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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2017 Posts: 78 Points: 240 Location: Honolulu
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There were two ways I thought of tackling this build. One was constructing the model by section: kabuto, do, kusazuri etc, the other was to work on the construction according to build method: adhesive, sewing, chain-mail, etc. I decided to proceed by construction method beginning with the menpo (face mask). I originally attached the ears with all purpose contact adhesive (something I had available). I did a light sand of the contact points before gluing them on. The adhesive didn't seem to be holding so I resorted to super glue. I was worried about fume markings. I kept the parts in the open to prevent any of the white build up. I kept a close eye on the a parts for any visible fuming. I attached the rings for the bottom of the hachi (helmet crown) using super glue. I let the rings air dry for at least a half hour and eventually taped the rings together and set them aside to all the glue to fully cure. ZetaForge attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Looking good  I dont think super glue is the best for this build though, it's too brittle - you need something more general or an epoxy based glue for metal to metal adhesion. Steve
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2017 Posts: 78 Points: 240 Location: Honolulu
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Hi stevie_o.
Thanks for following my build and thanks for the tip. I agree, I was planning on two part epoxy for the majority of the build. I used super glue for the smaller parts.
If the bond gives out, I'll probably reattach them with epoxy.
-Russ
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Rank: Administration        Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,430 Points: 24,381 Location: East midlands
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Hi Russ, Having a full kit does give you a choice of build methods, but please keep a check on future stages just in case you might make further stages more difficult. Wish you Luck and enjoyment in your build and congrats on your "Blue" medal for starting a build. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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 Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/09/2016 Posts: 19 Points: 47
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On the subject of adhesive, I've never really trusted the cuirass joints, initially I used superglue (with the joining surfaces scraped back to bare metal), but when a couple of these came apart I redid them with epoxy, but I still felt they were brittle. As I posted elsewhere, they didn't survive a trip to the floor - I know that's an extreme test. As I had a spare front cuirass plate pack due to paint issues, I've done an experiment using Sikaflex 291 marine adhesive/sealant. Results look hopeful, after 24hrs curing there's no movement under quite firm thumb pressure. I'll probably attempt to repair it using this when I get round to it, although it will need careful masking to avoid it oozing onto places it shouldn't go.
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2017 Posts: 78 Points: 240 Location: Honolulu
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delboy271155 - Thank you for the advice and congratulations. I am worried about the repercussions of doing the steps out of sequence. I read all the instructions through a couple of times before starting and frequently read ahead to keep my memory fresh. The build diaries of other members was also really important. So thanks to all the members who have built the armor before me. Thanks for the reminder, it's easy to caught up in the moment and forget future steps. It's a good cautionary to those building the full kit in the future too. Macky42 - Thanks for sharing your experience with adhesives. I'm thinking of epoxy for the do (cuirass). Please keep us posted on how the Sikaflex 291 works. I'm not familiar with it. Oozing is definitely one of my big fears using epoxy. I personally feel more comfortable with controlling superglue gel than epoxy for fine detail work. But then there's the risk of fume marks. On a different note, thanks to everyone following my build and bearing with my use of the Japanese terms. It's my way to remember the terms I learned and expand my vocabulary. Otherwise, I don't think I'd use terms like kusazuri, sode and maedate very often.
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 Looking Good and nice work. Another tip:- when you get to doing the beard take less than you think you will need and pull the hair through the holes by wrapping fishing line around the hair and have a dowel handle fixed to the fishing line at the other end to help with pulling it through the holes. Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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I look forward to following your build Russ Mark Regards Markwarren (Mark) Admin
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2017 Posts: 78 Points: 240 Location: Honolulu
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Hi arpurchase - Thanks for looking in on my build and the tip. Your build diary was one of the first diary's I read and, one that I referenced several times as I was preparing to start my build. Markwarren - Thanks for following my build diary. So continuing on. No fume marks on the rings of the hachi (helmet crown)...or so I thought. After taking off the tape holding the rings together, I noticed fume marks formed under the tape. The fumes adhered to fingerprints I left on the parts. It looked a little like a forensic team had been looking for fingerprints at a crime scene. Lesson learned, I should have used clamps. I had some lying around too. I was able to remove the fume marks using acetone, specifically, nail polish remover. I did a test spot to see if the chemicals would damage the finish. The gloss black seems to be durable enough to survive the acetone. ZetaForge attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Hi Russ,
I decided to use medium viscosity CA glue for my build. Yes, it is brittle and I did drop a piece or two which needed repair. However, the speed and ease of the CA out weighted its shortcoming. CA debonder also allowed me to quickly clean up a broken part and removed a smudge completely without hurting the finish at all. I attached a curiass hinge plated incorrectly and the glue had set. A few drops of debonder and 30 seconds later the pieces separated. I used a little more debonaire on a t-shirt rag to clean and reset the part correctly. (Rotate your clean up rag each touch so you done smudge the part.) Date has been standing tall now for almost 9 months now and nothing has fallen off.
Just a for what is is worth thought.
Work looks great so far.
Tom
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2017 Posts: 78 Points: 240 Location: Honolulu
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Hi Tom- Thank you for your input on the CA and debonder. I've been using CA gel. It ends up being more convenient than epoxy for the smaller parts like the menpo ears and posts. I've never used CA debonder before. Is there a big difference between using it vs. acetone or nail polish remover? BTW, I enjoyed reading through your build diary. Your diary was one of those that I browsed through a few times to get an idea of what was coming up. The Yoroi Bitsu (armor storage box) you built turned out great. Continuing with my build, I super glued the posts for the kabuto tie and the hooks for the nose piece to the menpo (face mask). Followed the instructions and no surprises. There is a bit of play once you hook the nose piece on to the menpo. I was worried about paint rub so I sprayed the inside of the nose piece with Plasti Dip to create a rubber buffer. The inside of the menpo is usually red. I may coat the inside with red Plasti Dip later. As I opened the different stages, I began to notice many of the pieces had noticeable blemishes. I contacted DeAgostini customer service who'll be replacing the parts. Spent some time inspecting all the parts to see how many have blemishes. There are at least two rows of kusazuri (tassets) including a number of other parts. I've included pics of some of the parts. ZetaForge attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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It`s coming on nicely  glad that C.S. are replacing the parts  well done so far  regards Phil COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Russ,
I am not able to answer you directly on the CA debonder vs acetone question. The debonder bottle does not list ingredient and it is a squirt bottle so I could not get a whiff to compare. I did not try acetone on the model. What I liked about it was it didn't hurt the finish. Perhaps someone here has chemical knowledge.
Thanks for your comments on my build. The storage box did turn out well but with Date on it it is mostly hidden! Funny how much you learn when it is all over!
Tom
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 Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/09/2016 Posts: 19 Points: 47
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ZetaForge wrote:I began to notice many of the pieces had noticeable blemishes I had several as well, including the ones in your pictures, plus the main breastplate. The smallest neckguard piece even had rust under the paint..that might have implications for storage longer term.
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2017 Posts: 78 Points: 240 Location: Honolulu
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I received my replacement parts. Kudo's to DeAgostini customer service for the quick turn around on sending the parts. There were several parts that I requested replacements for, 42 in all. A few parts are backordered but enough of the parts arrived to continue the build. Back to the helmet. I attached the visor and maedate (crest) mount. The visor had a bit of play after being attached with just the rivets. Initially, I had thought of using small pieces of felt to keep the visor from moving. The felt proved to be too thick and threw off the alignment of the rivets. In the end, I used a bit of epoxy to hold the visor in place. ZetaForge attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2017 Posts: 78 Points: 240 Location: Honolulu
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Getting the maedate mount centered and straight was a bit nerve-racking. Not only does the mount attach to the visor which is curved but the mount itself has an āLā shape meaning it could be off center when looking at it from the front and from the top. Compounding that, the maedate itself, the gold crescent, is wide. A small deviation at the center would translate to a much bigger deviation at either end of the crescent. I wish there had been markings of some kind to aid with alignment. I did several test fittings and, as per the instructions, used tape to mark the position of the maedate mount before attaching. I checked the position of the maedate mount from several angles...many times before I finally committed to gluing it into place. I used epoxy and double checked the position of the mount as the epoxy cured. ZetaForge attached the following image(s):
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Nice clean work and all looking good..... Regards Alan
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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Great work on that  looks superb  regards Phil COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/12/2015 Posts: 246 Points: 776 Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Looks great Russ. You will LOVE the neck guard lacing! Tom
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 Nicely done and great work Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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