|
|
 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
|
Some nice detailed work you have done there Dominic and certainly moving along nicely with the build  Al
|
|
|
 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
forgotmylogin wrote:Thats not going to be an easy fix. I may have to move my airbrushing back into the house, that will please my missus no end  I did mention in your shed/new workshop topic that ambient extremes would likely affect your modelling.
The only way to minimise is to insulate the shed and stabilise the temp with a heater as mentioned.
It should grealty improve in the warmer seasons but winter will often pose a problem and you can imagine what its doing to any wooden ship builds you might have in situe.
She who must be obeyed is going to flip if she catches you in the house with airbrush in hand 
|
|
|
 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
|
Yep you did. I was in denial hoping that using a heater when in there (in conjunction with the frost guard you mentioned, which is now in place courtesy of my brother who had a spare one) would be enough. I doubt running the heater I have for a few hours before doing anything in there is going to be of much help either, and completely insulating it is going to have to wait until finances permit. Stuck now  PS: Any new-to-the-hobby members reading this and thinking "it cant make that much of a difference surely?" Take it from me, it can
|
|
|
|
|
Just got off the phone to the guy at Zero Paints to double check the best ambient temperature to spray Lacquer based paints and that is around 20 degrees in a dry atmosphere.
You can spray in lower temps but anything below 15 degrees should be avoided and the paint will take longer to dry. At lower temps the surface will dry first and the wet paint underneath can take up to 48 hours to fully cure. If any paint is added before it is fully cured especially metallics the bleeding off of the paint base ingredients can cause the metallic particle's to bunch together like dust or iron fillings on a magnet.
Also using an acrylic paint on top of an uncured lacquer will cause problems as the bleeding of reacts with the other paint although if the paint has been given 24 hours to cure at 20 degrees there should be no adverse reactions.
The enemy of any lacquer based paint is water as it is absorbed by the paint and can cause problems to the paint finish. Below I have added a link to Zero Paints download page to enable the correct application of there products. Hope it is of help.
http://www.zero-paints.com/Downloads.html
AndyCurrent builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
|
Thanks Andy, thats handy to know. My heater is set to cut off/maintain 20 degs. I have a few spare coffee pot lids hanging around which are great for practicing on. I will see if I can improve the results by keeping my heater running longer before doing any airbrushing. Re-outfitting my shed is not an option in the near future, so if I cannot find a suitable workaround I will just have to halt until I can sort it. Thanks 
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
|
The only other solution I can think of is to use a Co2 tank to supply air to your airbrush.Co2 is hydrophobic so you will get very dry air going through your airbrush.If the ambient humidity is very high though you will still have issues with the paint drying.I live in upstate NY and during our humid summers I avoid painting if I can and when I do paint I use acrylics which are not so prone to humidity issues.
Carl
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
|
Thanks Carl. I think as Tomick said, it's the overall ambient temperature that is causing the problem, and still would be causing the problem. And of course, its that that is also causing the moisture in the airline. Long term I am going to have to redo the interior, fit insulating and OSB the entire inner surface. Will have to water treat/seel the interior wood as well to prevent any sweating from rotting the outer shell. Fun times 
|
|
|
|
|
Hmm the close up pictures didn't show on my screen last night, today they have. I spray paint for a living, cars, bikes and anything that isn't bolted down! Primer is hygroscopic, it will absorb moisture, in fluid form and more so when dry. If you have damp air the primer will drag it onto a surface when sprayed through the airbrush and once its there you cannot get rid of it unless you strip back and go again. It will cause the primer to clump and look like sandtex! Top coats will do the same, but that can be flatted out and another coat applied. Also you have to remember your compressor will be compressing cold damp air, and if its too bad, even a filter will not remove it all. The compressor at work is in an insulated and heated room with a dehumidifier, mine at home is positioned so it only gets warm, dry air. I will not paint unless its above 20 degrees, and that's the whole room. also the piece being painted must be at the room temp as it can cause the paint to pickle if its cold. Hope this helps, Nem.
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
|
I get that as well sometimes Nem, with attached images too, sometimes takes me a few times of refreshing to get everything to load.
But yes it does help, I hadn't thought about the air the compressor is pulling...I may have to try repositioning things to see if that helps.
I am certainly going to have to sort out the insulating at some point regardless though.
Thanks
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Hello Dominic,
You say SWMBO would object to you spraying in the house (most of 'em do but I'm lucky with mine), but do you have a reasonable sized loft space in your property at all? It's not ideal as there can still be quite vigorous temperature fluctuations in a loft depending on the outside temperature and they are vented to the outside air which will still allow some damp air to come in? Might be a little more stable than a shed in the back yard though and the warm air from lower levels will always rise? Some of it will likely get through any loft insulation into the loft space to help stablise temperatures?
Just a thought, but still needs to be above 20 degrees up there before spraying just to be safe and don't forget to have some ventilation against spray particles and dangerous fumes. 
Kev 
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
|
Day 5
Step 8
Hello.
Despite my conundrums with my workshop, I was still able to make some progress today. Although I actually started this last eve, but needed to let the base coat dry overnight.
The valve covers, the kit depicts them as simply semi-gloss black, but I wanted to put the carbon fibre decals to some use. This whole process actually took several attempts to get right, but I won't bore you with the details, just the finished result.
Before I did anything, I needed a template for the decal. This was just a case of using masking tape, cut to shape where needed, and pulled off in one single peice, then used to cut the decal the correct size, with cuts in the right places to get it to conform to the irregular shape.
The black pen lines are there to highlight where I need to split the decal. And the resulting decals:
Before applying, I gave the parts a black primer coat and then I used the same gloss base coat I used on the exhausts (primer pictured), and allowed to dry overnight.
Applying the decals themselves was a long process of soaking the decal, brushing the part with a decal solution, then positioning the decal in place, and then brushing again with the solution, rubbing with a q-tip, applying heated air and repeating until it was properly in place and there were no creases or bubbles etc. I then brought these inside and allowed them to airdry completely.
And once I was sure they were completely dry, both above and below the decal, I applied a few gradual coats of 2k clear Gloss...
I waited until this was almost completely touch dry, (I picked this trick up off the internet somewhere), then applied the metal transfers. They seem to adhere better when the surface applying them too is still slightly tacky.
Sooo...not a great deal done today but I quite like the result, even more so as it is my first attempt at using CF decals
Cheers
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
|
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2016 Posts: 175 Points: 552 Location: Merseyside
|
The look you have achieved on the valve covers is fantastic. Keep the updates coming Im enjoying this build Built- Shelby Mustang, Lamborghini Huracan
Building-Spitfire, Redbull racing RB7, 3d printer, Honda CB750, Stage coach and Revell 1/400 Titanic
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
|
Unfortunately, I will have to stop this. I had a very poor paint job on the rocker covers and when trying to strip the paint back, (using break fluid as Zero's website recommends), ended up melting/damaging the parts Although the paint came off lovely. Definitely going to have to invest in some proper paint stripper from the various brands/types of paint. I've emailed Hobbyco about sourcing replacement parts, (Tamiya's website directed me there for spares), but as yet I've not had a reply, although it is the weekend so thats understandable. I am assuming I am contacting the right people, if anyone has any other info it would be greately appreciated.On a positive note though, my new airbrush arrived today and I've been practicing on some fabric softener lids, and so far after priming and then base coating (Using the same paint I plan on using on the Ferrari), the result is near perfect. My previous poor results were definitely a result of cold conditions, poor equipement, lack of experience...and as it turns out, bad primer. I noticed the primer itself was very bitty, possibly due to storage although hasn't affected the black primer I have of the same brand. Did I mention lack of experience  Sooo...fingers crossed I can get the parts I need and finish the car intime, shouldn't be too much of an issue. In the mean time, I have a Ducati 1199 Paningale and a detail kit (which is twice the cost of the kit ) to look forward to in about 3 or 4 weeks time. Cheers
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
|
Sorry to hear about that.I have bought replacement sprues from Tamiya before so you hopefully can get the parts replaced.I usually use easy off oven cleaner to remove paint from parts.I have melted plastic before too by using the wrong paint remover.
Carl
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
|
Thanks Carl.
From what I can see so far it is far easier to get replacement parts in the US than here in the UK, but we'll see.
Cheers
|
|
|
 Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
|
Yep, hobbyco are the guys to go. I ordered Tamiya spares (sprues and decals) from them five or six times, including two rare kits, and they have always delivered. If they have the part in stock it will arrive in 4-5 days, otherwise it will be a special order and might take up to five weeks. They are also quick to reply, so you'll probably get an email with a quote on Monday and then you'll have to call them and order using a credit card. Bit more work than buying from a web shop, but they are brilliant in what they can get you. BTW, you can always start working on a different subassembly while you wait ;-) Cheers Michal Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
|
Thanks Michal.
Will wait to hear back from then then.
Re other sub-assemblies, I still need to replace my primer anyway so looking at the middle of next week before I could do much now regardless.
Cheers
|
|
|
Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
|
that is coming along a real treat. Hope you get your painting issues sorted out but at this time of year its not easy that is for sure. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
|
|
|
|
Guest (9)
|
US
