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 Rank: Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 2,065 Points: 6,295 Location: Gorleston-on-sea
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Tomick, I'd like to pick your brains please mate. In your build instructions where you had prepared the hull for planking...The section of the keel below the transom (the triangular section) ...I saw your picture of where you faired it, but can not quite make out what parts are reduced to 2mm? Hope you can help ,me here mate...much obliged... Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...
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Joined: 08/05/2010 Posts: 236 Points: 808 Location: Manchester
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Yeah, Id like an answer to that as well. Not sure how it looks, maybe a side elevation photo and an angled one will answer it. I cant make it out in the photo. i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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jonny7england wrote:Tomick, I'd like to pick your brains please mate. In your build instructions where you had prepared the hull for planking...The section of the keel below the transom (the triangular section) ...I saw your picture of where you faired it, but can not quite make out what parts are reduced to 2mm? Hope you can help ,me here mate...much obliged... Hi Jonny7, Steps 6/7 of issue 20 notes the thinning in an arc shape of the bottom of the false keel at the Stern. Basically the false keel as it stands is 4mm thick, the task is to reduce ist thickness at the stern in an arc shape to 2mm thick which spans the bottom of frames 27-31. In effect you end up with a 1mm thick arc shaped ledge on either side of the false keel at the stern, where the bottom of frames 27-31 are also smoothed to meet with the ledge of the arc, any adjustment can be made later on. The arc thinning can be done using the corner of a sanding block, mark the arc and sand to line, just ensure that the sanding is done equally on both sides of the false keel (only removing 1mm from each side) and that the thickness of the arc ends up being 2mm thick. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 2,065 Points: 6,295 Location: Gorleston-on-sea
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Thanks very much Tomick for your very timely reply mate, I fully understand the process now...cheers mate..  Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/05/2010 Posts: 236 Points: 808 Location: Manchester
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Thansk tomick i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
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Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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Dear MR T or anybody I understood about the false keel which is suppose to be shaped to 2mm when I get to it but I'm confused about sanding the frames or fairing the hull as it is called on page 105 my question is mostly in the stern area where it says on part 3 page 108 it says sand the transom so that rib 34 follows the lines of the stern post, I don't mean to sound dumb, but which part is the transom is it part # 34 by any chance, I would appreciate any light on this subject, also would is safe to sand that area with a small sander or use a course file or sandpaper instead thank you Ronald
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 Rank: Elite    Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Have you had a look at the videos? 15 mins on. Fairing and planking
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Hi Ron, the transom is just another term for the stern area. If you look at the Official Build and the Official Video build you will see how the stern area should look when you have completed the fairing process. As for fairing the stern, hull and bow areas, I wouldn’t attempt this task with anything other than sanding sticks or blocks using various grades of sandpaper, starting with a course grade to get the rough shape gradually moving down to a finer grade as you get closer to the finished article. Take it slow and easy. Trying to do this using a small sander would in my opinion be asking for trouble as you’re likely to remove too much wood very quickly. Keep using a test plank throughout the fairing process with the aim of having the planks running smoothly along the hull, around the bow and under the stern. There are some excellent guides to the principles of hull fairing and would suggest you take a little time out and study these carefully, they’ll help you achieve the results you desire and give you a good understanding of the overall process. Have a look and if you’re still unsure then please get back to me… Some links for you to look through: http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=19140
http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=5669
Regards Alan
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thanks Alan for the information and the links Abd I will stick with using sanding sticks and file Ronald
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Joined: 08/02/2015 Posts: 426 Points: 1,259 Location: Louisiana
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Hi Guys I'm finished with the transom now and working on the narrowing the back end of the keel where it suppose to get 2mm thick,question does the 2mm thickness curve has to be perfect I've got the curve correct but I'm having a hard time trying to get the 2mm thickness evenly I'm getting different thicknesses in different places, any suggestions thank you Ronald
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ronald305 wrote: Hi Guys I'm finished with the transom now and working on the narrowing the back end of the keel where it suppose to get 2mm thick,question does the 2mm thickness curve has to be perfect I've got the curve correct but I'm having a hard time trying to get the 2mm thickness evenly I'm getting different thicknesses in different places, any suggestions thank you Ronald Hi Ronald, narrowing the keel at the stern in an important part of the build. The keel has to be narrowed evenly from both sides until it is 2mm thick throughout the curved section. It is a time consuming process and one you should do with care. I used a wide rough file to start with to remove the bulk of the material, changing to a fine file and finally fine sandpaper, constantly checking the overall thickness as I went. When narrowing the keel it is also important you don't chamfer the stern edge. Care during the fairing stage will pay dividends later in the build. Post a couple of pics if you can to let us see how you're getting on with it... Hope this helps. Regards Alan
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