|
|
 Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/07/2017 Posts: 26 Points: 51 Location: kent
|
Are you sticking with green for the paint job?
|
|
|
 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1  Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
|
So far I'm sticking with the green. My second choice was black. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
|
First mock-up. I'm liking the wheels. Much work still to go. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
|
|
|
 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
|
Quite a modification to the body work so far, I'm loving. While watching a 'Fired Up Garage', I think they were doing a Cuda off the top of my head, I heard them mention that black is a difficult colour to do as it shows every little defect. It would certainly show off your prep if you went with this colour 
|
|
|
 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/04/2015 Posts: 3 Points: 12 Location: Scottsdale AZ
|
StevieDisco wrote:I'm also going to repaint the body. I use a paint stripper and a wire brush and steel wool to remove the paint followed by soaking the parts in Castrol Super Clean (de-greaser). The kit body parts are very nicely tooled pieces but still needed some TLC. Flat sanding from course (in places) followed by medium and fine (600 grit). I then sprayed on several coats of Tamiya Fine Primer. Next step will be to wet sand a spray on more primer. I'll then store the parts until I receive the remaining body parts and give them the same treatment. I'd prefer to paint all of the body parts at the same time for consistency.
Note also that I decided to remove the hood-pin locks from the hood. I was lucky enough to own one in 1967 and that is just how I remember it looking!!! Beautiful work!! Mine was white with blue strips.
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
|
Here's what the body looks like after it's been stripped and rough sanded. It looks worse than it really is. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
|
|
|
|
|
Beautiful work, enjoy seeing your improvements.... Regards Alan
|
|
|
 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
|
StevieDisco wrote:Here is my prototype starter relay (solenoid) for the Shelby. I used 1/4" Evergreen angle stock, 3/16" round tube, .040" sheet, 0-80 and 00-90 screws & nuts. I need to tweak it a bit but overall it looks to be both functional and visually acceptable. I'd appreciate any comments and/or suggestions as well as maybe photos of other members versions. I'm also making a voltage regulator.
On another note, I had to re-do my front brake calipers after inadvertently putting the brake line fitting on the wrong side. That's what happens when you work in the shop until the wee hours of the morning. Oh well. It gave me a chance to re-paint it bright red instead of Italian red which just didn't look right. I should have those done by this weekend and will post pictures.
Thanks again for all comments and suggestions. Stevie, thi is super and amazing detail. Thanks for sharing with us all. What is 1/4" Evergreen angle stock, and did you use metal or wood 3/16" round tube? Also, what is .040" sheet? Can you post a few photos of seperate items here to clarify? I'm in the US and I've never heard of evergreen angle. Rich
|
|
|
Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
|
Hi Rich, Evergreen plastic products are sold in many hobby shops or you can buy direct at EvergreenScaleModels.com. They offer styrene plastic products for scratch builders in many different shapes including the angle and tubes I referenced. I would highly recommend getting their book "Basic & Advanced Tips and Techniques for Styrene Modeling". Once you get into scratch building with the various shapes they offer you will look at things differently. Almost every part you are looking to replicate can be broken down to a group of individual unique shapes. In addition to the angles, Evergreen also offers quarter-round, half-round, channel, etc. The .040 sheet is the thickness of the styrene sheet they sell. They offer sheet styrene in many thicknesses. I hope this helps, Steve FYI, the paper punch I used was a standard 1/4" and not 14" like the photo says. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Nice work so far Stevie, looking really good and some cool modifications too - very well done.  
Kev 
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
|
Thanks for the information Stevie. Very informative. May check them out right now.
Rich
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/11/2016 Posts: 133 Points: 404 Location: North Carolina, USA
|
Steve, I know it's been a while. But I was wondering where you purchased your 0-80 and 0-90 screws and nuts? Is the sizes 0-80 and 0-90 OR 00-80 and 00-90?
I'm going to try my hand at the starter relay. If it comes out good, I'm going to try my hand at the voltage regulator.
Thanks Steve for your input,
Rich
|
|
|
|
Guest (2)
|
US
