|
|
 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
|
Hi friends
Those blocks that are attached to the cannons look awfully big - are they the correct scale? I thought the same with the ones for the carronade. They certainly don't look that big relative to the cannon on the photos I've looked at.
If they are the wrong scale, is it possible to buy smaller blocks anywhere?
Happy building
Daffy09
|
|
|
 Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2010 Posts: 748 Points: 2,285 Location: bognor regis
|
hi cornwall model boats..they are an internet only model shop and it only takes 2 or 3 days to receive your orders cheers benny
|
|
|
 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
daffy09 wrote:Hi friends
Those blocks that are attached to the cannons look awfully big - are they the correct scale? I thought the same with the ones for the carronade. They certainly don't look that big relative to the cannon on the photos I've looked at.
If they are the wrong scale, is it possible to buy smaller blocks anywhere?
Happy building
Daffy09 The blocks are overscale but for very good reason's, manufacturing limitations and that they are very small to handle at the size they are, any smaller and they become more difficult to thread, you'll appreciate just how fiddly this task is when you come to rig the canon at issue 50 and block threading thereafter. You can of course choose reduce the profile size of the blocks by careful sanding.
|
|
|
Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
|
there plenty of models shops on the internet and cheaper
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
|
Thanks Tomick and friends,
must have had one of those moments again - I didn't think about the problems entailed with anything smaller ie; the threading, and yes, I could probably make them appear a little smaller with that careful sanding Tomick. Thanks again
and happy building
Daffy09
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Hi,
Don't know is this is any help but I always stick to the old rule of "the blocks should be the same width as half the diameter of the wheel"
Well it's worked for me over the years anyhow!!!!!!!!
Phil,
|
|
|
Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
|
daffy09 wrote:Thanks Tomick and friends,
must have had one of those moments again - I didn't think about the problems entailed with anything smaller ie; the threading, and yes, I could probably make them appear a little smaller with that careful sanding Tomick. Thanks again
and happy building
Daffy09 smallest you can but off ths shelf is 2mm
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Hi me again,
Sorry forgot to add.....
There's a few good internet sites that sell blocks starting from around 2mm (length)
and as for threading the cord - I just simply use a needle or you could just freeze the end instead,
|
|
|
Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
|
I have found that the rigging thread will pass more easily though a small block if you have a beeswax block and rub the thread on the edge of the block to transfer a thin spread of wax. It stiffens the end of the thread and lubricates it.
Mike T
|
|
|
 Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/06/2010 Posts: 20 Points: 63 Location: ROCHESTER
|
hi i have a suggestion for threading the rope blocks and that is a sewing needle threader, cost pennies its fine wire will go through the holes in the blocks ok, and will pull the rope back through the block ok. i have used it myself and works or you twist the rope so it is tight and is its smallest diameter and then place a small drop of super glue allow to dry then cut cut half way along the stiffened section you then end up with an end like a boot lace to aid threading i have used this idea as well. hope this will help you 
|
|
|
 Rank: Amateur level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/06/2010 Posts: 47 Points: 144 Location: Northfleet
|
Mike Turpin wrote:I have found that the rigging thread will pass more easily though a small block if you have a beeswax block and rub the thread on the edge of the block to transfer a thin spread of wax. It stiffens the end of the thread and lubricates it.
Mike T Hi Mike Thats a great option. I had always used wood glue to form a tip/spike. I used the same method (watered down) for the standing/running rigging, when keeping the fluff flat - if you know what I mean. Does beeswax do the same job??? See ya. 
|
|
|
Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
|
Yes it does. You will need to buy a block of beeswax - not a tin of beeswax polish. I found mine in one of those old fashioned iron-mongers shops that sell everything rather than a modern DIY shed! Just looked on the web and would you believe that you can get a block from Amazon!!  Mike T
|
|
|
Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/06/2010 Posts: 242 Points: 720
|
Mike Turpin wrote:Yes it does. You will need to buy a block of beeswax - not a tin of beeswax polish. I found mine in one of those old fashioned iron-mongers shops that sell everything rather than a modern DIY shed! Just looked on the web and would you believe that you can get a block from Amazon!! Mike T Hi Mike, I've heard of this method as well, sounds like the best option. I believe it also keeps the dust off the thread? Cheers
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
You just need to be mindful that the majority of the canon rigging has twine that is folded back on itself to form a simulated splice loop, and also knots tied which are spotted with PVA to bond, where the application of beeswax can prevent a PVA bond.
|
|
|
Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
|
the easey way i found to pass through the small hole is to dip the end of the thread in thin super glue snip at an angle and cut off the end when finished i allow 12mm for point and cutting of
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Sorry for butting in but going back to the original question, what would be the size we would need to sand them down to or replace...2mm 3mm?
|
|
|
Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/03/2010 Posts: 472 Points: 1,357 Location: Hyde
|
Hi there. I've notticed myself that those block supplied with magazine are bit on the BIG side :) I'm going to order 2mm blocks instead. They should be much better for this scale I think. Tom
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
|
Hi Tom,
Let me know if they're a success won't you? I think I'll have my work cut out trying to make the 'kit' blocks smaller, and feel that what promises to be a wonderful model could be let down by these over-sized components, making her look more like a cheap toy.
Happy building
Daffy09
|
|
|
 Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
|
ok here's my tip I've written it before somewhere but I'll repeat. I used an old pair of nose pliers,file the ends down toabout 1/16" or 2mm. you can then grip the block where the groove is,and file/ sandpaper the corners of the block,I then file the groove slightly deeper,you'll be surprised how much smaller the block looks.and then I soak them on a piece of wire,in idian ink.they look more professional black. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/03/2010 Posts: 472 Points: 1,357 Location: Hyde
|
daffy09 wrote:Hi Tom,
Let me know if they're a success won't you? I think I'll have my work cut out trying to make the 'kit' blocks smaller, and feel that what promises to be a wonderful model could be let down by these over-sized components, making her look more like a cheap toy.
Happy building
Daffy09 Hi mate, As soon as I get my new 2mm blocks I'll rig one of the cannons with original ones and new ones. I'll take some pictures later and post them in my build diary for everyone to see the diference. Tom
|
|
|
|
Guest
|
US
