Hi
I think, that those paint are far too thick for airbrush. So you need to dilute them to consistency of milk (as you have to do with almost all modellers paints - maybe except Vallejo air paints), and then you need to prime the wood - I think. So far I was painting non primed wood using paintbrush and I'm very happy with results.

Personally, as first large period ship build, I would avoid going the route of airbrushing, simply because your model will in effect become an expensive test piece, you would be better off honing airbrushing skills on something smaller at less expense.
Ultimately airbrushing skill is something that comes with experience which is generally achieved over a number of model builds, and is not just a case of paint application but also careful surface preparation and masking, certainly airbrishing the Victory would be a steep learning curve; thats not to say don't have a go, more a case of pointing out that airbrushing your Victory might be something you might wish you had not started.

For my diary build the model is being brush painted, simply because the majority of builders will go this route.

To airbrush or not? I have had enough problems with bleed under masking tape on the cutter when using a paint brush. If one goes down the airbrush route I think sealing the surface first would be desirable as the thinner airbrush paint will be even more likely to bleed. What say the experts?

Bleeding definitely seems to be a problem with wooden models even with stains so I shall be sealing before painting any wooden surface even priming metal ones to achieve a good surface for painting.

Laury

Hi All

No matter how good the masking tape and I use Tamiya's all the time some bleed will occur if you just press it in place the amount depends upon how much you seal the edge to the model.

One way of preventing this is to seal the edge of the masking tape with the color under the edge of the masking tape. For instance say the color under the masking tape is royal blue use a brush to coat along the edge of the masking tape with that color leave to dry then apply the desired color onto the non masked area this will stop the bleed under the tape if sealed properly with the paint.

I also agree about the paint needing to be thinned down to a milky consistency for airbrush use I even thin down Vallejo's Model Air paint slightly. That being said for a period ship build I would recommend going down the brush painting route the real ship would have been brush painted so to get the same effect so should your model.

As for Airbrushing the smaller parts you can do this if you wish but they could start looking different to the rest of the model when finished, using a brush would probably be quicker anyway but its up to yourself really

Hope this helps.

Regards

Andy

Hi Ronald

The Admiralty Paints are designed for brush application and give a great finish if used this way, I bought the Victory set for my Agamemnon build and can say the paint looks good on her. Hope this answers your question.

Regards

Andy

Ok thanks Andy and tony
Ronald

This is an interesting discussion.

I sort of sit in both camps on this. As others have said I generally would paint the woodwork of a period ship, but increasingly see the benefit of airbrush for certain jobs.

I think much of the metalwork can be airbrushed and this gives an advantage with finish too. Increasing use of photo etch in wooden models gives more options regarding how to paint.

On the DeAg Victory I think you certainly could airbrush the volume metal parts such as the cannons and even the gallery balustrades and items such as the hammock net frames. As long as they are all painted in the same paint system and ideally at the same time you should have no problem, obvously this is much easier to do with the full kit versions rather than the subscriptions where parts are trickling in over time.

I would stick to painting the ships boats by brush.

Jase

Hi Guys.
I Am another modeller that sits in both camps on this post Having used spray gun to do the hull of my 1/200 Bismarc. also to spray my Victory Hull White before copper tiling. I agree with Jase to use spray gun on smaller parts of Victory build and may be the gun port wriggles.
I would personally hand paint the Victory Hull Stripes as there are steps and fenders areas where a spray gun may clog into to.
Ian