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Victory Lighting Options
Garth
#21 Posted : 01 August 2017 14:33:55

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Location: Glenvista JHB
5.3 Electronics & Assembly

I used a small piece of Vero Board to mount my resistors, this is not absolutely necessary. They can be soldered, in series, to the wire. I always connect my resistors to the Positive side, it’s just my rule of thumb. It helps me to quickly distinguish between the Positive and Negative wires.

Soldering the wires to the Surface Mounted LED (SMD) can be tricky. The ones I used are 3.4mm x 1.5mm. I stuck them onto a piece of styrene with some double-sided tape. This kept them still as I soldered the wires on.

There will be some kind of marking on the cathode side. It differs between the various manufactures, it may be a blue strip, dot or indentation. Whatever it is, the mark indicates the cathode (-) side of the LED.

Once the wires have been attached, connect them to the power supply to give them their first test. If they do not come on, reverse the polarity. NOTE!!! Remember to connect them to the resistor first.

Feed the wires through stem of the lantern and mount the LED on a small block of wood or styrene to insulate it.

Test it again just to make sure there are no short circuits.

Follow the instructions to finish assembling the lanterns and test again before you install them.

Garth attached the following image(s):
DSC_1410_02.jpg
DSC_1434_02.jpg
DSC_1435_02.jpg
DSC_1436_02.jpg
DSC_1439_02.jpg
DSC_1440_02.jpg
DSC_1430_02.jpg
"Measure twice, cut once!!!"
Finished!!! HMS Victory,
Current build: Black Pearl.
On hold: Bismarck, Golden Hind, Flying Scotsman, Victory Cross Section, SOTS, Tiger 1.
Wish list: USS Constitution.
tigerace
#22 Posted : 01 August 2017 15:55:58

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Wow that really looks effectiveBigGrin outstandingDrool regards PhilCool
COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models

So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!


davetwin
#23 Posted : 01 August 2017 19:42:53

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That's very fine work done very neatly Blink great job Cool
Gandale
#24 Posted : 01 August 2017 20:00:46

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Now that does look great, very nicely done....Drool Drool

Regards

Alan
Garth
#25 Posted : 02 August 2017 12:15:50

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Joined: 29/03/2011
Posts: 1,053
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Location: Glenvista JHB
Hi Guys,
Thanks for looking in and for the kind words.
Regards,
Garth
"Measure twice, cut once!!!"
Finished!!! HMS Victory,
Current build: Black Pearl.
On hold: Bismarck, Golden Hind, Flying Scotsman, Victory Cross Section, SOTS, Tiger 1.
Wish list: USS Constitution.
Garth
#26 Posted : 18 August 2017 12:14:43

Rank: Master

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourOutstanding Build: An award for an outstanding build
Groups: Registered

Joined: 29/03/2011
Posts: 1,053
Points: 3,165
Location: Glenvista JHB
6. Getting the wires in….

I had hoped to have this part of my model completed by this time, but unfortunately it is not. As a result, images and a description will have to suffice.

I have chosen quite an elaborate stand mechanism; two fairly thin up-stands connected to the hull and a timber base. It is an attempt to have the ship appear to be suspended in the air rather than stuck to the ground by an unsightly, bulky frame.

I prepared the hull for this before planking was completed.

I made the hull screw mounting by drilling a 4.5mm hole and tapping an M5 thread into two small pieces of 12mm square bar. I glued two pieces of Supa Wood on either side to hold it them in place. I do not recall exactly where I placed them. My images indicate between frame 22 & 23, but this is purely indicative.

I will have to make two M5 studs, threaded on each end. The one will have a Ø 3mm drilled straight through. This will provide access to the wires. Unfortunately, this side of things remains theoretical.

Once the wires were inserted into the hull, I split them and had one set going forward to the bow and the other going aft to the stern. That should provide enough options.

On the base side of things, I would like 2 sets of lighting and switches. One for the ship and the other for down-lighters in the cabinet. The exact power supply will depend on the one required for the down-lighter. The power supply will be fitted below the frame.

That concludes my article on lighting. Once again please be mindful that this has been a work in progress since 2011. It is the rout that I took and my lighting process, it’s not perfect, but it works for me. Products may become available that are more suitable than what I have used, and by all means use them.
My main goal for this article was to show that lighting can be fairly simple and that by following a few rules it is achievable by most modelers. I hope that I have achieved that.

ooOOOoo

Garth attached the following image(s):
DSC_9858_02.jpg
DSC_9860_02.jpg
DSC_9861_02.jpg
DSC_9862_02.jpg
Stand Wires 01_01.jpg
Stand Wires 02_01.jpg
Stand Wires 03_01.jpg
"Measure twice, cut once!!!"
Finished!!! HMS Victory,
Current build: Black Pearl.
On hold: Bismarck, Golden Hind, Flying Scotsman, Victory Cross Section, SOTS, Tiger 1.
Wish list: USS Constitution.
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