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 Rank: Master      Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/07/2015 Posts: 1,292 Points: 3,928 Location: Allentown PA
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Is anyone planning on painting the frame on their kit? It strikes me as odd that it comes in orange. Is there a reason for this? Does it have something to do with the original Cobra? Seems black would have been a better choice, but honestly I am not a Mustang buff so I don't know the details of classic Mustangs.
DeAgostini kit builds:
Millennium Falcon: 18% Complete
Shelby GT-500: 28% Complete
Thunderbird 2: 13.75% Complete
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2015 Posts: 273 Points: 792 Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota USA
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Definitely painting mine. That orange is horrid. Not sure why they molded it in that color. Maybe for contrast? Ron Best Regards,
Ron
On the bench: DeAgostini '67 Ford Shelby Mustang, Hachette Space Battleship Yamato 2202, Agora Models T-800 Terminator
Finished builds: DeAgostini Toyota 2000GT
In the Stash: Losing count...
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 Rank: Amateur level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/01/2016 Posts: 46 Points: 131 Location: Pennsylvania, U.S.
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Actually, the "orange" is supposed to represent red oxide primer. That was a very common chassis primer for Ford during the '60's. From what I've seen, it looks about right for what it's to represent.
Here are a couple pics I have of a '67 Mustang Shelby from underneath...............
This looks to be a fully restored car with the driveshaft markings and all in place.
When I get to this part of the WIP on mine, I'm going to leave the color alone, but I would like to add brake/fuel lines and whatnot. You mentioned that the chassis is molded in plastic----that's great news as it'll be easier for me to drill holes for brackets, hangers, etc.
Hope this helps!
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Correct as per the above. If you change it then it won't be authentic as its meant to represent red oxide.
What Ford did originally on the Mustang is paint the entire underside red-oxide primer, then painted the body colour, some of which ended up on the chassis as overspray. Then they painted the rocker panel seam and the engine compartment semi-gloss black which would also have oversprayed onto the red oxide.
To be concours-correct by MCA standards, you need to have body colour overspray around the perimeter edges of the chassis underside and the black too.
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 Rank: Super-Elite    Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,227 Points: 12,826 Location: ipswich
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If you want to be correct and still improve the look, paint the underside with red primer from an automotive shop.
I'll be using Halfords red oxide primer.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/01/2016 Posts: 46 Points: 131 Location: Pennsylvania, U.S.
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Tomick wrote:Correct as per the above. If you change it then it won't be authentic as its meant to represent red oxide.
What Ford did originally on the Mustang is paint the entire underside red-oxide primer, then painted the body colour, some of which ended up on the chassis as overspray. Then they painted the rocker panel seam and the engine compartment semi-gloss black.
To be concours-correct by MCA standards, you need to have body colour overspray around the perimeter edges of the chassis underside. Correct!
I recently finished a 1/25 scale '67 Mustang GT in which I did that very thing. Back in those days there were no robots to paint the undersides all nice and even. Good 'ole fashioned hand painting is mostly how it was done, and the painters could only get so much underneath the car, thus the overspray.
Here's a pic of how I tried to duplicate that look.......of course, here in the rust belt a lot of those cars would later be undercoated with "rustproofing", so the chassis floor would be black anyway.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Great result and love the added details. Well done and thanks for sharing!
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Looks fantastic, well done!
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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After seeing what you've done with your 1/25 Mustang MrIbsessive I'm not really excited to see you get started on this 1/8 beast
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/01/2016 Posts: 46 Points: 131 Location: Pennsylvania, U.S.
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davetwin wrote:After seeing what you've done with your 1/25 Mustang MrIbsessive I'm not really excited to see you get started on this 1/8 beast LOL! Well, I hope to get that sort of detail on this 1/8 scale and then some! Is the chassis in fact molded in plastic? If so that would make my job easier. If not, than I'll have to get ready to go through some drill bits as sometimes pot metal is not too kind to certain types of bits.
Thanks for all the nice remarks fellas! As you can see in my sig, I've posted a link to my Fotki page which has all the models I've tackled so far. Since this will be a very long drawn out build, I'll probably have a couple "regular" models done in addition to this one.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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MrObsessive wrote:davetwin wrote:After seeing what you've done with your 1/25 Mustang MrIbsessive I'm not really excited to see you get started on this 1/8 beast LOL! Well, I hope to get that sort of detail on this 1/8 scale and then some! Is the chassis in fact molded in plastic? If so that would make my job easier. If not, than I'll have to get ready to go through some drill bits as sometimes pot metal is not too kind to certain types of bits.
Thanks for all the nice remarks fellas! As you can see in my sig, I've posted a link to my Fotki page which has all the models I've tackled so far. Since this will be a very long drawn out build, I'll probably have a couple "regular" models done in addition to this one. The bulk of the chassis so far is metal, parts of it are plastic though. I don't think you'll have too much difficulty drilling through it though with the right drill bits
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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It does actually mention in the magazine that the chassis colour of the model is that of the original car’s chassis — see the ‘Stage Complete’ box on page 15 of Issue 6.
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/07/2015 Posts: 1,292 Points: 3,928 Location: Allentown PA
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Thanks guys for the responses and photos. I don't have issue 6 yet and after I saw the photos I did a search but all the images I came up with where chassis that were completely black. While I am not "planning" to paint it concours I do want to make sure areas are correct color. That also brings up topic of the leaf springs. I have never seen silver leaf springs before
DeAgostini kit builds:
Millennium Falcon: 18% Complete
Shelby GT-500: 28% Complete
Thunderbird 2: 13.75% Complete
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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I suspect that the images you are seeing are later changes made by owners
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1  Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/08/2016 Posts: 56 Points: 164 Location: Tyler, Texas
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Anyone that does paint their frame, please post some pics here. I'm only on pack 1, so I've got a few months to think about it before I'm getting any frame parts, but I'm leaning towards painting it and then doing the overspray to make it authentic. Current DeAgostini Model Space Builds:
Millennium Falcon; Sovereign of the Seas, Ford Mustang Shelby
Current "Other" Model Builds:
Bandai 1/12 C-3PO (Japan Import); Revell 1/48 X-Wing "Master Series"
On The Shelf Waiting to Be Started:
Revell 1/72 Millennium Falcon "Master Series"; Bandai 1/12 Boba Fett; Bandai 1/72 Y-Wing Star Fighter; Bandai 1/72 A-Wing Starfighter
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 Rank: Beginner Level 1  Groups: Joined: 19/10/2016 Posts: 7 Points: 21
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i think i will paint it either black or dark blue on mine. the orange is too flashy for me, and im not making it period correct anyway.
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