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Sealing the model Options
wallace
#1 Posted : 29 May 2011 13:17:04

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I will be sanding my hull soon as I've nearly finished the planking, thank god. I was wondering if it is recommendable to seal the wood before sanding and again after?
Any help gratefully recieved.
MWG
#2 Posted : 29 May 2011 13:24:23

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Hi Wallace,

I sanded my hull first, using SHELLAC which was recommended by Mr T.

then I used fine sandpaper to take away the final slight coarseness.

Cheers

MWG
MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.

Son of Bulwark
#3 Posted : 29 May 2011 15:20:15

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Hi Wallace! Cool

I wouldn't seal the hull just yet! as there is still things to add on the hull. Give the hull a good sanding to get it smooth, then wait until all work on the hull is finished before using a sealer if you seal it before all the other parts are fitted, the glue will not stick as well and parts could simply fall off over time. Remember that the glue needs to soak into the wood fibres to get a good bond.
wallace
#4 Posted : 29 May 2011 15:38:57

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Thanks for that guy's. The reason I asked was because I thought I had read somewhere that sealing it first would help to protect the wood whilst sanding and help bring out the grain, although that does not matter with my model as the planking leaves alot to be desired and I have decided to copper plate it to hide the mistakes.
Son of Bulwark
#5 Posted : 29 May 2011 16:38:08

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Hi Wallace! Cool

If you are copper plating then don't seal the lower hull at all.
MWG
#6 Posted : 29 May 2011 17:30:32

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Hi Wallace,

Sealing the hull, does protect it from greasey fingers etc, and other bits you need to fit to the hull, will stick to it,you can use aliphatic glue. you do your build your way, I have found seeking advice from a cross section of modellers on this forum has helped me, such as Karl, Magpie,etc you can PM all these guys.

I am sure if you PM Mr T he will give you a more informed view than me?

Cheers

MWG
MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.

wallace
#7 Posted : 29 May 2011 18:30:39

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Thanks again guy's. couldn't have got as afr as I have without the help offered. Glad you told me abot no sealing if copper plating SOB. what glue is best to use for the plating, i've been told contact adhesive but I think that would be a bit messy.
Son of Bulwark
#8 Posted : 29 May 2011 19:27:16

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Hi Wallace! Cool

Contact adhesive isn't messy if you buy it in a tube instead of the tin, as you can apply it straight from the tube by pressing the tube end onto the wood or copper plate. I used Timebond Adjustable Contact Adhesive for the double planking it didn't make a mess and as it gives you a little time to adjust the fit as long as you don't press the parts together. You can be applied it to both parts wait until it dries then glue the parts together or glue one surface then straight away before it goes tacky the copper plate can be fitted. This means that you can slide it into place while the glue is wet as long as one side is pores and the hull is, then the glue will dry. Any extra glue that squeezes out between the plates can be rubbed off with your finger.

Some people think that you must way till the glue dries to the touch before gluing the two parts together and that it grabs instantly and can't be moved (you get only one chance) that's just not true! modern contact adhesive has been improved a lot.

There are other glues that can do the same job all have their good points and bad ones. Wait and see what DeAGOSTINI are selling first before choosing what glue to use.
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