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URGENT: Need help with planking level 12 and above Options
eoinkm
#1 Posted : 15 February 2011 23:30:30

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Hi Guys,

I really need HELP!

I haven't posted anything for a while now since I've been getting on with my build slowly and watching how everyone is getting on.

I'm now on issue 26 and working through the build systematically however I've just finished the 11th level of planking and didn't anticipate a problem that I now have with the planks sitting nowhere near the frames at the bow end. I've been packing the frames but as I've progressed up the frames to make everything in line the packing has just got bigger and bigger. I presume this is a result of poor fairing and preparation.
This is my first ever build and I was bound to stumble across a major problem/mistake.

Please see images below to see what I'm talking about:









Below are images just of how my build is going.






Please let me know if you have any suggestions.
willie
#2 Posted : 16 February 2011 09:50:52

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looks like you have not taper your top planks they are going stright up try tapering to bring them in. from frame 15 check mag for top planks looks like the top three needs doing
Tomick
#3 Posted : 16 February 2011 09:57:54

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Unfortunately its going to be a drastic measure to get it sorted, but I suggest you remove the offending planking and re-lay, otherwise the huge gap between the forward bulkhead and planking will remain.

The hull planks need to contact with each frame, and looking at the lie of the bow planking it would appear the planks have not been chamfered/tapered enough, which has developed a stepped planking 'clinker' effect as per that seen in photo 3.

eoinkm
#4 Posted : 16 February 2011 10:14:13

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What would be the best method of removing the planks to then relay them once I have tapered and chamfered them?

I am using an electric plank bender to bend the planks. How can I taper the planks using this method?

Thanks for the responses.

E
saintsman123
#5 Posted : 16 February 2011 10:24:47

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If you have used pva glue then if you wet the planks somehow, then the glue will soften and you should be able to remove them, if not the you will need to carefully slide a craft knife between the ribs and the planks. Maybe try a spray bottle to direct the water on to the ribs.
Thats just my thoughts I'm sure more experienced builders may have a magic solution to the problem. There seem to be plenty spare planks should you break some, but you can always buy more at SP models, they onlt cost around £3.00 for 25 100mm lenghts
Come on you Jimmies
karl1113
#6 Posted : 16 February 2011 11:00:59

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hi,as tomick has suggested,remove the offending planks,also the ribs need to faired a lot more,the bow planking also needs to be tapered,when you bend them,twist up as well,this helps stopping the clinker effect(1 plank riding over another).don't dispair,it happens,when you are ready to start again,make sure you get the first plank right,don't be tempted to carry on untill the first one is right.I have re-done my one three times.good luck,btw yours is looking good.
Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory
Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat.

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eoinkm
#7 Posted : 16 February 2011 11:11:33

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Thanks guys for all of the suggestions. I was quite annoyed yesterday when I discovered this was going to be a problem and I was so content with how my build was going.

I knew I could count on you guys to give me some tips on how to solve this.

Mr T, Willie and Karl - I will be removing the offending planks but I have a feeling I may need to remove more the 3 layers. I will just have to see how it goes, and of course I will keep you updated in how I do and hopefully post pictures of this problem resolved.

Saintsman - thanks for the tips on removing the planks. I have used PVA so will try softening it with water. Also I have broken about 4-5 planks already so may need to be ordering more in the future. I had a look on the SP Models website but can't find the planks. Where do I look under or what could I search for?

Thanks again guys, much appreciated
E
willie
#8 Posted : 16 February 2011 13:04:40

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if useing sp models basewood 2.0 x5 mm
saintsman123
#9 Posted : 16 February 2011 13:36:02

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there is an artesiana latina section under wooden models, you can find timber there
Come on you Jimmies
eoinkm
#10 Posted : 17 February 2011 23:11:35

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just updating you all. I've managed to find some time to start sorting out this problem.

I decided that I would take away all the planks placed around the bow. This was because none of them were touching the frames so I thought it best to start this bit from scratch to be on the safe side.

Below are some pictures of my progress. I'm not sure if you can tell by the images, but how much fairing do I need to do? or do you think it's fine as it and I just need to chamfer and taper my planks a bit better?:







I've made the images a bit smaller this time. Sorry for the massive ones earlier.

saintsman123 - I found the planks thanks. I will definitely be needing them.

E
Paul
#11 Posted : 18 February 2011 06:21:45

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Zeptrader posted these pictures & diagram in August 2010

http://forum.model-space.co.uk/....aspx?g=posts&t=1047

Hope this helps
Tomick
#12 Posted : 18 February 2011 09:00:40

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Trial fit a plank which will instantly show where you need to fair
Tarbrush
#13 Posted : 18 February 2011 19:30:01

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Hi,
The shipmates have covered most of your problem. Looking at the latest photos it looks to me as though you need to fair quite a bit more as you need the planks to lay across the full width of the former. I faired until the sanding faired the full width of the former in most cases and most areas at bow and stern. The plank test is the indicator. When it lies flat bridging between the formers you are there.
If you should over sand/fair you can pack up with card and try again.

You are not on your own here. We have all been through this trial by fire. My first attempt at planking ended with soaking the pva and starting again because I did not taper enough and fit drop planks to avoid tapering below half plank width and avoiding the clinkering effect. At least with the 2mm thick planks they will stand a little sanding. On my double planked model the planks were so thin I ended up sanding almost through in places. I think I prefer single planking as the planks are much easier to taper and chamfer with a David's plane thus eliminating eternal sanding of planks and fingertips.Blushing If you have an Aldi's near you, treat yourself to a digital caliper for £7.99 (last Sunday's offer so don't hang about). This will be invaluable for the last 10-11 planks each side. PM me if you have Excel and want a copy of my Plank Calculator spreadsheet.

Good luck, you will get there in the end and the sense of achievement is mega.

Laury
eoinkm
#14 Posted : 19 February 2011 09:36:22

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Hi Laury (Tarbrush)

Thank you for contributing to this topic. Your information is very helpful and i will certainly be takIng everything you've said into consideration however, being a complete novice, I don't understand what you lean when you say 'you sanded until you faired the full with of the former'.
Do you have an diagrams/photos. What's the former? Sorry if this is a reall stupid question but you guys use so much terminology that I don't understand and would like to/need to learn.

I think I'll be getting myself one of those planes and digital calipers.

Could you send me a copy of your excel plank calculator please? I would very much like to see that

Cheers

E

P.S. Maybe someone could great a shipmates dictionary with all the basic terminology and explained in layman's terms?? Mike Turpin?? It could be added to Zeptrader's 'Index of Topics'. Just an idea
z8000783
#15 Posted : 19 February 2011 09:41:42

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Former is Ribs in this case.

You might find this helpful as well.

Fairing and here

John
Mike Turpin
#16 Posted : 19 February 2011 10:08:34

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eoinkm wrote:

P.S. Maybe someone could great a shipmates dictionary with all the basic terminology and explained in layman's terms?? Mike Turpin?? It could be added to Zeptrader's 'Index of Topics'. Just an idea


I have already thought of this. Have a look at Nautical Terms

A list of suggestions might be a good idea and then any members who have an idea as to the answers can add their contributions as topics.

Mike T
karl1113
#17 Posted : 19 February 2011 10:46:36

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I will put a few terms up for newbees in the hope it might explain the parts.
ribs = baulkheads,formers,the term ribs was mainly used for building aircraft.
planks = strips,droppers= short planks which are tapered to half width one end,
stealers,are the same as droppers but are used at the stern(back end)and the droppers are used mainly at the bow(front)
transom = stern,in our case it is the rear end with the 2 gunports.
wales = rubbing strips also called the whales,these are strengthening strips for when the ship is in dock,to protect the side as it moves up and down against the harbour walls,nowadays smaller boats use rubber tyres of bouys,
quarter deck = if you take that as it says,quarter,then you have it.It usually found at the rear and it is elevated,the steering is usually done from here.
poop deck,found on the larger ships,is above the quarter deck,at the stern end.I hope this helps some of you,as I am not a sailor some of the terminology might need adjustment.port and starboard always had me in a tiss,standing on the main deck looking to the front of the ship on the left is port and on the right is starboard.
Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory
Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat.

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Venice
#18 Posted : 19 February 2011 10:55:10

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Port the drink is red
Left has 4 letters the same as port,
so,
Port is the left side,

cant remember who told me that when I was young but it always helped me especial when rewiring lights on my boat
Present Build:

H.M.S. Victory
H.M. Bark Endeavour


Photobox build album

It cant be that bad, what do you mean it's sinking
Mike Turpin
#19 Posted : 19 February 2011 11:17:41

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Hi All

This is where the fun begins! Referring to the port side is strictly speaking incorrect when dealing with sailing ships of the period we are interested in. The term 'Larboard' was not substituted by the Royal Navy by 'Port' until the middle of the nineteenth century. (1849)

The sides of HMS Victory should really be referred to as 'larboard' (instead of port) and starboard being the same. However when giving helm orders (steering orders), 'Port the helm' was used to inndicate steering towards the 'left'!

Larboard is thought to originate from that side of the ship being the side nearest the dock when loading cargoes and starboard originates from the 'steering board' which was used before rudders to steer a ship and assumed that most steersman were right-handed and therefore the steering board was rigged on the 'right hand' side of the ship.

Mike T
Mike Turpin
#20 Posted : 19 February 2011 11:19:48

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Venice wrote:
cant remember who told me that when I was young but it always helped me especial when rewiring lights on my boat



Hi Venice

I think you have mentioned your 'real boat' at least two or three times, are you going to tell us more about it? Where do you sail it around Basildon??Confused

Mike T Blink
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