Hi shipmates
I just had to get something down in words because I'm getting concerned about how my build is progressing.
I'm about 9 rows down the lower hull and despite all my efforts, my model is looking nothing like the photos I'm seeing of your builds. The planking is not as smooth as the ones I've seen on here and they don't seem to want to follow the lines of the frames, particularly on the compound bend at the stern and at the bow, where large gaps are starting to appear between the rows of planks and the frames they are supposed to be attached too. I'm pretty certain that I faired the hull correctly before starting, checking all the lines with a long piece of plastic strip which was able to bend around the curves, spending a great deal of time carefully sanding down the high spots and building up the low places with card and glue. Yet despite all the effort,I feel that I might not have bothered for all. I'm worried that when it comes time for sanding down, I'll have take take so much off to mate up with adjacent planks that I'll go right through the thickness of the plank, particularly at the stern where some 'clinkering' is now taking place. If I had the know-how, I'd post some pictures on here so you guys can see what's wrong, but for now I'm building up the frames where the gaps are ocurring and re-fairing in the hope that this will correct the problem.
I know if I can get past this vital - if daunting- stage of the build, it will give me much more appreciation of the work that I've had to put into it, and thanks for listening - sorry - reading this.
Happy building
Daffy09

Thanks Tomick,
That sounds like what's happening, although some of my planks are chamfered by up to 45 degrees. Perhaps I'm chamferring the wrong edge, I've been chamferring the upper edge of the plank, (the edge of the plank furthest from the keel). It worries me that if I chamfer the plank too much, I'll lose the straight edge of the plank and end up with gaps between layers which I want to avoid because of wanting to leave a natural finish to the build rather than painting it and filler would show up.
I'm glad now that I didn't go for planking the lower hull in walnut after taking some advice that it's much harder to work with than the supplied wood, and now that I know that copper will be available as an extra later in the build, I may go for this option instead although this would mean having a good base to work on anyway!
Regards
daffy09

Ditto shipmates. I faired the formers very carefully but still had problems with the planking emulating clinkerbuild. I solved this with a bit of card packing at some formers near bow and stern and even added some scrap planking to the bow formers and refaired. this helped a lot plus the use of droppers etc. At least with the thick single planking there is a bit of meat to allow sanding. This is now done and I am pleased with the result. Even though when there was a very low point I stuck another piece of scrap plank on top and then sanded back in order to reduce the amount of sanding to the surrounding planks.

I will post a pic shortly and you can judge for yourselves.

To be honest I found this much more rewarding than double planking because it was much easier to work with and shape the thicker planks. I also used soaking and soldering iron to bend and twist the planks at bow and stern. ( Only broke 2 when offering them up dry)

I think I have fallen in love as I can't leave her bottom alone. Can't resist running my hands over her.

Laury

Hi Paul, probably more tapering over longer lengths and or droppers required. They will lay flat more or less if you use these. I reread the instructions many times and refered back as often. I was thinking of changing my name by deed pole to Percy Vear.
I will post those pics but have to use a computer at another location to upload.
Laury

Hi shipmates!

Some of you are having a problem with the planking of the lower hull at the bow mainly the clinker effect. I've setup my hull with maple and walnut veneer planks to show you the amount of taper you would need to reduce the clinker effect. Don't worry the planks are just held in place by elastic bands and a clamp.

As you can see the planks have overlapped and shows the taper, at some points the taper needed is so great the plank goes to a point or is less than 2.5mm at the keel, here you would need to add a dropper plank as shown in the magazine.

I hope this helps you to understand your problem and what you need to do to fix it!

That's the way to do it Lee. Take your time and don't apply glue and pins 'til the little beggers sit right.

Here are the photos promised earlier. Unfortunatly the camera would not focus close enough to show the detail of the corrections used. The planking will of course be cut back at bow and stern to fit the relevant posts and false keel. This will remove the rough ends. I always wait till I have the parts before trimming to fit them, just in case.

By the way my most indispensible tools for the planking were: Davids plane, for chamfering and tapering, and digital calipers, for measuring the gaps and checking the width of the last 10-11 planks.