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 Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/04/2010 Posts: 48 Points: 133
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Take it your aware that there is a huge amount of detail yet to be added to the hull side.
What did you use to sheath, tiles, tape or paint?
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/04/2010 Posts: 48 Points: 133
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I used copper tape 36 yards. One roll not enough which surprised me. Since the plating represents the part of the vessel that lies in the water - and having looked a the pictures on the front cover of the mag I cannot see where the extra detail will be added, any further info on what needs to be added would be appreciated. 
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2011 Posts: 865 Points: 2,410 Location: Cambs
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Looks good Spigs, I stained and varnished my hull a bit too early which made things a little awkward, but that was due to me misreading mr T's build, but like you I can't see too much detail from the pictures in the mags. Where did you get your tape from? I may use some for my Cutty Sark Come on you Jimmies
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/04/2010 Posts: 48 Points: 133
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saintsman123 wrote:Looks good Spigs, I stained and varnished my hull a bit too early which made things a little awkward, but that was due to me misreading mr T's build, but like you I can't see too much detail from the pictures in the mags.
Where did you get your tape from? I may use some for my Cutty Sark Tempsford stained glass. I will have used two rolls 7/32" wide - which is the width of a hull plank - £.6.20 per roll. When first applied it looks like a newly minted copper coin,but it gradually assumes a patina of an aged coin - if you know what I mean
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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I'm talking about above the waterline, where there is still lots of work to be done and deatil to be added, such as the cutting down of the bulwarks and adding the capping etc, and where your going to need good bonds for such as fore channels where you'll need to scrape paint.
Copper tape looks a nice touch.
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Rank: Amateur level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/04/2010 Posts: 48 Points: 133
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 Tomick wrote:I'm talking about above the waterline, where there is still lots of work to be done and deatil to be added, such as the cutting down of the bulwarks and adding the capping etc, and where your going to need good bonds for such as fore channels where you'll need to scrape paint.
Copper tape looks a nice touch. I thought of that before painting,so I painted a strip of wood,left it to dry and then glued it to a scrap of wood and it held ok. I would rather paint intricate parts before they are placed in situ - but if things dont work then yes - I will need to scrape paint. On the subject of coppering I used a pounce wheel to replicate the riveting,and whilst it is fiddly I am happy with the outcome.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1  Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/05/2010 Posts: 67 Points: 201 Location: Staffordshire
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That looks really nice. A good
idea to use tape like that. I will
see what DeAgostini offer, then
maybe adopt your idea.
It looks really nice. Well done.
Jim
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