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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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great result on the calipers and discs  regards Phil COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Super job on the calipers!
Carl
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 Looking good Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Calipers look great You need one of these to help with areas the naked eye struggle with  http://www.model-space.c...gb/magnifying-lamp.html
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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Day 10
Step N/A
Thanks for the comments guys.
Small update, I got finished up the calipers, built and sprayed the rear discs and got everything fitted to the hubs, and fixed into place.
I re-attached the calipers by drilling out the molded caliper fixing bolts and fixing them in place with the same pins used to the construct the discs, as they were no longer needed. This area will never be seen once the frame is all in place so I just did what was needed to secure them.
I've not tightened up the hubs to the swing arms yet as I need to check ahead to see how the wheel attaches. The instructions dont say to glue the bolt that forms the axel stub, but this causes it to spin freely and I am not sure how you are meant to tighten up a wheel nut if the bolt spins...
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Looking good Dominic, those calipers have a nice finish to them. Does the kit supply any decals to go on the calipers such as 'Brembo' or the like?
Keep up the good work, looking forward to the next update. 
Kev 
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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Thanks Kev, and yes the kit does, just self titled Ferrari ones. On the stock car they are meant to be black (although like any Ferrari that is customizable) but I felt they would look better colour matched to the body.
I may see if I can find some after market decals for Brembo, or I might just stick with the Ferrari badge...undecided yet.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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Day 10
Step N/A
Hello again.
I had some rare spare time this evening so I wanted to turn my attention to the body. Although thats way off needing to be done yet, I wanted to make a start now due to the curing times involved as I plan on 3 stage polishing the body, and I can continue working on the rest of the car inbetween waiting.
I plucked out the main body panels to start with, I will do the smaller ones later.
But, before I got too involved in prepping the body panels, I wanted to check something I have seen others building this kit have issues with, and sure enough, I have the same problem.
The plastic upright on the door and the top of the door are very thin, and have lost their shape so will not fit flush to the frame properly, like so:
I've read a few different methods for fixing this, but will need to do a little more research before deciding how to fix them. In the mean time, on with the rest. Like with most Tamiya kits, there was almost zero flash, just 4 mold lines that need addressing, two on the front, and two on the rear.
I marked the two on the front with a black marker for reference:
I gently sanded the lines with an emery stick, about 320 grit app. until the black marker (and the mold line) had gone:
And then went over the entire part with 600 Tamiya sheet, the sponge backed ones. Although these are expensive for what they are, I like them as it is easier to vary the pressure being applied.
And finally repeated as needed on the other parts:
And most importantly, after going over them with an empty airbrush to blow the dust off, I washed them in warm water to remove any final dust and other contaminents. I will allow them to dry in the house over night ready for their first coat of priming.
See you tomorrow
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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If it was me building this I would stick with the Ferrari logos on the calipers Dominic, as they will be visible through the wheels and easily readable giving another little indicator to onlookers that this is a Ferrari!! I think the red calipers work very well too and again, should look very cool (got very hot on the real ones though, lol) as a nice contrast against the colour of the wheels?
Nice work on those body panels too, well done. Is it not just a case of holding down the roof panel flush to the inner framework whilst the glue dries in order to sort out that misfitting door panel, or will that create further problems with the roof panel later on?
Kev
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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Hiya Kev. No that wouldn't work as it is the top of the doors, they are sort of bent up and away from the top of what will be the frame. Anyway, this is on hold now as I have had a torrid time the last few days doing the body, so I need completely strip back to bare plastic and start again. Even then it will wait until I can afford to get a proper booth that is vented. As Scotty is so fond of saying: the right tools for the right job! Should still have this finished before the deadline in December though 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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forgotmylogin wrote:Even then it will wait until I can afford to get a proper booth that is vented. A vented booth won't cure ambient conditions. The damp or cold air will simply be drawn into the booth.
Shame that your build is experiencing all these problems, hang in there am sure you'll get there in the end and Dec is a long way off yet.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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It wasn't the air causing the problem this time, I haven't fixed the ambience, but have found a work around for now, and the proof is in the pudding as my water trap is now bone dry again. It was dust and my own stupidity. The paint went on perfectly until the clear coat went on, which also went on ok, was just speckledy. I know what caused the problem I just can't believe I was stupid enough not to expect it. I've found that I can either go two ways, using IPA 99.9% alcohol will completely strip Zero clearcoats/basecoats/primer back to bare plastic without damaging the plastic, and is preferable to Zero's advice of using DOT3 brake fluid as by all accounts that makes the plastic brittle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omwDdARX6U0I found that using oven cleaner will just strip the clearcoat after about 20 minutes but leave the primer/basecoat intact so that is another option as the primer/basecoats went on perfectly, but I think I would prefer to completely strip everything off and start again if I can. Hopefully I can avoid having to order another new sprue, as I am guessing this one would cost a lot more than £8.50 lol
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Sorry to see that you are having so much trouble with this Dominic and I hope that you don't give up on it, too nice a model to forget. If it was me building it, and I didn't have a dry paintshop to work in, I would forget spraying any large body/chassis parts for now and just wait until the summer when it's less damp. You have nearly a whole year to complete your entry so perhaps prioritise building the rest of the smaller parts and sub-assemblies for now so that they are finished first and then just do a final assembly once the body is painted later in the year?
Good luck mate and keep up the good work.
Kev
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 Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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I'm of the same opinion: the time is plenty, the instruction is long, choose some other subassembly, use the time to practice painting, wait for better conditions - and then go for it, it will be perfect this way :) Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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I would also wait for better weather.In USA I do the opposite.The summers here are hot and humid and not great for painting.The winters are dry and cold and I spray in my basement so it gets warm and dry.I have disasters spraying in the middle of summer.I had one model I stripped and painted 4 times before I got it right.
Carl
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US
