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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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I thought it would be a good idea to start a diary thread for my build but not because I have a great ship you all need to see. I realised that now I am planking and working on the parts of the boat that will be seen, I am keen to get this right and the number of questions popping into my head is steadily increasing. So rather than start a new thread for each one I thought it would be better if I could keep them consolidated in one place.
Also I have noticed there are many novices here just like me, so hopefully some of the answers will be of use to everyone.
I'll catch up with a few pictures of progress so far. Up-to-date pics to follow.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2010 Posts: 748 Points: 2,285 Location: bognor regis
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hi john very tidy build well done..just a thought,a few of us have replaced the anchor ring with a 12mm diameter ring,a while ago it was thought that the provided ring was not to scale and a bit small,the 12mm one looks better...keep it up mate..benny...ps i would change the name of your build cause it is far from a shambles cheers benny
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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benny wrote:hi john very tidy build well done..just a thought,a few of us have replaced the anchor ring with a 12mm diameter ring,a while ago it was thought that the provided ring was not to scale and a bit small,the 12mm one looks better...keep it up mate..benny... I actually finished the anchor with the ring bear as per the instructions. It was only after seeing the posts here that I put the pudddening on. I haven't got a lot of stock so I thought I would leave this one. Lots of other good ideas to implement though.
benny wrote:ps i would change the name of your build cause it is far from a shambles Give it time.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/09/2010 Posts: 851 Points: 2,565 Location: Walsall
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Hi John
Nice looking build, welcome and keep the pics comming
Foz
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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welcome john,feel free to ask any time,build is excelent,keep it up and more pics please. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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So here we are bang up-to-date. Would really be appreciative of any suggestions for improvement as always.
Here's the stern, generally OK I think for my first bit of planking but a little disappointed it wasn't better as I took care to get it right. What has become obvious though is that every hour I work on this build the more I learn.
Cut out the gun ports and made a couple or errors with the cutting so had to fill in with some pre-limning. Luckily I have already identified a location for the finished ship and it will be facing the other way although the paint should cover any mistakes.
As you can see I have adopted Colin's approach of not using any pins which has thrown up a whole load of challenges especially keeping the planks tight. As a result there are one or two gaps but it will get better from here on in.
Next lot of planks ready for bending and fitting. This build has already given me so much pleasure and cutting out the gun ports is almost therapeutic - is there really only a hundred to do?
Questions arriving soon. Thanks for your support, it really is appreciated.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/03/2010 Posts: 57 Points: 179 Location: bedford uk
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nice build john, looking good so far. im just at the fairing point so hopful of getting some planks on over the weekend.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Hi Darrend
Sounds good but don't set any targets, well not hard ones at any rate. If the fairing needs more time then carry on 'till your satisfied. You'll know when it's ready to move on and not before.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/03/2010 Posts: 472 Points: 1,357 Location: Hyde
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That's one nice and clean build. Great work mate. Keep them pictures coming.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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So to the first question then and it’s about tapering.
I am on layers 7, 8 & 9 and both the bow and stern plank of layer 7 need tapering. The instructions then say that the stern plank of layer 9 does not need to be tapered.
Does this mean that layer 8 and the bow of layer 9 should still be tapered or not?
As a general point on tapering, now that we have started planking I presume some differences will start to appear between the port and starboards sides, so should we be pragmatic and plank as the situation demands rather than try to keep both side symmetrical. I was thinking also in the use of droppers and stealers later on when planking the lower hull.
Hope that is clear.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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the question 'bout tapering,what I did was to keep the planks in line with the decks that way they don't rise up to steeply at the rear,so,I only taper when I feel I need to,and work out the tapers as I go to make all the tapers the same,hope you can understand my englese. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/10/2010 Posts: 511 Points: 1,459 Location: Loughborough
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As for the symmetry of the planking this depends on how myou are finishing the vessel, if you intend painting or copper plating the hull then this does not pose as such a problem, but if you are going to varnish her then the planking would look odd if not equal on both sides as the planking would be more prominent. hope this helps. Builds in progress: HMS Victory.HMS Surprise. Completed builds: Revell London Bus 1/24. Builds to do:Sovereign of the seas, Hms Albion.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Thanks guys, using the decks as a guide sounds good, if only they were there. I can use the deck supports on the ribs though I guess.
Not sure about the finish yet but it won't varnish whatever happens, but I am trying to build it good enough to varnish if I wanted to.
On the specific issue of layers 7, 8, & 9 perhaps I could ask Tomick what the procedure should be as that's where I am up to at the moment.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Tapering prevent's the planking from rising too rapidly, you'll need to taper to suit as you go along, some will need tapering others not, but its impossible to be specific regarding each build because of the variance in build style from one modeller to another.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Thanks Tom
So basically from layer 7 upwards it's up to me? Yes?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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No, there is specific tapering info noted at the relevant points, such as at step 3 of issue 24, which say's to prevent the planking rising too far around frames 12-14, the forward planking needs to be tapered from about frame 13 towards the bow by about 1mm, and step 6 says you should not need to taper the stern plank in layer 9; and in 26 there is tapering info relating to layer 10 onwards, if you follow issue by issue you should be fine.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Tomick wrote:No, there is specific tapering info noted at the relevant points, such as at step 3 of issue 24, which say's to prevent the planking rising too far around frames 12-14, the forward planking needs to be tapered from about frame 13 towards the bow by about 1mm, and step 6 says you should not need to taper the stern plank in layer 9; and in 26 there is tapering info relating to layer 10 onwards, if you follow issue by issue you should be fine. Do I need to taper the stern and bow in layer 8 and the bow in layer 9?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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It depend's on how your planking is looking at the bow/stern in L7 and at the bow in L8, if its are looking like the planking is starting to rise then taper, what you are trying to do is prevent the planking from rising too quickly at the bow and stern in relation to the centre span.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Thanks Tom, seems clear now to carry on.
BTW here's some of the effort you need to go to when you don't use pins. Maybe over the top but better safe than sorry.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
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Ok so here's the next question, as usual all advice gratefully received.
I was looking forward to Issue 27 and the placing of the cannon supports on the support beams. Firstly when I put the support beams in I painted the top of the beam black. Funnily enough I couldn't find a single picture in the mags looking down on the ship after that. I notice it says that you should only paint the face of the cannon support presumably because glueing on paint is not good.
So the first question is should I rub the paint off the support beams before fixing the cannon supports?
I am currently planking at layer 7 at the moment so the second question is whether it would be OK to fix the cannon supports now rather than later when more planks are in place? In other words would it cause a problem if I did it now.
The third point is not really a question but if the dummy cannons are going to be fixed into the cannon supports rather than the support beams as they were on the lower gun deck, doesn't that mean they will appear higher off the deck than they should be and won't this look odd compared to the cannons that will be on the deck in the cut-out?
Thanks for the responses.
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