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These builds just blow me away, fantastic work!!
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,251 Points: 23,841 Location: East midlands
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WTG, a stunning example. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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It's nice to see it coming together, painting mine at the moment. I look forward to seeing it painted.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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You know, the one thing I'm noticing with the hull piece covering the hold is that gunner port overlaps it and the radar dish does as well. With the gunner port screwed down and the dish on, it's very difficult to remove. If you pull off the dish, it's a little easier, but you'll have to slide it out from under the gunner port first and do the same to put it back on. Little bit of a bummer being a pain to remove like that.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/05/2016 Posts: 130 Points: 386 Location: Murrieta, CA (USA)
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I was looking at your posts and looks like you bought your fiber optics from the same place I did on EBay. Ha, ha called you Agent Colson in response to your post on my build. I just started my build about 2 months ago. So I have a long way to go. Make things as simple as possible but not simpler... - Albert Einstein
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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Bill-Devine wrote:I was looking at your posts and looks like you bought your fiber optics from the same place I did on EBay.
Ha, ha called you Agent Colson in response to your post on my build.
I just started my build about 2 months ago. So I have a long way to go. He's a good guy. I've referred many builders to his Ebay store.
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Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/10/2015 Posts: 8 Points: 27
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Wow your amazing can I ask with the painting of the squares on the lower hold did you use the straight flat grey and flat red that they suggested or did you mix it with something else? The magazine says to mix a rust red but I couldn't find reference in the books or on Steve's video.
Awesome job by the way makes me feel like I never want to open mine up on the inside lol.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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Wingsta wrote:Wow your amazing can I ask with the painting of the squares on the lower hold did you use the straight flat grey and flat red that they suggested or did you mix it with something else? The magazine says to mix a rust red but I couldn't find reference in the books or on Steve's video.
Awesome job by the way makes me feel like I never want to open mine up on the inside lol. I did use the gray (XF-53) straight out of the bottle, but the red was a mix of flat red and red brown (XF-64), then airbrushed over the gray. The paints they suggest are in issue 48, page 13
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Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/10/2015 Posts: 8 Points: 27
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colson wrote:Wingsta wrote:Wow your amazing can I ask with the painting of the squares on the lower hold did you use the straight flat grey and flat red that they suggested or did you mix it with something else? The magazine says to mix a rust red but I couldn't find reference in the books or on Steve's video.
Awesome job by the way makes me feel like I never want to open mine up on the inside lol. I did use the gray (XF-53) straight out of the bottle, but the red was a mix of flat red and red brown (XF-64), then airbrushed over the gray. The paints they suggest are in issue 48, page 13 Thanks so much Colson no one was able to tell me and issue 48 doesn't spell out what's a mixture and whats not. I bought all the Tamiya paints suggested I just didn't see where they listed what needs to be mixed with what. Did you do majority red then a touch of red brown? I appreciate your response immensely :)
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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Wingsta wrote: Thanks so much Colson no one was able to tell me and issue 48 doesn't spell out what's a mixture and whats not. I bought all the Tamiya paints suggested I just didn't see where they listed what needs to be mixed with what. Did you do majority red then a touch of red brown?
I appreciate your response immensely :)
Yes, mostly flat red. And airbrushing over the gray added to the color as well. You are right, it doesn't give mixing instructions. For the yellow, I also did not use straight yellow. To bright. I dirtied it up a bit with a touch of red brown as well.
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Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/10/2015 Posts: 8 Points: 27
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colson wrote:Wingsta wrote: Thanks so much Colson no one was able to tell me and issue 48 doesn't spell out what's a mixture and whats not. I bought all the Tamiya paints suggested I just didn't see where they listed what needs to be mixed with what. Did you do majority red then a touch of red brown?
I appreciate your response immensely :)
Yes, mostly flat red. And airbrushing over the gray added to the color as well. You are right, it doesn't give mixing instructions. For the yellow, I also did not use straight yellow. To bright. I dirtied it up a bit with a touch of red brown as well. Thanks Colson, I figured we are just suppose to mix it by eye but thought I would ask someone as I don't have much model experience. I re-painted a Revel AT-AT Walker then went straight onto this one as my second model lol. Probably not the best idea but thought what the hell. Thanks again for the tips :)
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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No photo update. Just a verbal one. I'm through issue 84 now. I don't really see a need for posting photos of the mandible assembly since we all kinda get it now, and there's no modifications going on there. Should get my pack 82 in the next week or so. Then I'll post some photos once both mandibles are fully assembled. This stage of the model kinda sucks. Just a lot of waiting around for the next set of pieces to arrive before you can really do anything.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/07/2016 Posts: 59 Points: 181 Location: Biloxi, MS
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Speaking of mods...has or is anyone planning on modding the 4 holes in the top of the mandibles? I know in the studio model it was where 4 allen screws went to secure the rods in the front. Our model just has shallow holes that go directly to the frame. Wondering if anyone was crafting either immitation screw heads, filling the holes, or putting some other small greeblie there.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/08/2016 Posts: 45 Points: 138 Location: Maryland
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TheKraken wrote:Speaking of mods...has or is anyone planning on modding the 4 holes in the top of the mandibles? I know in the studio model it was where 4 allen screws went to secure the rods in the front. Our model just has shallow holes that go directly to the frame. Wondering if anyone was crafting either immitation screw heads, filling the holes, or putting some other small greeblie there. I'll let you know when I get there. In 10 months!
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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Well, here comes the first snag from modifying the interior hold. Attached is a page from the instructions for issue 89, and for those of use who have added lighting to the floor, photo etch and added greeblies beneath the hatch, there could be some more modding to come. Until the parts are received, it's difficult to tell exactly what will need to be done, but it will definitely interfere with the way the hold is secured to the bottom frame. This is gonna be fun. Some creative retro-fitting. See attached photo.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/08/2015 Posts: 276 Points: 817 Location: Monrovia, Ca
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I think I will wait before I do anything to the underside of my cargo hold. I'm sure you will come up with a unique solution to make everything fit together nicely. I will be watching with interest. Stephen Current Builds: HMS Sovereign of the Seas /// Lamborghini Countach /// Eaglemoss BTTF DeLorean
Finished Builds: Millennium Falcon
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/06/2015 Posts: 76 Points: 228 Location: Lancaster, CA
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I had a feeling somethin like this might happen. Looking forward to see the great fabrications. Tamiya 1/32 P-51D, Revell 1/32 Bf 109G-6 x2 1/32 P-51B, 1/32 Trumpeter Bf109K-4, 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109E, Testors 1/32 F-117, RMF 1/35 Tiger 1
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/07/2016 Posts: 31 Points: 95 Location: California
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Hi Colson, first your Falcon is gorgeous. I can only hope mine will be half as good.
Question, did you or will you be light blocking the whole inside of the falcon? I plan on adding landing lights and have seen some guys prime the inside and then spray with silver paint. If so what paints would you use?
Thanks
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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Turbowars wrote: Question, did you or will you be light blocking the whole inside of the falcon? I plan on adding landing lights and have seen some guys prime the inside and then spray with silver paint. If so what paints would you use?
Thanks
I've been working on the red hazard lights, but I am not doing the landing lights, except for the ones that come with the kit. Although, I may not even have those active. Not sure yet. As far as the rest of the landing lights go, for one, the position of the lights would interfere with the metal frame work. And I plan on having my Falcon in a flight position, so I don't really want a ton of light all around the bottom anyway. Having said that, if I was doing the lights, I'd probably be painting the inside of the Falcon with black to block light for showing through. I'd cut the holes, use clear plastic rod cut about 1/4-1/2 thick and place over the hole, then put a smd LED on top of the rod to shine through that and out the landing light hole.
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