staggering the joints between the strips. Continue to fix deck planking, keeping the staggered formation. As you progress, make sure that the pieces are fixed down firmly. Use a rounded handle, as shown in Step H of the instructions, to make sure the planks are flat on the deck surface. Cover the deck, leaving the end portion bare, as shown in the Step H & J of the instructions. Turn the deck piece over, and use a craft knife to remove the excess of the strips so they are perfectly flush with the edges of the deck. To replicate the nails in the decking, make a dot with a pencil at each corner of each deck plank. Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Stage 2 contains: Deck Half, Hull Frame 3, Wooden Strips 0.6 x 5 x 200mm, Gun Carriages, Guns. Smooth the surfaces of all pieces with sandpaper to eliminate any imperfections in the Wood and don’t forget the edges. Before gluing the false keel make sure the pieces fit together. Place Hull Frame 3 into the 3rd slot of the False Keel and push the frame all the way down. Check that the pieces interlock, and mark the position of the Hull Frame. Now separate the two pieces and spread wood glue on the contact area and fit them together. Check, using a set-square that the angles at the intersection of the pieces are exactly 90 degrees and flush with the top of the Keel. Keep the hull frame and false keel in place until the glue is completely dry. Prepare the 0.6 x 5 x 200mm wooden strips to cover the deck. Cut the strips to 70mm in length with a craft knife or scissors, then clamp a few pieces together and with a pencil blacken one edge of the strips. As in step 1 of the instructions.
Take the Deck from stage 1 and put it next to the new piece, you need to ensure that the planking is as symmetrical as possible. As described in stage 1, start sticking down the new planking on to the foredeck as shown in step G of the instructions. Cover the deck with planking, don’t forget to black line the planks and stagger the joints. Leave the aft edge uncovered. As in step H of the instructions When the glue has dried, turn the piece over and trim the excess planking with a craft knife, Turn the piece over and on the planked side with a pencil add the nail dots to the planking as in steps I & J of the instructions. Place the pieces together to see that both sides of the fore deck fit flush together. The planking should be staggered as in step J in the instructions. . Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Stage 3 Contains: Hull frame 1 , Hull frame 4 and a Stern decoration.
Lightly sand the pieces, as before. Check the Hull Frame 1 fits together in slot 1 of the false keel. Mark the position off Hull frame 1, separate the two pieces and spread wood glue on the contact areas. Check the angles at the intersection are at 90 degrees using set – square. Keep the Hull frame and keel in place until glue is completely dry.
Take both of the Fore deck pieces you made earlier in stage 1 and stage 2 and lightly sand the edges. Use a small file to sand the slots as shown in Step F of the instructions . The deck must fit perfectly between the hull frames.
Use a piece of sandpaper to smooth the deck planking, Sand in the direction of the wood grain not across it.
Before fixing the two halves of the deck make sure the frames fit properly in the slots. Push the first deck half onto the frames at an angle then lower it to horizontal, As shown by arrows in Step H of the instructions.
Fit the second deck half as shown in Step I of the instructions , Step J of the instructions also shows the deck halves correctly fitted from another angle. Now remove the deck halves..
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Stage 4 contains: False keel middle Section, Two reinforcement pieces, and a Deck piece 3.
Sand all parts smooth as before. Turn the hull over and place on a flat surface, so you can work on the keel without the hull frames getting in the way. Glue a reinforcement to the keel as indicated by the arrow as Shown in Step B of the instructions. Making sure the slot in the bottom of the reinforcement is not covered by the keel. Hold the reinforcement to the keel with a clamp until the glue has dried,
Glue the second reinforcement to the false keel as shown in Step D of the instructions. Check that the two are flush with the top edge of the keel and do not over lap. Make sure that you keep the slots in the reinforcements (arrowed as in Step D of the instructions) into which Hull frame 4 will fit, are aligned and clear. Place a clamp to hold this piece in its position.
Take the middle section of the false keel, and spread a layer of glue on the area indicated by he jagged red lines as shown in Step E of the instructions. Then slide the false keel between the two reinforcements and up against the other section of the false keel.
Use Two clamps to hold the assembly together, Make sure all elements are aligned correctly. Turn the assembly over and put clamps on the upper part of the reinforcements on both sides of the slot . Remove any excess glue with a damp cloth. Only remove the clamps when the glue has completely dried.
Take Hull frame 4, from stage 3 of the build and glue it into the slot in the reinforcements. Use a set-square to make sure the pieces are at 90 degrees to each other. Allow the glue to completely dry.
Take Deck piece 3, and test fit it in place on hull frames and keel. Remove the deck piece, and apply glue to the areas indicated, as shown Step I of the instructions. Place the deck piece into position, and weigh it down with something heavy until the glue has completely dried.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
Modelling stand used to hold keel. Available here in Modelspace Tools and Accessories.magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Stage 5 contains: Hull Frame 5, Hull Frame 6. and 2 wooden stripes 5 x 5 x 300mm.
Lightly sand all pieces as before, Test fit Hull frame 5 into the next slot, Glue hull frame 5 into the slot and use a set-square to check that the intersections are at 90 degrees to each other .
Now test fit Hull frame 6 into the next slot. Then glue hull frame 6 into the slot. Use a set-square to check the intersections are at 90 degrees to each other. Leave until the glue is completely dry.
Measure and mark a length of 5 x 5 x 300mm wooden stripe, to fit onto the lower projections on the inside of Hull Frame 2. Cut the strip at the marked point.
Apply wood glue to the lower projections of Hull frame 2. as shown in Step F of the instructions, then fit the beam into position on the ledges, keeping it flush with the frame at both ends of the beam.
Repeat Steps 5E to 5G to fix the beams to Hull Frame 3 and Hull Frame 4, Allow the glue to completely dry.
Spread glue half way along the beam of Hull frames 2, 3 and 4 and stick left hand deck in as shown in photo I. Repeat to fit the right Hand deck Piece, as shown in Step J of the instructions.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
Modelling stand used to hold keel. Available here in Modelspace Tools and Accessories.magpie1832 attached the following image(s): On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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