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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Thanks to Mr T I managed to get hold of one of Bandais 1/16 traction engine kits.Awesome detail in this kit.I am going to build it and also use it as a template to scratchbuild a 1/8 scale version. darbyvet attached the following image(s):
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Great looking kit Carl. If the detail on the kit is like the artwork on the box then it'll be a fabulous display piece... Look forward to seeing this coming together...
Regards
Alan
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Thanks Alan,
the surface detail is really good,especially considering the age of this kit.I think in 1/8 scale it will be really eyecatching.It will be a huge effort to scale this up though.
Carl
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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This'll be an interesting build to watch Carl as will your 1:8 scratchbuilt project, I look forward to seeing your progress on both. Very nice.
Kev
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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darbyvet wrote:Thanks Alan,
the surface detail is really good,especially considering the age of this kit.I think in 1/8 scale it will be really eyecatching.It will be a huge effort to scale this up though.
Carl
You might want to consider these assembly/improvement points based on the instructions before setting to work.
For improved authenticity, the gold plated pipes should be copper finished to reflect reality, only the fittings should remain gold/brass.
Step 6 - Part D41 has a small area to glue, better to add a length of 1.25mm rod glued into a hole drilled into the steering wheel.
Step 9 - Remember to mount the chimney the right way round to accept the exhaust pipe D21.
Step 10 - Replace the moulded tap handle and rod on part A1 with 075mm rod for more realism. Also paint the fire box matt black only up to the line of double rivets and back axle box.
Step 11 - Sand off the moulded drain pipe lines on the boiler side and replace at Step 17 with copper wire fitted onto the F22 & F23 taps.
Step 14 - The cylinder block should be firmly fixed with extra glue from inside the boiler. The holes for the piston should be slightly enlarged to allow for paint and movement.
Step 16 - Involves a lot of moving parts, glue and heat treatment none of which mix well. You can eliminate movement problems by using plastic rivets.
For example: D27 had the small peg cut off and a 1/32 hole drilled in its place then a small 0.75mm rivet made and pushed through, D25 then slid onto the rivet which is then cut, leaving just enough above the surface to creat a rivet head. Use a hot flat blade screwdriver tip to create the river head.
This procedure can be repeated on all the remaining moving parts including D6, 7 & 8. This gives less risk of locking up the assembly with glue and if you make a mistake it can be easily undone by cutting off a rivet head. The use of "Calibre 35" resin rivets in 0.70mm might also be worth considering.
Step 17 - The bearing troughs on parts A1 & A2 need cleaning out with a round file to give smooth running of the crackshaft. As with steps 15, 16 & 17, several dry runs should be made locating any tight points and curing them with a file or emery paper.
The drain copper wire pipes can be fitted at this stage, roughly bent to shape and epoxied to the bottoms of the taps, the final shape being adjusted once the epoxy is hard.
Step 18 - The cog C15 should be fitted with its dished side outwards, it runs better this way. Parts D47 & D49 should be glued on before painting to avoid an unsightly joint.
Step 19 - The tow bar D45 has a tow pin moulded into it. The pin can be cut off and another hole drilled in its place, then for authenticity make a new pin that resembles a large flat head rivet.
Step 22 - The brake blocks have slightly sloppy locations and they should be inclined as far forward as possible to prevent fouling the wheels when added.
Step 25 - Part G32 is awkward to attach at this stage, try and fit it before adding the steering wheel.
Step 26 - Pay particular attention to the gear wheels noting position of shoulders on hubs, fitting the correct way round for the Left and Right wheel sides.
Steps 28/29 - The wheels should be completely assembled before fitting to the axles, gluing both halves of the rims and clamping until dry. The wheel spokes can then be wriggled into position but be sure to get the locating pins right.
Step 31 - When you fit the steering chain around the steering roller do not tie it in knots as the instructions suggest. Instead, lay the chain in a continuous coil. Fix one end first then wrap around until the other end can be joined leaving a nice slack loop, if too tight, undo one turn and if too loose add another turn.
One criticism of the roof canopy authenticity, the underside of the canopy in the kit is depicted as having simulated wood slats side by side. In reality these slats should be spaced apart as depicted in the photo below, the space being roughly the width of a slat. To add realism, you could opt to lay lengths of thin wood veneer strip alternately laid and paint black between. The veneer strips will also add depth to the look of the slats.
All of the above (with exception of the wheels) also applies to the Bandai 1/16 "Road Roller" version which is based on the Traction Engine kit.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Thanks Mr T,
it is quite a complex kit and always good to have some tips for building.
I have been at a bit of a loss to figure out how to scratchbuild the wheels, but I found some PVC pipe the right diameter so i will use that and some brass strip to make one wheel half and spoke and then cast it in resin to make the wheels.I plan on using a clear perspex rod under the main body to support the weight of the engine so it wont matter that I am using resin for the wheels.
Carl
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Carl and Mr. T,
I found this last picture very interesting. My research had confirmed that the roof was constructed with slats and spaces, not solid. But this is the first photo I have seen with detail. What beautiful woodwork. What do you think the material over the slats was, or is? I had fealt that given the 1919 time period it was probably tenting canvas material painted gray but I really have no idea. Your thoughts?
Mr T, what other gems of photos of the engine are you hiding? Carl best of luck with your scratch version. This is an exciting model and so much of it can actually work! A lovely 1/8 ModelSpace subject, Yes??
Tom
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The normal canopy method was a wooden framework with linen canvas on the top which was PVA coated to stretch/seal it, then painted in a colour of choice. There would be a textured finish to it which is why the plastic canopy has a slight texture feel to it.
The canopy underside photo is on the side of the orginal box (white background), there was two version of box art for this kit, the second is shown in darbyvet's photo above, which only has colour photos of the completed model and without the real canopy photo, no idea why, but I am guessing that Bandai realised they had dropped a clanger showing a photo of the real canopy which exposed their error, hence the removal of this photo from the box art of the second production run.
The Pendle Princess is mentioned in the Tom Varley Wiki page re ownership etc
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tom_Varley
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Some useful ref photos of a similar Garret showman's engine..File Attachment(s): Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Some cool photos there Tom, very nice and I especially like the one of the oil can - an essential part of any traction engine driver's tool kit!!
Kev
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Carl and Mr T,
Great pictures Mr T.
The oil can detail was neat but don't forget the roll of toilet paper either!
These also answered a question I posed last July about the dynamo being accurate and it is. Thanks for that also.
I remember the decals being bad to silver even back in the 70's. I trimmed all the pin stripping decals to remove extra film. I seriously doubt my hands are steady enough to do that anymore. Just a small heads up. Oh, more thing more: the adhesive gold foil tape for the boiler bands worked very well and have held up for 35 years plus.
Tom
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