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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2017 Posts: 410 Points: 1,220 Location: Lancashire
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Hi Jase, Well it's taken me awhile but I have now read through your diary and I'm "bang up to date" It's a well presented and informative diary/tutorial with plenty of skills on show, I look forward to the next instalment May.
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MFG wrote:Hi Jase,
Well it's taken me awhile but I have now read through your diary and I'm "bang up to date" It's a well presented and informative diary/tutorial with plenty of skills on show, I look forward to the next instalment
May.
Many thanks May. Shrouds and ratline how to's this week, which will catch my posting up with my progress, ratlines are a slow job Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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Beautiful work Jase  love it  regards Phil  COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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Lower Mast Shrouds Part 1
There is a lot of 'how to' resource on the internet and in books about how to do shrouds, I will be demonstrighting the correct way to hang a shroud and a simplified way for beginners and a method of threading the deadeyes so that your only threading from the back on the upper deadeye where there is more access.
Correct way to hang a shroud.
First point is to observe the formal sequence of the shrouds, not always described in every kit but in this one it is. starboard then port Bow to Stern alternating.
The shrouds are constructed using 0.75mm black thread and 3.5mm deadeyes. Start by adding the first deadeye, using two pieces of Blutak, the deadeye is mounted on the first with the second holding the thread so that you can work hands free Note: leave a gap between the two pieces to allow access for seizing. Use 0.25 thread and tie the thread tight at the top of the dead eye and ad a spot of water down PVA to hold it in place, a second tie about 10mm up and a third tie in the middle
Two small jigs can need to be made at this point made from 1mm brass rod measure approximately 10mm and bend at 90 degrees, then measure 20mm exactly and bend again measure a further 10mm and cut the rod. Using a 1mm drill, drill out all the deadeye holes to allow the threading of the deadeyes. next place the wire jig in the lower hole of the channel mounted deadeye and the upper hole of the deadeye on thread. Approximately measure out the length of the first pair of shrouds leaving enough thread to add a second deadeye with a fall back to the channel.
The shroud should pass between the after crosstree and the middle crosstree around the mast, back down between the the same crosstree on the same side and down to the second deadeye. Mount the second jig in the next channel deadeye and place a deadeye on the top of the jig, use a blob of bluetak to hold the brass wire jig in place. loop the shroud end around the deadeye and securing the end back onto itself with 0.25mm black thread then cut the 075mm thread to length 10mm. tie a further two knots as before. finally tie off the pair of shrouds near the tops with a clove hitch using 0.25mm black thread.
This is the correct method and will give you historically accurate results, however it is very fiddly and time consuming
Simple way to hang a shroud.
This method uses some short cuts but the end result looks exactly the same and is less fiddly.
1. wrap the .75mm thread around the first deadeye and tie it off, then in your fingers, apply some ova glue with a cocktail stick to the end of the thread and hold together until the glue grabs, use a pair of tweezers to pinch the thread above the deadeye
trim the length of the the thread once dry, the thread will peel back to allow this. if you want you can correctly seize the deadeye as before but I find it makes the seizing after threading the deadeyes look lumpy so do not.
2. Mount the deadeye in the first jig andmeasure enough thread to pas around the mast as described above but only leaving enough to tie off at the mast, we are not taking the thread back to the second deadeye. apply ova to the thread where it will come into contact with the back of the mast, Thun using a clamped weight such as a peg or crocodile clip weight the end of the thread while the glue cures
when the glue is dried tie the tread of leaving a small gap between the thread and the mast to allow treading the second shroud through.
3. make up the second shroud in the sam manner but this time tie of through the firs shroud attaching it to the thread against the mast, apply water down PA to hold everything in place. The end result is the same as the correct method but makes the process quicker and more straightforward. repeat this on the other side then come back and do the last two shrouds and repeat agin on the other side.
Job Done, I have chosen to paint mine black at this stage.
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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 Rank: Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/09/2011 Posts: 1,312 Points: 4,126 Location: Austria
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This is a very helpful tutorial.
Thanks Jase!Greetings,
Walter
Present builds:
Revell B-24D Liberator 1:48
On the shelf:
Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....
Completed builds:
McLaren MP4/4, D-51 Steam Locomotive, HMS Victory, GWH F-15D Eagle, St. Stephen`s Cathedral (cardboard), Solar-powered paddle Steamer (little project with my son), HMS Victory X-section, "Geli" Phantom II (cardboard)
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/10/2016 Posts: 4,504 Points: 13,548 Location: Wiltshire
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Great work Jase. Regards, Phil W. Completed projects: 1/43 scale Bedford HA van / 1/43 scale MG TD sports car
Current projects: 1/48 scale U-boat [U230]
Future projects: 1/148 scale railway diorama / 1/50 scale R/C Volvo F89 logging truck / 1/148 scale Thunderbirds Fireflash
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2017 Posts: 410 Points: 1,220 Location: Lancashire
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Hi Jase, Great tutorial, the rigging is the bit that worries me the most so it will be interesting to see how you go about it, May.
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DaDokta wrote:This is a very helpful tutorial.
Thanks Jase! HI Walter, many thanks for your kind words Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Sticky Wickett wrote:Great work Jase.
Regards,
Phil W. Many thanks Phil “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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MFG wrote:Hi Jase,
Great tutorial, the rigging is the bit that worries me the most so it will be interesting to see how you go about it,
May. Hi May, no need to worry about the rigging it looks harder than it is really, more than anything its time consuming but many people enjoy the rigging the most Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Totally agree Jase I love rigging it's like a three D jigsaw and it brings the ship to life Rgd Martyn Building ?
Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa
Next Build ?
When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/09/2011 Posts: 1,312 Points: 4,126 Location: Austria
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Once again fantastic tutorial! This will be very useful for me once i get there with my Vic! Thanks!Greetings,
Walter
Present builds:
Revell B-24D Liberator 1:48
On the shelf:
Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....
Completed builds:
McLaren MP4/4, D-51 Steam Locomotive, HMS Victory, GWH F-15D Eagle, St. Stephen`s Cathedral (cardboard), Solar-powered paddle Steamer (little project with my son), HMS Victory X-section, "Geli" Phantom II (cardboard)
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 Rank: Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 2,065 Points: 6,295 Location: Gorleston-on-sea
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Really awesome work as usual jase...Just one question mate...Where did you get the block of wax from?? Love this tutorial!!  Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2017 Posts: 410 Points: 1,220 Location: Lancashire
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Hi Jase, Another Great tutorial which will help me out a lot later in the build, thanks for doing this, May.
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DaDokta wrote:Once again fantastic tutorial! This will be very useful for me once i get there with my Vic! Thanks! Many thanks for looking in, glad you find it useful Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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jonny7england wrote:Really awesome work as usual jase...Just one question mate...Where did you get the block of wax from?? Love this tutorial!! Hi matey, many thanks for looking in hear is a link for the wax http://www.ebay.co.uk/it...302?hash=item3f54dae526
Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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MFG wrote:Hi Jase,
Another Great tutorial which will help me out a lot later in the build, thanks for doing this,
May. Hi May, Many thanks for looking in and your kind words Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2012 Posts: 1,787 Points: 5,292 Location: Thurso
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Great tutorial Jase, I'll have to keep it for reference for when I get around to starting mine.
Graeme
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