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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2    Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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BotY 2017 EntryHey folks, hope you all had a good Christmas/Holiday period  Been a while since I posted a build log, infact it's been a while since I built anything  So here is a good one to get my teeth stuck into. Tamiya 1/12 Ferrari EnzoI've already posted a short review of the kit, which is HERE but will go over it again for those that haven't seen it and/or don't want to jump to another topic and have to come back. (Yes one thing you will notice is I tend to waffle on, sorry about that  )This kit was released in 2005 as a semi-assembled premium model in both Red and Yellow, but was previously released in 2002 as a fully feldged model kit.  It has an impressive price tag, around £270-£350 depending on where you buy from, but is well woth that tag. (I bought mine for £252 as it was on sale at the time). Out of the box there is a huge amount of detail in this kit, mixing plastic/rubber(?)/Etch/cast metal parts, as well as various vinyl tubing and screws/nuts/bolts. There is also a fair amount of after market detail packs which add an incredible amount of detail to this kit. Length: 392mm
Width: 173mm
Height: 95mmI've also invested in a couple of after market sets for this, as well as a sheet of carbon fibre decal for a few small areas. (Inserts in the console, the front/rear diffusers etc). I won't be doing a full carbon fibre monocoque as after a little research on Ferrari's website these are optional extra's anyway. These two PE packs add extra detail to both the chassis, interior as well as replacing the break disks completely:  There is a further pack that adds all this plus additional detail to the damper assembly, but upon looking at the kit, I, personally, fail to see the point or difference. (Except the extra cost). Painting wise I will be using a mixture of Tamiya paints, TS sprays and Zero Paints. I've never worked with Zero paints before, and having tried a few experiments with them they are, well, they aren't the easiest to work with, they can be very unforgiving. But, get it right, and the result is well worth the effort. The body colour I have gone for is by Zero paints, and a colour matched Ferrari Rosso Corsa. Everything in the photo below has been bought specifically to construct this kit:  (Don't worry my frost guard was turned off when this photo was taken )Not really much else to say about this for now. More detailed pics are in my review of the kit as per above. Now, roll on Jan 1st so I can get started Cheers. 
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Looks a nice pile there along with a cool kit and good luck in the comp. I too will be using the two pack clearcote system on my model but I opted for the Diamond finish Set, vid below:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0j2Uz-Gq4c
Andy  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Should be a cool build. If your not used to working with Zero paints and already find thenm not the easiest to work with, it might be an idea to knock out a couple of small kit builds before tackling this high value monster of a kit, and especially so if your not used to using an airbrush.
Good luck with it
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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Personally I find lacquers to be the easiest paints to work with, the trick is to use low pressure and build up in thin layers but not wait very long between them so they have a good chance to bond together. The finish and durability are second to none. At this point I'd have to be really desperate to use acrylics for anything (with the exception of Tamiya "acrylics" which are lacquer-based and thin beautifully with lacquer thinners, especially Mr Color Leveling Thinner). A tip for using Tamiya "acrylics" to get a beautiful, gloss finish: thin with Mr Color Leveling Thinner, and then after spraying final cover, just mist-spray with pure MLT. It will even out everything and will give an amazing deep shine to the paintwork. Dry for at least 24h after that. Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Fantastic kit, looking forward to your build diary!
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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Thanks for the tips guys.
Tom I will indeed be investing in a small kit to practice with the Zero paints on. I will only be using them for the body on the Enzo so have a while to go before I get to that stage.
I might grab a Mazda Eunos from Tamiya as it is only a tenner from Wonderland.
Andy I had an issue with my single attempt at using the 2k clear coat, but again mainly due to my lack of knowledge with air brushes and inexperience of the product. I think the lack in quality of the airbrush, using too thin a nozzle, and being stupid enough to mix the clearcoat in the airbrushes cap caused the nozzle to get cloggy before I even started.
Lesson learned there.
Will have a few trial runs before I commit to the Enzo, and may even default to a Tamiya TS colour and top coat. (I discovered a Tamiya top coat will attack a Zero colour coat). Gives a great shine but creates tiny little "holes", what I can only describe as looking like mini craters but beneath the top coat.
In the mean time, if I find myself waiting...I also got another Aida kit, this time the updated version of the Blu, which I intend on improving upon my previous effort of lighting.
Cheers
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Superb looking kit, will definitely be following this one.... Good luck with it.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2016 Posts: 175 Points: 552 Location: Merseyside
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Love the kit  , I will be following your build. 2017 is going to be a good year on this forum Built- Shelby Mustang, Lamborghini Huracan
Building-Spitfire, Redbull racing RB7, 3d printer, Honda CB750, Stage coach and Revell 1/400 Titanic
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 Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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That's a gorgeous looking kit, I'm sure you'll do it it justice. Good luck with the Zero Paints
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Like the look of this will be following your progress, good luck with it. Al
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Looks awesome, Dom Really looking forward to this one, a polished finish is the hardest to master, no weathering equals no place to hide any mistakes  Steve
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/08/2010 Posts: 2,771 Points: 8,344 Location: Brighton
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Look forward to seeing your build. Ian Current builds.Hachettes build the bismark,HMS Victory, HMS Hood.
Finished Builds Corel HMS Victory cross section.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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Ooooh it's time to get cracking...no hangover to hold me back either, not sure how I managed that one Anyway, Happy new years guys and girls  I've been looking forward to cracking on with this, so have made a small start already. I am a big kid at times Just a note on my log, I will be (trying to) organise it by the order of the instruction steps, but I will be working on other bits of the build at the same time, so some detail in the photo's may seem out of sequence, IE, some parts of step 3 will be seen fitted in the pics of step 2 and so on...will make more sense when I get started. Good luck on everyone with their builds this year, whether they be BotY or not
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Great looking kit. Looking forward to seeing it take shape.
Malc.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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Day 1
Step 1
Well here we go. Before I actually started building anything, I wanted to sort out the dizzying array of small, little, tiny and even smaller screws as well as all the other parts that aren't plastic.
I ended up using 6 small plastic storage cases and 1 large one, yes there is that many!
The rest of my time spent today was in short bursts, as it was just preparing the main engine block and priming it, so there isn't a great deal to show just yet.
To get an even left-to-right finish on the engine block, I assembled the two halves together.
There isn't much in the way of mold lines that need correcting, just a small section on the front top end of the gearbox, so this was filled using Zero filler and sanded smooth using 600 and then 800 sandpaper.
Now it was time to get it primed. I am using Alclad white primer/microfiller for this. I have had to make do with my bottom-feed airbrush as I am still waiting on my replacement for my gravity-feed brush to arrive. Still gives just as good a coverage though, I just prefer the other one as there is less to clean/get clogged up etc.
And the engine block after a few coats of primer:
I've still a little more sanding to do on that round cake shaped thing on the top of the axle box...can you tell I don't know much about cars  But other than that, quite happy with the result thus far
And that's really all there is to say today. Thanks for reading.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Nice start to your build look forward to more updates. Al
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Nice to see this underway, watching with interest
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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You didn't waste any trouble me getting started All lookng good so far
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Great to see it get going, will be watching.... Regards Alan
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Nice start, I see your getting lots of water in your airbrush water trap something to keep an eye on as you may have high humidity in your shed. Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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