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Porsche 911 Carrera RS Official Build - pack 1 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 18 December 2017 15:05:19

Rank: Pro

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 48,051
Points: -13,308
The Porsche 911 Carrera 2.7 RS – the original Rennsport 911 - The first factory-built production Porsche 911 built purely with competition in mind, the 2.7 RS has gone down in the history books as the car that cemented the 911's sporting pedigree.

The 911 is a two-door, 2+2 high performance classic German sports car made since 1963 by Porsche AG of Stuttgart, Germany. It has a rear-mounted six cylinder boxer engine and all round independent suspension. It has undergone continuous development, though the basic concept has remained little changed. The engines were air-cooled until the introduction of the Type 996 in 1998, with Porsche's "993" series, produced in model years 1994–1998, being the last of the air-cooled Porsche's.

RS stands for Rennsport in German, meaning race sport. The Carrera name was reintroduced from the 356 Carrera which had itself been named after Porsche's class victories in the Carrera Panamericana races in Mexico in the 1950s. The RS was built to meet motorsport homologation requirements. Compared to a standard 911S, the Carrera 2.7 RS had a larger engine (2,687 cc) developing 210 hp with Bosch Kugelfischer) mechanical fuel injection, revised and stiffened suspension, a "ducktail" rear spoiler, larger brakes, wider rear wheels and rear fenders.

In the 1999 international poll for the award, the 911 came fifth. It is one of two in the top five that had remained continuously in production (the original Beetle remained in production until 2003), and was until 1998 a successful surviving application of the air- (now water-) cooled opposed rear-engine layout pioneered by its ancestor, the Porsche 356.

In 2004, Sports Car International named the 911 number three on the list of Top Sports Cars of the 1960s, the Carrera RS number seven on the list of Top Sports Cars of the 1970s, and the 911 Carrera number seven on the list of Top Sports Cars of the 1980s. In addition, the 911 was voted Number 2 on Automobile Magazine's list of the "100 Coolest Cars". In 2015, Car and Driver named the Porsche 911 "the best premium sports car on the market.

The 911 is one of the oldest sports coupé nameplates still in production with one million manufactured as of May 2017.

The Porsche 911 Carrera RS 2.7 model kit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OttfcwI6ybY

1:8 scale - Official Porsche AG licensed product.

Length 50cm, Width 18cm, Height 16cm

Weight: 8kg

Pre-painted 'grand prix white' die-cast metal body with red Carrera script.

Operable: suspension, front & rear lighting. Opening doors, engine cover & hood. Steerable wheels via the steering wheel. Fuchs wheels with authentic tread pattern tyres.

Made of die-cast metal, ABS plastic and thermoplastic rubber, this is a must-have model for any collector or Porsche fan. The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible.

Order here: https://www.model-space....orsche-911-carrera.html

Video build: https://www.youtube.com/...pgPNVbpRzReMDQZss2z2chY
Tomick attached the following image(s):
porsche_02_altaya.jpg
magpie1832
#2 Posted : 19 December 2017 22:03:14

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 11/11/2009
Posts: 3,432
Points: 10,280
Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
Stage 1

Contains: Boot lid, Boot hinge left, Boot hinge right, Boot reinforcement, Boot pads, Badge, Boot light case, Boot lock plate, Boot lock, Pin, Spring, C-rings, Washer, Boot light and Assorted Screws.

Remove the two pads from the sprue. Insert a pad into each of the two indicated holes in the boot reinforcement. Push them into the holes as far as they will go. Then insert the boot lock into the boot lock plate and secure with a BP screw.

Pass the pin through the washer and the spring, then up through the lock plate. Make sure you have the washer the right way around. Remove the C-rings from their sprue in the same way as the two pads. Push the pin through the plate and place the C-ring around the pin, as shown in the instructions.

Secure the boot lock plate to the inside of the boot reinforcement with two AP screws. Then insert the boot light case into the indicated hole in the boot reinforcement. Place the boot light into the hole in the boot lid, as shown in the inset.

Place the boot lid reinforcement onto the boot lid, and secure with five AM screws. Then take the left hinge, identifiable by the L, and place it into the corresponding position on the boot lid. Secure the hinge with two BM screws.

Now fit the right hinge to the other side of the boot lid with two BM screws, as shown in the instructions.

Use tweezers to remove the badge sticker from the backing sheet and place it onto the boot lid.

Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s):
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On the bench

1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.




magpie1832
#3 Posted : 19 December 2017 22:26:41

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 11/11/2009
Posts: 3,432
Points: 10,280
Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
Stage 2

Contains: Front Tyre (185/70 R15), Rim, Wheel, Hub cover, Washer, Right front hub, Shock absorber tube, Shock absorber body, E-ring, Spring, Brake disc, Brake Caliper A & B, Brake connector, Right front brake hose and Assorted screws.

Note that the Front tyres are narrower than the Rear.

Insert the wheel into the tyre, then place the rim into the wheel. Align the holes of the wheel and the rim, and fix them together with three BM screws.

Secure the front brake caliper ‘A’ to the right front hub with two AM screws. Then combine the right front brake hose with the brake connector. Place the connector into the hole in the middle of the caliper.

Place the brake disc onto the hub. Then place the brake caliper B over it, aligning the holes with those in brake caliper A, and secure them together with two AP screws.

Now take the shock absorber body and place the spring and shock absorber tube over it. Press the tube down to compress the spring, and lock the E-ring into the top of the shock absorber body. Secure the shock absorber to the wheel hub with a BM screw.

Insert the hub into the wheel, then place the washer into the hole in the rim and tighten a CM screw into it.

Place the hub cover into the hole in the centre of the rim.

Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s):
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On the bench

1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.




magpie1832
#4 Posted : 19 December 2017 22:33:16

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 11/11/2009
Posts: 3,432
Points: 10,280
Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
Stage 3

Contains: Steering links, Steering rack, Steering rack housing 1 & 2, Left front hub, Shock absorber tube, Shock absorber body, E-ring, Spring, Brake caliper A & B, Brake connector, Left front brake hose, Brake disc, Left front suspension arm, Shock absorber mounts, Front crossmember, Left and right front crossmember support, Right front suspension arm and Assorted screws.

Place the steering links onto either end of the steering rack, and secure them with two DM screws. Then fit the steering rack between the two steering rack housing parts, now secure them together with two AP screws.

Fit the two front crossmember supports at the ends of the front crossmember, using four BM screws. Now combine the front crossmember and the steering rack assemblies, and secure them with two AP screws.

Combine the left front brake hose with the connector. Then place the connector into the hole in the middle of caliper A. Secure the brake caliper to the left front hub with two AM screws. Place the brake disc onto the hub, then place brake caliper B over it. Align the holes with those in brake caliper A, and secure them together with two AP screws.

Place the spring and shock absorber tube over the shock absorber body. Press the tube down to compress the spring, and lock the E-ring into the top of the shock absorber body. Secure the shock absorber to the wheel hub with a BM screw.

Fit the first shock absorber mount to the bottom of the shock absorber body with a DM screw. Then fit the second shock absorber mount to the right front wheel assembly from the previous stage with a DM screw, as shown in the instructions.

Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.
magpie1832 attached the following image(s):
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On the bench

1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.




magpie1832
#5 Posted : 19 December 2017 22:38:58

Rank: Super-Elite

Publisher Medal: Featured Build of the MonthActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contributionBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourRed Medal: Red Medal
Groups: Registered

Joined: 11/11/2009
Posts: 3,432
Points: 10,280
Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
Stage 4

Contains: Chassis front, Left front suspension arm bracket, Right front suspension arm bracket, Front anti-roll bar rods 1, Front anti-roll bar rods 2, Front anti-roll bar and Assorted screws.

Combine the two sets of anti-roll bar rods, fixing them together with DM screws. The anti-roll bar rods 1 should be positioned on the outside. Then place the anti-roll bar rods onto the ends of the front anti-roll bar, and fix them there with two CP screws. Now secure the front anti-roll bar assembly to the area of the chassis front with two AM screws.

Retrieve the front crossmember assembly from the previous stage. Place the two posts on the underside into the corresponding holes in the chassis front, then secure with CM screws. Insert the ends of the right front suspension arm, marked R, and the left front suspension arm, marked L, into the holes in the front of the crossmember and the grooves in the chassis front.

Place the two front suspension arm brackets over the fronts of the suspension arms. The right front suspension arm bracket, marked R, fits over the right front suspension arm. The left front suspension arm bracket, marked L, fits over the left arm. Secure each bracket with three BM screws. Now fix the anti-roll bar rods to the two front suspension arms with two DM screws.

Pack 1 is now complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag.

You can view the official video build for this pack here..


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBKTj2vXeDg
magpie1832 attached the following image(s):
Photo 19-11-2017, 23 43 16.jpg
Photo 19-11-2017, 23 45 15.jpg
Photo 19-11-2017, 23 48 08.jpg
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Photo 21-11-2017, 00 28 19.jpg
Photo 21-11-2017, 00 28 38.jpg
On the bench

1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.




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