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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Pack 11 contains Stages 60 – 65
Stage 60 – Bodywork stickers, mirrors and flywheel
Parts supplied:
Bodywork stickers
Engine cover insert
Engine cover insert sticker
Mirror parts
Flywheel
O-rings, Body clips, Washers, 2 x 4mm screws, Self-locking nuts 3mm, Anti-friction pads.
In this stage, you will be working with the body and engine cover insert stickers and the mirror parts, so store away the rest of components supplied – such as the flywheel, the anti-friction pads and the body clips – until they are needed. You will also need the bodyshell from Stage 52.
Peel the engine cover insert sticker from its backing sheet, then apply it to the engine cover insert.
Remove the protective film from the sticker on the engine cover insert, also remove the clear protective film from the rear of the bodyshell, then place the engine cover insert into the matching hole at the rear of the bodyshell. To make it stick better, gently warm it with a hair dryer, this will soften the material and make it adapt more easily to the shape of the bodywork.
Locate the mounting posts on the two mirror supports, and use a caliper to check the width of each one: it should be around 4.5mm. The mirror supports can be identified by the letters ‘R’ or ‘L’ moulded on them.
Apply the mirror stickers to the mirror backs.
Apply a drop of contact adhesive to other side of each mirror back. Stick the backs into the corresponding mirror housings.
Apply glue to the posts projecting from the mirror housings then push the posts into the corresponding holes in the supports.
At the front of each door there is a recess for its mirror. Carefully cut through the centre of each recess with a small reamer, and then enlarge the hole to just under 4.5mm in diameter.
Using a thin file, create a notch at the front of each hole to match the post on the mirror support.
Insert the post of one of the mirror supports into its hole in the body then place an O-ring over the end of the post on the inside of the bodyshell.
Place a washer over the end of the post and secure it with a 2 x 4mm screw.
Remove all of remaining protective film from the bodyshell, so that you can apply the stickers, begin by applying the windscreen and door window stickers to the bodyshell.
Use the hair dryer to smooth out any wrinkles, and if there is an air bubble, pierce it with a pin. The rest of the stickers will be used in a later stage.
Stage 60 complete.
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Stage 61 – Clutch and bodywork screws
Parts supplied:
Clutch shoes
Pilot shaft
Screws 3 x 8mm
Clutch spring
In this stage, you continue assembling the engine and the bodywork. First, you will fit the clutch to the engine, bringing it closer to completion, and then you will add components to the bodyshell and apply more stickers to it.
As well as the parts supplied with this stage, you will need the engine (Stage 59) and the flywheel and nuts (Stage 60).
Take the flywheel and place it over the tapered collet, with the pin facing away from the crankcase then tighten the pilot shaft onto the end of the crankshaft.
Hold the flywheel with parrot-nose pliers and tighten the pilot shaft with a 10mm wrench.
Pass the hook at one end of the clutch spring through the eyelet at the other end.
Place the two clutch shoes together using the holes as a guide, hold them together and place the spring into the groove around the outer edge.
Now place the clutch over the pilot shaft and push it down against the flywheel. The pins on the flywheel should enter the corresponding holes in the clutch shoes. The inner diameter of the clutch is smaller than the diameter of the pilot shaft, so you will need to open it with needle-nose pliers.
You will now need the bodyshell (Stage 60), and the nose and tail panels (Stages 1 and 2). Remove the protective film from the two panels, and then apply the sticker to the nose panel.
Cut through the centres of the four recesses in the nose and tail panels, using either a reamer or a 3mm drill bit. Open each one to a diameter of 3mm.
Open up the two indicated holes in the front of the bodyshell to a diameter of 3mm.
Place the bodyshell onto the nose, aligning the indicated holes in both. Insert a 3 x 8mm screw into each of the holes, then turn the assembly over and tighten a nut onto the end of both screws.
Now open the hole at each side of the bodyshell to 3mm. Make sure that these holes align with those in the nose then fix the panels together with screws and nuts, as in the previous step.
Open up the four holes in the rear of the bodyshell to 3mm in diameter then fit the tail panel. Align the four holes of both parts, and secure them with screws and nuts, as before. Then apply the two stickers to the tail panel.
Next, apply the stickers to each side of the bodyshell, just behind the doors.
Stage 61 complete - store the remaining stickers for use in future stages.
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Stage 62 – Pinion gears.
Parts supplied:
Pinion gears 15/20T
Ball bearing
Roller Bearing
Washer
Screw 3 x 10mm
The parts supplied with this stage are more components for your Huracán’s engine, including the pinion gears that will form the basis of your model’s two-speed transmission.
Along with these parts, you will need the engine assembly from the previous stage, a small Phillips screwdriver and some multipurpose grease.
Fit the pinion gears over the clutch, and push them up against the flywheel. Apply a small amount of multipurpose grease to the roller bearing then insert the roller bearing into the pinion gears, over the end of the pilot shaft.
Place the washer onto the shank of the 3 x 10mm screw and insert the screw into the end of the pilot shaft, and tighten it into place to hold the bearing and pinion gears in position.
Stage 62 complete.
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Stage 63 – The Engine mounts.
Parts supplied:
Spring washers
Screws M3 x 12mm
Engine mounts
Screws M3 x 10mm
The parts provided for this stage include the engine mounts and the fixing screws with which you will fit the engine onto chassis plate of your Huracán. Avoid over-tightening the screws when you fit the engine to the chassis, as you may need to adjust its position at a later stage.
Place the four spring washers onto the shanks of the four M3 x 12mm screws then insert the screws into the holes on each side of the crankcase. Then apply a drop of thread lock onto the shank of each screw.
Take one of engine mounts and place it under the screws on one side of the engine. Tighten the screws into the holes in the top of the mounts.
Next, fit the second engine mount to the other side of the engine.
Place the engine onto the chassis plate with the pinion gears on the right.
Fix the engine to the chassis by inserting the four M3 x 10mm screws into the underside of the plate and tightening them into the bottom of the engine mounts.
Stage 63 complete
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Stage 64 – Rear differential.
Parts supplied:
Differential grease, O-ring, Rear differential case, Side gear,Grub screw, O-ring, Shim, Rear adjustment eccentric, Pin, Ball bearing, Differential shaft.
With this stage, you have received more components for the rear differential. Before you begin assembling it, you will need to retrieve the other rear differential components from Stages 18, 27 and 28. Then follow the steps in Stages 10, 13 and 14 – which showed you how to assemble the front differential – to assemble the rear differential. Once you’ve completed the rear differential, follow the steps in this stage to fit it in place.
You will now need the main driveshaft and right rear suspension mount assembly (Stage 40), the left rear suspension mount and self-tapping screws (Stage 23), all of the parts provided with Stage 18, and your newly assembled rear differential.
Remove the E-ring holding the 18T pulley in place at the end of the driveshaft, and then remove the pulley and the pin.
Place the flared spacer onto the driveshaft, then insert the pin through the hole in the shaft. Now fit the 21T pulley onto the shaft, and slide it along so that the pin sits in its recess. The pulley shoulder, spacer and E-ring will be used later.
To prevent the pin sliding out of the hole, you can apply a small drop of superglue to it.
Prepare the pulley shoulder, spacer and E-ring. Place the rear drivebelt onto the rear differential, then fit the pulley shoulder onto the driveshaft and push it up against the 21T drive pulley.
Insert the rear differential into the hole in the right rear suspension mount, so that the pulley on the differential is aligned with the pulley on the driveshaft. Now pull the drivebelt over the 21T pulley on the driveshaft. The rear adjustment eccentric allows you to adjust the belt tension, but, for now, place it in the position closer to the rear axle.
Place the second spacer onto the driveshaft.
Fit the left rear shoulder onto the driveshaft and the rear differential.
Push the ball bearing into the recess in the shoulder.
Press an E-ring into the groove in the driveshaft to lock the bearing in place. Insert the pin back into the hole at the end of the driveshaft, then put the 18T pulley back into position and fix it with the E-ring.
Locate the two holes in the chassis plate behind the engine. These will accommodate the two posts on the underside of the shoulders; the other four holes will house screws.
Mount the differential/driveshaft assembly on the chassis plate, with the posts of the shoulders in the correct holes. Tighten the four self-tapping screws into the holes either side of the posts.
Slightly loosen the four screws that hold the engine support to the chassis plate, to create a gap between the pinion gears and the driveshaft gears. Place some tissue between the teeth of the gears, then push them together and retighten the screws. The correct distance between the pinion and gears is when the wheels are close enough to leave deep marks on the tissue without tearing through it. When you have the engine in the correct position, tighten the four screws that hold it in place.
Stage 64 Complete
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Stage 65 – Right front driveshaft
Parts supplied:
Driveshaft
Flanged nut
Hexagonal drive washer
Pin
Stub axle
The parts supplied with this stage transmit the drive to the right front wheel. They will allow you to fit the right front hub carrier, shoulder, upper and lower arms and disc brake, which will complete the right front suspension assembly. This stage is similar to Stage 44, so you can refer to that for more details.
In addition to your new parts, you will need the right front side frame (Stage 9), the right front lower arm assembly (Stage 37), the front brake disc (Stage 47), the right front hub carrier assembly (Stage 8) and the right front upper arm (Stage 44).
You will also need a small Phillips screwdriver and a 2.5mm Allen key.
Place the lower arm into the right front side frame. Align the holes of the two parts, and slide the pin through the holes.
Now align the holes of the upper arm with those in the right side frame, and slide the second pin through them. Remove the upper plate from the model and place it to one side. Hold the right side frame up against the front differential, placing the front adjustment eccentric into the corresponding recess in the frame, with its projection in the central notch.
Secure the plate to the front bumper. Now take the hub carrier and tighten the two ballheaded screws into the holes in the upper and lower arms.
Insert the stub axle into the hole in the centre of the hub carrier.
Loosen the ball-headed screws to allow enough space to fit the driveshaft.
Insert one end of the driveshaft into the stub axle and the other into the cup joint on the left-hand side of the differential. Then partially retighten the ball-headed screws.
Stop tightening the screws when a few threads are still showing: the axle shaft must have a play of about 1mm. Insert the pin through the hole in the stub axle.
Place the hexagonal drive washer over the stub axle and pin then tighten the flanged nut onto the end of the axle.
Fit the upper plate back into position, and secure it to the side plates with the two screws.
If you didn’t fit the brake disc to the hub carrier in Stage 47, do so now. The brake caliper must face towards the rear of the model.
Stage 65 complete.
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Pack 12 contains Stages 66 – 70
Stage 66 – Rear tie rod
Parts supplied:
Ball-headed screws
Ball ends
Tie rod
With this stage, you have received the parts for the second rear tie rod. This rod will enable you to fit the rear upper arms to your Huracán’s chassis, along with many other parts, and this will complete a large portion of the build.
You may need to adjust or remove some parts during the build, but this will only involve loosening some screws. Keep any temporarily removed parts and screws safely until you need them again.
In addition to the components supplied with this stage and your partly assembled chassis, you will need the two lower arms from Stages 36 and 50, and the tie rods from Stage 42.
Assemble the tie rod as shown in Stage 42, and adjust distance between the ball ends to about 2.5mm.
Tighten a ball-headed screw into the hole at the top of each upper arm, then tighten the ball-headed screws into the upper holes in the suspension mounts. Now place the ball ends of the tie rods onto the ball-headed screws on the mounts.
Now you will need the servos from Stages 43 and 51, with their horns, as well as the 3 x 8mm screws, 2.5 x 6mm screws and locking nuts from Stage 49.
Remove the screws that secure the servo mount to the chassis plate then remove the two screws that hold the top plate to the front side frames. Remove the servo mount from the chassis plate.
Now place the servo horns onto the servos. To find the correct position, place the horn on the servo and centre it. Then move the horn to the left and then the right: it should stop at a little over 90° when turned to either side. This is the correct setting. If it turns further one way than the other, then you will need to adjust it.
Secure the bracket to the steering servo with a 2.5 x 6mm self-tapping screw. Insert four 3 x 8mm screws into the holes at the side of the steering servo and then tighten a nut onto the end of each one. Don’t fully tighten the nuts onto the screws. Place the steering servo onto the servo mount, sliding the nuts into the grooves in the mount.
In order to tighten two of the four screws, you will need to remove the tank from the servo mount.
Fit a ball-headed screw to the outer hole of the servo horn then tighten the four screws to secure the servo to the mount. Now you will fit the throttle/ brake servo to the servo mount.
You will need only the four 3 x 8mm screws to secure the throttle/brake servo to the servo mount. Use a 2.5 x 6mm self-tapping screw to secure the servo horn to the servo.
Remove the receiver box cover. Pass the servo cables through the hole in the side of the receiver box. Lower the servo mount back onto the chassis plate.
Now you can install the steering servo saver (Stage 45) and its tie rod (Stage 24). Locate the hole near the front of the chassis plate. Place
the servo saver shaft over the hole and then tighten the 3 x 10mm screw through the bottom of the plate into the shaft.
Tighten three ball-headed screws into the circled holes in the servo saver. Retrieve the two steering tie rods and their respective ballheaded screws from Stage 42.
Tighten the ball-headed screws into the holes in the hub carriers (one each side). Fit the tie rods onto the ballheaded screws. Position the free ends of the tie rods next to the servo saver shaft then place the servo saver onto the shaft. Push the ball ends onto the ballheaded screws on the saver.
Place the servo saver tie rod (Stage 24) onto the ball-headed screw at the side of the saver, and the other end onto the steering servo horn.
Put the top plate (removed in Step 9) back into position, and secure it with the same screws.
Secure the servo mount to the chassis plate with the screws you removed in Step 9. Retrieve the three screws (two 3 x 16mm and 3 x 10mm) from Stage 5 and tighten them into the three rear holes of the top plate. The shortest screw must be tightened into the centre hole and into the servo saver shaft.
Now you will fit the main drivebelt (Stage 17). To ensure you have enough room to wrap it around the main pulley (24T), loosen the screws holding the intermediate driveshaft and the receiver box.
Wrap the belt around the main pulley (24T) at the front, and the small pulley (18T) at the rear. Adjust the belt tension using the tensioner. Re-tighten the screws that you loosened in Step 34.
This is the end of this stage, so store your assembly safely until you start the next stage.
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Stage 67 – Throttle and brake linkages
Parts supplied:
Brake lever
Brake piston
Brake rod tube
Guides
Phillips screw 3 x 10mm
Screw 2.5 x 10mm
Spring
Collars
Grub screws
Throttle rod
Brake rod
Switch
The parts supplied with this stage will connect the throttle/brake servo to the throttle and the brake. These parts fit between the servo mount and the rear suspension. You will need to remove some parts from the assembly temporarily.
In addition to the new parts, your main assembly, and the two lower arms of the rear suspension you will need the rear bumper, the upper plate, the 3 x 10mm and 3 x 8mm screws from Stage 30.
You will also need a 1.5mm Allen key and a small Phillips screwdriver.
Screw the brake piston onto the threaded end of the throttle rod, then place a collar onto the throttle rod, use a grub screw to secure it. Then place a guide and the spring onto the rod, and secure them at the end with another collar and grub screw.
Tighten a 2.5 x 10mm screw into the hole in the guide and into the outer hole in the throttle/brake servo horn. Cut the brake rod tube in half.
Place the second guide onto the brake rod and secure with a collar and grub screw. Tighten a 2.5 x 10mm screw into the hole in the guide and into the inner hole in the throttle/brake servo horn.
The precise set-up of the two rods will be adjusted later on. To make the grub screws more secure, apply a little Loctite to them.
Remove the four screws that hold the engine to the chassis frame, and place the engine to one side.
Place the top plate (Stage 30) over the brake piston and onto the rear suspension mounts. Secure the top plate to the two mounts by tightening 3 x 10mm screws into the four holes. Place the brake lever onto the top of the brake piston, and secure the brake lever to the piston with a 3 x 10mm screw.
Pass the free end of the brake rod into the hole at the end of the lever, place a collar onto the end of the rod and secure it with a grub screw. Now take the lower arms and align them with the corresponding points at the bottom of the suspension mounts.
Pass the arm pins through the aligned holes, and insert the driveshafts into the ends of the differential shaft. Place the free ends of the tie rods onto the ballheaded screws on the hub carriers.
Place the rear bumper up against the backs of the suspension mounts, aligning the holes of both parts. Tighten four 3 x 8mm screws into the holes in the rear bumper to secure it to the suspension mounts.
Complete the installation of the bumper by fixing it to the base with the last 3 x 10mm screw. In order to fit the brake disc to the left hub carrier, you may find it easier to disconnect the tie rod.
Retrieve the disc brake and the two 2 x 5mm screws from Stage 47, and fix the disc to the hub carrier as you did with the other discs.
Once finished, reconnect the tie rod.stevie_o attached the following image(s):
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Stage 68 – Second rear shock absorber.
Parts supplied:
All parts to build the second rear shock absorber.
With this stage, you have received all the parts for your second rear shock absorber. Its assembly is exactly the same as that for the previous shock absorbers, so look back at Stages 2, 16 or 41 for the instructions. When you’ve assembled it, the following steps will show you how to fit all four shock absorbers to the shock mounts.
Before starting, you will need your main assembly, a Phillips screwdriver, the front and rear shock mounts, the front and rear body mounts, the three shock absorbers from earlier stages plus the one you’ve just assembled, and the screws from Stage 7.
Fix the rear shock mount to the rear suspension mounts with two 3 x 10mm self-tapping screws. Now remove the ball-headed screws from the ball ends of two of the shock absorbers. Insert these two screws into the central hole of the groups of three holes.
Do not fully tighten the screws into the holes, but leave a length of the shaft visible. Take one of the shock absorbers and push the shock absorber top onto one of the ball-headed screws on the shock mount.
Now push the ball end at the other end of the shock absorber onto the lower arm. Repeat the above to fit a second shock absorber to the rear suspension.
Take one of the rear body mounts and place it at the end of the right shock absorber mount, align the hole in the body mount with that in the shock mount, and then fix them together with a 3 x 10mm self-tapping screw. Repeat this process to fit the second rear body mount to the left shock absorber mount.
Place a rear body support onto one of the rear body mounts, aligning the hole in it with the lowest hole in the mount. Tighten a 2 x 8mm screw into the hole in the support, securing it to the mount. Repeat this on the other side of the model.
Place the front shock mount onto the front side frames, aligning the holes of both. Secure the mount to the side frames with two 3 x 10mm self-tapping screws. Don’t over-tighten them, because that can damage the plastic.
The mount already has one ball-headed screw in it from a previous stage. Take another ball-headed screw and tighten it into the central hole of the set of three.
The ends of the ball-headed screw should be flush with the back of the mount. Now take the two remaining shocks and push the tops onto the ball-headed screws in the mount, tighten the adjusting nuts of all four shock absorbers by a turn or two, to give the springs a little pre-loading.
You will adjust these pre-loadings in the final stage.
Now push the free ends of the shock absorbers onto the ball-headed screws on the lower front arms. If there is no give, or too much resistance, in the suspension, then slightly loosen the ball-headed screws that hold the hub carriers to the suspension arms. To do this, first remove the brake discs.
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Stage 69 – Rear wheel and tyre.
Parts supplied:
Wheel
Lamborghini badge sticker
Hubcap
Tyre with foam insert
The parts supplied with this stage are the fourth wheel and tyre of your Huracán. Before you begin work on the following steps, assemble the fourth wheel just as you did the other three: see the instructions for Stages 1, 6 or 34. Remember that the arrows of the tyre tread must point forward, and make sure that you have two right and two left wheels, and that you fit them to the correct sides.
After assembling your fourth wheel, prepare the engine (removed in Stage 67), as well as the exhaust system, 3 x 28mm screws and washers (Stages 38 and 39), and the air filter and oil bottle (Stage 46). You will also need some pliers, side cutters, a 5.5mm socket wrench, a knife, 2mm and 2.5mm Allen keys, and a short cable tie(not supplied or pictured).
The first thing to do is to connect the silencer to the engine. Insert the two 3 x 28mm screws and washers into the holes on each side of the
crankcase. Now take the manifold gasket and place it over the ends of the screws, up against the engine exhaust port.
Place the manifold up against the gasket, tightening the two screws into the two corresponding holes. After you use the model for the first time, you will need to check the screws and the seal between these parts to ensure there is no leakage.
Now place the engine back into place on the chassis plate, aligning the pins with the holes. Secure the engine to the chassis with its four screws. Before tightening, adjust the coupling between the pinion and gears, following the directions given in Stage 64.
Now apply the Lamborghini badge stickers to the hubcaps. To do this, remove the stickers from the sheet with the tip of a knife, and place them on the hubcaps, centering them carefully.
Now you can fit the wheels to your model. First, remove the flanged nuts from the ends of the stub axles. Place the wheel onto the hexagonal drive washer, and then tighten the flanged nut back onto the end of the stub axle with a 5.5mm socket wrench, then fit the four hubcaps onto the flanged nuts.
Now install the air filter. To lock the air filter onto the carburettor, it is recommend that you use a cable tie. Apply the tie around the base of the filter, before fitting the air cleaner, push the ball end of the throttle link onto the throttle slide.
Place the filter onto the top of the carburettor. Make sure the rubber completely covers the opening of the carburettor.
Pull the cable tie tightly around the bottom of the air filter, to ensure a good seal then cut off the end of the tie.
Apply a small amount of oil to the filter sponge and insert it into the filter, as in Stage 46. Prepare the hose from Stage 30 and cut it into two lengths, one to go from the fuel tank to the carburettor and the other from the fuel tank to the exhaust (as seen in Step 21). Push one end of the longer tube onto the outlet on the manifold.
Push the other end of the tube onto the nozzle on the tank cap. The second tube should be fitted to the nozzle at the rear of the tank. Push the other end of the tube onto the fuel inlet on the carburettor.
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Stage 70 – Headlights and rear lights.
Parts supplied:
.Headlights
Rear lights
Headlight lenses
Rear light lenses
Double-sided tape (grey)
Double-sided tape (transparent)
Double-sided tape strips
The components supplied with this stage are the final parts of your Huracán, with which you can complete your model. This stage is divided into three parts. In the first, you fit the headlights to the body, and then fit the body to the chassis; in the second, you complete the radio control system; and in the third, you make the final adjustments and get your Huracán ready for the track.
The areas into which the headlights will fit are slight recesses in the nose. Mark each area with a pen to make it easier to it cut out.
To begin cutting the outline of each headlight, drill a small hole in one corner. Then use a knife or small scissors to cut along the outline that you marked and remove the cut-away plastic.
Refine the edges of the headlight hole with fine-grain sandpaper. Test-fit the headlight against the hole you have cut, to check that the hole is the correct size and shape.
Now take the headlight lenses and gently remove the protective film that
covers them. Apply the transparent double-sided tape to the edges of the lens – this requires precision.
Now place the headlight lens up against the inside of the nose and line it up with the hole. Press the double-sided tape against the nose. Apply the grey double-sided tape to the two headlamps. Remove the protective film from the double-sided tape.
Refit the nose to the rest of the body, and then fit the two headlights to the inside of the body.
Use a pen to mark the cutting lines for the rear lights on the tail section of the body.
Cut out the holes for the rear lights from the tail section of the body. Make a hole with a drill, then cut along the lines and smooth with sandpaper.
To help them fit snugly in position, the two rear light lenses are partially trimmed. Test fit the lenses in place before proceeding. Cut the double sided tape strips to fit along the edges of the rear light lenses, make sure you position the strips on the correct side. Now cut the doublesided tape strip into two pieces and apply to the rear lights.
Fix the rear lights to the inside of the tail, just below the top edge. Now refit the tail to the body.
To complete your work on the bodyshell, cut out the holes in the tail section for the exhaust tailpipes. The shapes of the holes are well defined on the tail, so this operation is not particularly difficult.
You will now need the four anti-friction pads and the four body pins from Stage 60. Place the pads on the body mounts.
Fit the bodywork onto the model, passing the exhausts through the holes in the tail, and the body mounts through the corresponding holes in the body.
To secure the body to the model, you simply pass the body clips through the holes in the body mounts. Don’t do this yet, though, because you still need to access the inside of your model.
Now you’ll need the switch supplied with Stage 67. Screw the switch into place on the servo mount, between the two servos.
To reach the two switch wires inside the box and to fit the battery pack, you must loosen the screws that hold the RC box to the frame, then pass the switch cables through the hole in the RC box.
Connect the battery to the receiver terminal marked by the letters B/C. Then connect the steering servo to channel CH1 and the throttle/brake
servo to CH2. Before fitting the receiver and battery pack, you may want to place a thin layer of sponge in the bottom of the box to dampen potentially harmful vibrations. Once all of the connections are made, place the cover onto the box and screw it into place. Then retighten the screws you loosened.
In this final section, you will make some small adjustments to prepare your model for use. These will serve as a starting point from which you can refine the settings further, adapting the running of your Huracán to fit your style and different tracks.
Move the throttle rod, securing it to the central hole of the servo horn from below. This will allow you to move the brake rod to the outer hole of the horn, giving the brake rod more room to move. Add a collar (Stage 67) behind the brake rod guide: this will make it easier for the rod to return to a neutral position.
Cut off the end of the shaft of the ball-headed screw on the steering servo horn, to reduce the chance of it catching on anything. Look out for any other screws that are on or close to moving parts, and trim them down as well.
Your Huracan is now complete.
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