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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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[size=6] The Royal Warship Vasa (or Wasa) is a Swedish warship built between 1626 and 1628.
The ship foundered after sailing about 1,300m (1,400yds) into its maiden voyage on 10 August 1628. It fell into obscurity after most of her valuable bronze cannon were salvaged in the 17th century until she was located again in the late 1950s in a busy shipping lane just outside the Stockholm harbor. Salvaged with a largely intact hull in 1961, it was housed in a temporary museum called Wasavarvet (The Wasa Shipyard) until 1988 and then moved permanently to the Vasa Museum in Stockholm. The ship is one of Sweden's most popular tourist attractions and has been seen by over 35 million visitors since 1961. Since her recovery, Vasa has become a widely recognised symbol of the Swedish 'great power period' and is today a de facto standard in the media and among Swedes for evaluating the historical importance of shipwrecks. The ship was built on the orders of the King of Sweden Gustavus Adolphus as part of the military expansion he initiated in a war with Poland-Lithuania (1621–1629). It was constructed at the navy yard in Stockholm under a contract with private entrepreneurs in 1626–1627 and armed primarily with bronze cannon cast in Stockholm specifically for the ship. Richly decorated as a symbol of the king's ambitions for Sweden and himself, upon completion she was one of the most powerfully armed vessels in the world. However, Vasa was dangerously unstable and top-heavy with too much weight in the upper structure of the hull. Despite this lack of stability she was ordered to sea and foundered only a few minutes after encountering a wind stronger than a breeze. The order to sail was the result of a combination of factors. The king, who was leading the army in Poland at the time of her maiden voyage, was impatient to see her take up her station as flagship of the reserve squadron at Älvsnabben in the Stockholm Archipelago. At the same time the king's subordinates lacked the political courage to openly discuss the ship's problems or to have the maiden voyage postponed. An inquiry was organised by the Swedish Privy Council to find those responsible for the disaster, but in the end no-one was punished for the fiasco. During the 1961 recovery, thousands of artifacts and the remains of at least 15 people were found in and around the Vasa's hull by marine archaeologists. Among the many items found were clothing, weapons, cannons, tools, coins, cutlery, food, drink and six of the ten sails. The artifacts and the ship herself have provided scholars with invaluable insights into details of naval warfare, shipbuilding techniques and everyday life in early 17th-century Sweden. Vasa Museum videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Su69apBS81I The Vasa model ship kit The DeAgostini ModelSpace Vasa model has been designed by Artesania Latina under guidance of the Vasa Museum and 'Frederick Hocker', who since 2004 as Director of Vasa Research, has been responsible for the comprehensive publication of the find and have provided the most current information of the ship and assisted in the kit design. Vasa promotional video: https://www.youtube.com/...edded&v=20ItThUDVjM
1:65 scale Length: 1090mm Height: 860mm Features laser-cut plywood framework, double plank-on-frame construction, stitched sail set, die-cast metal ornamentation, wooden masts & spars, assorted rigging threads, authentic diecast metal canon, wooden gun carriages and a compliment of die-cast metal crew/officer figurines. Vasa is a must-have model for any period ship modeller. The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible. Vasa build highlights: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=de8vVwsvqh0 The Vasa kit is available here: https://www.deagostini.c...k/scale-models/vasa-shipTomick attached the following image(s):
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Vasa Pack 1 – Stages 1 - 5
Painting Your Vasa
The paint colours required are identified within the instructions through the use of the international colour classification system RAL Code. The Official Build will follow the RAL Coding as closely as possible and will list all of the paints, this list will be updated as the build progresses. You are of course free to choose your own paint colours/type for your own Vasa build. The Vasa paint list can be found here:
https://forum.model-spac...spx?g=posts&t=26169
Build Jig
It is strongly recommended that the setting of the false keel and rib frames are kept in true alignment during the initial build phases. This can be done by the use of a “Build Jig” or “Dry Dock”. Details of such can be found here:
https://forum.model-spac...spx?g=posts&t=20425
Glue
The type of wood glue being used is “Aliphatic Resin”. This is preferable to normal PVA wood glue as it is fast grab, takes stain, has superior strength, is waterproof when dry, is easier sanding and water clean-up.
The glue type to use on metal components is Superglue gel and/or a 5min set Epoxy glue.
Offcuts
It is advisable to retain any offcuts from the wooden strips, they may prove to be useful later in the build.
Tools
Information of ship modeller tools required can be found here:
https://forum.model-spac...spx?g=posts&t=25351
The instructions do not advocate the use of planking pins and none are provided. After the second planking is fitted, pins will be inserted into the hull to copy the hull bolts as seen on the real ship. You can of course use planking pins to secure the first planking if you wish but it is recommended you pre-drill the planks first to avoid splitting the wood and remove the pins when the glue has dried. Other methods of securing planks are available, such as the use of planking clamps. Details of which can be found here:
https://forum.model-spac...spx?g=posts&t=25807
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Stage 1 Contents: False Keel (Front), Hull Frames, Supports, Transom Decorations and Swedish Coat of Arms.
Sand the edges of the wooden parts to remove any imperfections. Test fit hull frame 2 into the first slot in the false keel. Adjust the fit by sanding if necessary and glue into place. Use a set square to ensure that the frame dries at 90 degrees to the false keel.
The Micro Drawing Set can be purchased here:
https://forum.model-spac...spx?g=posts&t=22530
Test fit one of the supports into the front of hull frame 2, engaging the tabs into the corresponding slots. Adjust the fit if necessary and then glue into place. Test fit and glue the second support into place on the other side of the false keel. Ensure the two supports dry at 90 degrees to the hull frame.
Now test fit and glue hull frame 3 into the slot in the false keel, immediately behind hull frame 2. Make sure the hull frame dries at 90 degrees to the false keel, also make sure that the front of the frame is flush with the top of the keel.
Remove any casting flash or burrs from the castings with needle files. Apply a coat of primer to the metal parts and let them dry fully. Follow the painting guide provided within the instructions to paint the decorations supplied with this stage then store carefully until needed.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag
Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 2 Contents: Hull Frame Bottoms, Hull Frame Sides, Support, Brown Thread, Cannon Carriage Parts Fret, Carriage Wheels, Wheel Pin, Cannon and Handles.
Sand the edges of the wooden parts to remove any imperfections. Test fit hull frame 4 sides with the hull frame bottom, adjust the fit if necessary and then glue together. Ensure the joins are flush and the frame dries perfectly flat. As with frame 4 test fit and glue the three parts of hull frame 5 together.
Test-fit and glue the support into hull frame 2, inserting the tabs into the corresponding holes. Make sure the support dries at 90 degrees to hull frame 2.
Test fit and glue hull frame 4 into the next available slot in the false keel, ensuring the hull frame dries at 90 degrees to the false keel. Fit hull frame 5 in the same way.
Remove any casting flash or burrs from the metal parts supplied with this stage. Take one of the handles and glue it into the two holes at the back of the cannon. Now glue the other two handles into holes in the upper part of the cannon. Apply a coat of metal primer to the cannon and leave it to dry, then paint the cannon with bronze coloured paint, (there is no RAL code for this).
Separate the four cannon carriage components from the wooden fret and smooth their edges.
Note: it was originally thought that the gun carriages and wheels had been painted red. However, information has since come to light from an account book entry which indicates black paint (lampblack) specifically for gun carriages. Therefore the Vasa official build will reflect black gun carriages (RAL 9004).
Glue the carriage right side to the cannon base, then glue the crosspiece to the base and the cannon right side, position it 2mm from the front edge of the base. Glue the carriage left side to the other side of the base.
Separate the wheels from the fret then smooth the edges, paint the wheels black (RAL 9004) leaving the wheel edges bare wood to indicate wear. Store the cannon parts until they are needed again.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag
Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 3 Contents: Reinforcements, Hull Frame Bottom, Hull Frame Sides, False Keel, Anchor Stock, Anchor and Anchor Ring.
Smooth the edges of the hull frame and keel parts received with this stage. Test fit and glue hull frame 7 sides to the bottom and leave to dry before proceeding, ensure the frame dries flat. Glue hull frame 7 into the first slot of the new part of the false keel, check the pieces dry at 90 degrees.
Recover the front section of the hull assembly. Glue the two parts of the false keel together, making sure that these parts are aligned perfectly while drying. Apply glue to one side of each of the reinforcements and then glue them to the join in the false keel, between frames 6 and 7.
Remove any flash or burrs from the anchor. Apply a coat of metal primer to the anchor, when dry paint it a metallic grey colour (RAL 5011).
Separate the two halves of the anchor stock and smooth the anchor stock halves. Glue the two halves together then sand them to smooth the join. Smooth the underside of the stock so that the ends taper by 1mm, then paint the anchor stock with a dark brown paint (RAL 3007). Alternatively, you can apply dark wood stain.
Glue the stock onto the top of the anchor with the tapered edge facing down. The stock must be at 90 degrees to the shank, when viewed from above it should create an͛ 'X' shape.
Give the anchor ring a coat of metal primer and leave to dry, then paint the metallic black. Move the ends of the ring away from each other to open it and pass the ring through the hole in the top of the anchor shank, then close the ring.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag
Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 4 Contents: Hull Reinforcements, Frame Reinforcements and Transom Decorations.
Separate the parts from the fret and smooth the edges to remove any imperfections. Test fit one of the reinforcements marked D1 onto the starboard side of the hull, engaging it with frames 4, 5 and 7. Adjust the fit if necessary then glue it to the frames and the keel. Test fit and glue the second reinforcement in place on the other side of the hull.
Test fit hull reinforcement marked D2 between frames 2 and 4 and resting on frame 3. Glue into place. Test fit and glue one of the frame reinforcements marked P1 between the starboard sides of frames 4, 5 and 7. Glue the front to reinforcement D2, then test fit and glue the second reinforcement marked P1 into position on the port side of the hull.
Remove any flash, burrs or small imperfections from the transom decorations supplied with this stage. Apply a coat of metal primer then leave to dry fully. Follow the painting guide provided within the instructions to paint the decorations supplied with this stage then store carefully until needed.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag
Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Stage 5 Contents: Hull Frame Bottoms, Hull Frame Sides, Bow Reinforcements and Transom Decorations.
Separate the wooden parts from the fret and smooth the edges to remove any imperfections.
Glue one of the bow reinforcements into the slots in the bow support piece and up against frame 2. Fit the second reinforcement into the slots in the bow support piece and up against frame 2 on the other side of the false keel.
Test fit and glue the hull frame 8 sides to the hull frame 8 bottom ensuring it dries flat. Glue frame 8 into the next available slot in the false keel, ensure it dries at 90 degrees to the false keel. Test fit and glue together the pieces that make up hull frame 9, ensuring it dries flat. Glue frame 9 into the next slot in the false keel, ensure it dries at 90 degrees to the false keel.
Remove any flash, burrs or small imperfections from the two decorations supplied with this stage. Apply a coat of metal primer then leave to dry fully. Follow the painting guide provided within the instructions to paint the decorations supplied with this stage then store carefully until needed.
Stage complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a stage labelled bag
You can view the official video build for this pack here..https://www.youtube.com/...pihCUITNN6t6G8Ul5yETfAu
Gandale attached the following image(s):
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