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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
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Hello, I am new and this is my first post. Although, I am not new to building models, I am new to putting metal models together as the DeAgostini Shelby. I love this model from the first time I seen someone post it on the SAAAC forum. I received my first 4 kits and assembly instructions and I seem to be having trouble with the tiny screws threading all the way in the holes. I found out pretty fast that there isn't any threads for the screws and I'm having a hard time getting the screws to bottom out without stripping the phillips head first. I attached a 1/4" socket and ratchet to the small phillips screw driver that came with the kit. But, to no evail, the threads are still stripping. Can anyone elaborate on what they have done outside of tapping each hole!!! Any help appreciated, Rich BTW, I just got started and my headlight lens already popped out  I hope that I don't spend a fortune on this model to be like this for the whole assembly!!
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 Hi Rich First off welcome to the forum and your building a great car. There are a couple of ways to get round the thread tapping you can use the spare screw to tap the holes doing this by quarter turns to tap then back a quarter and so forth until you get the right depth. The other way is to buy a mini tap and die set and use this to get good threads, there are loads on fleabay if you search for mini tap and die sets. I have added a link to the UK fleabay to give you an idea of whats out there:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/sc...ap+and+die&_sacat=0
Andy  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Vice-Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/08/2012 Posts: 997 Points: 2,813 Location: Down in the vale of Bedfordshire
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Welcome Rich. I'm also building this great kit, I've not had any issues with the screws but like Andy says buy a tap set or gentle screw in the screws a bit at a time. I have found in the past adding a bit of petroleum jelly to the screw thread before you start will help it cut into the metal better. As to the headlights I did have the same issue they popped out, just add I very small drop of ca glue and that will help. Hope you enjoy the rest if the build and I look forward to seeing what you do. My Favourite Building:- 1919 https://forum.model-spac...=339517&#post339517 -
Current Build - 0-6-0 https://forum.deagostini...=351803&#post351803 Enterprise D - https://forum.deagostini...=posts&t=35768&
Built:-. HMS Bounty, RMS Titanic, MP4-23, Flying Scotsman, Aston Martin DB5, Honda CB750, Mustang, R2-D2, Jaguar, DeLorean, Testarossa, Stage Coach plus many plastic kits.
Dry dock no room to display:-. Bismarck, U96.
To build:-. HMS Hood. HMS Victory. Cutty Sark. SoS, Lancaster bomber. DR1 Triplane. JU-87. Plus many many plastic kits.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
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Thanks guys, the information is invaluable. I think I'll go ahead and get a small tap and die set. I was doing the 1/4 turn then backing out a 1/4 turn, but the phillips head was still stripping a little bit. Also, I'm going to try the petroleum jelly. Again, Thanks a lot guys, Rich
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
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Ok, I'm back. LOL, I'm no expert on metric threads and don't have a clue how to order a miniature metric tap and die set. When I went on ebay, I brought up the metric tap and die sets and don't understand it. I don't know what the metric sizes 2.3x3mm, 1.2x3mm mean that are a few sizes in the Shelby kit. I see sizes like M1.6x0.35, M3x0.5, etc., but I don't see anything related to the sizes 2.3x3mm, etc., Remember, I live in the USA and we use standard inch measuring here. Any help in understanding metrics will be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! Rich
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 Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Hi Rich Firstly welcome to the forum I'm sorry to hear you're having issues with the screws and headlight lens, it's not something I've come across before on here and haven't encountered myself on my build. If you do need to glue the lense then I would recommend using something like Glue and Glaze or Revell Contacta Clear as these are designed especially for gluing clear parts. With regards to the screws I can only echo what others have advised with regards to using a lubricant and slowly turning the screws a quarter turn at a time, backing out then turning some more, although I haven't had to do this for any of my screws yet. I'm curious if you have perhaps tried a different screwdriver to see if that helps? Reading the screw sizes is a simple, case of width x length, so a 1.2x3mm screw would be 1.2mm wide by 3mm in length, after a quick google search I found this table that shows the converted Metric to Imperial sizes I can't give any advice myself on tap and die sets Im afraid as it's not something I have ever used before.
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Hi Rich Any of the mini tap and die sets available will be ok to use. As for understanding metric sizes the 'M' notation like M2X3.5X3mm just stands for metric thread at 3.5mm diameter. Dont worry too much about depth as the holes will be deep enough to be tapped at the required depth. The sets come in set standard sizes from M1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2, 2.2, 2.5 mm. The M1= 1mm diameter, going up in diameter sizes to M2.5mm. For example you have a screw M1.6X0.35 so the number you need for the correct tap is M1.6 the second number generally denotes the length of the screw to be used. This is a general description to give you an idea of how to find the right Tap, hope this helps. Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,506 Points: 13,678 Location: ipswich
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Hello there - welcome to the mad house...
I've found (after a long time building giant car models) that the best and easiest way to get screw to cooperate is to bin the cheapie screwdrivers that usually come with a part work and buy a set of good quality small tools.
There are loads out there that aren't mental-money.
Frequently people are using a driver that is actually a fraction too small or too big for the screw head.
Result - sloppiness in the driver/screw mating point and the top of the screw gets ruined.
"It fits, so it must be right." WRONG.
There are lots of different sized screws in the kit, yet you get one screwdriver that is supposed to fit them all - ?
My screwdrivers - I have about two dozen very small, different ones - have been acquired over the years and I don't have bother with screws.
You don't need that many screwdrivers but my advice - get a small set of quality ones. They have bigger and better handles too, easier to hold and use, and they'll last you for years.
Roy.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
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arpurchase wrote: Hi Rich Any of the mini tap and die sets available will be ok to use. As for understanding metric sizes the 'M' notation like M2X3.5X3mm just stands for metric thread at 3.5mm diameter. Dont worry too much about depth as the holes will be deep enough to be tapped at the required depth. The sets come in set standard sizes from M1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.4, 1.6, 1.8, 2, 2.2, 2.5 mm. The M1= 1mm diameter, going up in diameter sizes to M2.5mm. For example you have a screw M1.6X0.35 so the number you need for the correct tap is M1.6 the second number generally denotes the length of the screw to be used. Andy I understand your description, but the size of 2.3x3mm that is denoted in the kit, where does it fit in to the sizes you describe? I don't see a 2.3 any where in the metric charts. I only see 2.2 size. Thanks for any help, Rich
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
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roymattblack wrote:Hello there - welcome to the mad house...
I've found (after a long time building giant car models) that the best and easiest way to get screw to cooperate is to bin the cheapie screwdrivers that usually come with a part work and buy a set of good quality small tools.
There are loads out there that aren't mental-money.
Frequently people are using a driver that is actually a fraction too small or too big for the screw head.
Result - sloppiness in the driver/screw mating point and the top of the screw gets ruined.
"It fits, so it must be right." WRONG.
There are lots of different sized screws in the kit, yet you get one screwdriver that is supposed to fit them all - ?
My screwdrivers - I have about two dozen very small, different ones - have been acquired over the years and I don't have bother with screws.
You don't need that many screwdrivers but my advice - get a small set of quality ones. They have bigger and better handles too, easier to hold and use, and they'll last you for years.
Roy. I have several different size phillips screw drivers but still the phillips head wants to strip out. I am going to try the petroleum jelly. And also back out 1/4 turn on each turn. Thank you all. Rich
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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If it helps these are the only two screwdrivers I use with this build, also the only two I use with my Lamborghini build too. They are Chrome Vanadium which I have had for about 15 years. I have just measured the ends, the black part just behind the phillips head, with my digital calipers and they are; Small: 3mm Large: 5mm You can get a very good grip with these, both of which I have never had an issue with head stripping. The only issue I have had is with the large screwdriver as its very easy to over tighten a screw, in my case I overtightened it to much and sheared the whole head off  I would certainly recommend a decent set of screwdrivers before going down the die and tap set. Make sure the screwdriver is a phillips, the left one in the picture below, and not a posidriv as a posidriv would certainly strip the head. davetwin attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
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Thanks all, I just purchased this mini screwdriver set on ebay. I seen a lot of the videos through the DeAgostini website on youtube using this particular set. I think I'll give it a try. rpmracing18 attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,506 Points: 13,678 Location: ipswich
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That looks pretty good.
A nice buy.
If you plan building some big kits in the future - and there are some beauties out there - a decent set of tools is a no-brainer.
Why spend upwards of £800 on a kit, then skimp on the tools to build it?
Have HUGE fun with your build. Enjoy it and don't be afraid to re-paint or add detail to the bits as you go. After all, it's in weekly parts.
You have 7 days to go mad with the bits to hand...
Roy.
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Looks like the same screwdriver I use in the official build and should be the answer to your problems. I think your difficulties lie in the fit and grip of your screwdriver and although a tap set is useful the right screwdriver should make taps unnecessary in this particular build. Good luck with the rest your build Steve
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Hi Rich,
welcome to the forum.I am forum support for USA so let me know if I can help in any way.I have the screwdriver set you bought.It is very nice.I also have a tap and die, but dont use it much.I find that if you use the right screwdriver and go slowly you can usually get the screw in.Make sure the screw goes in straight.I recommend getting a screwstarter for the fiddly screws (there are a ton of them on amazon) .It holds the screw into the end of the driver and steadies it so it does in straight.it will save you a lot of frustration.The screws are soft metal and it is easy to strip them or break the head off.If you are feeling a lot of resistance when screwing you need to back off.
Good luck with the build and I hope you will consider posting some pictures of your build on the forum.
Carl
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,506 Points: 13,678 Location: ipswich
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...That last sentence but one - I've heard that said somewhere before... 
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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roymattblack wrote:
After all, it's in weekly parts.
You have 7 days to go mad with the bits to hand...
Roy.
In USA the Mustang is only available as a monthly subscription Roy.We dont have the local newsagent readily available as in UK so the weekly option is not available. Carl
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
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Thanks all. Yes, I plan on posting photos of my build as I go. Very excited of my DeAgostini Shelby build!!!!
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