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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2015 Posts: 1,419 Points: 4,272 Location: Darmstadt, Germany
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The Junkers Ju87 is one of the most iconic and fear inducing aircrafts to participate in World War 2. The so called Stuka (for Sturzkampfbomber "dive bomber) dominated the first half of the war with its precision bombing capacity and versatility while striking fear in its targets through the use of so called Jericho sirens which produced the Stukas distinctive howls during an attack. In 2010 Hachette released a subvariant of Ju87 as a partwork, depicting variant G2, the so called "Kanonenvogel" or cannon bird specifically built to destroy Russian T-34 tank columns with the two 3,7cm canons strapped to its belly. Developed by Amati, Hachette intended for this model to be a full metal version of Ju87 akin to Imcth skeleton model kits, but bigger, more detailed, more robust and with an option to be clad in metal skin. Things didn't quite work out this way. Along the way of this build log we will see how things broke down. Hachette never rereleased this kit after the initial run in Germany and so this kit has become rather rare, especially a completely unbuilt one. I have spent one and a half years to get my hands on one. So without further ado, let's "dive in". Issue 1 delivers the first parts for the cabin floor and the instrument panel. The panel shown here is actually built up out of 7 individual etched brass pieces to give it a more 3D look. The next 4 issues all deliver various stringers and frames to build up the lower half of the crew cabin. All of the brass etch has little notches grabbing onto each other, so when combined with CA this builds up into a remarkably strong structure. Fit is of course incredibly good, it is an Amati model after all. There is no push or pull or other exchange of pressure anywhere. Things just fit. So far nothing out of the ordinary except for the coolness of the whole thing. 52 parts.
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2015 Posts: 1,419 Points: 4,272 Location: Darmstadt, Germany
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Well, not exactly nothing out of the ordinary. One thing I should mention it that in issue 3 three frames arrive which LOOK symmetrical at first glance, but are not. Failing to put them in the right way around will lead to major problems way later into the build. Unfortunately the instructions neglect to mention this little detail. They also show the parts installed the wrong way around. So, we're off to a good start then.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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This'll be an interesting build to watch. The only other attempt I've seen at building one of these was done by a rather less than adequately skilled person on another partworks forum, which really didn't look very good and didn't do this kit the justice that it deserves!!
I am sure you will make a much better job of it Michael and I will be watching all of the way. Well done on a great start and thanks for posting this excellent build!!
Kev
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2015 Posts: 1,419 Points: 4,272 Location: Darmstadt, Germany
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I'll admit, it's very very easy to wreck this kit. I only work on it when I'm able to absolutely focus on it exclusively with a wake and clear head. The combination of flimsy metal and CA glue gives ample opportunity to mess things up bad.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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If you are going to paint it, then personally I would solder rather than use CA. There's lot of brass weight in this kit, which over time the CA will go brittle and the build start coming apart, many have found this with the Flying Scotsman kit which was assembled in a similar manner. A good idea to use a fast set Epoxy instead. "Carr's 188 solder paint" is fantastic to use on brass kits and is commonly used by the brass loco builders. http://www.finescale.org...t/category&path=455
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2015 Posts: 1,419 Points: 4,272 Location: Darmstadt, Germany
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Tomick wrote:If you are going to paint it, then personally I would solder rather than use CA. There's lot of brass weight in this kit, which over time the CA will go brittle and the build start coming apart, many have found this with the Flying Scotsman kit which was assembled in a similar manner. A good idea to use a fast set Epoxy instead. "Carr's 188 solder paint" is fantastic to use on brass kits and is commonly used by the brass loco builders. http://www.finescale.org...t/category&path=455 At this time I'm planning on doing a skeleton build, which is why I've opted not to solder. I don't like the look. At all. Fun fact: I've never seen anyone who started soldering actually finish this kit. They all burned out, wrecked it or otherwise dropped off the earth. It's like with the black pearl where people were spending months upon months on prettying up the ship stand, but never actually finishing more then the start of the lower deck. The way the cabin frames are laid out they look like they're currently self-supporting. I'll go for epoxy where structurally advisable (and visually possible). Hope dies last and all that. ;-)
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Well done on your find i bet you are very happy after searching so long. Seen bits and pueces of this model being built but will follow your updates with great interest and wish you lots if luck with the build. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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greyhawk wrote:Tomick wrote:If you are going to paint it, then personally I would solder rather than use CA. There's lot of brass weight in this kit, which over time the CA will go brittle and the build start coming apart, many have found this with the Flying Scotsman kit which was assembled in a similar manner. A good idea to use a fast set Epoxy instead. "Carr's 188 solder paint" is fantastic to use on brass kits and is commonly used by the brass loco builders. http://www.finescale.org...t/category&path=455 At this time I'm planning on doing a skeleton build, which is why I've opted not to solder. I don't like the look. At all. Fun fact: I've never seen anyone who started soldering actually finish this kit. They all burned out, wrecked it or otherwise dropped off the earth. It's like with the black pearl where people were spending months upon months on prettying up the ship stand, but never actually finishing more then the start of the lower deck. I disagree, most that dropped out of the Stuka build were those that used CA and finding later on that the build was falling apart, much the same with the Scotsman. As for Black Pearl, there is a completed build here on our forum, clearly not as elusive as you imply.. http://forum.model-space...sts&t=5503&p=14
I wish you well with your Stuka build, you might be one of the rare few to actually complete it along with your Black Pearl build, look forward to seeing both in the Finished Build gallery
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2015 Posts: 1,419 Points: 4,272 Location: Darmstadt, Germany
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Tomick wrote:I disagree, most that dropped out of the Stuka build were those that used CA and finding later on that the build was falling apart, much the same with the Scotsman. As for Black Pearl, there is a completed build here on our forum, clearly not as elusive as you imply.. http://forum.model-space...sts&t=5503&p=14
I wish you well with your Stuka build, you might be one of the rare few to actually complete it along with your Black Pearl build, look forward to seeing both in the Finished Build gallery [/size][/color] Oh, there were a lot of completed Black Pearls, absolutely. I meant the ones spending a lot of time on the minutiae were the ones most likely to drop out. ;-) Thank you, it'll be an interesting experience for sure. The first hurdle is coming up later today were I get to paint some of the interal brass parts after all. I so do love painting metals and by love I mean hate.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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I have this kit too. I am planning To solder it. I have a resistance soldering device maybe I will do a build at the same time as you greyhawk
Carl
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/08/2012 Posts: 997 Points: 2,813 Location: Down in the vale of Bedfordshire
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I also have this kit, and when if I start this one it will be soldered. My idea was to do a half and half kit, one side completed and painted and the other showing the ribs and cables inside with the wings folded back to save space. Even with the open side if your good at soldering you won't notice the joints once they have been cleaned, filed and touched up with some paint. I agree with what Tom said about the Scotsman I built mine using solder and Carrs is the best to use. My Favourite Building:- 1919 https://forum.model-spac...=339517&#post339517 -
Current Build - 0-6-0 https://forum.deagostini...=351803&#post351803 Enterprise D - https://forum.deagostini...=posts&t=35768&
Built:-. HMS Bounty, RMS Titanic, MP4-23, Flying Scotsman, Aston Martin DB5, Honda CB750, Mustang, R2-D2, Jaguar, DeLorean, Testarossa, Stage Coach plus many plastic kits. Dry dock no room to display:-. Bismarck, U96. To build:-. HMS Hood. HMS Victory. Cutty Sark. SoS, Lancaster bomber. DR1 Triplane. JU-87. Plus many many plastic kits.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Im another with this kit m I have been researching soldering brass as I've decided that is the way I'm going to go, will also be painting it too Great start to your build
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I'd love to see this one completed, have seen a few started but that's as far as they've gotten..... Look forward to following your progress as I think this is a great looking kit and in the right hands will look fab when done.... Good luck with the build.....
Regards
Alan
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2015 Posts: 1,419 Points: 4,272 Location: Darmstadt, Germany
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Gandale wrote:I'd love to see this one completed, have seen a few started but that's as far as they've gotten... I completely understand why. The jump in difficulty from issue 5 to 6 is immense. One goes from "put metal strut x in slot y" directly to "bend this thing into all kinds of weird shapes (hope you got a pe bending tool), then bend this metal pipe in a very specific place into a very specific angle, then glue all this pe together that's smaller than half your finger nail, then prime and airbrush all this metal, good luck dude, hope you got a fully featured modelers workbench". I mean, personally I love it, but I can totally understand someone believing all the hubbub about "can be built by a novice by following our step-by-step instructions" and the poor novices mind going kablooie once reaching this issue.
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2015 Posts: 1,419 Points: 4,272 Location: Darmstadt, Germany
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Got the hint, guys. Did just order a soldering iron and a "learn how to solder" kit.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Can't say I didn't tell you
Ensure you buy an iron with a high wattage that has assorted bits, preferably one that ranges from 50-200 watts. Brass will act as a heat sink which may mean the solder will not flow if the iron does not produce enough heat. For good results, its not as simple as buying any soldering iron
There are lots of "soldering brass loco" video's on YouTube which are a useful source of info, this info list is also a good start.. http://www.finescale.org...n&information_id=29
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/08/2012 Posts: 997 Points: 2,813 Location: Down in the vale of Bedfordshire
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I use this solder station when I do any white metal or brass work as its adjustable. http://www.maplin.co.uk/...cd-solder-station-a55kj
You'll also need to get some small metal clamps for when your soldering, as brass conduct heat very well the heat from the iron will mostly go along the brass. If you place a clamp either side of the joint your going to solder the heat will flow into the clamps, this will then stop any other joints near the joint your soldering coming undone. Also try solder paste, when your adding small brass bits place some paste onto the small bit then place that onto the piece your joining. The paste will act like a glue and hole the piece in place, then once you and the heat the paste will help the solder run along the joint and create a fine solid joint. If this is your first try at soldering don't worry if you place a bit wrong just add a little heat and the pieces will pop apart. Then just clean the area and redo. Good luck with the build. My Favourite Building:- 1919 https://forum.model-spac...=339517&#post339517 -
Current Build - 0-6-0 https://forum.deagostini...=351803&#post351803 Enterprise D - https://forum.deagostini...=posts&t=35768&
Built:-. HMS Bounty, RMS Titanic, MP4-23, Flying Scotsman, Aston Martin DB5, Honda CB750, Mustang, R2-D2, Jaguar, DeLorean, Testarossa, Stage Coach plus many plastic kits. Dry dock no room to display:-. Bismarck, U96. To build:-. HMS Hood. HMS Victory. Cutty Sark. SoS, Lancaster bomber. DR1 Triplane. JU-87. Plus many many plastic kits.
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2015 Posts: 1,419 Points: 4,272 Location: Darmstadt, Germany
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Thanks for the tips guys. I actually DID solder electronics a bit when I was a kid 30 years ago; so hopefully things will come back quickly.
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/05/2015 Posts: 1,419 Points: 4,272 Location: Darmstadt, Germany
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6. Starting on the interior with the pilots floor window. This little thing is built up out of 18 single parts.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Looking very nice indeed. Hope the build continues to go well. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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