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 Rank: Amateur Level 1  Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2010 Posts: 31 Points: 86 Location: Bolton Lancs
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Hi guys, I am new to wooden ship building, only ever done plastic kits of ships and planes before, and a while ago at that. I have started the HMS Victory build, and i am up to fairing and subsequently planking, and to be honest i feel quite intimidated by it, i will however follow any constructive advice and hopefully learn as i go along. My question relates to the ribs and decks of the ship. some of the edges of the decks are proud of the ribs and some are short of being in line with the deck edge if you understand what i mean. This leads me to wonder which line to follow. Do I sand the deck edge to be in line with the ribs to get a flowing edge, or do i build up the ribs to meet the deck edge. Or is it a mixture of both. I dont want to start fairing if this needs addressing beforehand. Sorry if i dont explain myself too well but looking at it, if i sand the deck edge to the ribs, i dont think that would result in a flowing straight line ? Confused.... please can you help, or am i just talking rubbish ????? Have just read some other posts regards hull fairing. I think maybe the answer to my question is to put a couple of planks together and lay it on the frame, building up or sanding off as required. Is that right? Just concerned not to get a wavy hull. Thanks for your posts, helping already, all help gratefully accepted. 
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi adverse!  You are at the stage when a lot of people get confused the parts are far from perfect, the trick is to use a spare plank to check the ribs. If you need to remove a lump then sand, if you find that a rib is dipped in build it up. Don't just follow the deck as parts of the deck will stick out and need to be sanded back so your planks will fit, as for the gaps were the ribs are wider than the deck this isn't a problem with the lower decks. If you need more help just ask, we are here to help, check the build diary section for information and you will see how others have solved these little problems.
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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hi dave,the way your thinking has nearly solved the problem,it is a combination packing and sanding,where do you start?well try and get a lond strip of something the length of the hull,offer it up to the ribs,then decide one rib at a time which way to go,on my build,I have used card(red) to pack out to get an even flow along the lengh of the hull,I then drill the plank (.05mm) then pin,do not glue yet!now check to see no wavy lines,you can ease the plank out slightly on the pins,then pack where you need to.when all nice and curvy then glue,don't forget to bevel the edge of the next plank so it butts up nice and tight to the last one. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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 Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Hi Dave
It can be intimidating which is why I broke the fairing down into 18 sections - Starboard & Port x Stern, Bow & Midships x Above decks, gun deck & keel. That allowed me to concentrate on a small part at a time.
I used a test plank moving it up and down the rib and looking from above and below to check for gaps. I bought some metre long 5mm x1 mm strips for packing as they did not need shaping. For larger gaps (on 2 of my ribs) I used the planks supplied which had to be soaked, steamed and shaped. I also pinned these to the ribs as well as gluing. Remember it’s always safer to pack and rub back rather than rubbing high spots down so check and double check.
The trick is patience and attention to detail, test every centimetre and if there is a dip pack it, however, check the other ribs either side first in case they are high.
Generally, I ignored the decks and worked on the ribs. If the decks were proud I took them back but if they were short I left them but this only occurred at the bow and stern.
Once you have finished you can check the sections together. I used a metre length of flexible plastic strip and also 3 planks I glued together, shaped for the bow. I used these later as my guide planks for the first layer.
If you take care and check every run you should be OK.
Hope that helps. Remember to enjoy every moment, it will be be finished in no time, and then we will have to buy anther one.
John
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Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2010 Posts: 31 Points: 86 Location: Bolton Lancs
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Tahnkyou for takng the time out to readmy post. Your coments are really helpful and i will take your advice on board ( no pun intended ). I suppose its mainly a case of taking that first step, then progressing slowly and methodically. I must admit it will be nice to see some progress and i am rather o.c.d. so rushing sholdnt be a problem.
Can i pick your brains again whilst i am on ? I considered investing in a keel clamp but they are rather expensive, alternative suggestions please ?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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A keel clamp is of little use for building the Victory, because the frames run to the bottom of the false keel, which means there would be nothing for a keel clamp to clamp onto, it could only be used once the real (exterior) keel has been installed, though being a huge model it puts a lot of pressure on what is a small strip, which in turn when working on the model may breakaway the hull from the keel. Once the hull is planked you can make full use of the supplied build stand for holding the model. If you are looking for a keel jig prior to planking, see post #14 of this topic http://forum.model-space....aspx?g=posts&t=166
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