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 Looking really good. I love the red lights now you have finished them. Your wiring looks similar to mine, and Ive got so much more to put in as well.  Keep up the excellent work.  Regards Mark
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 Rank: Amateur level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/12/2015 Posts: 40 Points: 120 Location: South Dakota
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Love the look of those lights. Those light covers make it look good. Also love how they're not too bright.
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2015 Posts: 561 Points: 1,713 Location: South Carolina
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I was thinking of using fibers for my landing lights as well. The way I see it, you've got 4 LEDs to power the landing flood lights. What if you only used 1 of those LEDs for the floods, powering fibers instead and then you'd have 3 extra LEDs for other things. You could change one to a red LED and then use that to power fibers to make the landing lights, and then you still have 2 extra LEDs to play with for powering the inside! Makes alot more sense! Great job bro!
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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LrdSatyr8 wrote:I was thinking of using fibers for my landing lights as well. The way I see it, you've got 4 LEDs to power the landing flood lights. What if you only used 1 of those LEDs for the floods, powering fibers instead and then you'd have 3 extra LEDs for other things. You could change one to a red LED and then use that to power fibers to make the landing lights, and then you still have 2 extra LEDs to play with for powering the inside! Makes alot more sense! Great job bro! Yea. I'm using one of the landing light ports for my caution light board, and the other 3 ports for LEDs lighting my cockpit and hold. I'm also using one of the gunner ports for my hold area lights, since I'm only putting a gunner port in the top, not the bottom.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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Another little update. I've now installed my sub light engines. Because the LED strips included with the kit do not fill the engines from end to end, I did a little modification. I had some extra LED strip around, so I cut out a section of 3 white LEDs and made a connection to the board for power, placing them in the center between the included LED strips, as pictured below. I did try to solder the 3 LEDs to the end of the right existing strip, but while it will light attached to the main board, when the 2nd light strip is plugged in, my 3 lights go out and both long strips light. Unplug the 1 strip, and my strip and the long on both light. I didn't bother to figure out what was going on, so I just wired it by itself. Still works. I just wanted it cleaner looking, but nobody will ever see it.  This gives me light from end to end and nice even lighting.  While I do not intend on using the included engine diffusing, and plan on doing the Paragrafix photoetched engine grill, here's a photo of the included diffusion to see how it lights with my additions. 
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Very nice work  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Great work, certainly gives it a more even light. Mark
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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So, while my Falcon will be displayed in a flight position, I did assemble the landing gear together to use for support. At the moment, I'm still using long screws in the holes on the underside to stand it up. HOWEVER, because mine will be in flight, I'm now thinking I want to fill in those holes and shave and reshape them so I have a clean belly. But doing this, I need to use the landing gear for support when working on the inside or top. So I purchased a bag of 100 extremely small very strong magnets. I think I talked about them previously. I got them to use for the sides of the Falcon so I can remove the sides to access the screws for the top and remove it in case I ever need to access the inside for light replacement and such. But I decided to test them with my landing gear. So here we have the magnets.  So for starters, I took a pair stacked together, put the tiniest drop of superglue down on the landing gear and put the pair on, only the bottom magnet of the pair being glued to the landing gear.   I then put a very small drop of superglue on the top of the other magnet and put the landing gear in the gear well and held down in place securely. This would secure the 2nd magnet to the surface of the gear well and I could them remove the gear, leaving the magnet attached behind. You can see in this photo that the magnets are then perfectly lined up when the gear is attached.  And here we have all of the gear magnetically attached to the belly.  At this point, I obviously have not painted them. Not sure if I even will. Again, this is strictly for support for when working on the model, and not for display. Anyway, onward I go.
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/05/2016 Posts: 130 Points: 386 Location: Murrieta, CA (USA)
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Very nice idea with the magnets Make things as simple as possible but not simpler... - Albert Einstein
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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So I assembled all of the sides today and spent a good chunk of it positioning and gluing magnets into place on the pieces and frame so they'll stick. It worked out sooooo well. I couldn't hoped for a better outcome. Amazing how strong these little magnets are. I don't have to put any pressure, and they just jump to the frame and hold on tight. Below is a link to a short video showing how well they attach for anyone who might be interested in the results. For some reason, the link is only working half way. You'll have to cut and paste into browser to view. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AqpDXzwvuXbh2BEXz_8ApSyBkvFZ
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Very neat solution well done indeed Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/05/2016 Posts: 79 Points: 251 Location: Perth, W.Australia
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Been following your build for awhile now , and some of your ideas have inspired me on mine .
Would like to purchase the mini - magnets you mentioned in your post#468 , could you tell us where you sourced them please ?
Thanks for posting and sharing .
Cheers Ged.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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gedmac66 wrote:Been following your build for awhile now , and some of your ideas have inspired me on mine .
Would like to purchase the mini - magnets you mentioned in your post#468 , could you tell us where you sourced them please ?
Thanks for posting and sharing .
Cheers Ged. Sure thing. Here's a link. Got 'em on Ebay. $11 for 100 magnets. They arrived pretty quick too. I used them for my landing gear, mandible head lights and all of the sides, and I still have some left over. http://www.ebay.com/itm/...5252?hash=item237e60c044
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/05/2016 Posts: 79 Points: 251 Location: Perth, W.Australia
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Thanks very much , will be ordering some asap . Cheers Ged
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/04/2015 Posts: 263 Points: 795 Location: Los Angeles
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So I've known for quite a while how I was planning on lighting my gunner port, but wasn't quite sure physically how it would work out. Now that I have all parts, I was able to figure out a plan. Because the hold is secured to the lower hull, and the gunner port is secured to the upper hull, that was my dilemma. So I came up with a plan. I have some LED strip which I was planning on using to light the port. So what I've done is taken a plastic water cup (because it's already circular) and cut out a strip of it. I then attached my LED strip to the inside of the cup strip as in the photo below.  While these next 2 photos below are a temporary attachment with just tape, to test my idea, it will be permanently secured when actually done. But I then attach one end of the plastic cup strip to the rear wall of the HOLD and the other end I cut a notch and it attaches to the hall leading to the gunner port.   So then, when the gunner port is attached to the top hull, when the top is placed in position, the gunner port will lower into it's position in the center of my LED plastic cup strip and light like so.   And because I am only using the upper gunner port because my lower port will be the Falcon support on it's stand, when looking down through the ladder tube you'll end up seeing nothing but black on the back side. The gunner tube itself is also lit from the light I had placed in the gunner hallway. So I grabbed a screen cap of the inside of the gunner port from ANH and printed it out on photo paper to possibly place under the ladder tube so when looking down through upper port, it looks like you can see the other port.   So that's my latest modifications going on.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/12/2015 Posts: 40 Points: 120 Location: South Dakota
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Impressive.
Most impressive.
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Nice idea, looks very effective Mark
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Very nice work Colson, the gunner well lighting works quite effectively
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/03/2015 Posts: 561 Points: 1,713 Location: South Carolina
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Looking great bro... Love the work you've done on the gunner stations so far! Can't wait to see more!
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 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/03/2017 Posts: 3 Points: 9
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colson,
Being some one who has used the Paragrafix set for the gunner station, I would like your input.
I have felt that the stock, plastic parts double as a central support structure for the model.
I've been concerned that the PE set may not offer that same support, or the PE could even get distorted with any vertical flexing of the frame.
Do you foresee any such issues with support?
I would have liked a PE set of panels for detail and lighting that would still use the plastic parts (much like how PE for the station panel in the hold area was done).
Even though the room shape would not be quite as accurate, I think they would be stronger, overall.
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