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When to 'Vineer' or double plank the hull? Options
Tomick
#21 Posted : 04 February 2011 17:55:45

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Just a small authenticity detail, if you want authentic then the plates should be overlapped rather than butted, where in reality the tile perimieter nails run in a single line along the overlap, rather than having a double nailed line which is created if you butt the tiles.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
Laying of copper.JPG
Mike Turpin
#22 Posted : 04 February 2011 21:21:21

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Also if you look at Tomick's sketch the lengthwise overlap between rows is less than 50%.

I am currently building the Caldercraft Victory and my only raised eyebrow so far, is that they show the copper plating arranged with a 50% overlap like a brick pattern. However, I have a long way to go before I get to that stage.

I have also discussed with Yotika what effect overlapping the edges has on the number of plates required. I have been told that about an additional 50% may be needed i.e. 3000 instead of 2000! in the case of Victory. However all that is to come in the future, I'm still first planking.

Mike T
Wilfy the Sea Dog
#23 Posted : 04 February 2011 23:14:51

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Hi all,

Just a point Mike, I was under the impression that Jotika supplied 2500 plates.

Jeff your planking & copper plating is looking fantastic, is your cross section from the Corel Kit? I ask as I also have that unstarted & if you have a build log I would be interested in seeing it.

Wilfy
Mike Turpin
#24 Posted : 05 February 2011 00:21:41

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Wilfy the Sea Dog wrote:
Hi all,

Just a point Mike, I was under the impression that Jotika supplied 2500 plates.

Jeff your planking & copper plating is looking fantastic, is your cross section from the Corel Kit? I ask as I also have that unstarted & if you have a build log I would be interested in seeing it.

Wilfy



Teach me to quote without checking, actually the parts list quotes 2600 plates which come in two packets so that is why I was kind of thinking a round thousand in each packet! The conversation I had with Jotika suggested that to overlap the edges would require about another thousand plates overall. I shall probably buy those extras to ensure authenticity when I get that far. It's like the fabled ha'peth of tar!

- only copper

Mike T

axle396
#25 Posted : 05 February 2011 04:15:56

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OhMyGod That's it. Authenticity be damned. I'm staining and varnishing the lower hull. Flapper Flapper Flapper
Jimmy L.

current builds : Lancaster 1/32 (Hachette)
Revell USS Kearsarge
Titanic Lifeboat

I started off with nothing and I've still got most of it left.
jeff averre
#26 Posted : 05 February 2011 16:18:00

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Hi Wilfy,
The cross section is actually a DIY job, I thought about getting the kit but it was a different scale and I want to use the figures we get off DeAg, the other thing was the length of the kit meant minimising the ratlines (rigging) and lastly, as I've never done anything like this before I thought the experience of doing a scratch build alongside the main one would be a good learning curve, I hav'nt loads of tools or materials so I'm using whatever comes to hand, there's bits and pieces of this build scattered throughout my post's, when I get the chance I'll 'cobble' them together and put them in 'Victory builds'

A quick one about the overlapping copper plates, on tommick's sketch the bottom plates overlap the ones above, I would have thought top should overlap those below (like 'clinker build') but looking at photo's I took of the 'Trincmalee' at Hartlepool you can see Tomick is right although the overlap is barely discernable, so it would possibly be a bit OTT to bother with the overlap on a model of this scale??
Here's the photo's of the plates on the 'Trincomalee'.



Jeff
Tomick
#27 Posted : 05 February 2011 20:58:36

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The drawing is actually from Longridge who has studied Victory inside out.

Plating on a model is a very time consuming task in its own right let alone attending to overlap detail, very much a case of how much time you want to throw at it, where in the main the majority of model builder's/kits go the butt route, including for practical purposes the Caldercraft Victory.
Mike Turpin
#28 Posted : 05 February 2011 23:11:03

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Longridge also points out that overlapping the bottom plates over the top is a characteristic of ships of war. Commercial vessels were coppered with the top plates overlapping the lower ones!

I take Tomick's point about butting versus overlap, I just hope when I get to that stage I will have the incentive and patience to do the longer job. It's up to individual choice in the end!

Mike T
Tomick
#29 Posted : 06 February 2011 11:21:07

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Its all about time and patience, copper tiling can drive one to distraction Crying
Tomick
#30 Posted : 06 February 2011 11:24:45

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And if you want to go for the 'weathered' look the below photo is of an actual Victory sheathing plate
Tomick attached the following image(s):
Victory Copper sheathing.jpg
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