I have intended to compile a short article on how I installed the lighting on my HMS Victory once I had completed my build. But recently there have been number of requests on how I went about things.

The reason for a separate thread is to save having to page some 25 pages in my build diary. Some of the images and text are duplicated from my build diary – sorry about that.

I have called my article ‘Victory Lighting’, but the principles will be applicable to virtually any model.

I must say this up front, before I get into things:

I only have a basic knowledge of electronics, I know enough NOT to touch the 220V AC side – and it’s OK to touch the 12V DC side. That being said in jest, be careful when working with electricity.

I’m sure there are many readers with a sound electronic background, please feel free to correct me if I make blatant mistakes (just be gentile) – we’re all here to learn.

In an attempt to structure the tutorial, I have split it up under the following headings:
1. Thoughts on lighting in models
2. Tools & Materials
3. Basic (Really basic) Electronics
4. Ambient Lighting
5. Lanterns
6. Getting the wires in

Below are some images of my Victory in progress showing my attempt at Ambient light (Between decks) and Direct light (Lanterns)

You lit up Victory looks fantastic!

I'm sure there are those that will benefit from your experience of doing yours

Fantastic work Garth. well done

1. Thoughts on lighting in models

In the past, the basic lights available to model builders were small incandescent light bulbs, the types used in torches and automotive dash lights etc. If you wished to use anything smaller, grain of wheat light bulbs was available largely from the Doll House & model railroad fraternity.

Unfortunately, these tiny incandescent light bulbs require periodic maintenance.
LED’s on the other hand, claim to have many thousand-hour lifespan. This is more suitable to my needs as once my ship is closed-up, they will be inaccessible.

Another point about LED’s is that they generate very little heat, which I prefer once closed up in essentially a pile of kindling.

As LED’s have developed over the years, they have become more and more user friendly. The LED strips are essentially plug-and-play. Simply solder the Red wires to the +, the Black wires to the – and then connect to the transformer. The other LED’s are slightly trickier, but more of that later.

LED’s are available in a variety of colours and sizes. They can be defused and colour changed simply using gels or cellophane. Even sweet wrappers will work.

So, for me, the choice is simple – LED’s are the answer to my lighting requirements.

I used a combination of surface mounted LED’s, 1 in each lantern, and LED strips, the type used for under counter lighting for the ambient lighting effects.

3. Basic (Really basic) Electronics

As I mentioned earlier, I am no electronics Guru, in fact I am an electronics ‘hack’. I know just enough to get by. Therefore, this is not an electronics tutorial. Basic electronics is a hobby in its own right, and should you be interested; a web search will provide all the info required.

Thanks to Mr T for providing me with a link to an excellent article on LED’s. This discusses the theory around LED’s and is an excellent starting point.

The copy right belongs to Written by Gary Roberts for Model Ship world (www.modelshipworld.com).

http://modelshipworldfor...odel_ships%20anodes.pdf

Please be mindful that my article only describes the materials and methods that I used in my lighting process. There are many other materials and configurations that will work just as well. Perhaps 3mm, or even 5mm LED’s will work in the lanterns?

If you have any uncertainty with the components, I found the staff at the electronics shop very helpful, they did all the calculations and gave me the components that I required. All that I had to do was assemble them.

My Circuit

I drilled a small hole in the keel for the wires. I intend to hide this in the stand. The power supply will be below the stand. I’m still not completely sure how I’m going to do this. (that is the reason for leaving that topic until the end of the article)

Once in, I split the wires, one direction going to the LED strips and the other to the SMD PC board.

Connecting the LED strips is fairly easy. Solder the Red wires to the (+) and Black wires to the (-). If you accidentally swap the polarity, the LED will fail to light up – simply reverse the wires and it should work.

The PC board is a little more complicated, but I will upload some pics when I deal with the lanterns. That should make it easier to understand.

I have included a basic schematic diagram of my lighting system (hopefully it explains what I have attempted to convey in the text)

Soldering

Tinning. If you battle to make a proper solder joint, try the tinning method. Essentially a small amount of solder is applied, individually, to the two items to be joined together. This is called ‘tinning’. The two items are then held in contact with each other and a small amount of heat is introduced, by the tip of the soldering iron. When the heat melts the solder, remove the tip and the parts will be joined. Not all components require tinning. Do some tests off the job.

Tips

Keep the tip of the soldering iron clean and free of excess solder. Periodically wipe it off on the sponge, or a damp cloth.

Ensure that the soldering iron has reached operating temperature. Touch a piece of solder to the tip – it should melt instantly.

Do NOT inhale the vapours that are generated by the soldering process.

Practice on surplus components until you are happy with your technique.
Periodically test your circuit to ensure that everything works. If one LED or LED strip does not light up – check the polarity and then the solder joints.

Hi Brian,
Thanks for looking in.
Kind regards,
Garth

5. Lanterns

5.1 Wiring the Main Mast
5.2 Modifying the Lantern
5.3 Electronics & Assembly

5.1 I think that the most difficult part of this exercise was getting the wires up the Main Mast.

First prize would be to cut a groove in a portion of the fore end of the main mast dowel before the bindings have been added. The groove will be covered later by the Rubbing Paunch. This will have to be planned for well ahead of time.

If, like me, your mast is complete, another method will have to be used.

I think the easiest method is to cut a slot cut into the Rubbing Paunch (the 5x2mm strip on the front of the mast)

Either way, some drilling is going to be required. A Ø3mm hole will have to be drilled up the centre of the mast slightly past the Rubbing Paunch. (±150mm)

As I was unable to purchase an extra length drill bit, I made my own. I silver soldered a piece of Ø3mm brass tube to a Ø3mm Brad Point wood drill bit. I decided to use the Brad Point wood drill bit as it has self-cantering tip.

My next concern was how to keep the drill aligned. I made a drilling guide out of Ø20mm x 100mm Grey PVC. Fortunately, it fits into the chuck of my lathe. I drilled a Ø10mm hole about 50mm deep on one end and a Ø3mm hole on the other.

Theoretically this should start the drill bit perfectly centred and keep it going all the way up the mast.

I used a hand drill to do the drilling and periodically removed it in order to expel the wood shavings.

Once the holes were drilled, I fed fishing line through from the top and pulled the wires through.

My confession.

I opted for the most difficult method, drilling the mast up to the fighting top. I followed my instructions to the tee. Made the drilling jig, drilled slowly, removed the shavings regularly, and fortunately, the drill broke through the mast just under the fighting top - exactly where I intended to run the wires!!!

Well, after patting myself on the back and congratulating myself on a job well done - horror of all horrors, I had just bored a hole through the fore mast!!!
Fortunately, the fore and main mast are the same diameter, I repeated the boring but the drill did not stay true. It broke through the mast about half way up. All is not lost though, I carefully removed the rubbing paunch, and cut a grove to hide the wires. I filled the holes in the mast and re stained them. The surgery is evident when looking close-up, but once all is completed, there is so much going on with the rigging and sails, it won't be noticed.

All’s well that ends well, that was 3 years ago and completely forgotten.

Hi Alan,
Thank you for looking in and for the kind words.
Regards,
Garth

Hi Brian,
Thank you for looking in and for your comments. We're finally getting to the interesting bits. I'll try to complete No 5 in the next week or two.
Kind regards,
Garth

Hi Dave,
Thanks for looking in.
Kind regards,
Garth