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Jaguar E-Type Official Build Diary - issues 36 - 40 Options
Spal
#1 Posted : 03 November 2017 13:00:23

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Issue 36

Contents: Windscreen wiper motor, Engine stabiliser mounting, Throttle linkage, Voltage control unit, Reservoir bracket, Glass reservoir, Washer assembly, Heater water control tap, Washer tube, Heater motor, Heater case and Screws.

Take the throttle linkage and align it with the bulkhead assembly, pressing the three pins into the matching holes. Take the wiper motor and align the keyhole-shaped lug on the back with the matching hole below the linkage.Press the motor into place, turn the assembly over, and secure with a screw. Match up the two pins on the engine stabiliser mount with the matching holes in the centre of the bulkhead and press into place, securing it from behind with a screw.

Press the water control tap into the holes adjacent to the stabiliser mount and from the rear drive a screw in to secure it. Take the reservoir bracket and align the keyhole-shaped lug on the back with the matching hole next to the tap and again secure it from the rear with a screw. Fit the cap to the reservoir, matching up the keyhole shaped lug, and secure it with a screw before placing it into the reservoir bracket noting its correct position.Use tweezers to fit the tube into the holes on the cap and bulkhead.

Fit the voltage control unit into its hole, securing it with a screw from behind. Line up the heater motor with the heater case and drive a screw through the centre of the motor to secure it. Align the three pins on the heater case with the three
holes adjacent to the reservoir, pressing it into place before securing it from behind with a screw.

This issue is now complete. Store the assembly and any unused parts in an issue labelled bag.

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Spal
#2 Posted : 06 November 2017 20:52:14

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
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Posts: 4,588
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Location: West Yorkshire
Issue 37

Contents: Left-hand mudshield, Right-hand mudshield, Battery leads,Battery, Gearbox mountings (x 2), Screws

Take the completed bulkhead from Stage 36 and align it with the assembly from Stage 34, noting the eight
mounting points on the subframe.Bring the two together so that the mounting points go into the matching holes in the bulkhead and the end of the steering column fits through its clearance hole.
Holding the parts together, use tweezers to fit the end of the throttle rod into the hole in the throttle linkage, and fit the end of the water hose into the hole in the bulkhead.

Drive a screw into the the top right hole to secure the subframe. Fit another screw to the hole on the left side to secure the left-hand upper brace.Secure the lower right-hand diagonal brace with another screw and do the same on the left-hand side.Use more screws to secure the right-hand inner side
of the subframe at the top and at the bottom and repeat this for the left hand inner side mountings.You have now secured all eight arms of the subframe.

Take one of the gearbox mountings supplied this time, and fit it into the recess at the back of the gearbox.Screw the mounting to the side of the gearbox using two screws then repeat this with the second mounting on the opposite side.Now drive two  screws in to fix the gearbox mounting to
the bulkhead and repeat this for the other side to complete the gearbox mountings.

This issue is now complete. Store the assembly and any unused parts in an issue labelled bag.
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Spal
#3 Posted : 11 November 2017 10:38:27

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
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Joined: 19/06/2013
Posts: 4,588
Points: 13,553
Location: West Yorkshire
Issue 38

Contents: Wheel rim (outer) inner spokes x 24

Take the battery and battery leads provided with Issue 37, and position them as shown.Plug the two battery connections firmly into the holes in the top of the battery. Align the post on the bottom of the battery with the hole in
the left-hand mudshield and having pressed the battery firmly into place, turn the assembly over and use a screw to fix the battery to the mudshield. Slide the assembly into the subframe, just under the heater motor and hold the mudshield in place, until it is secured with a screw.Fit the end of the battery lead into the notch in the voltage regulator unit. This completes the left-hand side of the engine bay.

Take the end of the cluster of hydraulic and fuel pipes that you fitted in Stage 35, and lead it up behind the air filter plugging the end into the hole in the subframe underneath the plenum chamber.Use tweezers to take the end of the vacuum hose connected to the brake servo and plug the pin on it into the hole in the end of the air balance pipe running across the top of the inlet manifold.Slide the right-hand mudshield, which fits under the air filter, into place Fitting a screw up through the mudshield into the hole in the centre of the air filter. Now secure the mudshield to the bulkhead with a screw.

This issue is now complete. Store the assembly and any unused parts in an issue labelled bag.

Spal attached the following image(s):
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Spal
#4 Posted : 15 November 2017 12:27:03

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 19/06/2013
Posts: 4,588
Points: 13,553
Location: West Yorkshire
Issue 39

Contents: Wheel centre, inner spokes x 24, spoke retainer ring, retaining screws

Note: Those that made the spare wheel using the  2-spoke cross over method should continue to use that method for the rest of the
wheels, and those that did the 3- spoke experienced method should continue to use that method. The official build will follow the experienced build method.

Take the wheel centre and fit it onto the wheel building jig with the smaller diameter flange first. Note that the hole in the centre has a slot that engages with a matching tab on the jig to lock it in one position. Fit the outer wheel rim onto the wheel building jig so that the hole in the outer flange fits over the matching pin on one arm of the jig, locking the rim in position. Press the rim down between the four arms.

To keep the spokes in place during assembly carefully cut a strip of double sided tape measuring about 1.5-2mm wide and 160mm long. Using a cocktail stick or something similar, work the strip of double sided tape right down into the groove all around the rim, then peel off the backing strip to reveal the adhesive layer.

Each of the spokes has a pinhead on one end, this will lock the spokes into the wheel centre. The spokes also have two bends so that they will fit at the correct angle. Fit a spoke through one of the lower row of holes in the wheel centre and pull it through until the cranked end reaches the groove around the rim. The length and angle of the spoke means it will only fit snugly into one of the angled grooves around the rim. Lay the cranked end in whichever groove it reaches and press the tip down into the double sided tape. Then fit another spoke through the next one of the lower row of holes in the wheel centre, fitting as you did previously and laying the end into the next but one notch in the rim, stick the tip down.
Repeat the process until you have fitted 24 spokes into the alternate holes all the way round the rim, the whole of the lower row of holes in the wheel centre will have spokes fitted into them.

Take another spoke and fit it into one of the upper holes in the wheel centre, angling it in the opposite way to the first set of spokes. Work around the upper row of holes in the wheel centre, taking each spoke in turn to the next notch in the rim. Repeat the process until you have fitted 24 spokes into the alternate holes all the way round the rim. The tips of all 48 spokes should all be sitting in the grooves around the rim, angled in alternate directions.

Take the spoke retainer ring which has an array of notches that match the ones in the rim and four projecting tabs with holes for screws, which will go into the holes on the outer wheel rim. Making sure you do not dislodge any of the spokes from their notches, invert the retainer ring over the rim so that the four tabs match up with the holes and the notches fit over the spokes. Insert screws into each of the four holes and tighten them to lock the retainer ring in place, then pull the wheel building jig away to release the part build wheel. You will fit the inner rim and remaining 24 spokes later on.

This issue is now complete. Store the assembly and any unused parts in an issue labelled bag

Spal attached the following image(s):
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Spal
#5 Posted : 18 December 2017 11:18:48

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 19/06/2013
Posts: 4,588
Points: 13,553
Location: West Yorkshire
Issue 40

Contents: Outer spokes (Type A) x 12, Outer spokes (Type B) x 12, Wheel rim (inner) Spacer ring, screws

Take all the parts supplied this time together with the wheel assembly you completed in Issue 39.  Cut a strip of double sided tape measuring about 1.5-2mm wide and 160mm long.  Lay this in the groove that retains the ends of the spokes.  Work the strip of double sided tape right down into the groove all around the rim then peel off the backing strip to reveal the adhesive layer.
Start by taking one of the spokes from the packet labelled ‘A’.  Fit it through one of the lower row of holes in the wheel centre and thread the cranked end down through the ‘V’ formed by the closest pair of inner spokes.  Turn the wheel over and lay the end of the spoke into the angled groove in the rim (it will only reach one).  Press the cranked end of the spoke down into the double-sided tape to hold it in position.
Now take a spoke from packet ‘B’.  Fit it through the upper row of holes in the wheel centre, using the hole above and to the left of the one fitted previously.  Take the cranked end across the spoke you just fitted and down through the ‘V’ of the next pair of inner spokes.  Turn the wheel over and lay the end of the spoke into the next angled groove in the rim, with its cranked end pointing towards the end of the first spoke you fitted.  Press it into the double-sided tape to hold it in position.
Take another spoke from packet ‘A’.  Fit it through the next one of the lower row of holes in the wheel centre and then down between the next pair of inner spokes.  Turn the wheel over and lay the end of the spoke into the next notch in the rim, sticking the tip down as you’ve done previously.  Take another spoke from packet ‘B’.  Fit it through the hole above and to the left of the one fitted previously, across the spoke you just fitted and down through the ‘V’ of the next two inner spokes, secure the end to the rim.
Continue working round the wheel centre, alternating ‘A’ and ‘B’ spokes, crossing them over and feeding the tips through successive pairs of inner spokes.  Repeat the process until you have fitted all 24 spokes into the alternate holes all the way round the rim.  All the ends of the spokes should be lying in the groove around the rim.
Take the spacer ring and align the hole with the pin projecting from the wheel rim.  Fit the spacer ring over the ends of the spokes then align the pin with the hole in the inner wheel rim.  Press the inner wheel rim into place which will align the four screw holes.  Drive a screw into each of the holes to complete the wheel.

This issue is now complete. Store the assembly and any unused parts in an issue labelled bag
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