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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/12/2015 Posts: 40 Points: 120 Location: South Dakota
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colson wrote:TheKraken wrote:If it's any help at all, Battlefront places the light at the location you have marked as "Rear Light" Thanks. That's the area I've been most thinking of putting another caution light. While the game is not necessarily definitive, it's probably the only thing out there officially licensed by Lucasfilm that has a caution light at all. So I'm watching The Force Awakens and for the first time ever they have a shot of the Falcon from a rear angle. At 0:42:53 I can see every red light. None on the rear landing gear but there appears to be one on the underside of the cockpit. I know it's not ESB but it's as close to being official as your gonna get. It does line up with Battlefront. Edit: comparing it with a screen cap from ESB I noticed it's missing some lights. The red lights next to the large landing lights. Anyway, you see another great shot at 0:48:54.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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Vex wrote:
So I'm watching The Force Awakens and for the first time ever they have a shot of the Falcon from a rear angle. At 0:42:53 I can see every red light. None on the rear landing gear but there appears to be one on the underside of the cockpit. I know it's not ESB but it's as close to being official as your gonna get. It does line up with Battlefront.
Edit: comparing it with a screen cap from ESB I noticed it's missing some lights. The red lights next to the large landing lights. Anyway, you see another great shot at 0:48:54.
Just looked at the scene myself. I don't see any additional caution lights either on the rear anywhere around the gear wells. So I think I may just leave the model as is, since that seems to be accurate.
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Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/02/2017 Posts: 5 Points: 5 Location: Hiram
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According to the MF lighting link posted earlier it shows the smaller landing lights as 7-3/4" recessed openings. This scales down to .18" for 1:43. What size led are you using for these lights? I've read some are using a 3mm diffused flattop led, which is a bit small, but the next size up is 5mm, which is closer but a little big. I thought that since they are recessed lights you could drill the hole with a 23/128 drill bit and use a small ABS tube glued to the backside of the hull to set the led in. This way the opening would be .18" with a recessed led. Also, the larger lights next to the ramp are shown as 19-1/2" in diameter which scales to .453" in 1:43, with 4 lights in each recessed opening. I guess the same recessed procedure could be used, but drilling a nearly 1/2" hole in the hull would definitely show commitment.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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cp85gt wrote:According to the MF lighting link posted earlier it shows the smaller landing lights as 7-3/4" recessed openings. This scales down to .18" for 1:43. What size led are you using for these lights? I've read some are using a 3mm diffused flattop led, which is a bit small, but the next size up is 5mm, which is closer but a little big. I thought that since they are recessed lights you could drill the hole with a 23/128 drill bit and use a small ABS tube glued to the backside of the hull to set the led in. This way the opening would be .18" with a recessed led. Also, the larger lights next to the ramp are shown as 19-1/2" in diameter which scales to .453" in 1:43, with 4 lights in each recessed opening. I guess the same recessed procedure could be used, but drilling a nearly 1/2" hole in the hull would definitely show commitment. I'm not doing the recessed lights. Just the red caution lights.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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REMOTE CONTROL PROBLEMHas anyone else who has all 100 issues had this problem? I'm testing my lighting and decided to try out the remote control. When plugged in with an external 9v power supply, I press either the "a" or "b" button on the remote and the power led on the circuit board blinks, but the buttons do not turn on the lights or activate the ramp. HOWEVER, when I unplug the power supply and use the battery box, the remote works just fine. But I am not using the battery supply, as it just won't be enough with all of the additional lighting I have going on in the kit. Anyone else had this issue? I've tried different work arounds, but no luck. The board is obviously receiving the signal, as again, the power led blinks, but doesn't do anything.
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Hi Colson, have you attached all the additional lighting to the supplied board, or do you have a separate board for those. I have seen others attach additional lights to a wireless relay switch which could cause the remote on the supplied board not to work properly with a mains adapter if it uses the same frequency. I havent tried mine yet, I too will be using the mains adapter. Mark
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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Markwarren wrote:Hi Colson, have you attached all the additional lighting to the supplied board, or do you have a separate board for those. I have seen others attach additional lights to a wireless relay switch which could cause the remote on the supplied board not to work properly with a mains adapter if it uses the same frequency. I havent tried mine yet, I too will be using the mains adapter.
Mark I do have an extra board I will be hooking up, but at the moment, only the supplied board, and only with 2 sets of lights attached for testing. Unless that's the problem, because I don't have all lights attached in all of the sockets yet. But again, even the ramp won't work while the power supply is attached, only the battery box. And I also tried leaving the battery box attached while attaching the pwr supply, and that didn't work. Battery box only.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
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colson wrote:Unless that's the problem, because I don't have all lights attached in all of the sockets yet. NOPE. Just tried it will all lights attached to all sockets. Remote won't work with pwr supply attached. It does light with the power supply by pressing the test button on the board, just not the remote control.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Its possible that the lighting extra's are in conflict with the IR electronic capability. The only way to check is to see if the remote works as it should as "kit supplied" lighting content, i.e. disconnect the extra lighting from the loop.
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Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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Tomick wrote:Its possible that the lighting extra's are in conflict with the IR electronic capability. The only way to check is to see if the remote works as it should as "kit supplied" lighting content, i.e. disconnect the extra lighting from the loop. That's what I am doing. I'm only trying to light the supplied mandible lights and engine lights. I have nothing extra attached. Strictly OOB. Here's another interesting thing. I thought, well, if it works with the battery box, what if I run the power supply directly into the battery box socket as opposed to the supplied power plug/switch socket. Same thing. If I push the test buttons on the board, the lights work. If I use the remote, the board power LED blinks (as if receiving a wireless signal) but lights and ramp won't work. I was hoping it was maybe something with the battery box socket conflicting with the power supply/switch socket
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2015 Posts: 561 Points: 1,713 Location: South Carolina
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Colson... let me ask you a question... you're using a universal AC Adapter I assume. Check it and see what the output aperage on it is. Every adapter has to list the output wattage and aperage in (mA).. If you have a multimeter, check how many mA are coming out of the battery box and match that with the AC Adapter you're using. I'm not sure how many mA are coming out of the battery box, but will check when i get home. But for example, if the battery box is only putting out 500mA (I'm not saying that's the actual official output, will double check when I get home) and your AC Adpater is putting out 2000mA, it could actually damage the board and cause things like this to happen, if on the other hand the AC Apater is only putting out 300mA, it's too little it won't have enough umpth to push the power thru the chips and just sit there and won't respond to the remote at all. Not all AC Adapters are made equal. If you're using just a AC Adapter that you had laying around that charged your electric toothbrush, it may not produce enough amperage to run the circuit board and thus give you the required power to run it properly, then again if you're using a over the counter Universal AC Adapter that you got from Radio Shack or something, it may be producing too much amperage. Like I suggest, try to match the aperage that the battery box is producing and it should work. I'll test out the battery box amperage when I get home this evening and post my results. But that's just my opinion. If it runs off the battery box and everything works the way it should, it's got to be the AC Adapter you're using. Lemme know if that helps ok?
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Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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LrdSatyr8 wrote:Colson... let me ask you a question... you're using a universal AC Adapter I assume. Check it and see what the output aperage on it is. Every adapter has to list the output wattage and aperage in (mA).. If you have a multimeter, check how many mA are coming out of the battery box and match that with the AC Adapter you're using. I'm not sure how many mA are coming out of the battery box, but will check when i get home. But for example, if the battery box is only putting out 500mA (I'm not saying that's the actual official output, will double check when I get home) and your AC Adpater is putting out 2000mA, it could actually damage the board and cause things like this to happen, if on the other hand the AC Apater is only putting out 300mA, it's too little it won't have enough umpth to push the power thru the chips and just sit there and won't respond to the remote at all. Not all AC Adapters are made equal. If you're using just a AC Adapter that you had laying around that charged your electric toothbrush, it may not produce enough amperage to run the circuit board and thus give you the required power to run it properly, then again if you're using a over the counter Universal AC Adapter that you got from Radio Shack or something, it may be producing too much amperage. Like I suggest, try to match the aperage that the battery box is producing and it should work. I'll test out the battery box amperage when I get home this evening and post my results. But that's just my opinion. If it runs off the battery box and everything works the way it should, it's got to be the AC Adapter you're using. Lemme know if that helps ok? That actually is one other thing I had considered myself. The AC adapter I'm using is 600mA. I'm gonna try to check out the battery box and see what it's putting out.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2015 Posts: 561 Points: 1,713 Location: South Carolina
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colson wrote:That actually is one other thing I had considered myself. The AC adapter I'm using is 600mA. I'm gonna try to check out the battery box and see what it's putting out. I'm pretty sure if you match the output mA to that of the battery box, it should work if you haven't damaged the circuit board with the AC Adapter already. Had someone on FB with the same problem awhile back, and that's what happened... they were pumping some 6000mA thru the circuit board with an AC Adapter they got off an old network router that said 9v output on it and then wondered why it wasn't working anymore. Even after they hooked the battery box up to it, it wouldn't work anymore either. Gotta be careful with those adapters. Lemme know what you find out and I'll compare to my findings tonight and we'll see how they match. I do know that some batteries aren't made the same... AA alkaline batteries typically have a capacity rating of over 2,500 mAh and AA NiMH batteries have rated capacities of only 1,200 to 1,900 mAh. But Batteries aperage is rated by milli-amp hours (mAh)... I know, gets kinda confusing don't it? LOL
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
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It could be that the power adaptor you are using is not powerful enough. The official power adaptor puts out 1000mA.
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An adapter will be available for purchase in the USA this week according to the US team.
Carl
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Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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davetwin wrote:It could be that the power adaptor you are using is not powerful enough. The official power adaptor puts out 1000mA. Yep, I just tried with another adapter I have that's 1500mA and now it works. ALL GOOD. So yea, it was the first one I was using was too little at 600mA. And thanks davetwin for the info on the official adapter. I was wondering about it.
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Not long back from work, and was going to reply to you regarding the power adapter you are using. But having seen the other replies, looks like I've been beaten to it. I have to say that it is highly likely that is your issue. Keep us updated once you have the right, recommended adapter. Mark
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Pleased to hear you have solved it now. Cheers Mark
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Just another little update. Been very busy, so progress has been slow. GOOD NEWS though, I finally received my last pack. So I have all the parts to finish. But I still have a bunch to do. Just thought I'd share my latest. I finished installing all of my caution lights and running the fiber to them. I then made 2 separate boards for my Falcon. One is for the red caution lights, and the other is for the landing lights. Oh, and I jumpered the landing light switch socket so all 4 of those sockets are hot all the time. So in the photo above, the left board is my caution light board. I made a cable that runs from one of the landing light J2 sockets to my board for power and all of my red LEDs plug in to that to light my red caution light fibers. The other board is for the landing lights. WHY THE LANDING LIGHTS you ask? Well, as we all know, the lights only illuminate if you use the landing gear. This can also easily be cheated by hotwiring the landing light button, or strapping it down, which will leave the lights on all the time. Because I'm planning on displaying my Falcon in the flying position, I do not want the landing lights on all the time. But I would like to be able to show people that the ramp works and lights. So if you look closely at my picture above, you'll see on the left of the main board 2 sockets where the ramp light is. I made a J2 splitter and ran one to the ramp light and the other to my landing light board. So now, when I press the button to activate the ramp, my landing lights come on at the same time. And here's a shot of all the caution lights lit. And I've also finished assembling the mandibles. Now all that's left is to weather them. But getting closer to the finish line.
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Looking good Agent Colson Make things as simple as possible but not simpler... - Albert Einstein
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